wolfe10

Jim, You do NOT want to do that -- you would be "back feeding" your toad's electrical system. Here is link to accepted methods of wiring coach to toad vehicle: Toad Wiring Options Also, on the positive wire from coach battery to toad battery, make sure you have a fuse at the connection to BOTH batteries. And you may want to use a RELAY controlled by "ignition on" to charge the toad battery so it is not charging even when you are not driving. Having that charge wire hot all the time would accelerate discharge of coach chassis battery when dry camping if toad is still connected. Brett Wolfe

Captain Ron, Clarity and testing (test strip for SCA, pH and Freeze Point) will NOT, repeat NOT give you enough information to risk your engine and cooling system with worn out coolant. Go with Cummins recommendations for change interval with standard "low silicate coolant for diesels with SCA" . If you go to an extended life coolant follow the coolant manufacturer's recommendations. Radiators and engines are a LOT more expensive than coolant! If your present coolant is clear, tests OK with the test strips, there are no deposits visible in the radiator AND YOU KNOW WHAT TYPE OF COOLANT IS IN THERE AND STICK WITH THAT CHEMISTRY, you can get away with a single flush with distilled water, and not need to use any cleaner, etc. If you are switching coolant chemistries-- like going from standard "low silicate coolant for diesels with SCA" to an extended life (OAT-based) coolant that has longer change interval and does NOT require testing and addition of SCA's you will need to use a cooling system cleaner. BTW, changing it yourself is not that difficult, though it is time consuming. If you are interested, let me know and I can post details. Brett Wolfe

RV Dump Station Listing Enjoy the convention.

Larry, I ASSUME you have an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). If so, both shore power and generator output come through the SAME wire from ATS to the 120 VAC breaker box. So unless ALL things that run off one of the hot legs from the generator are inoperative there should be NO difference between shore and generator IF the problem is somewhere in the coach. If nothing powered by one of the hots works-- likely one A/C would not work as well as some of the outlets, it would indicate: one of the on-generator breakers tripped, a wiring problem between generator and ATS or problem in the generator itself. Oh, and a lot of coaches have a second GFI in a basement. Do you have any outlets in a basement? Please let us know what you find. Brett Wolfe

What circuits blew-- in your coach, or the CG breaker? If in coach, did the 120 VAC breakers trip or what? Have you checked your GFI(s). Push test and then re-set and see if this "fixes" it. If one of the GFI's or GFI powered outlets is outside, check carefully for water intrusion causing a ground fault. Brett Wolfe

Unless you have the ability to download stored codes, what ARE the (reasonable) options? Brett Wolfe

Would love to see that statement in writing from Cummins! Running below PEAK TORQUE RPM at more than light throttle can damage a diesel. What is your peak torque RPM? I would be surprised if your Allison ECU is programmed to allow you to be able to operate the engine below peak torque RPM anyway. Brett Wolfe

What material is the bottom of the compartment made of?

I have to say, it concerns me more than a little for someone to ask for legal advice on a forum. Most issues like this are far more complex than can competently be dealt with in this manner. It would concern me MUCH MORE for them to rely on that advice to make decisions that could have far-reaching legal consequences for them and their family. In dialogs such as this it is very difficult for the advice-givers to have all the facts (let's face it many of the facts are confidential and you sure don't want them out on the Internet) AND also difficult for the advice-seeker to know the credentials of those giving the advice. So PLEASE, look over the advice given-- and I am sure there will be some good advice given, BUT VERIFY THAT THE ADVICE WITH AN ATTORNEY TO MAKE SURE IT IS WHAT IS BEST FOR YOU. Brett Wolfe

Please tell us more about your problem: What rig do you have? Does the slow fill/fuel and foam backing out happen when tank mostly empty, or just when mostly full? At all fill locations, or does angle of coach affect this? Are there any SAGS in either the FILL or VENT lines from side of coach to fuel tank? Does it still do this if you use the jacks to RAISE the fuel fill side of the coach? Brett Wolfe

There are indeed many products that WILL clean out black and gray tanks. But the problem with many is that the better their cleaning properties, the more harmful they are to the toilet seals, plastic tanks and dump valve seals. Before using anything past detergent and water softener, be sure to check with your toilet and dump valve manufacturer. Brett Wolfe

Are the inoperative items 120 VAC or 12 VDC? If 120 VAC, reset the GFI. If 12 VDC, hopefully someone with a wiring schematic for your coach will respond. The good news here is that the more things that don't work, the more likely it is to be at or near the fuse block. Brett Wolfe

Betty, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. To better help others answer your question, what year Jetta do you have? Is it an automatic or manual transmission? Brett Wolfe

Tireman9, Many of you who have attended my RV Maintenance Seminars or read my posts over the last 10+ years and know how picky I can be about maintenance, may be surprised by this post -- oh, well. Keeping black water level monitors reading properly is, for many of us, one of the few areas where we no longer HAVE to have it working properly. Though you can clean the sensors, on many monitor systems calibrate them, etc, as a long-time RV'er once told me: "After you KNOW that you will NEVER fill the black tank before filling the gray (assuming you are not camping with a whole girl scout troop), stop worrying about it." Actually, on our coach, while dry camping, I will run out of potable water LONG before filling either gray or black tanks. So, I DO monitor black along with gray and potable; but no longer get excited when the black doesn't read accurately. Brett Wolfe P.S. Yes you can go with external tank sensors and calibrate them and get reasonably accurate readings, but it may be one of those things that you just stop and ask WHY!

