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wolfe10

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Posts posted by wolfe10

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Interesting. GetMostlyAllCash (GMAC) has a different take than the RV industry does. After some research I've found that its not the propane heat its the heat period whether its electric or propane that causes the fire. There have been almost the same number of fires started when the refer is on electric as when on propane.

    Of course since GMAC is a paid advertiser FMCA will not have comments.

    I plan to call tomorrow and cancel my membership in FMCA. Any person with much experience would not only see the blatant bias in the three page commercial but the inexperience of the writer.

    I wish you folks well and now I understand why FMCA is struggling to gain membership.

    OK, you have made a total of three posts on the Forum-- all on the same subject-- we understand your position.

    Other than that one sentence, what else did you find objectionable in three full pages of text in the "Top RVing Mishaps" article?

    I doubt many will quit any organization that offers as much as FMCA does to motorhomers because of a disagreement over one sentence, but it is your decision.

    BTW, I posted my opinion on this above.

    Brett

  4. Posted · Report reply

    At the top of this page, click on "Chapters/Areas."

    When that opens, go down and click "Area chapters."

    Scroll over right and click on the Geographic area in which you have interest OR click on INTERNATIONAL.

    No, International Area chapters are not overseas. They are chapters that are not geographically based. People from all over the North America with similar interests participate in those chapters.

    Brett

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Hello, Your Foretravel can support your weight on your roof, Just respect the sides, try to stay away from that area. A Foretravel roof is made with a 1 piece of metal, unlike some that are seamed.. cltisdale

    ABSOLUTELY, the Foretravel roof is very well built and can support several people at the same time-- been there, done that. I installed two new roof A/C units a year ago and with two people and an A/C unit, no flexing at all, and it is a one piece fiberglass room, so no worries about tearing a rubber roof.

    If the OP has a Foretravel, indeed that is the answer.

    Brett

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Since most RV's have a ladder leading to the roof, am I under the assumption that the roof will support a normal size adult if he or she wants to inspect the roof for any external faults which might lead to problems?

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    I agree with you that inspection of seams and roof-mounted equipment is a very good idea.

    But whether all coaches (and more critically YOUR coach) are built to standards that support that concentrated weight on the roof is an ASSUMPTION that I would not make. I would VERIFY it with your coach manufacturer. I suspect it will be true for the majority of coaches, but not all. And weight of the individual, as you suggest, could very well play a role in the decision.

    If you post what coach you have, you may get some information based on first hand experience.

    Brett

  7. Posted · Report reply

    A very large part of the equation (risk/reward) is whether you do the annual burner tune-up as outlined in your refrigerator owners manual and perform the proper propane system safety checks on a regular basis (PSI, leaks, frayed hoses, stressed metal lines, etc).

    If you do the prescribed Preventive Maintenance, your risk will likely fall within the "very reasonable" range (My OPINION, not a legal recommendation).

    Totally ignore the propane and refrigerator maintenance, and your risk WILL be higher.

    Since many do not perform needed maintenance, statistical information WILL show higher risk. I do not question the data, but realistically, one must factor in whether these systems are maintained properly or just neglected to assess YOUR risk.

    It has been suggested that your risk of food poisoning from turning off a refrigerator exceeds your risk of fire IF you properly maintain your systems.

    Brett

  8. Posted · Report reply

    To be sure, consider calling the company at 800 670 0707.

    Indeed, call Xantrex on Monday.

    And, yes, many voltmeters do not read non-sine wave VAC voltage accurately.

    I assume this high reading is a new issue. So, until resolved, don't turn on the inverter.

    Brett

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Hi wintersden,

    Welcome to the FMCA forum. Like Bill posted, the GS discount is offered at many more CGs than the FMCA discount. That is the macro view. If you happen to camp where the FMCA discount is offered just as much as the GS discount; for that benefit there would be no difference. However, both organizations offer many more benefits than just the CG discount. Consider looking at all the benefits each organization has to offer. Determine the value of these benefits to you. Then make your decision. For me, I belong to both organizations.

    We also belong to both. FMCA for its many benefits (http://www.fmca.com/index.php/join-family-...n/why-join-fmca) and Good Sam for its more widely accepted CG discounts.

    We attend many FMCA rallies and conventions and belong to several FMCA Chapters. Have not been to any Good Sam events.

