QuiGonJohn

Hi Brett, the manual I have, (which is a section in a large manual covering most of the RV systems), mentions the PM you talk about, they tell you to do a list of things, but no instructions on how to do them or good diagrams on where to find the given parts. In fact, they say to have a dealer or Norcold Service Center do it.

I have a Norcold Model N611LT. On our trip home yesterday we noticed the gas and on lights flashing about once every second. I read the bit of a manual I have and it said that indicates the burner did not light and the unit should have shut the gas valve. I thought it was going to be a big problem. When I got home and parked, I tried again and it lit. After 5 minutes or so I shut it off. Then later in the evening I tried again and it would not light, flashing lights. Then I shut it off, waited a minute or so, turned it on, and it did light. Again, after 5 minutes or so, I shut it off. Anyone have an idea what may be going on with my unit? We will be dry camping, w/o electric in Sept. and need to be able to rely of the refrigerator. Thanks!

I had a similar problem one time. I believe it was due to a combination of several issues. First, the plug on the end of my shore power cable had a problem, the thick outer rubber casing was loose from the plug casing, so you could see into the inside of the plug casing. Also, I found out later, that the extension cord from my house, that I had the RV plugged into, had little nicks and I actually got a tingle stowing that in my garage, (it was still plugged into the wall when I wrapped it up). Finally, I had been sanitizing my fresh water tank and the fill is just above my hot water heater and a lot of water overflowed onto that. Next day, when that had dried, the problem was gone. But I still taped up the extension cord and put a new plug with the casing and all, on my shore power cable. Hasn't happened again since.

I have the PFJ Card, My RV Rewards, not the one that is also a credit card and tied to Good Sam's. The discount is 2 cents a gallon on that, not 3, (for gasoline anyway). Now the Pilot's I fueled at with it, I did not notice if the original price was Credit or Cash, but I think they were the same. After swiping my RV Loyalty card, the price went down 2 cents a gallon. I also do the Winn-Dixie Fuel Perks and just gassed up the RV last Sat, June 30th getting $1 off per gallon, on the first 20 Gallons, (the limit each time you use it), my price $2.29 a gallon for regular. BTW, why has gas started back up AGAIN??? I noticed the Cumberland Farms near my house went from $3.21 on Monday and today it is $3.33, (with a stop at $3.24 Wed until this morning).

Henry, glad to hear this, I bought my used coach in April and after a month of comparing various plans and companies, I also went with Wholesale Warranties.net. Good to hear I probably made a good choice. I have the 100 deductible, but I can live with that as long as the major things are covered. My warranty with them is their top, (nearly bumper-to-bumper).

I was told by a mechanic that he felt 5W20 was too thin, didn't provide enough lubrication, especially in the hot climate here in South Florida. Just odd, as most of my life I have always heard people talk about using different weights of oils, depending on your climate.

I have a Class C Aspect. I have this hitch mounted unit for my bikes, which still leaves the hitch free to tow a vehicle, if we wanted to. We currently do not tow a vehicle and do not plan to in the foreseeable future. The bikes at least give us some other form of transportation. http://www.amazon.co...y/dp/B000CCFFR4 They also make a 4 bike one, BRS400. I like the ease of putting the bikes onto or off of this rack, vs. the car rack we have for our Sonata. Plus, most car racks use straps, which can eventually break. This one uses no straps, (neither the rubber stretch kind that hold the bike directly or the cloth web kind that hold the rack).

I have a 2006 Winnebago Aspect on the Ford E-450 cutaway chassis with the V10 gas engine. The prior owner's last used 5W20 and this is what is on the cap on the engine. Should I just use this weight or would the fact I live in South Florida, (Ft Lauderdale area), make another weight choice more optimal? Also, where can I get specs on the amount of oil I will need and the oil filter. Although I have a lot of the manuals, I do not have the Chassis Owner's Manual. Thanks!

