sgureasko

Some years ago, I was at the Livingston, Montana, fairgrounds and saw a mid '80's Pace Arrow motor home. The one with the pointy nose and chrome automobile bumpers. This guy had 4 bumper jacks leveling and holding the MH up. Like you said, they are out there.........

After you move the motorhome out of the garage, do you see tire marks where you where parked? That is the rubber is leaching into the concrete. You should park either on wood or plastic. In other words, keep the tires off the concrete. Now to your other question, and I'm not trying to be a smart aleck here, but, unless you have xray vision you won't see the dry rot, until it reaches the end of it's life and starts showing on the outside, as it starts on the inside first. Plus, how many curbs and potholes have you hit and how bad did you hit them. Remember, you can't look at the inside of the tire and see if there is any damage, unless it is removed and inspected. Please people, you can't put a value on your life. Tires are to cheap to chance your life and the lives of your loved ones.

Let me explain it this way. How much life insurance do you have, and how much do you value your life and lives of your loved ones. 10 yr old tires are an accident waiting to happen. Have you ever hit a curb or a bad pothole? As the tireman said, you can't see inside the tires. Have you ever seen what a tire does when it blows out? You need to look at some videos of blowouts and the aftermath. On the wonderlodge forum, we recommend 7 years MAX and it is on the newer made Michelins. Older tires like yours should have been replaced in a 5 year period. Now to DOT, you are private vehicle, just like your car. DOT regulates commercial vehicles. You will only be stopped(by the police) if you do something wrong in traffic, just like your car. Please, for your safety and those around you, change all your tires, and when you buy new ones, check the date code on them. Buy the newest ones you can find or order. You don't want ones that have been sitting in a warehouse somewhere for a year or more.

I also have a tag that lifts, and it make a big difference in turning radius. Use it all the time in campgrounds.

Everyone has giving you good advice. You should also consider Cracker Barrel restaurants for overnighting. Most have mentioned Passport America, that is half off pricing for overnighting in certain RV parks. Good company!

I'm with mpierce on that, and mine has over 230k on the original drivetrain. Plus, I know that ernie put over 300k on one of his.

Yes, and they are great. For the price difference and only keeping them for about 6 years, they work. Am on the second set.

Try dumping the tag when making a turn(at low speeds), in a campground, and you will find that you can make a tighter turn, without the usual scrubbing of the tire that you can actually see on the ground.

Listen to Erniee. He does this for a living, in RV's only. He did ours and it's great.

I keep reading about the improved fuel economy with DEF, and have one question concerning that. How much does the DEF fluid cost and how far or how much does it cost when entered into the "fuel economy" factor. And for those that are thinking about this, I have a '90 Wonderlodge with an 8V92 DD engine, with over 230,000 miles on it. And for younger generation, it's a two stroke that is turbo and supercharged.

I also had LEO, but in La. and had the same experience with weight enforcement.

On mine, a '90 Wanderlodge, I drop the suspension, including the tag, then deploy the jacks. If the ground is uneven, the jacks will still work. One word of caution, be sure the drive wheels stay in contact with the ground, as that is your only parking brake contact. Your coach may move if those wheels are off the ground and you will damage something, like the jacks or frame.

Most DMV's are like that. Motor homes are a twilight zone for them. My state allows you to drive with no special licensing. I know Texas and California require a non commercial class B (for over 26000lbs.). There have been many discussions on various forums about this. Even most owners don't know if their state requires it or not. Dealerships are really in the dark, and probably don't care. To them, it's sell, sell, sell.

You also need to look at towing capacity, and what kind of towed vehicle do you or are you going to own. Just adding to your thought process.

Check that the new turbo is indeed operating. Pull the air intake hose off at the turbo and make sure it is free to turn. Do this with engine off. You can spin the blades by hand. Also, make sure your exhaust clamps are tight and the exhaust is not cracked or leaking anywhere, as this can contribute to your problem.