wolfe10

I agree with Tom on HOW to use the service brakes (brake pedal) if it is needed on a descent. BUT (read that a large BUT), if you continue to need to use the service brakes to keep your speed in equilibrium, use the service brakes long/hard enough to slow you down enough TO GRAB A LOWER GEAR that WILL keep your speed in equilibrium. Basics are that service brakes are for stopping ONLY, not for controlling speed of descent on long grades. Brett Wolfe

With your Allison 3000 transmission, heat under climbing conditions should NOT be an issue. The torque converter is LOCKED in 2,3,4,5 and 6th gear. It is slippage in the torque converter that produces most transmission heat. In fact about the only time the Allison will heat up is in stop and go traffic where the torque converter IS slipping. So if stopped at a long light, etc, put it in Neutral. As far as gear to climb, your Cummins (same for Caterpillar and 4 stroke Detroit Diesels) can most economically climb at any RPM at or above PEAK TORQUE RPM. So, Wide Open Throttle as anything over peak torque RPM is fine-- all day long. The only reasons to higher RPM: 1. A (little) more speed. 2. If coolant temperature begins to rise, higher RPM spins the water pump faster/circulates more water to the radiator. Note: particularly on rear radiator configurations, the FRONT of the after-cooler (look inside the fan shroud/between fan blades) needs to be cleaned at least annually to keep the cooling system working properly. And gear for descent (with exhaust brake ON) is "the gear that holds your speed in equilibrium-- so you are neither speeding up nor slowing down. That speed/gear may be 15 mph or 60 mph depending on the grade. Physics dictates that your equilibrium speed will be somewhere between that of a loaded 18 wheeler (you will be faster) and and empty one (you will be slower). And even if on a perfectly straight road and 7% grade, your equilibrium speed will be SLOW-- well below how fast you could "take the curves". Brett Wolfe

As Jim said, when storing the coach turn the inverter off. In addition, when dry camping turn it off when you do not need 120 VAC. It takes a little power (amps) to keep it in "standby mode"-- both from inverter consumption itself and from parasitic load from things like the TV and other appliances. Brett Wolfe

Cookie, Indeed, your Allison 3000 series 6 speed transmission has a mode button as I described above (first post in this thread). And NO transmission is PROactive. Only you can see that you are going from down hill to an 8% upgrade and need to downshift to keep up speed. If you are comfortable with a manual transmission, use the UP and DOWN arrows to select the gear YOU want. And with a Cummins 330 HP, you will not have a Jake brake (also known as an engine compression brake). The Cummins ISL is the smallest engine with an option of a Jake brake. You will have an exhaust brake, though it could be manufactured by Jacobs Corp-- a little confusing. If your shift pad is MIS placed (my opinion-- if it does not fall readily to hand without requiring you to take your eyes off the road to find it), consider moving it. Most shift pads come with plenty of cabling to allow you to relocate it to a more convenient position. Brett Wolfe

Your description would suggest that the batteries are bad. BUT, it is difficult to evaluate the status of a battery unless it is fully charged (i.e. a deeply discharged, WILL test bad). Your converter or inverter/charger should put out 13.2-14.0 VDC. If all you see is 12.0 VDC, either the charger is bad or indeed you have one or more dead cells in the battery. If you have a small automotive type charger, connect it and see what voltage you get. If in the range above, leave it on overnight, while keeping an eye on the batteries. If one gets hot, it indicates a problem. STOP IMMEDIATELY. If after overnight charging, disconnect the batteries and load test. Most any place that sells batteries will test them for free. Another option is to start the engine and see what voltage the alternator puts into the batteries. It is unlikely that both converter and alternator would both be at fault. So if you read 12.0 with the engine running, that would be another sign that the batteries are bad. BTW, I am NOT a fan of gel batteries for house batteries. If you want high end batteries, AGM batteries such as LIFELINE are better-- have used them for decades on our boats and RV's. http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/ Brett Wolfe

Doug, Best MPG when accelerating from a stop is to accelerate slowly until you reach 6th gear. Best economic cruise speed with the 3126 is between 1500 and 1650 in 6th gear. Faster is OK, but WILL use more fuel. And if coming off the highway, you should idle the engine for about 3 minutes to cool down the turbo. For 99% of the CG's we pull into, by the time you pull up to the office, you have ample cool down time and can turn it off. It is on-freeway rest stops and fuel stops where you are going from highway speed to stopped that you have to pay attention to this. For more information on driving economically, read this Caterpillar Document: https://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/287140/7/LEGT5364.pdf Brett Wolfe

What ARE your before and after MPG's-- I assume these were averages over several tanks and under similar driving conditions? You say the power is simply amazing. By chance did you do any timed zero to highway speed before and after? In general, older engines experiences more improvement by tuning such as Banks. In more recent times, the chassis makers have done quite a lot better job of tuning intake and exhaust right from the factory. Thanks. FACTS are scarce here. Brett Wolfe

