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wolfe10

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Posts posted by wolfe10

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Chuck,

    A good question-- and IMO no clear-cut answer.

    When I would WANT the brake light to illuminate when the exhaust brake is activated: When coming to a stop.

    When I would NOT WANT the brake light to illuminate when the exhaust brake is activated: When descending long grades with exhaust brake on but not slowing down (i.e. exhaust brake holding my speed in equilibrium). If (and I do not) one chooses to leave the exhaust brake switch on in rolling hills-- one would NOT want the brake lights to come on on every downgrade.

    Last summer we followed a coach wired with brake lights on with exhaust brake on and they left the exhaust brake switch on. Every time they crested a small hill and started down, their exhaust brake and light came on. WOW-- I could never tell if there was a cow in the road right in front of the lead coach and we were coming to a panic stop or if we were just still cruising at 60 MPH and his throttle happened to close. Repeat 75+ times that day!

    Our coach was wired such that the brake light does NOT come on with the exhaust brake. To get around no brake light when coming to a stop-- I step a minimum of very lightly on the service brake while stopping. Actually service brake application is needed anyway most times coming to a stop.

    Your mileage may vary!

    Brett

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I am looking at a 2001 Monaco Knight. I think it has a Roadmaster RR4R chassis. I've been reading on the forum that the RR4R is not nearly as smooth riding as the RR8R chassis. (The standard chassis on the newer Monaco Knight coaches is the RR8R.)

    Can I add more air bags to improve the ride?

    In a word, NO additional air bags can not be added (within the reasonable range of cost/value).

    But both Source Engineering and the new Monaco Corp DO offer a "Ride Enhancement Kit".

    Here is a link to Source Engineering's Ride Enhancement Kit (I have requested information on Monaco's kit and replacement trailing arm, but have not received anything): http://www.rv-chassis.com/rek.html

    Brett

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Periodically we recently have been plagued by an internal fault appearing on the control panel -- red LED -- and cuts out the 110 power in the front of the coach.

    Any one have the same experience?

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Is this just in one CG or has it happened in multiple locations? Said another way, have you been able to rule out shore power as the cause?

    Do you have a Surge Protector? If so, it that what is cutting out? What brand and model?

    Does this occur when you are running the generator?

    Brett

  7. Posted · Report reply

    It could also be in the speedometer. I know the VDO gauges have a calibration function. That may be the easiest/least expensive. So, start by calling your speedometer manufacturer.

    It is also possible that your chassis maker has a module that can provide this function. So if the speedometer does not have the calibration function, call your chassis maker.

    I confirmed with Allison that the calibration feature is NOT in the Allison ECU.

    I also confirmed with Caterpillar (you don't state what engine you have) that the speedometer calibration CAN be done in the engine ECM on electronic engines.

    Brett

  8. Posted · Report reply

    My Holiday Rambler Admiral is stored in my driveway and sits during part of the winter. I have caught 20 or more mice this past winter. Previous coach was a Bounder with no problems. Obviously, the mice are entering and traveling throughout the coach by the tunnel carrying wiring and plumbing. I cannot get to all entry points to plug. What is the best way to prevent this problem?

    The best thing to plug the openings around wire and plumbing chases is bronze or stainless steel wool (like steel wool, but won't rust). Course is great.

    Just push it into the small voids and that should help a lot.

    And, other than trapping them, I have not found a successful technique to deal with mice. Some have reported good results with the electronic "mouse repellents", but many report the mice aren't bothered by them at all.

    Brett

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Don,

    Couple of places you can check for brand of jack. Even if higher voltage (not shutting off the engine until after jacks deployed) the information may be of benefit in the future:

    1. Jack control panel.

    2. Jack motor/reservoir

    3. Literature that came with your coach

    4. Call your coach maker with your VIN

    Brett

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Question: "We are hooked up to our tow dolly and car while leveling. Would this affect the leveling process?"

    Should have no effect on leveling.

    What brand jack and model if you know it?

    Check fluid level in the jack reservoir (with jacks stowed of course).

    It will certainly not hurt anything and may reset the computer if this is a computer issue to unplug the jack computer box (with system turned off of course) for a few minutes and then plug it back in.

    Also, remember that the jack motor is a high-amp electric draw. Particularly if it is a long way from the battery (long wire run of perhaps not overly large gauge wire, you could be experiencing a voltage drop. Deploying the jacks with the engine running insures 14+ VDC at the batteries and will help insure adequate voltage at the jack motor. Many of us deploy the jacks when we pull in and before we turn off the engine.

    Brett

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Don,

    What jack manufacturer and model do you have?

    Tell us what did and did not work normally in the leveling process as suggested for your coach:

    1. Did air dump as it should (If that is the first step per your coach maker)?

    2. If kick down jacks, did they kick down normally?

    3. Did the jack motor sound normal as it started to deploy the jacks (at normal speed?)?

    4. Was the process interrupted, either by you or did the jack panel turn off?

    5. Was the engine running and therefore supplying electrical power to the batteries/jacks. If not, was battery voltage at or above 12.5 VDC?

    Anything else you can think of that could help us identify the problem.

    Brett

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Shawn,

    And how much coolant are you loosing per time period/mile?

    So, in your system, when you are driving, engine coolant circulates throughout the whole hydronic system (including to all the in-coach heat exchangers, not just to the hydronic heater unit where a separate pump pumps a different coolant to the in-coach exchangers)?