    Brett

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Hi sancat11,

    Best I know, the Cummins ISC does not have an exhaust brake. It has an engine brake.

    NO, the ISL (8.9 liter) is the smallest Cummins that can be ordered with a compression brake, and many of them are exhaust brake equipped.

    All C engines (8.3 liter) are exhaust brake only.

    Brett

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Last year I hooked up to shore power, left for an hour, came back to electrical fire smell. The TVs, small appliances and inverter were fried. Went to Monaco had all replaced, everything appeared fine, I added the 50 amp E.M.S. . At the next campground I had no shore power, the transfer switch was bad. Replaced the IOTA transfer switch with another, it lasted about 4 months. When I replaced the last one, the IOTA technician said I should only hear a click when the generator started; it clicks when I hook up to shore power. Is there a way to trouble shoot and find the problem?

    Thanks in advance

    Dave Beckes

    Dave,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Best advice is to contact IOTA.

    You will want to verify that you have the wires to the ATS from generator are to the IOTA/Monaco recommended terminals in the ATS. Same for the wires from shore power.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    There WILL be some draw on the chassis battery while in storage.

    Things like the engine ECM, transmission ECM, etc.

    So an alternative is to provide some small source of charging while in storage.

    If stored with shore power, a Xantrex Echo charger, Trickle Charger, etc work well.

    If not on shore power where you store it, even a small solar panel is usually enough to keep the chassis battery charged (not enough to charge a discharged battery, but enough to keep a charged battery up).

    Deeply discharging any battery markedly shortens its life.

    Brett

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I had new koni's put on and 2 months later 6 of my 8 tires replaced. Tires made most difference in softness of ride by far. I did find I had 2 of the front 4 shocks leaking and a crack in a mount.

    Bob Nicho0lson

    2000 Monaco Signature

    Shock concern posted earlier

    Bob,

    I am not clear on what you are saying.

    I presume it was the old shocks/mounts that were leaking/cracked.

    And did you replace tires with same size, brand and at same PSI, or was there a change in any of these factors? How old were the tires you replaced?

    Brett

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I have a 5-year-old motorhome and the chassis batteries will not keep a charge. I need to use the battery boost button to get the vehicle started. Once started it runs fine. Two days later I tried to start it again and I still need to use the battery boost button. Is this a sign that the batteries are weak? They do not seem to hold a charge. The voltmeter reads 9 volts when I first turn the ignition key. When I press the boost button it goes to 10.5 volts, the engine starts and then it gradually goes to 13.8 volts and stays there till engine is stopped. It then drops back down to 9 volts in a day or so.

    Glenn,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Yes, it sounds like bad chassis batteries if those are readings at the battery. If readings further "down stream", verify all connections are good and/or check readings at the batteries.

    But, before scrapping them, verify that the water level is OK (if not maintenance free batteries) then bring them up to full charge with on-coach or external battery charger. Then have them load tested.

    Brett

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Harry,

    You are very close in left/right weight distribution, and on ride height, so I don't think you have a problem there.

    And I have not driven a coach with the softer Bilsteins, so I can't comment. But clearly, going from a stiffer Bilstein to softer one would give an improved ride. But, that really doesn't help when comparing shocks by different manufacturers.

    Brett

    quote name='harrysusa' date='Apr 26 2010, 04:19 PM' post='7331']

    Hi Brett,

    For the front Freightliner says 10" +/- 0.25". Redlands measured 10.25" on both sides.

    For the rear they say 9.375" +/- 0.125". Redlands measured 9.50". I guess I should have told them to drop them to the low side of spec but the mechanic did not suggest that.

    Last time I had it wighted was in 2006 by RVSEF, RF 3825 lbs, LF 3800 lbs, RR 6875 lbs, LR 6750 lbs. I am sure it has changes some over the years but not drastically. I even tried 80 gls of water & 90 gls of diesel last time out & it still rode rough (and that was with Konis !).

    What do you know about the softer Bilsteins?

    Harry

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Harry,

    When you say ride height is within spec, how far from IDEAL is it?

    And on the axle with two ride height valves, if spec is, say, 10" plus/minus 1/8", raising the light side (from 4 wheel position weighing) 1/8" and lowering heavy side 1/8" helps a little with balancing loads. Do NOT go outside specs in an attempt to balance side to side imbalance by changing ride height.

    Brett

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I'll get this discussion started.