There are really two parts to the question. First-- what is the coach rated to pull. And it is important to understand that LEAST STRONG component dictates towing capacity. That may be the hitch, transmission, brakes, frame (particularly if extended by the body builder), etc. Sadly, many people just look at the hitch rating, which can be very misleading. The same hitch can be used on a coach whose transmission is right at its GCWR or on one that is 12,000 pounds under its rating. It can be used on a coach with the hitch bolted to the frame or on one with a 6' frame extension. Etc, etc. The second aspect, once you have verified that the coach can pull the weight, is to set reasonable expectations for coach performance. Here is an excellent publication written by Caterpillar, but applicable to all heavy vehicles. It is entitled: "Understanding Coach (RV) Performance". There is a great section on HP required to climb 6% grades at different speeds. https://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/287140/7/LEGT5364.pdf Brett Wolfe

I am familiar with the Allison 3000 and 4000 series. The mode button certainly functions as described on them. I do not know if/how the mode button functions on the gasoline chassis with smaller Allisons. You might call Allison: Allison help line 800 252 5283 And to verify mode button function, next time you are accelerating from a stop in regular mode (Mode OFF), note the max RPM's in each gear before it up-shifts when you are at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Repeat with mode button ON. You should notice a real difference in max RPM before the shift, with it shifting earlier (lower RPM) in Mode ON. Brett Wolfe

ALLISON MODE BUTTON There are TWO TOTALLY DIFFERENT "LET THE TRANSMISSION CHOOSE THE CORRECT GEAR" MODES/PROGRAMS in the Allison ECU which is the "electronic brain" controlling shifting and other functions. In ECONOMY MODE, the transmission will not downshift even at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until the engine pulls down to peak torque RPM in some application and 200 RPM lower that "regular mode" in others. In REGULAR MODE, the transmission WILL downshift much earlier (to maintain higher engine RPM). ONLY at higher throttle positions is there any difference, so on flat ground you will NOT notice any difference (except accelerating from a stop IF you are at or close to wide open throttle). It can make a BIG difference in rolling hills. If you are in rolling hills and regular mode (particularly with the cruise control on), it is common for the transmission to shift down to 5th on the uphill and back to 6th on the downhill. Repeat this process hundreds of times. In economy mode, you will stay in 6th gear unless the hill is so steep or so long that the engine can not pull it without dropping below peak torque RPM. If you can pull a hill in a higher gear (lower engine RPM) AND the engine does not overheat, THAT IS WHAT CATERPILLAR, CUMMINS, DD, ETC RECOMMENDATION FOR THE MOST ECONOMICAL WAY TO CLIMB A HILL with a modern turbo, after-cooled diesel engine. If you know you will need a lower gear because of the steepness of the grade and/or are engine temperature is rising higher than thermostatically controlled temperature, if driving in economy mode, use the down arrow to drop a gear (this is what I do) or switch out of economy mode. Be sure to switch back into economy mode when past the steep section, or agree to pump extra fuel in the tank. IF your engine begins to overheat, your HP/weight ratio is low OR if it irritates you to loose a few mph on a hill in the name of saving fuel, in the hills, by all means drive in regular mode. It confuses me to hear people advocate driving in economy mode only on flat ground, as there is not 1% difference in shift RPM's between regular and economy mode on flat ground, excepting accelerating from a stop if you use WOT. Every time you start the coach, the transmission is in regular mode. This is the default setting. IF you push the mode button, it goes to "economy mode" AND the light illuminates. There is no "absolute" on how much difference in fuel economy driving in economy mode will have. On flat ground where you will be in 6th gear irrespective of what mode you are in, there will be ZERO difference. The MOST difference in mileage will be in rolling hills, where in regular mode, particularly if on cruise control you will start up a hill in 6th gear, go to WOT in 6th gear, downshift of 5th gear still at WOT (WHERE IT IS USING A LOT MORE FUEL). After the hill is crested, the transmission will up-shift to 6th, then likely coast a little in 6th gear (unless you are driving with the exhaust brake on-- if you are it then applies the exhaust brake AND downshifts TOWARD the pre-select gear which is generally either 2nd or 4th).And so on 6-5-6-5-6-5-6-5....... A modern turbo inter-cooled diesel is much more efficient at low RPM high throttle settings. This is NOT my opinion. It is stated in just those words in most modern diesel's Owner's Manual. Note: In either mode, you are free (and welcome) to use the up and down arrows to PRO-ACTIVELY choose the correct gear. You can not screw anything up-- even if you down-arrow to 1st gear at 70mph, the transmission understands that you meant "please downshift to the next lower gear as soon as the engine RPM will not exceed the pre-set amount. Then downshift again when safe....." By the same token, you can shift between regular and economy mode as often as you want with the transmission in any gear when you make the change. OPINION: I drive in economy mode 99% of the time, including in REAL mountains, but use the up and down arrows to choose the proper gear. I use regular mode ONLY when I am willing to say, "I am willing to throw a lot of fuel away to gain a little performance." When passing on 2 lane roads, THIS IS the case. Brett Wolfe

