ClayL

All that I have ever seen operate from the engine battery. It is a saftey feature. On Winnebagos the propane alarm operates from the house batteries/converter. My enigne battery will run down in abour three weeks if the engine is not run even if connected to shore power.. Many Fleetwood products (all?) have a device that senses the engine battery voltage and connects the house batteries/converter to the engine battery to charge the engine battery when you are connected to shore power. If you have such a device it may not be working. Sounds like the dealer is not very knowlegable.

Lichtsinn Motors http://www.lichtsinn.com/ a dealer about a mile or so from the factory has a good reputation.

If possible get one that is designed for cabinet installation. In convection mode those suckers put out hot exhaust air. I installed one in my first motor home and after about 45 minutes the temp behind it got up to 200 degrees. It took a lot of work to add an exhaust and a vent though the wall to get the temp down to a reasonable level. If intended for cabinet installation it willl vent out of the front - at least the ones I have seen do. There are also build in kits available for many/some countertop convection microwaves. If possible get one that is designed for cabinet installation. In convection mode those suckers put out hot exhaust air. I installed one in my first motorhome and after about 45 minutes the temp behind it got up to 200 degrees. It took a lot of work to add an exhaust fan and a vent though the wall to get the temp down to a reasonable level. If intended for cabinet installation it will vent out of the front - at least the ones I have seen do. There are also build in kits available for many/some countertop convection microwaves.

If you have a Workhorse or Ford chassis I would get DuallyValve solid metal extensions. They come with rubber grommets that fit in the handhold to provide support for the extension. This is really valuable if you have tire pressure sensors.

Probably the simplest thing to do is buy a 24 v to 12 v converter. See here http://www.secamerica.com/products/converters/index.php

I have seen one unfurled at a rest stop in WY. If the wind coming from the side is strong enough it can stll get under it and overcome the ratchet mecanism. I have the metal wrap and use an awning lock.

Verizon has the best coverage in the states. They sell prepaid USB modems with a preset amount of data and more data can be added. I don't see why a Canadian can't buy one but you should be able to call them and find out.

If you are an FMCA member you can download the Dingy Towing Guide with the info you want at http://www.fmcmagazine.com/motor-home-towing-guides If not you can download Motor Home magazine's guide on their site.

Also a leaky winterizing diverter valve (used on one valve winterizing water heater systems) can cause the same symptoms. A leaky tempering valve also can do it. if none of the things suggested by the other posters helps I would carefully get some hot water directly from the heater relief valve and check the temperature, It should be about 140 degrees unless you have a tempering valve then it should be about 160 degrees. It the temp is right you have a cross feed between the hot and cold water somewhere.

The manual says the first thing to do is unplug and replug the connector on the control board several times. If its an Atwood you can download a trouble shooting manual HERE

You might want to take a look at http://www.alternativeresources.net/ . They have a lot of info that may help you even if you don't use them as a mail forwarding service.

Verizon offers prepaid data plans. You buy the USB modem (aircard) and pay for so many Gigabytes of data. If you don't use it in a set time it goes away and you have to buy more.

I have used a BatteryMinder on my coach for ten years. The engine battery will be discharged in about three weeks if the engine isn't run.

I had the same thing happen several years ago. In my case the pin was still in but had worked out part way and the lock part was gone. I went back to the hitch pin type pins and check them when I get ready to leave after stopping to make make sure no one has messed with them.

The SK3005 will not work with the H25 or H35 series Direct TV receivers. At least not usless you buy an extra piece of equipment from Winegard. The SK3005 is not SWM compatible and the H25 and H35 receivers will only work with SWN dishes. Winegard sells a device - an SWM8 - that will allow the SK3005 dish to be used but it requires some additional wiring.

As a rule they have a life of about five years. There is sometimes a "Replace By" date stamped on the case and all that I have seen are five years from the date of manufacture.. They often start sounding false alarms as they reach or go over the date. They will react to a lot of things besides propane such as hair spray and cleaners. Dogs laying next to them and breaking wind are also said to activate them.

We stayed there several years ago and enjoyed it. Our cat Nicki had a great time running from window to window watching the quail, rabbits and other animals that came right up the coach. At that time they were a Passport America park and the price was about $15 per night with no limit on how long you could stay at that rate. The dirt road was washboarded but we just took it slow.

Securing the arms does not solve the problem. Side winds get under the awning and put enough pressure on the ratchet mechanism to extend the awning with the arms still securely locked in place. There are a number of awning locks on the market. This is what I use. It is cheap and requires no holes to be drilled. You can get the parts at any hardware store. You can see the instructions HERE. I have used one for several years. It would take one heck of a side wind to overcome it.

The problem is that fluid holding crud builds up on the tank walls and that fools the sensors into thinking there is fluid in the tank. If it's made by Ventline as many are, there is a 68k ohm resistor between the full and 2/3 sensor and one from the 2/3 sensor to the 1/3 sensor. The wire from the panel connects to the full sensor. On some units the resistors are potted in a small plastic cup close by the tank with one wire leading from it back to the panel. There is another wire from the ground sensor also going back to the panel. There are also wires from the cup to the sensors. On others all four wires go into the wiring harness and I don't know where the resistors are located. Maybe on the display panel? The display panel has five "LM339 Low Power Low Offset Voltage Quad Comparator" ICs (one for each waste tank, one for the propane tank, the water tank and one for the battery voltage) that are used to sense the voltage drops across the sensors and activate the proper LED. The non-contact sensors are better but not foolproof either. According to their web site the SeeLevel system can also be fooled but at least it just stops giving a reading rather than showing a false one. That is your signal to clean the tank walls. I have the TrueLevel non-contact system that Winnebago went standard with in 2005 (right after I bought mine of course so I had to add it) and right now my black tank reads full all the time but the top two LEDS of my gray level are accurate. I have pressure washed the black tank wall twice and it worked okay for a while then started reading full all the time. In my years of trying all of the things people recommend I have not found anything that keeps the tank walls clean enough. Some people have reported that the HORST MIRACLE PROBES work well. They shield and move the sensors out from the tank walls so the gunk doesn't fool them.

The white nylon gadget is the drain plug. The square part of a 1/4 ratchet (1/4 inch as I recall) or a ratchet extension is used to turn it. It either turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn. You can tell when you hit the stop. I think it is 1/2 turn. There are two recessed head 8 mm drain plugs on the sides of the engine block that need to be removed. The plugs are between and a little below the next to last and last sparkplug towards the back. One on each side. Altogether I got about 5 1/2 gallons of coolant out. On mine the radiator cap was a bear to get back on. I ended up taking the air horn (two screws) off so I could get leverage enough to replace it.

If you go HERE you can download a pdf file that a lot of info on RVs and gfi trips.

Same here except I have two front jacks.

I haven't tried this yet but intend to. A poster a while back said that putting strips of silicon adhesive on the back and letting it dry would stop area rugs and runners from moving.

I have Direct TV and had it installed in the coach after I was full timing. I was visiting a friend in TX and used his address as I recall. Later I switched to my mail forwarding address in SD. I have the Winegard Traveler SK3005 for Direct TV on the roof. There really isn't any reason to have Direct connect it. You just run a coax from the Winegard control box to the TV.

You might want to take a look HERE this is a Jan 2011 thread with info on how to drill the lock to open a Trimark lock.