    I see hurricane prep as VERY different from tornado prep.

    Hurricane prep includes not just "OOOH HECK, HERE COMES THE REALLY STORING WIND" but also "I might be without power for a LONG time, food may be in short supply, etc.

    So, if there is even the slightest chance of a hurricane approaching your area:

    1. Fill fuel and propane tank.

    2. Make sure all routine preventive maintenance is done in case you need to evacuate. Sure hate for a clogged fuel filter to put you on the side of the road on the way away from a hurricane, Blow out because you didn't check tire pressure, etc!

    3. Sanitize potable water tank and fill.

    4. Refrigerator: make sure you have done the "annual burner area tune-up" within the last year and that it operates well on propane. Turn on the refrigerator.

    5. Stock the pantry and refrigerator.

    If threat of very high winds is imminent, put in all slides and awnings, secure any loose objects including water and sewer hoses and especially SHORE POWER CORD. Wind storms are often accompanied by electrical storms. You are VERY unlikely to suffer a direct lightening strike (and there is little you can do to change your chances of a direct hit), BUT a nearby lightening strike can easily travel along electrical lines (including ground wire). Unplugging, not just turning off the CG breaker keeps any surges from your coach. And your surge protector is of limited value in containing a nearby lightening strike.

    If you know the direction of the upcoming strong wind, park your back end toward it-- less surface area to be pushed around and less glass. Move out from under any tree that could fall on the coach.

    Lots of debate on whether to leave jacks down or not, and much of that depends on where your jacks are located on the chassis. If the location of the jacks is in front of the front axle and behind the rear axle and well spread side to side, I tend to put the jacks down (on the ground).

    Brett

  21. Posted · Report reply

    The PSI in the bags along with the ability of air to move out of and into the bags as you travel can have a lot to do with the smooth ride.

    Let me expand on Gary's statement.

    The ride height valves control ride height by adding/subtracting air from the air bags, which raises/lowers PSI in the bags.

    As I post frequently, ride height is critical for proper ride and handling. Too low and the suspension bottoms out. Too high and the bags are over-inflated and stiff.

    Brett

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Let's back up a minute.

    Tell us what you got when you opened the primary filter/ water separator. Draining into a glass jar is best, as you can see what you have.

    Was it all golden yellow (clear clean diesel)?

    Was there a separate layer BELOW the golden yellow diesel-- could be clear if pure water or any color of muddy water if contaminated water?

    Was there any black slimy stuff (algae)?

    Only after we know what you found can we offer sage advice. Sure don't want to address contaminated fuel if all you have is a false alarm from your "water in fuel" sensor!

    Brett

  23. Posted · Report reply

    For the Freezer you may want to try Novakool

    They have a freezer that is 1.9 CuFt and 20 5/8x15 5/8x17 3/4 inches in dimension.

    Don't forget to measure the compartment twice, or even 3 times, before buying one that fits.

    And, as Gary mentioned be sure to reduce available basement dimensions for fitting the freezer by the size of the slide out tray you will mount the freezer unit on.

    Brett

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Brett:

    Use 4 wires. First let us assume a short run of say 10 feet. Using 4 conductor #10 wire, one green, one white, one red, & one black. In the main panel connect the red and black wires to the two poles of a 30 amp 2-pole breaker and the white to Neutral and green to Ground. At the other end connect per your diagram to a 50 amp outlet. Yes, I know that there is only 30 amps available on each leg for a total of 60 amps, not 100 if it were wired to a 50 amp 2-pole breaker in the main panel using larger wire. Now below that 50 amp outlet add a 30 amp outlet, wiring as your diagram shows, green to Ground, white to Neutral, and black to Hot. On the next pole running from another 30 amp 2-pole breaker in the main panel, wire the circuit the same, but use the red wire to Hot on the 30 amp outlet. All of this is perfectly safe as long as both plugs on one pole are not used. For longer runs larger wire would have to be used, but all is still safe because the 30 amp breaker protects the wire. The RV can plug into the 50 amp receptical allowing more load than would be allowed in the common 30 amp circuit. If the RV is 30 amp, plug into the 30 amp outlet. The max load is only 30 amp.

    RWB

    Of course. Your description is right on.

    The issue concerns Mccsix's attempt to wire a 50 amp outlet with only three wires vs the (correct) four wire.

    Brett

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