First, determine the true age of the tire. Coach model year is NOT a good indicator. There is a complete DOT number molded into ONE sidewall of each tire-- it may be facing out or toward the inside. The last 4 digits indicate the WEEK and YEAR of tire production. So, DOT..................0602 was built the 6th week of 2002 and is now over 7 years old. Tire failure rate goes up exponentially after 6 years. And as already suggested, tires over 5 years old should be inspected by a QUALIFIED tire professional. Unlike on car tires, tread depth is NOT AN INDICATOR OF REMAINING TIRE LIFE. On side wall cracks, basically if you can see them, but not get your fingernail in them, you are OK (OK in terms of that crack, anyway). My recommendation is if you are planning on keeping the coach, put on new tires NOW. Why risk tire failure/an accident only to give the next buyer a new set of tires. Brett Wolfe

While there certainly are 12 VDC deep-cycle batteries, most sold for this purpose are "dual-purpose" or marine batteries. And many are purchased by those who just don't know the difference. As long as they fill your amp needs, I would not change them. BUT. when you shop for replacements, I suspect you will find that 6 VDC golf cart batteries are the least expensive quality deep-cycle battery. And converting from two 12 VDC (in parallel) to two 6 VDC (in series) is easy. If you are looking for high-end batteries and cost is not that critical, AGM batteries such as Lifeline Battery are maintenance free, accept a charge faster than wet cells, have a much lower self discharge rate, etc. http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/ Brett Wolfe

First, an RV refrigerator, whether Dometic or Norcold, does not use a freon-based coolant. The "coolant" is a mixture of ammonia, rust inhibitor and water. And you are correct, not your neighbor. It is OPERATION of the refrigerator out of level, not STORAGE, that can damage/clog the cooling unit. But, a quick call to Dometic (the number below) revealed that it is a good idea to LEVEL THE COACH FOR 24 HOURS AFTER BEING STORED OUT OF LEVEL BEFORE STARTING THE REFRIGERATOR! For confirmation: Dometic Tech line 1-888-867-4188 Without knowing how many or what kind of blocks you are using, I cannot address your driving on/off leveling blocks. Certainly the more substantial the blocks, the less likelihood of an issue. And any time you use leveling blocks, make sure the entire "footprint' of the tire (front) or both tires (rear) are supported or you can do tire damage. Brett Wolfe

And for those who store their coaches in areas with hight humidity and have 120 VAC available, a small house-type dehumidifier will cure/prevent the mold and mildew "musty smell" . Set the dehumidifier on the kitchen counter with the drain into the sink Just set humidistat at 45-50%. They use very little electricity, because once humidity is reduced, they run very little. We have used them for years on our sailboats and RV's here in humid south Texas. Check at Home Depot, Sears, etc for their smallest unit that allows you to select humidity setting. Brett Wolfe

While there are plenty of companies who will take your money for products to add to your black water tank, NONE will make the smell appetizing. And many are harmful to the environment, particularly to septic systems. The object is to have it vented such that the odors do NOT enter the coach. The "wind seeking" vents do work to better vent the tank out the roof vent-- creating a slight vacuum at the roof vent, such that odors are less likely to enter the coach. Are you sure the source of the odors you smell is the roof-- that is unusual. That is where you WANT that tank to vent (vs inside the coach). More common causes of odors in the coach are bad seal at toilet base or loss of water in the toilet bowl and broken or obstructed tank to roof vent. It could be loose at the tank end or have an insect nest at the roof end obstructing the proper venting of the tank. Brett Wolfe

You have already addressed the most common cause of lukewarm water, and that is a water heater bypass valve that is not completely closed. Also, check for any shower that could be turned on at the controls, and turned off at the head. That will allow hot/cold to mix in your system. When you do run the water heater, does it run the "normal" length of time to heat the water -- i.e., do you think the water is getting up to temperature in the tank but not getting to the faucets, or does the water heater shut off after too short of a run time? What brand/size water heater? Brett Wolfe

For an excellent factual discussion of the factors affecting performance and MPG, go to: https://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/287140/7/LEGT5364.pdf The document is "Understanding Coach (RV) Performance" and was written by Caterpillar Corp, but applies equally well to all engines, as physics is physics.

In a 30 amp male to 50 amp female, the connections are: 30 amp neutral to 50 amp neutral. 30 amp ground to 50 amp ground. 30 amp single hot is tied to BOTH HOTS ON THE 50 AMP SIDE OF THE ADAPTER. So, both "sides" of your 50 amp cord and coach are hot. You just need to be careful not to exceed 30 amps total draw. This is a LOT less power than the TWO 50 amp hots (100 total) in a standard 50 amp circuit. Brett Wolfe