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What do the sensors look like? There is fiberglass tool with a soft rubber tip that is made to remove and install the cap on inside valve stems. Available at larger truck stops Got mine at Petro. Perhaps it would fit over the sensor to remove or replace it. I can't think of the name but it is easy to recognize. I have never used TPMs. Probably would not have made the trip to the receiver when on a 53 foot trailer behind an extended hood "large car." At 135,000 or more miles a year the batteries might have broke me.

You can also call FMCA for a very pleasant explanation of how to go about it including registering your credit card. Pay for any labor and parts separately at the dealer the day of your installation. Will save you some$$. It did for me.

The super singles started showing up on tractor trailers quite awhile back. They have not gained wide spread acceptance. The big fleets have thousands of tractors and trailers and if it was a good idea, the fleet managers would have speced them on most of their rigs by now. It has not happened. You see them , but not very often. I wouldn't touch'em because of cost to convert and inability to limp to a tire center or home. I did not know about bearing load considerations . Another reason to stay away

I ran Durabright Alcoas on my Western Star and they were never bothered by the brightener (low dose acid) used by Blue Beacon. I may be wrong but I believe that the wheel finish was an anodized coating. If you don't want it used there or any other wash service tell the guy that is in charge of the crew. No Brightener. My rims cleaned up with cars wash and a pressure washer. The rims on our Phaeton require elbow grease to keep looking nice, and you certainly don't want any cleaner with even light concentrations of acidic chemicals in it if you want to keep them shiny.

The truck that I was driving had close to 300,000 when I started out on my first trip. It was a Big Cam 400 Cummins. When I called the owner from the Cummins shop to give him the bad$$$ news, he admitted that he had no knowledge of low silicate antifreeze and supplemental coolant additives. It was his only rig. I have known truckers that cut corners figuring that they would trade before the bad stuff starts happening. Brett is right to point out the need to follow the protocol. A diesel is a diesel, regardless of what it powers down the road.

A temporary fix might be water proof tape. In the electrical section of Home Depot you should be able to find Scotch Brand Electricians Tape. It is black, thick, and stretchable. Waterproof and removable when you go for permanent fix. Comes in a box for around $10 a roll. I carry it in our coach. Might help in the short run.

There are many helpful responders on this forum. Someone will be with you soon. What engine do you have?

I wish that I could help, but I can only say for sure that US191 is good road , I have been on it in a tractor trailer several times over the years. I don't think that I would have been welcome on the "Scenic Routes" heading to Lake Powell. When you are done there, are you heading into South Western Colorado? Lot's to see there.

I may try that too if I can get it loose without messing up. Maybe a 90 degree turn to the outside.

Brett is right on as usual. If you have a sleeved or cylinder liner style engine, the coolant is in direct contact with the liner. Without the proper additives and coolant the liners will soon fall prey to pitting. I once took a job with a small owner that knew nothing about this. On my first trip from NJ to Phoenix things started to fall apart by the time I got past Nashville Tenn. The liners were so badly pitted, that combustion pressurized the cooling system. The cab heater core started to leak, coolant was being forced out of the overflow, and I had to stop every 30 miles or so to add water. The owner asked me to try to get the rig to Cummins in Memphis. I made it but it was above and beyond the call of duty. An inframe overhaul was performed while I rested in a motel for two nights. A low mileage RV owner night get away with the wrong coolant, but someone will pay the price eventually.

Be careful how you use the low clearance section. Sometimes Highways run together.

I prefer the Motor Carrier Road Atlas as has been previously mentioned. I have used it for years (retired otr trucker). It is available at any truck stop.

I looked for a late model used Outback with a manual transmission. Not a popular option so I settled for a 2012 Forrester with a manual. I was told by a salesperson that manuals are on the way out for most models.

On the steep downgrades often encountered in Colorado and other western states, I observe the truck speed limit. Typically 25mph.

I was just plain wrong! Heard some things in my part of PA (mostly Cat people here). Read some things on the net possibly by people with axes to grind, and although it happened many years ago, had a lot of trouble with a brand new big cam 400 Cummins in my first purchased Peterbilt. Left a foul taste, but I need to move on. Hey I am used to being wrong. My DW tells me all of the time. Thanks for the kind words.

Just a thought. Could you put a spring loaded interrupt switch in line? If temps are OK you could stop the fan for just a little bit while you are moving in a dusty area. Our rear radiator unit makes quite a cloud in an unpaved area but the fan is always on. My concern is not as much cosmetic as it is mixing with oily residue on the radiator. I can still charge up a hill with very little increase in coolant temp and I want to keep it that way.

I can see that I am on the wrong side of this discussion. I apologize.

I believe I read that earlier models had some problems. Guess that I am just a Detroit and Cat lover, but if I ever get to trade up, a Cummins will be in my future.

Easy enough to do that/ lift the handle into the locked upright position???

But is it more robust?

IMHO. More valves are there to help the engine builders conform to increasingly onerous EPA regulations. That may be in part why a legendary manufacturer (Caterpillar) chose to leave that part of their business. The more parts added to an engine valve train increases the complexity and possible failure. I don't think adding more moving parts to an engine helps it to be more robust. Just a guess on my part.

Our Dometic has a Low Amnient Temperature switch. If not used, does that use 12vdc to warm the door jams? I thought that it might be hot gas circulating. Bet using 12volts would tire batteries out quickly. We do have an Icemaker in ours.

Another thought would be a ClassC. There are some nice ones on the used market. The power train can be worked on in far more places than a Class A. Especially a diesel pusher. I would probably downsize if I found myself alone. Hope that never happens.

We had a Dometic three way refrigerator in our first class A. We never used the 12 volt heat source. I heard that even while underway the current draw could put a strain on house batteries. If you accidentally chose that mode while dry camping, I am sure you would be out of juice quickly. We used the propane mode while underway or dry camping, and the 120vac when in an RV park.

I love your determination to remain an RV'er. I agree with previous posts. Fix the rough spots done by someone you can trust. Mechanics like that are out there. You will have a home on wheels that you know, and after the repairs you will get away with money saved compared to buying a "new to you" rv. You have True Grit!