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wolfe10

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Posts posted by wolfe10

  1. Posted · Report reply

    That makes sense. I have been having some charging issues lately. Checks indicate that the alternator is OK and it's a brand-new chassis battery.

    Could a weak or failing house battery draw voltage off the system to cause the main battery to show symptoms of losing its charge? It stays plugged-in to 115vac so I have to check the batteries on a weekly basis for the electrolyte levels.

    Thanks.

    Best advice is to fully charge all batteries and go to a place that sells batteries for a free load test.

    Also, verify that chassis as well as house batteries are charged from shore power. If not, add an Xantrex Echo charger, Trickle charger, etc.

    And what converter/charger do you have that causes you to have to check electrolyte level on a weekly basis? Sure sounds like it is overcharging the batteries. 13.2-13.5 VDC is where they should be once float has been achieved (check with digital voltmeter 24+ hours after plugging in).

    Brett

  2. Posted · Report reply

    The official coach count was 1,870, which includes 1,717 family coaches and 153 exhibitor coaches.

    A story recapping the convention will appear in the May issue of Family Motor Coaching magazine and on FMCA.com.

    These numbers really understate true attendance at the Convention. There were a large number of attendees who chose to stay in the many commercial CG's around Albuquerque vs camping at the Balloon Field. Since Convention camping at the Balloon Field was about a 35 minute drive from the Convention location, far more people than usual choose to stay in full hookup sites and just day pass to the Convention.

    I do not have a coach count for these additional attendees, but it certainly ran to several hundred.

    Brett

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Brett,

    I have to ask.

    When I'm getting ready to pull up stakes, I start the engine to pull in the slides and raise the jacks. Then I go outside and unplug the power cord. So it could be sitting there building up air pressure and idling for about 5 minutes before we "get underway." So now the question. Is that satisfactory to do?

    p.s., The manual states to run the engine to operate the slides. That allows the alternator to provide some of the 12 vdc instead of drawing just off the batteries.

    Wayne,

    If the owners manual calls for the engine to be running, then I would do it that way. But, it would surprise me that this would be necessary to provide extra 12 VDC amps IF you are still plugged in-- your converter/charger, particularly after being plugged in overnight will have the batteries plenty charged to bring in the slides. Perhaps there is some other reason???

    And most recommend starting the diesel, letting the engine idle for 30-40 seconds and then bumping the idle up to high idle speed (1,000 to 1,100 RPM) for faster warm-up. Most coaches have this idle up feature in the cruise control.

    Brett

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Brett is right in that a 25 mile drive is best, but I think if you can't do that, at least run the engine long enough to get it to operating temperature and circulate fluids. Sometimes I'm just plumb too lazy to go for a drive (and too cheap to waste ten bucks on gas) so I cruise in the driveway to get everything moving - - engine, tranny, drive shaft, rear axle, wheel bearings, etc.

    Actually, at least, the major diesel engine manufacturers all suggest NOT starting their engines unless they can be driven at highway speeds long enough to get the oil up to operating temperature. Starting and idling, even at high idle, is worse on the engine than not starting it at all.

    Brett

  7. Posted · Report reply

    The real issue here goes beyond battery charging. The worst thing to do to a motorhome is let it sit idle for weeks at a time, plugged in or not. I could (should?) write a book on what happens to idle motorhome engines, transmissions, wheel bearings, appliances, etc. when they sit idle, but for now, my words of advice are, if you can leave it plugged in, do so. If you can move it at least once a week, do so. If you're plugged in, let the appliances run.

    Summer or winter, our rig is on shore power if we're not on the road. It gets started and moved at least every week. The heat pumps are on, the fridge is on and the water pump gets exercised to purge all the lines. I don't have a smart charger, and it only charges the coach batteries. The engine battery is charged off two 15 watt solar panels. I check battery acid levels every couple of months.

    We replaced the coach and engine batteries 2 years ago, so 8 years out of the original 6 year batteries ain't so bad.

    Agreed-- it is better to use them than just let them sit.

    But, let's define "drive it" (while being stored). If you can't drive it at least 25 HIGHWAY miles, don't start it. To be effective, you need to get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature.

