ClayL

We have the FloPure Mark 8000. Cost is $240 and includes shipping. Regeneration is done with a box of common table salt. It is similar to others like the "On-The-Go" water softener which is the one Camping World sells I believe. Both are 8000 grain units which means they will last longer without requiring regeneration. Some folks use "Water Sticks" but the biggest one of those I have seen is only 1500 grains. In AZ where we spend most of the winter the water hardness is about 50 grains per gallon. That means that an 8000 grain unit will soften about 160 gallons before needing to be regenerated. Since we use about 13 gallons of water per day we have to regenerate every 12 days or so. In another place we stay with a water hardness of 20 GPG, the softener will last about a month. To regenerate it I pour about three cups of water out of the outlet, take the cap off, remove the strainer, pour in the box of table salt, replace the strainer and cap, let it sit for a couple of hours then flush it for five minutes.

On mine DW had the return air intake to the dash AC blocked with some books. That caused the carpet and the books to get wet. The return air intake on mine is in the nook in front of the passengers feet.

We are in Grand Junction CO at about 5000 feet and it's forecast to reach 108 today. At least it will cool down to 70 tonight.

A great thing about crossing Kansas on I70 is stopping in Russell and getting that humongous rib eye steak at Meridy's Steak House. It's right off I70. There is a Passport America RV park almost next door. Grand Junction is a good place to stop after you cross the Rockies. RV Ranch is a decent place to spend the night. We will be here in site 21 for most of the summer. Come say howdy if you stay here.

Just for reference - often but not always, the bulb number is stamped or stickered on the inside of the light fixture.

The genny looks to see if it is producing voltage and if not will shut down. Since it is running I suspect one of the two suggestions above - the automatic transfer switch or an open breaker is the answer

In many places there are people that come to your site and wash your RV. Some RV parks allow you to do it yourself. The one we are in right now allows you to do it but charges you $10 for the extra water.

You can also get a wind buffet vibration if the mirrors are adjusted too far out of the housing. If that is the issue you will need to adjust the housing so that the mirrors can be adjusted so the edge is inside the housing.

It could be the inverter/charger but I would check all of the house battery connections before I did anything else. It could also be bad contacts in the battery disconnect solenoid or connections to it.

I agree. The waste tanks are a sealed system except for the roof vent and if you have odors that are not being drawn into the RV from the roof then you have a problem that needs to be fixed.

Alfa had a serious problem with pits appearing in the fiberglass. You might want to check the Alfa forum for years when it occured and solutions.

The bleeder brake is new to me. I saw it for the first time when I was on the site. Doesn't sound like something we will see on the average DP does it?

FWIW Jake brakes come in three flavors nowadays. 1) compression release brake 2) bleeder brake 3) exhaust brake For explanations on how they work go to their SITE and look under "Technology" at the top. The following came from the owners manual on the last motor home I had. It had a P30/32 chassis. It might be helpful to the OP who said he had a P30 chassis as I recall. When Using Transmission to Brake. Maximum Speed in First Gear is 30 MPH. Maximum Speed in Second Gear is 40 MPH.

For what it is worth I have found a stationary venturi vent cover. HERE

Yes it is normal. In fact my chassis battery will discharge in about 3 weeks due to parasitic 'keep alive" drains for the engine and transmission computers. I would keep it plugged in and use a BatteryMinder Plus to keep the house and chassis batteries charged. The BatteryMinder can keep up to 4 batteries chaged and since it is a float charger it will not hurt the batteries if left connected for long perions of time. Although the converter will keep the house batteries charged when you are plugged into shore power you will have to check the water often because the converter used by Winnebago is not smart and can boil the batteries dry. My manual says to use the battery disconnect switch if the motor home is plugged into shore power for extended periods of time.

