wolfe10
-
Content Count
7937 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
81
Posts posted by wolfe10
-
-
You might find this thread on "Mountain Driving" helpful: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=225
Brett
-
The Ford Focus (5 speed) is towable 4 down and does not accumulate mileage.
But, tell us what vehicles you are interested in and perhaps we can address your top choices.
Brett
-
We carry a tire (unmounted) ONLY when traveling to areas where that size tire may be hard to find (such as Mexico). Most all road side assistance trucks (from tire companies) can mount a tire anywhere.
Brett
-
Three leveling valves (two on one axle and one on the other) is common. Yes, there are exceptions such as Gary Jones designed chassis such as Alpine/Peak.
And the ride height valve should vent if it senses "too high". As long as there is no air leak in the "neutral" or in the "too low" position, all is normal.
Brett
-
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
There is no "one answer" to this one. Since the chassis maker specs the exhaust system including muffler, the gain you will have depends on how restrictive your exhaust system is. Some chassis makers saved a few dollars by undersizing components, some went to the other extreme and gave you pretty flow through exhaust systems from the factory (same as happened with air filters).
If you copy the model number off your current muffler, call its manufacturer and determine the CFM and then call your engine manufacturer with that information, they would be able to give you pretty sage advice on what you would gain.
This is all assuming you don't have a late model coach with DPF filter/muffler, catalytic converter, etc. where that part of the exhaust is part of the emission control and must remain in place.
Brett
-
Once you find the solenoid, check with a volt meter to find the 12 plus line. Then apply a jumper between that 12 volt line and the control terminal. If the solenoid operates then the switch is bad. If it doesn't then the solenoid is bad. Just a way to isolate the problem.To amplify just a little, all solenoids have two large lugs-- one always hot, the other hot when the solenoid is energized.
Some solenoids have two small wires, a SIGNAL WIRE and a GROUND.
Some solenoids have only one small wire, the SIGNAL WIRE with the body of the solenoid serving as the ground.
Jumping from the "always hot" large lug to the small SIGNAL WIRE terminal is great. But do NOT jump to the small ground terminal if your solenoid has two small wires. That would be a dead short to ground-- lots of smoke and heat!
Brett
-
If the solenoid has failed (easy to verify), another alternative if the switch is useful to you is to replace it with a better quality solenoid.
I did this 9 years ago and this one has never failed: http://bluesea.com/category/1/productline/8
Note the 1,000,000 cycle mechanical life expectancy!
Brett
-
BrettI think i may have solved the problem. I found the dipstick and it is not accessible. I could probably work it out to look at it, but never fill from it. So, I examined the pan and found some hosing running out of it. The hoses are to the same hoses that supple the power steering fluid, and both eventually go to the reservoir where the PS fluid is held and we can see that the tank is full (there is a glass bubble on reservoir allowing this). I presume it was designed that way fr easy filling and checking levels. Does this sound like it might be correct.
In a word, NO. The hoses out of the transmission normally go to a transmission fluid cooler which is usually located in the radiator. I have never seen a remote reservoir on an Allison transmission. What would keep all the fluid from running down into the transmission?
And no matter how inaccessible the dip stick tube is, one can usually place a pail (Transynd comes in 5 gallon pails) above the dip stick area and with a new/clean clear vinyl hose start a siphon which will automatically fill the transmission (assuming you have the correct amount of fluid in the pail!). So, as long as you can get a hose into the dip stick tube, you can add fluid.
-
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
An example of BUYER BEWARE.
As you say, you will very likely replace the tires based on age, not tread wear. So you will effectively get 2 years less good out of them.
An important lesson.
When I buy tires: I specify the oldest age I will accept (generally 3 months). Any good tire guy knows what you are asking.
The last 4 digits of the DOT number molded into one sidewall of each tire gives the MONTH and YEAR of production.
So, were I buying tires today, the "OLDEST" LAST FOUR DIGITS ACCEPTABLE TO ME WOULD BE 0210 (second week of January 2010). Said another way, a last four digits of 5209 would be older than I would normally except.
Brett
-
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
If there is a possibility of dirt contamination, buy a 5 micron sediment only filter in reusable canister from any building supply store. They can also sell you adapters for female hose IN and male hose OUT for the filter canister and a short length of potable water hose. Here is an example water filter with replacable element.
Here is one already made up at PPL: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pump...ter-filters.htm
Also, does water pressure vary at any other faucets-- particularly at others in the same area as the toilet? If you unscrew the aerator on a sink faucet, is it full of dirt?