    And for those with a "dumb" converter that could overcharge the batteries of left on 24/7, an option is to buy a HD timer, like at Home Depot) and plug the converter into it. Let it come on for an hour a day.

    Brett

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I have a 1999 Safari Sahara, 35' with 1 slide. I've been having trouble with the modifications the coach portion of Safari made to the Magnum portion. The wiring is marked every few inches, but how the different functions work has been frustrating to say the least. My latest mystery was when the Hadley Air horns and step cover quit working. The Safari coach folks added a additional relay so that the Pac-Brake compressor furnished air to both the Pac-Brake system and filled the reservoir for the horn and step cover. After a commercial repair job ($$$), the system worked for a while then quit. I have split the system to a compressor for the reservoir, and a compressor for the Pac-Brake. I would like to find out if the clipped wires going to the chassis relay could be re-connected. Currently the compressor for the Pac-Brake is turned on with the ignition (I suspect so that the reservoir in front would be filled) and remains on. Any written info on the magnum chassis functions would be helpful. I was able to get the coach wiring schematics, DC and AC, at a old Safari rally which has been most helpful in trouble shooting those particular problems. Chassis electrical problems have been another matter. - Jon

    Jon,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    I am not sure what you are asking. It sounds like your compressor(s) are wired correctly, with an ignition hot used to activate the relay to supply battery power to the compressor. As long as the compressors are wired this way (using ignition source only to close the relay), you can gain ignition source from virtually anywhere, as you are adding less than a one amp load.

    Brett

  10. Posted · Report reply

    We used to have a '95 coach and Allison said to never use the dip stick but instead use the instructions for checking your fluid level with the transmission keypad. I don't know if yours is capable of this operation but if so, that's where you should be checking your fluid levels.

    Bill,

    No, that feature did not exist on the hydraulic 4 speed or even early MD2060 6 speeds.

    Brett

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I purchased a new Class A coach and am being told different things about how/if to charge while stored. I am curious if I should use a "smart" trickle charger or if I have the option, would it be better to leave plugged in to shore power while stored? I have a 50amp cord coming from the coach, 50-30 amp adapter and also a 30-15 amp adapter. What's the best way to keep the coach batteries fresh while being stored? Thank's

    The reason for different answers is, that indeed it DEPENDS. If you have a "smart" converter, charger or inverter/charger AND it is properly programmed, leave it plugged in 24/7.

    If you have a "dumb" converter you do not want to keep it plugged in 24/7 as it is likely to overcharge the batteries and boil out the water.

    Smart units (when properly programmed) maintain battery voltage at the proper 13.2-13.5 VDC. So, at least 24 hours after plugging in (to allow the unit to cycle through the bulk and absorption phases and reach FLOAT) measure voltage at the batteries with a digital voltmeter.

    This will also tell you that BOTH battery banks are being charged as is best if stored long-term.

    Read your charger's owners manual for programming instructions. The "smarter ones" ask for several things: battery size (in amp-hrs), type of battery (wet cell, gel or AGM), ambient temperature (for those that do not have a temp probe on the battery), etc..

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I have a 1993 Allison 643 in my 1993 40' Vouge Prima Vista. Any suggestions on where to find the dipstick. My manual says it and the fill cap (I don't know the real name of the spot where you also put the fluid in) are one in the same and it is supposed to be on the side. My tech, who does not work on automatic transmissions, cannot seem to locate. Any suggestions ?

    A quick look from underneath should quickly reveal the dipstick/fill tube's location.

    Some are accessed from above (bedroom area).

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I have two 12-volt house batteries in series. Do I hook up the trickle charger to both batteries, ie...the negative on one battery and the positive on the other?

    Or do I have to charge each of these batteries separately?

    Actually, I suspect you have two 12 VDC batteries in PARALLEL (positive of battery one to positive of battery two, negative of battery one to negative of battery two).

    Were they wired in series, you would be running the coach on 24 VDC!

    And, yes you can hook a trickle charger to the positive terminal of either battery and the negative to the negative of either battery for charging.

