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wolfe10

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Posts posted by wolfe10


  1. jbarringer,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    First thing I would do is check voltage at the headlights and compare that with voltage at the chassis battery. Do this with the engine running so you get a true picture of voltage while driving.

    If over 1/2 a volt lower at the lights, we can suggest a solution that will cost less than $20.


  2. Su

    42 minutes ago, DBenoit said:

    I read somewhere that if you have a gas generator it will stall out if the coach has less than a 1/4 tank so you don't get stranded.

    Well I have less than 1/4 and the genny stalls out. Maybe get out for a ride this weekend and fill er up then see how the genny runs before getting a fuel pump and filter.

    Anyone heard about that 1/4 tank thingy?

    Sure,

    A safety measure to insure that your engine doesn't run out of gas/fail to start because the generator left the tank bone dry.


  3. 11 hours ago, RayIN said:

    Eliminate any guesswork, use this wire size calculator to determine what size/gauge extension cord to use.

    Also, It bears repeating-again. DO NOT PLUG INTO A 3-PRONG CLOTHES DRYER OUTLET! Exciting and expensive things happen very quickly.

    Yes residential 30 amp outlets are 240 VAC, not 120.  Those two hots instead of one will LET ALL THE SMOKE OUT of your RV appliances.


  4. Couple of questions:

    How far from outlet to your 30 amp shore power cord?

    How much load do you want to be able to run-- as an example, if only battery charger and refrigerator, size is much less important than if you plan to run a roof A/C?

    Do they really have a 30 amp RV-style outlet where you can plug in or is it a "regular outlet" that is either 15 or (less likely 20)? A 30 amp RV outlet is VERY different from a house 30 amp.  The RV 30 has ONE hot, a neutral and a ground.  A house 30 has TWO hots!


  5. Consider rotating those two front tires with wear patterns to ONE side in back (the side with better tires which is usually the left rear as they are not curbed, don't run over as much road debris, etc) and move those good rear tires to the front.


  6. OK, ASSUME this is a Ford F53 chassis.

    Two thing that need to be checked-- by an "old fashion" tire shop capable of working on you size tires/wheels:

    First thing is to check RUN-OUT on the front tires.  You can balance an "oval shaped tire" until the cows come home, but it will still cause shake. If over .035" run-out, fix it. If they don't have a dial indicator/run--out gauge, you definitely have the wrong shop.

    Next is to check tire balance-- best to spin balance them on the rig-- that insures that not only tire and wheel, but also hub, brake disk, etc are in balance.

    After doing this, let us know how it drives.

    Thanks.

     


  7. wakury,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Please tell us what motorhome you have and where you are located.

    Also, under what conditions the wheel shakes:

    All the time

    Only at certain speeds-- if so what speeds

    Only when braking

    Other

     

    What is age and condition of the front tires-- any unusual wear patterns?

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