I would also give the toilet manufacturer a call. Since you don't say what brand it was replaced with, I can't post a link.
Brett
-
OK, Another question for some clarification.I had a private message from another FMCA electrician. And I am very grateful at the generosity from people to help those who are new to all this. But, he offered an alternative set-up which, he claimed, could save on some wiring costs since I have two relatively long runs.
His suggestion was to use 2-pole 30 amp breakers at the pedestal, from which could be run a 50 amp plug, and a 30 amp plug. I am sure I am leaving out some details. He also mentioned alternating feeds from pedestal to pedestal to keep the load even overall. He and I talked on the phone and his knowledge of all this is way above mine, but he is right that the cost of long runs of heavy gauge wiring is significant.
Any thoughts?
Don
Don,
I suspect something has been left out.
The use of a two pole breaker suggests two HOTS.
With only three wires: One HAS to be neutral and one HAS to be ground, that only leaves one wire as the hot.
Eliminate the neutral and you would not have 120 VAC (two hots and a ground= 240 VAC). Eliminating the ground (so that wire could be used as the second hot) would violate every electrical code in the country.
Perhaps more information on what he suggests each of the three wires will do would clear it up.
Brett
-
While it may be acceptable (in terms of both safety and manufacturer's tolerances) for the system to leak down in half a day, there is no reason that you can not try to identify and correct this slight leak.
After safely installing jack stands or comparable, crawl under with some kiddie bubble solution or even dish washing soap solution. Apply some to each fitting and valve-- a tooth brush (NEVER your own) helps apply it to hard to reach places. If you see bubbles, you have found the leak.
Brett
-
All these are correct with one exception. If you jumper with 30A connection to both hot blades, the voltmeter will read 0 volts difference between these two blades (outer hot to outer hot). Since the two hots are not opposite phase, there will be no difference in their charge status and no voltage difference between the two. You will still register 120V between either hot and the neutral or the ground.Correct.
My description was for a standard (correct) 50 amp RV outlet.
Brett
-
Let me expand on Tom's excellent post.
50 RV Outlet:
Two hots to outer straight prongs.
One neutral to center straight.
One ground to center round.
EITHER hot to either ground or neutral reads 120 VAC.
Outer hot to outer hot reads 240 VAC.
Center straight (neutral) to center round (ground) reads 0 VAC.
Brett
-
Carole,
Well, you have talked with one installer you can cross off the list. Panels large enough to do you any good are too large and too heavy to mount on A/C units.
There are solar panels that can mount on the A/C units, but they are STRICTLY to maintain the batteries, WAY too small to charge them while the coach is in use.
And panels are paralleled/seriesed, depending on their voltage (just like batteries) your coach has a 12 VDC system. Panels should charge from 13.2-14.5 VDC.
Brett
-
I already have a 50a box and 3 wire 30a cable. I only plan on using 30a, and my question then is how to wire to the 4 receptacle posts with my 3 wire cable. I understand green is ground, white is neutral, and black would go to one of the 2 posts on the 50a receptacle. Would this work, or do I need to add another jumper wire to the other hot post?To wire 3 wires (hot, neutral and ground) to a 50 amp outlet, you would connect the hot to either hot on the outlet (outer straights) and jumper to the other. Obviously, you will be limited in what you can draw.
Another option is to use a 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter from any camping store and just plug into the properly wired 30 amp outlet.
Brett
-
Don,
50 amp wiring: http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp%20Service.pdf
30 amp RV wiring: http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
Brett
-
Admit to not understanding much about how the batteries work with the solar panels. Do they just draw energy as they need from the solar panels? Do the solar. If my microwave needs more watts than what I see on the websites for panel output, does that mean every time I need the microwave I have to start the generator? I understand I need a controller. IS there also somewhere where I can see a wiring diagram of how this all fits together - being a visual learner that would help.Thanks,
Carole
Carole,
In a manner of speaking, yes, the batteries just draw energy from the solar panel as the need. Said another way, the controller regulates the amount of energy the solar panels send to the batteries such that the batteries are not overcharged. Of course, if the solar panel output is less than electrical demand, the batteries will be discharged at the difference in charge rate less discharge rate.
And short term use of the microwave is less dependent on solar panel output than on the capacity of your inverter (which turns battery voltage into 120 VAC). So, energy can be "borrowed" from the batteries to power that high load and then returned to the batteries from the solar panels.
