wolfe10

Thanks, Jim. I went back and edited the torque units to be Pound- Feet, not Foot-Pounds. Brett Wolfe

YES, the fuse on the incoming 120 VAC line IS internal. Send me a message with what e-mail address you want the information on fuse sent to. Here is an excerpt from the pdf: Checking the Fuse F2 F2 is a ¼-amp fuse located inside the inverter/charger on the AC circuit board (the smaller of the two circuit boards). Subjecting the inverter to an over-voltage on the AC INPUT can cause fuse F2 to fail. If this occurs, the inverter/charger will invert, but it will no longer charge or transfer when AC power is applied to the AC INPUT. The F2 fuse can be tested without removing it from the inverter/charger. • Disconnect AC input wires from the inverter/charger (Charger AC input on Freedom 25 and Fleet Power 2500). Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the hot and neutral AC INPUT wires. The resistance should measure from 150–170 ohms, indicating the fuse has not blown. Brett Wolfe

Wayne, Your peak torque RPM is 1,500. So you would not want to operate your engine below 1,500 RPM except at light throttle (and the Allison transmission should be programmed to do this). And 1,650-1700 RPM would likely give your best MPG. The larger the engine, the lower the Peak Torque RPM. Example Caterpillar C7 Peak Torque RPM is 1,440. C15 Peak Torque (2050 Pound- Feet by the way) is at 1,200 RPM. Brett Wolfe

Cathe, Each engine has an RPM at which it produces Peak Torque. It will be stated in the engine manufacturer's sales as well as technical sheets on the engine. Some Aflas have Caterpillar C7's, some Cummins ISL's. I don't know which you have. But here is the sheet on the Caterpillar C7: Caterpillar C7 Spec Sheet This sheet lists Torque as 860-950 Pound- Feet (depending on how the engine is speced) AT 1,440 RPM. SO 1,440 RPM IS PEAK TORQUE RPM. Peak torque is significant, as it also determines the LOWEST SAFE OPERATING RPM FOR THAT ENGINE at anything but light throttle. And for most modern diesel engines, operating 150-200 RPM above that RPM will generally give the best MPG.

As the Toad Wiring Options in my post above shows, there are basically three "accepted" ways to wire a toad: With the use of diodes (to prevent back feeding the toad's electrical system) and the toad's own rear lights. With a totally separate bulb installed in the toad's rear light fixtures. With magnetic or permanently installed totally separate light fixture. The advantage of the latter two is that there can be no question about vehicle warranty-- you did NOT cut into the toad's electrical system. Brett Wolfe

Fiberglass is one of the easiest materials to repair/reinforce. Look for shops that do fiberglass boat repair. They have a LOT of experience in cutting out damaged areas and building up systematically larger layers of glass and resin. They can even make it stronger than it was originally. It may also be something you do yourself. There are plenty of "how to" fiberglass sources. Here is one: West System Fiberglass Repair Brett Wolfe

Bob, Do NOT add 5 PSI except to the MINIMUM PSI from your tire manufacturers inflation chart BASED ON YOUR ACTUAL WEIGHT. Until you weigh it, go by the PSI recommendations on the GVWR plate by the driver's area. BUT, that could be 10 or more PSI different than what your actual weight calls for. This Michelin document makes good reading irrespective of what brand of tires you have: Michelin RV Tire Guide I am starting with tires, as over or under inflation can cause poor handling AND poor ride. So it is a good starting point. And one thing I will answer right up front. This question is often asked: If the manufacturer know that there were devices that would make handling or ride better, why aren't they on the coach to start with. Like all aspects of the RV, there are trade-offs between cost and benefits/features. Those same decisions are made on choices of interior fabrics, appliances, etc. What that means is that you CAN improve handling by spending money where, perhaps better (and more expensive) components are available. As far as sway, an after market heavier rear sway bar WILL help. A sway bar has NO effect on ride or handling as long as both wheel positions on an axle are on the same plane (i.e. they do not add to ride stiffness). BUT if one wheel drops in a hole or hits a bump, the sway bar will exert a LOT of force to keep the wheels in the same plane-- i.e. REDUCE SWAY. For one wheel to be on a different plane from the other, there will have to be enough force to momentarely bend the forged steel sway bar from its "rest position". Here is one example from Roadmaster Suspension solutions for your chassis: F53 Rear Sway Bar All RV's, to some degree exhibit loose or vague steering when compared with cars. But some of that can be controlled. One of the chief causes of this on a chassis with long leaf spring suspensions is the side to side "play" that can be induced in those long springs and spring shackles. Track bars (aka Panhard Rods) eliminate side to side play between chassis and axles while allowing full vertical travel. Check, but your 2006 will likely have a FRONT track bar standard from the factory. If not, one can be added. Aftermarket track bars are available for the rear. Brett Wolfe

I do have an electronic copy of the troubleshooting guide for the Freedom 458 as well as sources for the fuse if it is bad. I would be happy to e-mail it to you. Click on "Wolfe10" just above my photo. Click on "Send Message". Send me your e-mail address if you want these pdf documents. Brett Wolfe

Here is another P30 AutoPark discussion right here on the FMCA Forum with contact information for our resident expert. P30 AutoPark Thread Brett Wolfe

Please post what coach, what converter (if you know) etc-- there a LOT of different ways they can be wired. And for communication sake, you have a HOUSE battery and a CHASSIS battery. Do you have a mechanical or solenoid-based battery disconnect switch? Make sure it is ON. Brett Wolfe

