Jump to content

wolfe10

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    7937

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    81

Posts posted by wolfe10

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Hey I tuned in late to the broadcast. Did the presenter address the benefits/risks of inflating tires with nitrogen? All my vehicles, including daily drivers, exotic and our 43' class A have been inflated with nitrogen vs. air. The product is inexpensive, causes tires to run cooler and I've noticed a slight mileage improvement (2/10's) in the motor home.

    For more information on Nitrogen in tires, see this thread: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showto...rogen&st=20

    Brett

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Everyone has heard the quote that "When you're up to your behind in alligators, it's hard to remember that you only wanted to drain the swamp."

    Being new (less than 1 year) to Class A motorhomes, I was under the impression that they where 220 volts because they have a four-prong 50-amp cord. I learned the hard way that this is not so.

    My project was to install an outside outlet, to plug the motorhome into before we leave for a trip, to charge the batteries and cool the refer. I hired an electrician to install the receptacle. I told him that I didn't need a four-prong 50/A receptacle and to just install a three-prong 30/A (RV) plug. He wired the 30/A for 220/V as I had told him. Big mistake! When we turned the power on nothing worked except the electric water heater. After a minute or so, the A/C controller in the Magnum inverter/charger fried. I place most of the blame on myself, but I wish the electrician had challenged me so we could have researched to voltage for motor homes

    The people at Magnum where fantastic in helping me diagnose the problem and how to cure it. It was cured with a $205 A/C controller.

    I hope this costly experience helps some other poor soul.

    Yup, a not infrequent EXPENSIVE Mistake.

    50-amp RV connections have two HOTS (on opposite "phases" so 220 VAC between the hots), one NEUTRAL and one GROUND.

    30-amp RV connection has ONE HOT, one NEUTRAL and one GROUND.

    A house dryer connection has TWO HOTS and will destroy a lot of equipment in an RV!

    Brett

  4. Posted · Report reply

    This morning we heard noises that sounded like were coming from our hitch.

    Surprise: Roadmaster was cleaning and lubricating our hitch! Apparently they are traveling the convention grounds at Balloon Fiesta park and finding Roadmasters and giving this complimentary service!!!

    YUP, just got back to our coach and had a note from Roadmaster that they had serviced and lubed our tow bar as well.

    Brett

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Brett,

    I have a 1997 Discovery on a Freightliner XC with the original Bilsteins. It rides very harsh, with every bump, rough spot registering inside the coach. I have fixed the wandering with a Steer Safe bellcrank but would like the ride to be softer. I have weighed the coach and carry 90 psi in front & 85 in the rear. The coach has over 104,000 miles on it.

    Will I be happier with Konis? What do you suggest?

    Harry Salit

    Harry,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    First thing I would check is ride height. Get the dimensions from Freightliner. If, for example ride height is too low, suspension travel is severely limited and hitting small bumps can cause the suspension to bottom out/crash. It is easy to check and easy to adjust. As with any ventures under a coach, make sure to use safety stands.

    And, I assume your tire pressure is that recommended for your actual wheel position/axle weights by your tire manufacturer.

    If Koni FSD shocks are available for your chassis, yes, they will likely give you an improved ride.

    Brett

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Hello.

    I'm considering replacing the stock 2.7GPM water pump in my Fleetwood Providence with a 4.0GPM pump. I currently have a 10-amp circuitbreaker. The new pump is rated to 10 amps max. Do I need any "overage" on the CB amperage or will this work fine?

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    It is actually a little more complicated than that.

    You are correct, you can not reliably run a load of 10 amps on a 10 amp breaker/fuse. I suspect the pump manufacturer speced a 15 amp or so breaker/fuse-- you might look that up or contact the pump manufacturer.

    But, breakers/fuses are generally sized to protect the WIRE, so you will need to verify that the wiring (and relay if pump voltage goes through a relay) is appropriate for the higher load and breaker/fuse. Hopefully, it will be, but it is something you need to verify.

    Brett

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Wayne,

    Glad you caught it before it caused an accident.

    Any time a tire has been run flat be sure to have a tire professional dismount and check it for internal damage.

    If in a duals location, they will need to check the other tire at that wheel position as well, as it will have been run EXTREMELY overloaded.

    http://www.michelinrvtires.com/assets/pdf/...re_June2009.pdf

    On page 8:

    UNDERINFLATION

    This condition is often referred to as a “run-flat†tire.

    It is caused by operating a tire at very low or zero air

    pressure. When a tire is run at normal highway speeds,

    underinflated, it flexes too much and builds up heat.

    This heat damages the inner liner, casing, and outer

    sidewall of the tire. If not remedied quickly, the tire will

    be irreparably damaged.

    In extreme cases, the sidewall of the tire is destroyed,

    from the excessive heat and the weight of the vehicle

    crushing/cutting the tire against the wheel as it rolls on

    the uninflated sidewall. According to guidelines put out

    by the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA), any tire

    that has been run at less than 80% of recommended air

    pressure for the load it is carrying should be inspected

    for possible damage.

    When one tire in a dual configuration comes out of

    service due to under-inflation/run-flat damage, the other

    tire in the dual configuration should be inspected

    immediately. If the unserviceable tire was underinflated,

    that means the serviceable tire was carrying more and

    more of the load for that wheel position. Consequently,

    it too may have suffered some casing damage.