While acting as a gate keeper your lifestyle is going to be pretty limited if you don't have electricity. Are you going to have to run your generator all/most of the time? If so how will you refuel your motor home? The generator will probably use about 1/2 gallon per hour at half load. You can use an inverter to change the 12 vdc from your battery to 120vac so you would not have to run the generator all the time. There are some items like AC and electric heaters that won't be practical to use even if you have the requisite inverter and battery bank. Do you have a way to dump your waste tanks and take on water where you will be staying?

Since I full time my slides are extended and my levelers are down 12 months a year when we are stopped. I would drop the levelers, they provide stabilty. No problems is 8 years with slides or levelers.

One thing that I don't like about Dish is that the guide time is your service address time. My buddy talked to them about that and was told that he would have to call and have them change the time. That's not real convenient for folks traveling all over the US. With Direct I can change the time in the receiver menu.

West Marine has noise and heat insulating material made for engine compartments. The site is HERE I believe JC Whitney has some that is cheaper.

Most people make sure they have plenty of liquid in the gray water tank - dump the black, close the valve and then dump the gray so the liquid washes the hose out. I close my gray about three days before I plan to dump the black and it is almost full at that point. The odor may be coming in from the roof vent. A vent pipe device that pulls air of the tank when any breeze is present might help. Take a look HERE You can use any toilet paper you want whether it says septic safe or not. If it doesn't dissolve it will flow out with the waste anyway. Most brands dissolve fairly quickly in any case. If you want you can choose one of the ones below that dissolve fast. Brand...........................................Dissolving Time in Seconds (lowest is best) Charmin Plus 1-Ply..................................9 MD 2-Ply...................................................9 Coronet 2-Ply..........................................12 Angel Soft 2-Ply......................................12 Scott 1-Ply..............................................17 Soft 'N Gentle 1-Ply ...............................18 Soft Weve 1-Ply.....................................20 Marcal 1-Ply...........................................20 Soft 'N Gentle 2-Ply...............................21 Seventh Generation 2-Ply.....................21 Quilted Northern Super 2-Ply ...............69 Charmin Ultra 2-Ply ..............................77 Cottonelle 1-Ply ....................................96 Charmin 1-Ply .....................................180 The TPs with an Excellent disintegration rating from a Aug 2000 Consumer Report article are: Albertson's Soft Choice Ultra Safeway Select Softly Ultra Quilted Northern Ultra Soft Quilted Nothern Soft Prints Target Kroger Angel Soft Charmin Plus with Unscented Natural Aloe SoftWeve I understand there is a later consumer Reports study out but I don't have a copy.

Mine started clicking and I discovered a broken bolt that was allowing some movement. It couldn't be seen because it came in from the top of the bracket but the steps could be moved some.

We have used Walmart for 10 years of full timing and they can transfer the precriptions within their system. There are a couple of exceptions with GA being one of them. NY state has some sort of rule that only lets it be filled once and then they want a new local one. That's what I recall anyway. We have had no problems anywhere else.

You can download a trouble shooting guide HERE that might be helpful. When Kwikee had their own web site - before they were bought by Actuant and folded in with Power Gear - the guide (2005StepTrainOL.pdf) used to be availble on the site. Power Gear has some of the Kwikke documents on their site but not this one.

The Onan Generator Handbook says "Q: Can I use synthetic oil in my generator? A: People use synthetic oils because the general opinion is that they can be left in the engine longer than regular oil. However, if you decide to use synthetic oil in your generator the maintenance time intervals given in the operator manuals must still be followed." The Handbook can be downloaded here http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/html/Common/pdf/rv/F-1123%20-RV-Generator-Handbook-2010.pdf

I may be missing something but I just drew out the simple two switch circuit (2 spdt switches) for allowing either of two switches to operate a light fixture and I don't see why an LED can't be used instead of a fluorescent fixture. There is no polarity reversal and that is the only thing I can see that would cause a problem. This is the diagram: Note: I left the current limiting resistor needed to keep the LED current at the right level out of the diagram. It didn't seem to be pertinent to the issue.