    Be aware that all trickle chargers are NOT the same. You want one that will maintain the proper voltage (check with digital voltmeter after fully charged-- 24 and again at 48 hours). Voltage, once the batteries are charged should be between 13.2 and 13.5 VDC. Below that means they are not being charged properly, and above that means they are being overcharged/water boiled out of them.

    Brett

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Montie,

    Are you a member of any CG group such as Passport?

    Let us know what discounts you have available-- many of us were just in Albuquerque for the FMCA Convention last week and have first hand information on some of them.

    Also, is there a particular area of Albuquerque that you want to be in/things you are interested in doing there?

    Lastly, what time of year is your trip-- shade is more important in the summer (but as you are right at a mile high it does cool off at night).

    Brett

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Brett thanks for the input. I call the trickle charger a drip charger. I am pretty certain that the trickle maintains both, chassis and house. As the house batteries are fully charged and the chassis battery seems to be gaining some amps, sinc eyesterday.

    I will keep you posted.

    Here's another rookie question. Since, my house batteries charge off the engine alternator, is there any reason to run the generator while driving. Wouldn't the engine alternator handle the house batteries as they supply the internal appliances and whatever else is drawing?

    Normally a trickle charger maintains the chassis battery, with the "main" charger, converter or inverter/charger taking care of the house batteries.

    And VOLTS are what you measure to determine battery charge (yes, amps can be used, but require monitoring with some higher end equipment such as the Xantrex Link products).

    Basically, if battery is 13.2 to 13.5 VDC, they are being charged. Readings up to about 14.2 are OK if the batteries are deeply discharged (bulk mode).

    And your alternator should charge BOTH house and chassis batteries while the engine is running-- they always charge the chassis battery, or you could not drive very far without running them down. Again all you need to do is check voltage at both battery banks with engine running. With shore power off and engine running, voltage should be 13.5 VDC to 14.2 VDC.

    Brett

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Have 2006 HR Neptune with an Allison 5 spd, with a Cummins ISB 300. Transmission manual recommends not using in economy mode in city driving or mountains. What is your opinion?

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    You might go back to the first post in this topic-- it covers the HOW it works and my observation on how I use it.

    The how it works is FACTUAL. The WHEN to use is is based on our individual preferences/opinions.

    We just drove home from Albuquerque-- used economy mode 100% of the trip. If I had hit a passing situation on a two lane road where I would be happy to trade a lot of fuel for a little more performance, I would have selected power mode for that situation.

    Brett

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On our recently purchased 2005 Endeavor with 400 HP Cummins, pushing the mode button does not turn the light on. Don't know if supposed to or not applicable on this model.

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Easy to test:

    Accelerate in power mode, noting max engine RPM in each gear.

    Do the same with the mode button on.

    If the shifts are at lower RPM with mode on, it is working-- and perhaps the bulb is bad???

    Let us know what you find.

    Certainly, any Allison dealer can connect their computer and tell you.

    Brett

  19. Posted · Report reply

    The answer is that all your propane appliances are designed for use while driving. Not sure I would use stove while driving though!

    Is there a small incremental risk-- sure. But most of us find the risk WELL within an expectable range.

    This ASSUMES you use kiddie soap bubbles (then rinse with fresh water) to check all propane connections at least annually.

    It also assumes that you turn off ALL PROPANE APPLIANCES while fueling (turning off the propane is NOT the same, as the igniters will still spark if the appliance controls says "light my fire".

    I would suggest that you are much more likely to have problems from food poisoning if you travel many hours with the refrigerator off than to have a problem caused by a propane system in good repair.

    BTW, not sure what you mean by propane fueled "heat strips". Heat strips are resistance heaters in your 120 VAC A/C's.

    Brett

  20. Posted · Report reply

    .

    Here are my questions:

    1. Does the drip charger charge the chassis battery ?

    2. With the Chassis Battery switch off, would there be any type of draw off the chassis battery, to run it down?

    3. Could a couple of cold nights have drained the battery

    4. Will drip charger eventually replenish the chassis battery, assuming the battery is still good, which i believe it is.