    Brett

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Shawn,

    Let's clarify-- you are loosing Hydronic heater coolant, not engine coolant, Correct?

    How many ounces over what period of time are you having to add?

    Is there a pressure cap on the hydronic heater reservoir. If so, have the system pressure tested (pumped up to more than standard PSI and look for leak(s).

    And are you smelling the coolant inside the coach, in a basement-- where?

    Is there a difference in smell of engine coolant vs hydronic heater coolant? Does that help locate the leak?

    Brett

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Lee,

    A common solution to abrasion is to find the correct hose AND a hose whose ID (inside diameter) will just allow the OD (outside diameter) of the "correct" hose to slip inside it.

    This outer hose will gusset/protect the hose inside it. Also use nylon zip ties to secure this outer hose to all STATIONARY objects but NOT the closest stationary object to the engine, or the engine connection, as the engine moves relative to the chassis/stationary objects.

    And if you don't have the room to run the outer hose all the way, cut lengths that you zip tie in place where the original hose abrades.

    For hoses already in place, slice lengths of the outer hose and slit them long-wise. Slip over the hose to be protected and zip tie the ends to keep the gusset from moving on the inside hose and then zip tie the short piece of outer hose to "close the cut" you made to allow you to slip it over the hose.

    Do not hesitate to consider a better routing for the hose. Ideally, it will run uphill from radiator (or where ever it connects at the cooling system end) to the overflow reservoir. That makes it more effective for purging the air from the cooling system.

    Brett

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for all the info , I just called the mechanic who changed my oil and he said it was rotella CJ-4. Also I notice someone said something about having the oil analyze what's that for?

    An oil analysis is an excellent idea-- I do it every other oil change and the next change anytime I change the air filter.

    After changing the air filter, it will tell you if the new filter has a good seal/no dirt is getting around it (silica [sand] is one of the things they test for).

    It will also tell you if there is abnormal wear on engine components, you have gone too long on that oil change, etc.

    With your Caterpillar engine, I would select a Caterpillar dealer who you will be using and buy oil sample kits from them. The advantage of using kits from one dealer is that they keep a record and can tell you if any out of line trends are starting.

    The kits come with a pre-paid mailer. As the oil is drained when changing it, a sample is taken. Mail it in and in a week or so you will get a written report.

    Brett

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Choose any diesel oil that meets Caterpillar specs (and I will add, "that you can find anywhere").

    So, Delo 400 15-40 and Shell Rotella T 15-40 come to mind. There are other oils that meet Caterpillar's specs, but these two you will find at virtually every Walmart in the country as well as at truck stops and auto parts houses.

    Brett

  22. Posted · Report reply

    rhreasley, if your new tires were dated 0810 somethings wrong...that date is not here yet....??????...Dennis

    Dennis,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum-- glad to see you over here.

    0810 is the eighth week of 2010. Central time zone, that has been and past.

    If there is a delay on the left coast, let me know and we can do some serious stock trading together.

    Brett

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I've spent the past couple of hours looking for the daily program for the International Convention in Redmond in August. So far, no luck! It shouldn't be that hard to locate. We are hoping to attend our first FMCA International this fall. We have been at Internationals conducted by 3 other Clubs, and look forward to comparing what FMCA has to offer. Can somebody help me find the Schedule, and program offerings?

    Allan and Pat Smith F366346

    Allan,

    It is after hours in Cincinnati, so no official answer-- I will speculate that the Seminar Schedule for Redmond has not been finalized this far in advance.

    Here is the schedule for the last Convention in Albuquerque, which may give you some idea of the types of things offered:

    http://www.fmca.com/index.php/conventions/...e/2916-seminars

    Brett

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Let's clarify exactly what is happening. Your Allison ECU is programmed with a 4th gear PRE-SELECT for the exhaust brake.

    That does not mean that it down-shifts to 4th at 70 MPH when you turn on the exhaust brake and close the throttle. What it means is that is down-shifts TOWARD 4th gear, but with the caveat that it will not down-shift to a lower gear until it is safe (from and engine RPM standpoint) to do so. Compare your max RPM from your tach with your engine's no load maximum permissible RPM-- you should be fine. Maximum permissible RPM is NOT the same as governed speed, as your engine maximum permissible RPM under no load will be higher than under load.

    But, "for the rest of the story", yes any Allison dealer can reprogram your ECU for whatever "exhaust brake pre-select gear" you choose. Cost should be around $100.

    Higher pre-select gears (like 5th) give a lot of driver control, but require more driver input (use of down arrow) when coming to a stop or on steep descents.

    A lower pre-select gear (like 2nd) is great for coming to a stop, but often "over-brakes" in regular driving.

    FYI, ours is programmed for 5th-- just my personal choice.

    Brett

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Solenoid failure is not that uncommon.

    And if you can locate it outside the battery compartment without adding too much length to those large-gauge cables that is great. Properly gusset them if going through a bulkhead, as they are un-fused.

    I will make a comment on one of your statements-- you say you start the engine once a month while parked.

    STRONGLY suggest that you not start any diesel engine unless you can drive it at least 25 highway miles. If the OIL, not just coolant can not attain operating temperature, you are doing more harm than good by starting. And there is no way that a diesel can reach oil operating temperature without a load on it.

    Also, when parked in one place for an extended period of time, make sure fuel tank is full to minimize condensation.

    Brett

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