We just got an analog to digital converter and tried it out. First off, the wires in my RV seem to be wired strange. I thought the ANT IN on the converter would go to the small Winegard plate near the TV and then I have another coax which goes into the paneling beside my TV, so I thought that would go to ANT OUT (OUT to TV). Would not work. Finally got it working by also connecting through a SATELLITE coax panel with 3 leads, trying various combinations. But here are the really weird things. 1. The small Winegard plate near the TV has a coax jack and a 12v Cig Lighter connection as well as a push button. If I leave the push button off, I can get some stations after having let the Converter scan. But if I turn it on, (I believe this turns on the Amplification Feature of the antenna, then it all goes to snowy. 2. At home, we got a some stations, at the campground this weekend we could get nothing and on the way home, parked at a truck stop, I turned it on and got a few stations but they kept freezing. Could the result at the campground and truck stop just be because we were too far away, or are they antenna problems. We have a Winegard Sensar Model RV2001A Antenna Head, (at least as far as I can determine from my book and the fact that it is amplified). Will this antenna work for Digital or do I need something else. Thanks!

You can also use the CONTACT location on their website and they will tell you where the nearest location you can get all 4 wheels done. I emailed them about 2 weeks ago, as I was going to the SW Florida area and they emailed back that the only "nearby" location was Cocoa Beach. Didn't help for me, but others may have better luck.

So I got my RV weighed this past Friday, Front Axle: 3670 (wife and I onboard in the cab) and Rear Axle: 8160. So as I understand I would use 1835 as the load weight for the front and 2040 as the load weight for each tire on the rear (duals). Now when I go to the charts, Goodyear and Firestone both are the same. For the front I have either 1790 or 1940 listed on the Single line. Which should I start with? For the rear I have either 1995 or 2150 listed on the Dual line. Which should I start with? Then whichever I go with I know I should take that pressure and add 5 lbs. Does that sound right?

Well on a normal CAT Scale they will probably only let you weigh once. The one I was one, and I'm sure they are pretty similar, I would say the forward most segment was about 10 feet long and the next segment was about 15 feet long. I positioned my RV so that both the front axle and the rear axle were roughly centered, front to back and left to right on the first 2 segments. There were many more segments, for large tractor/trailer rigs, but of course these were N/A for me. So the result was I had the axle weights for the Front Axle and the Rear Axle. As others have said, sometimes you can get them to let you pull the RV so one half, right or left, is on at a time. This would give you one reading with Right Front and Right Rear, then reposition and do it again for Left Front and Left Rear. But you'd have to catch a friendly scale operator and the ones at this Pilot were not.

I have a Class C Aspect. I have this hitch mounted unit for my bikes, which still leaves the hitch free to tow a vehicle. http://www.amazon.com/Surco-BRS300-Slide-Drawbar-Capacity/dp/B000CCFFR4 They also make a 4 bike one, BRS400. I like the ease of putting the bikes onto or off of this rack, vs. the car rack we have for our Sonata. Plus, most car racks use straps, which can eventually break. This one uses no straps, (neither the rubber stretch kind that hold the bike directly or the cloth web kind that hold the rack).

I just had my RV weighed Friday, CAT Scale at a Pilot. Even with My RV Rewards I had to pay $9.50. Not a big deal, but then I passed a Weigh Station on the highway and that got me wondering if one can get there RV weighed there, (and whether there is a fee for that or not). One time, many years ago, I got my U-Haul truck with car in tow weighed at a Virginia Weigh Station. Has anyone used a state weigh station?

Yes it is odd. I am the one who posted that text on 6/20 at 10:06 pm, this was after fiskld's post of 6/16 12:53am, but somehow that post's text got changed to what I wrote. And I did not do anything other than post like any normal user here. Guess it's the Twilight Zone.