You have a fuse on the incoming 120 VAC line. Have you checked that? Xantrex technical assistance: Tel: 408 987-6030On edit 8/10/13, the online owners manual link has changed-- thanks, Rich for finding this. Please see post this date below for current (at least it works as of this date) owners manual. When I go over to my coach this afternoon, I will see if I have a troubleshooting guide for your inverter/charger. Brett Wolfe

Bob, Let's start out by determining what you want to improve about your coach's ride and/or handling. There are some good aftermarket suspension devices out there, but none are a "Silver Bullet" . Areyou wanting to reduce side to side sway? Are you wanting to make steering more precise/reduce need to constantly correct with steering wheel, particularly in cross winds? Reduce porpoising? Soften ride? Other? And lets start with the basics: Have you weighed it-- individual wheel positions is best, axle weights as bare minimum? What are they and what are your GAWR (from plaque near driver's area)? Is your tire pressure based on your tire manufacturer's recommendation for your actual weight (plus perhaps 5 PSI as a safety reserve)? How many miles on it? The more information you post, the more FACTS we can give you and the less "infomercials" you will get. Brett Wolfe

Jim, You do NOT want to do that -- you would be "back feeding" your toad's electrical system. Here is link to accepted methods of wiring coach to toad vehicle: Toad Wiring Options Also, on the positive wire from coach battery to toad battery, make sure you have a fuse at the connection to BOTH batteries. And you may want to use a RELAY controlled by "ignition on" to charge the toad battery so it is not charging even when you are not driving. Having that charge wire hot all the time would accelerate discharge of coach chassis battery when dry camping if toad is still connected. Brett Wolfe

Captain Ron, Clarity and testing (test strip for SCA, pH and Freeze Point) will NOT, repeat NOT give you enough information to risk your engine and cooling system with worn out coolant. Go with Cummins recommendations for change interval with standard "low silicate coolant for diesels with SCA" . If you go to an extended life coolant follow the coolant manufacturer's recommendations. Radiators and engines are a LOT more expensive than coolant! If your present coolant is clear, tests OK with the test strips, there are no deposits visible in the radiator AND YOU KNOW WHAT TYPE OF COOLANT IS IN THERE AND STICK WITH THAT CHEMISTRY, you can get away with a single flush with distilled water, and not need to use any cleaner, etc. If you are switching coolant chemistries-- like going from standard "low silicate coolant for diesels with SCA" to an extended life (OAT-based) coolant that has longer change interval and does NOT require testing and addition of SCA's you will need to use a cooling system cleaner. BTW, changing it yourself is not that difficult, though it is time consuming. If you are interested, let me know and I can post details. Brett Wolfe

RV Dump Station Listing Enjoy the convention.

Larry, I ASSUME you have an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). If so, both shore power and generator output come through the SAME wire from ATS to the 120 VAC breaker box. So unless ALL things that run off one of the hot legs from the generator are inoperative there should be NO difference between shore and generator IF the problem is somewhere in the coach. If nothing powered by one of the hots works-- likely one A/C would not work as well as some of the outlets, it would indicate: one of the on-generator breakers tripped, a wiring problem between generator and ATS or problem in the generator itself. Oh, and a lot of coaches have a second GFI in a basement. Do you have any outlets in a basement? Please let us know what you find. Brett Wolfe

What circuits blew-- in your coach, or the CG breaker? If in coach, did the 120 VAC breakers trip or what? Have you checked your GFI(s). Push test and then re-set and see if this "fixes" it. If one of the GFI's or GFI powered outlets is outside, check carefully for water intrusion causing a ground fault. Brett Wolfe

Unless you have the ability to download stored codes, what ARE the (reasonable) options? Brett Wolfe

Would love to see that statement in writing from Cummins! Running below PEAK TORQUE RPM at more than light throttle can damage a diesel. What is your peak torque RPM? I would be surprised if your Allison ECU is programmed to allow you to be able to operate the engine below peak torque RPM anyway. Brett Wolfe

What material is the bottom of the compartment made of?

I have to say, it concerns me more than a little for someone to ask for legal advice on a forum. Most issues like this are far more complex than can competently be dealt with in this manner. It would concern me MUCH MORE for them to rely on that advice to make decisions that could have far-reaching legal consequences for them and their family. In dialogs such as this it is very difficult for the advice-givers to have all the facts (let's face it many of the facts are confidential and you sure don't want them out on the Internet) AND also difficult for the advice-seeker to know the credentials of those giving the advice. So PLEASE, look over the advice given-- and I am sure there will be some good advice given, BUT VERIFY THAT THE ADVICE WITH AN ATTORNEY TO MAKE SURE IT IS WHAT IS BEST FOR YOU. Brett Wolfe

Please tell us more about your problem: What rig do you have? Does the slow fill/fuel and foam backing out happen when tank mostly empty, or just when mostly full? At all fill locations, or does angle of coach affect this? Are there any SAGS in either the FILL or VENT lines from side of coach to fuel tank? Does it still do this if you use the jacks to RAISE the fuel fill side of the coach? Brett Wolfe

There are indeed many products that WILL clean out black and gray tanks. But the problem with many is that the better their cleaning properties, the more harmful they are to the toilet seals, plastic tanks and dump valve seals. Before using anything past detergent and water softener, be sure to check with your toilet and dump valve manufacturer. Brett Wolfe

Are the inoperative items 120 VAC or 12 VDC? If 120 VAC, reset the GFI. If 12 VDC, hopefully someone with a wiring schematic for your coach will respond. The good news here is that the more things that don't work, the more likely it is to be at or near the fuse block. Brett Wolfe

Betty, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. To better help others answer your question, what year Jetta do you have? Is it an automatic or manual transmission? Brett Wolfe