ClayL

I don't think it was a paint issue but rather a pitting of the fiberglass problem. The repair costs I saw quoted back when the problem surfaced were very high.

If by "running all the time" you mean the fan is always running, then that might be due to dust, pet hair, fiber, etc. building up on the input screen and limiting the air flow, The fan is usually set to come on a set temperature of the heat sink in the converter. If it has trouble getting enough air it will run constantly. I have to vacuum mine out once a year or so.

Like Brett says - one or the other. In my case it was the check valve in the pump. I mentioned it to a Shurflo rep at a rally and he gave a rebuild kit so they must not be very expensive. Since it didn't really bother me that much, I never got around to installing it and the pump cured itself. Must have been something caught in the check valve.

Some/all of the CRV models are towable. The Civic models aren't. This is according to both the Motorhome magazine Dinghy Guide and the Remco web site.

The 20 suffix designates silver contacts. I bought that one (Bear Series) and had to send it back and go with the original part type because where mine is mounted is too small and cramped to install it.

For years there was a dealer that came to Quartzsite every year that sold only repos for some banks. We used to stop by and take a look at what he had. Conditions varied from pristene to very bad.

I have had my motor home Watts whole house regulator set to 65 psi for years. That pressure is fine according to Winnebago. They test the plumbing to 85 psi and the pex supply tubing can stand a lot more. Most home style fixtures are rated to 85 psi - don't know about RV fixtures. I know they will handle 65 psi though. At my S&B home in CO the Watts regulator is set to 65 psi. A year after we bought the house I found that the regulator in place had malfunctioned and was allowing the full 135 psi town supply pressure into the house plumbing. I have no idea how long the regulator had been bad but the plumbing and fixtures handled it okay. With my shower head set on pulsate pounding on the back of neck, I did have some great showers before we replaced the regulator though.

Those strips are not really seals but are there to squeegee water and debris from the slides as they are retracted. The bulb seals on the top, sides and bottom of the slide frame are what actually do the sealing. Whether the squeegee strips flip completely or not is pretty much a non-issue.

My house Interstate batteries that came with the motor home lasted 8 full timing years. I like to think because of the desulphating feature. A few years ago we inherited a 3000 tree commerecial peach orchard in CO and used a Battery Minder to keep the batteries on all of the stored equipment batteries charged all winter. Did a good job there as well.

I have used a Battery Minder Plus for about ten years. It is a float charger and can be left connected indefinitely. It can float up to four batteries at one time. /http://www.vdcelectronics.com/

That recall came out in 2004. I had it done then. 50402-C Defect Summary: CERTAIN CLASS A MOTOR HOMES BUILT ON WORKHORSE CHASSIS FAIL TO COMPLY WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD (FMVSS) NO. 101, "CONTROLS AND DISPLAY" AND STANDARD NO. 105 "HYDRAULIC AND ELECTRIC BRAKE SYSTEMS." MODELS WITH ACTIA INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, THE INCORRECT SOFTWARE PROGRAMMED INTO THE CLUSTER SUCH THAT CERTAIN WARNINGS ARE NOT DISPLAYED. Consequence Summary: INCORRECT SOFTWARE MAY NOT HAVE THE ABILITY TO ILLUMINATE WARNING LAMPS INDICATING BRAKE SYSTEM FAILURES. THE STANDARDS REQUIRE DRIVER WARNING WHEN BRAKE FAILURE CODES ARE SET. Corrective Summary: WORKHORSE IS CONDUCTING THE OWNER NOTIFICATION AND REMEDY FOR THIS CAMPAIGN. OWNERS MAY CONTACT WORKHORSE AT 1-877-294-6773 .

Blue Ox and Roadmaster seem to be the most popular ones out there. I don't think you will go wrong with either one. I have had my Blue Ox Aventa II for eleven full timing years. Had it serviced three or four times in Quartzsite by Blue Ox. Used to be free but costs $25 now as I recall.

What is wrong with the ones you have? By the way if your chassis is older than 9/2/2003 you have a 2 inch bar in the front. After that date Workhorse changed to a 2.5 inch bar which was a huge improvement. My 2004 motor home was built on a 2003 chassis made before that date so I installed the 2.5 inch one. Made a big improverment in: 1. Reduced Body Roll when cornering. 2. Reduced "rocking" when passed by or passing large vehicles. 3. Reduced "rocking" when traversing bumps on an angle.

Just a little clarification. The Prosine inverter does not charge the batteries. It inverts the battery voltage from 12v dc to 120 vac. This lets you run 120 vac appliances with no shore or generator power. That can be handy when you need 120 v and can't run the generator for whatever reason (like quiet time).

Winnebago tests their PEX systems at 80 psi and recommends 60 to 65 psi as the regulator setting. I have mine set at 65 psi and have spent an entire summer hosting in a state park that had supply pressure of 135 psi. The town pressure at our summer home in CO is 135 to 140 psi and most people have a whole house regulator like the one I carry in the motor home. The one on the house supply system had to be replaced a couple of weeks ago. The tech said that normal house faucets and fixtures are rated for a max of 80 psi. I have a pressure gauge with a hose fitting that I have in the motor home and I use it before I connect to the RV park supply. Most of the time I see 40 psi or less but once in a while a lot more. Got it at a Lowes as I recall.

Winnebago’s in general do not charge the house batteries with the battery disconnect switch activated. On mine I use a BatteryMinder Plus float charger than can be left on all the time without harming the batteries or causing water use. When we had a 3000 tree commercial peach orchard in CO we used one to keep the farm equipment batteries charged all winter. The BatteryMinder can keep as many as four batteries charged at the same time.