    Thanks for any thoughts you may have

    1. There are too many ways that converters, chargers or inverter/chargers can be set up to be able to tell you how yours is wired. But with a digital voltmeter (start under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) you can tell very quickly what is happening on your coach. With shore power on, check voltage at each battery bank. Over 13.0 indicates a battery is being charged.

    2. Again, too many ways for these to be wired. Easy answer is to use a 12 VDC ammeter to check for draw with the switch OFF.

    3. Shouldn't. But your battery may be bad-- deeply discharging them is REALLY hard on any battery, particularly starting batteries. You should completely charge them and have them load tested (most places that sells batteries will do it for free).

    4. You need to tell us what charger you have. "Drip Charger" is not a term I know. Do you have a converter, charger or inverter charger for your house battery charging? Do you have a second charger for the chassis batteries? And yes, a trickle charger, Xantrex Echo charger, etc will keep the chassis battery bank up if working and properly wired.

    BTW, be sure to check battery water level. If the plates are exposed, it is another sign that the batteries are on their last legs.

    Brett

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Harry,

    It does not surprise me that the ride is not significantly different between Koni FSD's and any shock with over 100,000 miles on it-- both should ride softly.

    What you should notice is better handling, less porpoising, etc (i.e. better control).

    I can't answer your question on two different shocks for your chassis, call Jim Ryan at Koni (859) 488-0339.

    Brett

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Rob,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Indeed, start by weighing and using the correct tire pressure. If that does not achieve all your goals, THEN start looking at aftermarket devices.

    Both Michelin and Goodyear have RV tire PSI/load charts on their websites.

    Obviously, the first step is to have 4 wheel position weighting (BEST) or at least axle weights (ASSUMES perfect left/right weight distribution-- unlikely) with the coach loaded as you normally travel (with people in their seats, etc).

    If 4 wheel position weights, use heavier wheel position on each axle to go to the chart. Add 5 PSI safety reserve to the chart number (which is the MINIMUM PSI for that given weight). If you only have axle weights, add 10 PSI (assuming it does not exceed tire or wheel recommendations to account for left/right imbalance and safety reserve.

    Brett

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Brett.

    I envy the fact that you are at the rally.

    I have an 8 air bag. As for the issues, the coach drives and handles great but as most I have a sway with the trucks passing, it would be nice to relax a little more with the trucks at interstate speeds. The steering is responsive and good but the valleys in some of the roads causes some sway. I think the directional when encountering winds and trucks would be my main concern. I was surprised when the service gave man voiced his concerns he had with the Steer Safe after reading all the testimonies concerning the performance on their coach. I am not sure I need this but if it will improve the wind issue that would be great

    OK, recommendations in order:

    Add a Safe T Plus.

    If you still want more help with the sway issues, Roadmaster does have a larger front sway bar for the Roadmaster 8 bag suspension.

    Lastly, I suspect you have Monroe shocks. Upgrading to Konis would certainly not hurt.

    Brett

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I have been looking into putting a stabilizer on my 2008 Knight DFT. I have read about the different kinds and from all I read I had decided on the Steer Safe. I went this afternoon to buy and have it installed on the Roadmaster chassis. I was told by the service person that my coach was too heavy for the Steer Safe. He suggested to install another and more expensive hydraulic model, I think a Safe T. From what I read, the guys who have that one have trouble with centering and keeping it centered, whatever that means. My coach drives great and handles great, but I was trying to reduce the movement with bad pavement and truck movement when passed. I would love for you guys to give me some input, because I am confused.

    Montie,

    We have over 100,000 miles on a Safe T Plus with no centering issues-- it is bolted in place so it would surprise me if one got "off center".

    BUT, let's look more closely at what you are trying to achieve.

    Do you have the 4 air bag or 8 air bag suspension?

    And if you can go into more detail on what you are wanting to improve-- is it sway (side to side), vague steering, directional stability when encountering side winds, etc.

    We are currently at the FMCA Convention-- I would be happy to visit with one of the suspension guys I know who has designed quite a lot of the motorhome suspensions over the last decade and get his recommendation.

    Brett

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