Like others have said, there are so many variables to consider as to the size of the RV that it's no wonder they make so many different kinds. We have a 27 ft Class C, and it is perfect for us. We love the U-shaped dinette, (probably the biggest feature that made us choose this one). The next biggest feature is having a bed always there (in the aft starboard corner of the RV), as opposed to having to take down a table, as another class C we looked at required. But we also like that the bed is stuffed away in the corner, and space isn't taking up a full bedroom, as yet another class C we saw. We only do short trips, mostly weekends or a couple weeks vacation. We also chose this size because neither me or my wife would really want to drive anything bigger. Also, when we retire, we plan to travel about the same, just that we may go on longer trips, 4 to 8 weeks max. We do not plan to full-time. If we did, then I would agree with others that we might want something larger.

I actually did this. I bought this Slime brand pump, checked the hose carefully and then bought a 1/4" barb with 1/4" npt fitting on it. I cut off their end, pushed the barb fitting on and clamped it. Then connected one side of the quick connect. Now I can plug in either the standard tire chuck or put the air dryer on first, then the tire chuck. I think it will work out nicely.

You would think that it would be fairly simple to have a scale with 4 large scale areas, 2 front, L & R and 2 rear, L & R. And some sort of mechanism to lock one side or the other to take weights of each side. Then give you a print out of each position, as well as each axle and of course the total.

I will be going to a Pilot Travel Center Friday, that has CAT Scales and plan to get my Class C weighed. Do scales like that usually have the capability to do 4 point or only front and rear axles?

We have a Class C, and have Adco (or equiv) solid white windshield cover, which also covers the windows on the doors. I notice it keeps the cab much cooler. So far, we only use it when it is parked at home, between outings. But in Sept, we will be at the Grand Canyon for a week and I plan to put the cover on it while parked. Considering TireMan's testing with wheel covers and White vs. Black, (he found white keeps the tire cooler underneath), I would think the same would hold true with the windshield cover.

Thanks. I looked these up and it seems the dual foot refers to the schrader head being both ways (or two-sided). What are your feelings regarding the type of read mechanism, there basically seem to be 3. 1. Center metal or plastic rod pops out a given distance. 2. Mechanical dial read out 3. Digital read out.

Quick question on tire gauges. I got a really nice digital one by Husky, seems to be very accurate. But due to the wheel cover on my front, and the position of the valve stem on my outer rears, (stem is on the inside), I cannot use this for any of my RV tires, except the inner dualie. I will need one that the tip goes at an angle, between 90 and 45 degrees. The old standard gauge where the center part pops out when you put it on comes to mind. I know to avoid the "cheap" ones of those, but what do you all think of a good quality one of those? Or do you recommend something else? I was always leery of how accurate any of that type are, seems to much variation is possible in how much pressure it will take to make the center piece move a given distance, (if it's dirty, has some kind of film that either aids or impedes it's ability to slide), would cause different readings.

Well I went back to Walmart and opened that Slime Pump. It does not have standard 1/4" fittings on the air hose. They are smaller at both ends, and the business end is a screw on tire chock and is not removable from the hose. So I guess I need to keep looking for one to take along in the RV. Too bad, I really wanted to get this one. Good price, compact, nice carry bag, but I really wanted to be able to snap connect in the air dryer when using it on the RV tires. On the road, other uses, such as bikes, cars I probably would not use the air dryer.

How is Coach Net on roadside Tire Repair Services?. I have emergency service through Better World Club, (got it last summer, did not have an RV then so could not go with Coach Net). I had been with AAA for many years, but the cost just kept going up to much. I was planning to switch from BWC to CoachNet when it expires next month, so was wondering how their service is.

No response to my emails from Nexen, but in one post Tireman said for a given size, they're pretty much the same, so I found a chart for Goodyears. If I'm unable to weigh each tire individually, then do I take the axle weight and divide by 2 for the front and use the single and divide by 4 for the rear and use the dual? It would seem so. Also, when one gets their RV weighed for each tire, do they usually weigh each tire of the dualies separately or just the position, RR or LR and divide that by 2?