But, if you have to run the generator some to recharge batteries anyway, the best time to do so is when you have a large electrical draw such as the microwave, as the discharge and then recharge process is NOT 100% efficient.
One consideration is to buy an oversized controller (larger capacity than required by the panels you THINK you will need. That way, if you want to add more panels later, all you would buy is the additional panels.
And using solar and supplementing with the generator charging through your converter or charger is perfectly acceptable.
For how your coach is wired, you will need to contact your coach maker-- there are too many acceptable ways to wire it to allow for generalizations.
Wiring of solar is as I described in my first post. Certainly wire access from roof to batteries will help determine wire turns and controller location.
Brett
-
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
What area of the country are you in? That may help in guiding you to a competent Solar source in your area.
And first thing is to determine your electrical needs (in amp-hrs/24 hours).
In sizing the system, you will need to consider your needs and the REAL output per panel (as opposed to the stated output which is under ideal conditions). Also, normal hours of sun per day where you park. If you are in the Oregon, for example, you will more panels than if you are in Arizona as average hours of sun and sun intensity are different. Shade vs fully exposed camp sites.
You will need a controller (regulator) sized larger than the sum of your panel output.
You will need over-sized wiring for minimal voltage loss from roof panels to controller and from controller to battery bank.
You may also want to look at your converter or charger. Newer high-output "smart" chargers or charger inverters recharge batteries much faster from generator or shore power.
And along with your charger, if you need to replace your house batteries, consider AGM batteries. They are more expensive, but will accept a charge at a far greater rate than wet cell batteries. These last two minimize generator run time when that is your charge method.
Brett
-
We have a fridge that is freezing food. Unit is current running on electricity, but can run on batteries and gas as well.Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
The fridge has a slide control for temp.
I assume it could be either the control or the temp. sensor? Is there a way to test these? What else could it be?
Thanks
Some refrigerator models do have temperature controls-- don't know if yours does or not. Obviously, if so, turn it warmer.
If no temperature control, slide the temperature sensor DOWN (so it is in a colder location in the refrigerator and will therefore signal the PC board to run less, therefore make the refrigerator warmer).
If that does not correct it, turn off 12 VDC (or pull fuse) and unplug 120 VAC to the refrigerator and with a pencil eraser clean the contacts on the PC board.
Yes, a PC board or temperature sensor could be bad, but you might want to start with the easy/free stuff first.
Brett
-
A great thread-- keep it coming.
Many of us (including Dianne and I) will head west (we enjoy Hwy 50-- the loneliest road in America), then through the CA wine country and north along the coast before heading inland for the FMCA Convention in Redmond this August.
Brett
-
Have any of you heard about water splashing up onto oil sending unit causing alarm.YES. Oil pressure sending unit, coolant temp sending unit, etc. Water (with dirt) conducts just enough electricity to cause a false alarm. Dismantle, clean to bare metal and lightly coat with a di-electric grease (auto parts store, Radio Shack, etc). Same for roof top "antenna up" alarm.
-
We will be taking two of our grandchildren by motor home from Minneapolis to the Florida Panhandle this June. We have not yet determined our route, or attractions along the way. Recommendations of RV parks that might interest the kids (ages 6 and 7), as well as attractions along the way would be very much appreciated.How much time to you have for the trip?
Any particular interests that the kids have?
Brett
-
Good advice. I check the electrolyte levels frequently because I worry about leaving it on the charger continuously, but only replenish with distilled water as necessary - usually once/month. I've been all over the rig with a digital multi-meter to check for voltage bleed-off (which I haven't found) but, I don't recall checking the voltage-in with the multi-meter. I check the installed voltage meter which usually reads 13.8 - 14 vdc. Thanks. I'll try that and see what the read is at the battery(ies).Ya, anything over about 13.5 VDC is too high for being plugged in 24/7.
Again, what converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have? Many higher end ones are programmable (read that-- they NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED).
Brett
Important Safety Issue: Monaco, HR & Safari Chassis
in Type A motorhomes
Posted · Report reply
Yes, I have seen the same News Release. I then contacted the name on the News Release. He had someone in parts call me. The kits are being prepared, as are installation instructions. The information will be forwarded to me as soon as available, and I will post the specifics here.
I also recommended that Monaco/Navistar put the information on their website so we can provide everyone a link.
STAY TUNED.
UPDATE: 5/9 no information yet-- I sent another e-mail requesting it to Monaco.
Brett