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Everything posted by stevesandidge@yahoo.com

  1. has it ever worked before? if yes, then it may be clogged with trash/calcium etc. if it never worked, i would think that maybe they didn't complete the hookups? can you see the black tank? on the opposite side from the drain is the flush. it may have a vacum breaker in the line that may have "stuck" or sumtin like that. steve
  2. Get under your slide and start checking the wires going out with the slide. Look for frayed wires, melted insulation. When it moves, there must be a wire either grounding out on the slide frame, or hitting another wire when it moves. Steve
  3. i know the solar panel was to charge the batteries, the ones i have replaced came from the the mfg of the a/c's and connect to the DC circuit behind the lower ac ceiling assy. if this is one you installed yourself, then i am sure you can find a replacement pretty easy. steve
  4. its gonna depend on the make of the air condintioner. get that info and any rv sevice center/mobile tech will be able to help you. steve
  5. hey brett, what do you think of blue ox's new cockpit adjustable steering control? from my tech point of view, its easy to install, not nearly as expensive as the "other" adjustable one. as an owner, i think i may like it as well. steve
  6. read a post from a chemical eng. AND a rv'er, that suggested using the unscented bleach, 1 cup per 15 gal of capacity. and doing all the stuff you all are talking about. but then drain and add 1 cup white vinegar per 15 gal cap and repeating, thus turning the clorine to salt water and thus neautralizing the bleach. drain, breif flush and you are ready fer da road. i am gonna try it, so i will let ya know how it goes. steve ps. Semper Fi msg!
  7. My dealer said these readings were due to the tank shape but after crawling under this just does not seem reasonable. Suggestions? NEVER believe a dealer! steve
  8. Replace them both while you are at it. Make sure you have enough oil in the reservoir if you think it is the oil switch, The two together are like 25 bucks. Steve
  9. i suspect there is a vacum breaker located somwhere above where the line comes back down and gos to the tank. they usually put em in the wall slightly above the toilet water level. the only way to get to it i have found is to remove the wall panel where you think it is, then you can get at it to replace it. hope this helps steve
  10. yeah i have the good govenor too and even use it as a tech when i do mobile service, as ya never know what you are gonna find in the campgrounds. i always test park pedestals with it before i hook up my mh. i even made a test rig that lets me check the 50 amp plug, by isolating the hots to each recep and then use the govenor to check out the connections. steve
  11. AMEN Brett. can we like tatoo that on folks hands? put a decal on thier shore power cords? and a good website as usually tom. steve
  12. hey ret welcome! ask q's post your trips, and have fun! Semper Fi! steve
  13. glad ya got er fixed up top! i will say camping worlds rv university was a great place to learn the trade. i was very impressed by ed sweetman and ralph fluery and jesse rossem, the instructors there. too bad they closed it though. i wonder if jack was a graduate of it. steve
  14. do y ou have a whole house filter? is the backflow preventer on the back of your city water connection ok? my first bet would be a whole house filter. if it has a bypass, try that n see what ya get, it not replace the filter cartridge. steve
  15. hey gonzo, yeah i think i can understand it. i think it would be good to clarify that you need to do the process twice, 1st with bleach, then with the same amount of vinegar a 2nd time. that right? pretty good info, thanks steve
  16. good info top, and spot on too! steve
  17. somewhere on this new rig is a data plate that will give you the weights and abilities of this rig, even the towing. mine is on the wall behind the drivers door. steve
  18. leave it on, just like at your house, it'll turn on n off when it needs too. top wayne is right fire up the gas when you are gonna be useing aLOT of hot water, but other wise leave the electric on. now , just remember to shut it off if you are gonna drain the water heater, or it will melt the element. steve
  19. i'm working on a black tank flush in a rig that the owner did not use a pressure regulater when he hooked up the flush hose. after about3 min he heard a load pop followed by rushing water. the water got his power converter too of course as it was mounted under where the leak occured. when i started in to it, i had to take the panel off the wall behind the toilet, and there it was a plastic backflow valve to keep the black tank from overflowing back out the rinse hose, it had come apart at the seams and all this ensued. the bad part, or worese for him, was his continued service plan will not pay for the repairs cus they were not covered in the policy. so if you use the blacktank rinse, it has the same resrtictions on pressure as the rest of your plumbing! i know i have been guilty of not using a press reducer on my tank flush as well, but not any more! steve sandidge camping world rv univ class 54 91 rambler imperial
  20. if you can see the back end of you slide out motor, if it is electrically drivin out, there may be a small lever roght on the end of the motor. move that lever the other direction and see if that will fix your problem. at any rate i recommend you cut a couple of 4x4's to use a travel locks while in transit steve sandidge camping world rv univ class 54 91 rambler imperial
  21. as the grandson of the culligan man here in ne tenn and sw va, se ky, i guess i better stick with the culligan system my grandfather had made. he took a full size tank with the pellets in it and had it cut down to about 3 ft tall. it uses the reverse osmosis with the salt/brine solution. it takes me about 30 min to "run the softner" and then we have wonderful clean tasting water no matter where we go. dad passed this down to me after he got a new system for his bluebird, its not culligan but it works well also and is easier for him to "run". steve sandidge camping world rv univ class 54 91 rambler imperial
  22. i have a easy out that fits inside the plastic plug, and can get one out in less that 10 min. the hacksaw thing is slow and hard to keep out of the threds, cut into those and it is hard to get it to stop leaking. you can get a set of pipe easyouts at harbor freight tool stores for less that 10 bucks. steve sandidge camping world rv univ class 54 91 holiday rambler imperial
  23. i have seen these relays go bad also, once i found the problem i put a set of jumper cables across the posts to get the customer home. he had rented the unit and was in town for the race here at bristol. this paticualr relay was going to cost him about 100 bucks, plus more of my time on this unit. steve sandidge camping world rv univ class 54 91 holiday rambler imperial
  24. i am a rvia certified rv tech, working for a small dealership in northeast tn. i recently had to replace 2 springs on a hwh jack. i started by hooking up the inboard spring and the connecting rodup to the back of the mount, hooked the outboard spring to the connecting rod and used a pry bar in the bottom loop of the outboard spring, prying against the spring retaing stud(mount), just slipped the spring onto the stud and wha la was done. no i have to admit i called hwh cus it looked impossible, but really was pretty easy. you do need to use caution, these springs are pretty strong, so do not lay where it can get loose and hit you! i used a piece of wire to hold the jack in the up position while i worked on it. hope this helps! steve sandidge by an rv'er for rv'ers rvia cert tech
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