    FATIGUE RUPTURE

    This type of damage is sometimes called a “zipper ripâ€

    because of the zipper-like effect it creates in the steel

    casing cords of the damaged tire. When a casing cord is

    damaged or repeatedly and excessively bent due to overload

    and/or underinflation, it will eventually break and

    subject the cords on either side to even more stress. When

    enough strength has been lost due to additional cord

    breakage, a rupture occurs and can progress rapidly along

    the path of least resistance in the upper sidewall. This can

    happen hours, days, or even months after the initial

    damage event when all evidence or memory of the initial

    damage or overload/underinflation is gone.

    Casing cords in the MICHELIN® truck tires used on

    motorhomes are very strong twisted steel cables. Extreme

    over-deflection of a tire, that can occur during improper

    blocking of tires or high energy impacts, may weaken the

    structure of the cable so as to make it less tolerant of the

    repeated bending stress encountered in normal use. If in

    addition, the integrity of the steel cords is degraded by

    corrosion from moisture reaching the cords through cuts

    or tears in the rubber, their tolerance of these conditions

    will be even further reduced. This corrosion may result

    from mounting damage, foreign objects left inside the

    tire, road hazards, tire mishandling, or even improper

    repair of a nail hole.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Brett, good advice.

    I am new to RV and do not recognize "SCA test strips". Can you fill me in?

    Bill Burgner

    Orlando, FL

    Bill,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    SCA= Supplemental Cooling Additive. It is added to the coolant of all diesel engines (with the possible exception of the Cummins B engine which does not require it).

    It is consumed in the normal operation of a diesel engine and must be replaced to protect the cooling system. Look it up in the cooling system section of your engine's owners manual.

    Test strips are available that check for SCA, freeze point and pH. They are around a $1 each. The DO have an expiration date-- do not use expired test strips.

    Do NOT just add SCA, as too much is as bad as too little. Test and then add if necessary.

    We just wrapped up a Rally of the CATERPILLAR RV Engine Owners Club (an FMCA Chapter)-- one of the things we did is check the SCA, freeze point and pH of every coach that had "regular low silicate for diesel with SCA".

    Brett

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Phil,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    It sounds like you are going about the troubleshooting the right way.

    One thing I would suggest is to use another (portable) charger to fully charge the batteries -- like overnight and then have them load tested. Most auto parts houses, Sears automotive centers, etc will do it for free. You could also check their SG after fully charging them (SG testers are generally under $6).

    If the batteries test good, then I would call Intelepower for their recommended test procedures.

    Brett Wolfe

  16. Posted · Report reply

    You are storing the coach long enough that even if disconnected, the batteries will self discharge.

    So, you will need either a medium/large solar panel, controller and connection to BOTH battery banks or two smaller solar panels, each wired to a battery bank.

    Fuel tank full, and added Biocide (from a marine store) if Diesel; Stabil if gasoline. Be sure to run both main engine and generator long enough after adding the additive to get it fully distributed.

    Tires to full inflation on sidewall unless that exceeds rim maximum.

    Oil changed PRIOR to storage (so acids/moisture not stored in the engine) if over 3000 or 4000 miles on it. Same for generator.

    Cover the tires to protect from UV damage.

    Can't help with advice about water inside to add humidity as we live on the Gulf coast and have the opposite problem (we keep a DEhumidifier in the

    Brett Wolfe

  17. Posted · Report reply

    We have a 2006 Fleetwood Discovery that has a noise that occurs only when we have a quartering headwind from the passgener side. The wind needs to be 15+ knots and our coach speed above 45 mph. These two conditions must be present; otherwise we have no noise. The noise lasts from 2-3 seconds to as much as 10 seconds and is a middle octave metallic-type hum. There is nothing loose; the forward inspection plate is secure; the light frames are secure; and everything else is within normal operating condition.

    Has anyone had or heard of this problem; believe us, it is extremely annoying and is louder than the radio at a normal operating DB level.

    HELP!!

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    To identify the source of the noise, buy a roll of 2" blue (easy to remove) tape. Start taping off areas on that side of the coach until the noise no longer occurs.

    BTW, from your mention of wind speed in knots -- are you a sailor? If so what area and what kind of boat?

    Brett Wolfe

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Anyone familiar with "Electrical" problems (coach elec' , interior lights, fans etc ) experienced on 2009/2010 Fleetwood Icon Class C ?

    If so, please reply with any information....greatly appreciated.

    Post as much information as you can about the problem you are having-- there are several here who are familiar with 12 VDC electrical systems.

    Brett Wolfe

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I find it interesting that no one mentioned altitude. That is the Western equivalent of "watch out". For instance, you could be driving North of Flagstaff and not get any snow, but in Flagstaff you could come to a halt: Flagstaff is in the middle of the mountains, and is above a mile in elevation. Those who talk about I-40 need to take elevation into consideration, and Flagstaff always comes up in the conversation...drive safe!

    Indeed, this time of year, weather IS a consideration anywhere.

    But, east of Albuquerque, I 40 is a LOT lower than west of Albuquerque.

    Brett

×
×
  • Create New...