Don, No, I was certainly not suggesting that you consider the Focus (or any other toad for that matter). What I was suggesting is that you can see exactly what is involved in installing a base plate on any toad of your choice using that link. I found the Roadmaster website/pdf files to be a good tool to use when shopping for a toad-- we just went through the process, buying a new car yesterday, retiring our old toad of 9 years. You can see how much modification is needed and also evaluate whether this is a project you want to tackle or one you want a pro to handle. I LIKE to have access to the information before making a final decision on a toad. Brett Wolfe

Agree completely with Jack. There have been a fair number of failed PC boards-- some for minor "repairable" issues, and some for more complex issues that will require board replacement. BUT, according to a long-time Dometic factory technical rep, there have also been a large number of good boards replaced due to short-cuts in the diagnostic procedure. I.E. when sent back to the factory under warranty, they test good. So, as suggested, do the preliminary (read FREE) stuff first, THEN consider more expensive failed components. Brett Wolfe

A couple of companies you might contact: Motion Windows Hehr A company that repairs them: Sun Coast Designers Brett Wolfe

Roadmaster makes it easy to view the complete installation instructions on-line. Go to: Roadmaster Base Plate Applicaton Guide Go down to: "Roadmaster Tow Bar Mounting Brackets and Braking Systems " and enter your vehicle data. After your vehicle data is entered, at the bottom of the page will be the appropriate base plate. Click on that part number and you will get a pdf with the complete installation instructions. Example-- here is the one for our new Ford Focus: Roadmaster2008 Ford Focus base plate installation guide Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I guess I can lead off on this one, as we were one of the very first to upgrade to the PRXB PacBrake. I installed ours 6/30/04. It works exactly as advertised. The extra valve allows full back pressure to be achieved at much lower RPM than with a standard exhaust brake. I think their advertising says 30% stronger at lower RPM and it feels like every bit of that. Would not go back to a "regular" brake. Brett Wolfe

Travis, A TOTALLY separate issue is making sure your RV is in mechanically top condition, as mountain driving IS more stressful on machinery. On your gas coach: 1. Change brake fluid if over 2 years old in humid area or 3 in desert climate. Brake fluid is supposed to absorb moisture to keep brake components from rusting. As it does, fluid boiling point goes from just under 500 degrees F to 286 degrees F. BIG DIFFERENCE. 2. If the coach has not been used much and has floating caliper brakes, clean AND LUBE THE SLIDE PINS. These can rust in place and cause major problems. 3. Same as most vehicles-- air and fuel filter, spark plugs if they are due to be changed, etc. 4. Correct tire pressure. Determine correct PSI from YOUR ACTUAL WHEEL POSITION OR AXLE WEIGHTS. 5. Check suspension components for wear-- shocks, sway bar bushings, bell crank (P30, not Ford), etc. It is sure easier to discover and fix problems BEFORE you leave home than on the side of the road. Please ask questions so we can help you with the "Learning Curve". Brett Wolfe

Travis, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The same principals apply to ALL heavy vehicles-- gas, diesel, 18 wheeler, RV. When descending use a low enough gear (even first) such at your speed is in equilibrium-- you are not speeding up or slowing down. You do NOT want to use your brake pedal to control speed,-- use it ONLY to slow you down enough to "grab a lower gear". Your equilibrium speed will be faster than a loaded 18 wheeler and slower than an empty one== straight physics. Until you get the hang of how to control your vehicle's speed, play it conservative. Sure easier to up-shift a gear than to have to use those truck run-away lanes! Climbing, keep an eye on engine temperature. Run RPM's at or above peak TORQUE RPM for your engine but below peak HP RPM for reasonable performance without excessive fuel consumption. ENJOY YOUR TRIP. 100% of us had a "first trip in the mountains"! Brett Wolfe

Let me take a minute and perhaps summarize the responses here. As on many (OK MOST) "opinion" questions, people recommend what they use and are happy with-- its only natural. From responses here and on other sites, virtually all appear happy with their tow bar/base plate choices. Said another way, no bad apples out there. Since a large part of choosing base plates/tow bars is the quality of installation, working with someone in your area who you trust to do the installation is an important decision-making criteria. THEIR advice is as important to you as whether WE are happy with our choice. BTW, we use the Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain and are very pleased with it and the company behind it. 100,000 plus miles towing with this coach. Brett Wolfe

FMCA.com has Towing Guides -- FMCA Towing Guide Index -- for the last 10 years available TO MEMBERS or FMC magazine subscribers right here on this Web site. At the top of this page or the FMCA.com homepage, under the Motorhoming tab or the FMC magazine tab you will find the Towing link. The Towing Guides will bring you to articles covering vehicle towing for any of the last 10 years. Remco's Web site Remco Towing Guide is another good guide. Brett Wolfe

Again I want to thank Roger for the many he has helped with AutoPark problems and also explain why (as unusual as it sounds) contacting him is preferred over trying to post symptoms and hope for correct answers here. Because there are so many variations in the AutoPark system, both by year models and even by different GVWR packages in the same year model, what works for one may not be relevant for the very next person with a problem. This has lead to as much confusion as clarity on other forums where Roger has volunteered his help. That is why Roger went to the trouble to set up the special e-mail specifically so he could continue to volunteer his time and considerable diagnostic skills to helping others. So, please forgive the lack of symptom/diagnostics/repairs posted here. Brett Wolfe

Does anyone have experience with either Verizon or AT&T wireless broadband in Mexico and Canada? Mexico particularly. Thanks, Dianne Wolfe