Just to reinforce what Wolfe said: The waste system is sealed except for the roof vents. If you have any odor that isn't getting into the RV from the roof vent or out of the toilet when you flush with an exhaust fan running, you have a problem that needs to be addressed. Some of the problem areas are. Dry traps, sinks, showers, washer Exhaust fan running while flushing No water in toilet bowl Bad air admittance valve under sink We (and a great many other folks) use no chemicals at all. Just a goodly amount of water when we flush and we have no odor issues.

This is some info I have collected over the years from various threads for Kwikee steps. Maybe it will be helpful. Trouble shooting chart HERE There is a trouble shooting guide HERE If you need sources for motors or parts check the following: Motor PARTS 1 PARTS 2 PARTS 3 ________________________________________________________________ " 1) AM Equipment 402 E. Hazel St Jefferson, OR 97352, (541) 327-1546 the motor is $29 plus $7 shipping. 2) Replacement step motor at AutoZone. It's a Siemens "Window Lift Motor", part number WL43003. 3) Autozone. The brand is "Siemens" The ID tag lists the following numbers: 59720-20 121899 4) A 1986-1995 Ford Taurus left front window lift motor matched my motor. NAPA part # BK655-1395 $63.99 I ordered my motor from Auto-Zone Manufactured by Dorman part# 742-206. This has a lifetime Warranty and was $49.99. " Also these guys rebuild the older unencapsulated circuit boards: HERE ********************************************** New info in 2012 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Aci-Auto-Window-Lift-Motor/1995-Ford-F150-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-j1z7uZ8ijybZ1z10l3u?itemIdentifier=972601_315519_1264_1356%2C78656 Aci Auto/Window Lift Motor For your 1995 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 5.0L EFI 8cyl Enlarge Image Part Number: 83094 **************************** On disasembly of the motor I found the plastic plugs severly lopsided due to all the years of strain, new plugs cost $8.00 at Autozone or Amazon, other than that the Autozone Ford Mark VI would have worked $ $44, but I saved myself $38 ********* Just rplaced my 25 series Kwikee step motor with a Dorman 742-277 window lift motor for a 1986 Ford Taurus driver side window lift motor. They said the Taurus had a high torqe motor which is why the number ends with 277 meaning high torqe. My steps zip in and out with this motor application. It was a special order item but only took one day for them to get it to my local AutoZone store. I also noticed AutoZone had rebuild kits for Dorman window lift gear boxes (plastic gears) in the Help section of the store.

One thing to be aware of: In the winter you will use a lot of propane to stay warm. You can add an "Extend a Stay" tee - Marshal Brass, or a "Stay A While" tee (Mr Heater) that will allow you to use an external propane tank so you don't have to move the motor home to get propane. In Grand Junction CO in Feb I used a 40 pound tank every 7 or 8 days. You will need a heat tape on the water line or fill your on-board tank and disconnect the water hose and drain it or take it inside. You will need to keep both the gray and black tanks closed and dump as needed. I think the motor home you mentioned has hot air from the furnace directed into the basement to keep the tanks from freezing. That means the furnace will need to be running when it is cold outside. You may also need to put a light bulb in the area where dump valves are located to keep them from freezing.

Maybe because it's going through a splitter. There are several ways to connect it. Winegard recommends the diagram below. Making the connections the way Winegard recommends does not require adding any coax connectors to the wallplate. Note that this assumes your front TV is connected to the coax connector on the front of the wall plate. If yours isn't, there should be a splitter in the line labeled "To second TV" that will send the signal to both the front and rear TVs (if you have two TVs). What Winegard calls a "power supply" below is the wall plate with the antenna booster switch and LED showing when the amplifier is on. If you still want to be able to use the external cable in for both cable TV and the external dish just add an A/B switch to switch the incoming coax from the sat receiver "sat input" to the sat receiver "TV input". If your receiver doesn't have a coax output (and many new ones don't) and you still want to use the batwing antenna you will need to use an A/B switch to switch the signal between the receiver and the antenna out connection on the wall plate. One thing not shown in the diagram is using the RCA type connections or the better quality "component" type output or the HDMI (best) output between the sat receiver and the TV. That will yield a much better picture with no interference from any local channels. You have to select a "video in" with your TV menu instead of using channel 3 (for example). Some newer satellite receivers don't have a coax output so you may have to use HDMI or component connections. If you have a video distribution box that will have to be taken into account.

There is a kit on the Winegard web site. As I recall it was less than $200 but I have slept since then so it could be more.

I think that the 2nd outlet is 20 amps. It is used for the rear AC in many motor homes. On many it is an automatic switch over but on mine I have to turn a large switch from "Shore Power" to "Generator". That connects the rear AC to the 20 amp generator circuit.

I use FireFox and it has a spell checker built in also - it just doesn't seem to work on this forum.

I am using FF 20.0. The " Check spelling as I type" box is checked and it works on the other 10 or so forums I visit but not this one. I wonder why? As I recall it has worked here in the past.

Many motor homes have an energy management system that has the ability shed loads. On my Winnebago the EMS is made by Intellitec. My motor home is a 30 unit and I can run both ACs at the same time. The EMS prevents the ACs from starting at the same time so the initial current draw surge isn't a problem. If a high current draw appliance like a microwave tries to start when both ACs are running, it first tries shutting the rear AC compressor off. If that isn't enough it will turn the fan off then the refrigerator. That is a very neat feature in my opinion.