jbrunson

Clearly the best money spent to date- at least for me... do not delay... lots of driver fatigue gone just by adding these... simple to install...

Ok guys... after much deliberation, I added Centramatic balances to all wheels..... huge huge difference... better ride and drives 100% better.... I just got back from a long Florida weekend, stress level from driving hit an all time low.... $100 a wheel and worth every penny...

Just got back from the local welder..... got this cheater bar/ extender/ monster torque wrench extension welded together ... a piece of round 9/16" Bethlehem steel 52 inches long is quite a manly appurtenance! This thing could seriously hurt someone...thank God for electric hacksaws.... judging from the looks during discussions at local truck shops, I really got my doubts about how many 22.5" rims are actually torqued....pictures to come...

OK so I have the torque multiplier and the 1/2" torque wrench, Brett, did the link to the multiplier work? I need to remove front wheel to do other work.

so I purchased one of these last year and it removes the nuts beautifully: https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Multiplier-Wrench-Saving-Remover/dp/B00U4O9SAK/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1476986618&sr=1-5&keywords=Tool+Torque+Multiplier+Socket+Wrench+Set+with+Case%2C I also have your typical click style 1/2" drive torque wrench the specs indicate the following " Trans-speed ratio: 1:58 " Is this properly interpreted 1 ft-lb input = 58 ft-lb out???

I am searching for a economical method to torque my lug nuts to 475 ft. lbs.. i have one of the Chinese torque multipliers and it removes the nuts with the greatest of ease... is my solution as simple as torquing with this device? If so, how do I determine what value to torque to with this device in-line? 90 revolutions on the handle are required for one revolution of the nut. What is everyone else doing?

Definitely replace the thermostat. Don't know about Cummins, but the Cat hotline tech told me that thermostats kill more motorhome diesel engines than all other things combined... new one was $18 for me.

I have a 96 beaver Monterey... Magnum Blue Streak hydraulic over hydraulic disc brakes... google the number on the caliper and you will get several sources... they are Bendix Calipers with twin 4" pistons...driver and passenger sides are different part numbers... rebuilt, loaded (with pads) calipers are about $100 each... for a little more $$$, NAPA can have you one tomorrow morning on their delivery truck...

Obviously extremely common... first shop I stopped at had a replacement. The $40 I paid was well worth the lack of shipping and the lesson I got with the purchase. It is for the quick release of the exhaust brake.

For the record... Lots of data here http://kareninthewoods-kareninthewoods.blogspot.com/2012/06/motorhome-repair-rebuilding-pac-brake.html

I checked every diagram in the support library... None had the Humphrey valve... Further research seems to indicate this thing is for a faster release of the brake.... I disassembled the valve... New o ring and diaphragm and it is rebuilt... $7.00.. I just can't get the **** thing before my long weekend... Stupid job is interfering with my RV hobby.

We have traced our engine bay air leak to a contraption on the inlet of the pacbrake air cylinder called a "Humphrey SQE-2" .... Mister Google faithfully reports this thing as a super quick exhaust valve.... It is leaking so much air that the brake will not close...(cover it with your thumb and the brake faithfully actuates) Questions: What is this for? Can I run without it? That is just get an elbow and remove it.... Beginning to wonder if this exhaust is actually manufactured by pacbrake... please help!

if fuel pump is not electric....then 90% of the time this is fuel pump. pump uses a diaphragm and check valves to use the crankcase pressure fluctuations to pump fuel. diaphragm ruptures and fuel leaks into crank case. replacement here... https://flipmfg.com/products/fuel-pump-2-pack-fits-cummins-onan-generator-149-1982-149-1544-149-2191 might be better to consider upgrading to electric pump.... onan has changed newer ones to electric

Cost of Use???? ALL of it!

http://www.evanstempcon.com/index.php possible parts source

standard practice for me... it will take the whole 2 hours to cool off so plug in the night before departure and cool the coach down with roof ac.... i also run a small fan placed on the dash pointed at driver.... another pound of R-134 might get the system going... you have came this far... it was on sale for $4.99 a can at Walmart last week.

kay.... I think i am being overcharged.... ($200/ year) if you don't mind, what do you pay for your bus?

Since I still have to work for money, about twice a month we spend the weekend somewhere nice... I have the basement loaded with tools and usually spend at least one day doing "Projects"... minor issues abound...

Like I previously stated, I really have no clue how well/ poor my coach drives because it is the only one I ever driven. My confidence level is somewhat low... I have only exceeded 70 mph one time... I stop often and look, checking tire temps etc... I don't know if the pops and creaks I hear as the chassis moves are normal... I have about 1500 miles of experience now. It would be great to increase my driving comfort level ... I fancy myself as doing this to relax... I know there is no magic wand to instantly do this... and foolishly throwing money at the thing is easily accomplished... if you have direct experience... any remarks about the "Personality" of this chassis would be awesome... problems to watch for? current focus is on cheap things like tire pressure and weight... /john

The Magnum chassis supported Beaver and Safari Class A motorhomes. It is a custom chassis built by Safari Motor Coach (I think) .... the point is, this thing is an oddball... it is not not produced by the normal automotive industry but one specifically designed for a class A RV... these springs would probably be easy to fit... but I am gonna need someone who knows more about chassis than I for sure....

not that easy for me....they do not list my make/ model chassis on the website....still wondering if there is an inside sales contact or something that might have application knowledge.

I don't seem to fit in either category ~ our '96 Beaver Monterey is a 36' DP with a Magnum Blue Streak chassis (a.k.a. leaf springs). Since this is the only class a mh I have ever driven, honestly I haven't a clue if it drives good or not... that said, does anyone know if this modification has been done to my chassis?? Who at the OEM for this product would know?

http://www.landlinemag.com/Magazine/2005/Oct/BottomLine/two-or-one.aspx anybody tried this yet??? claims of more weight capacity, better ride, higher rollover speeds, and less rolling resistance.......... snake oil?

Kay, with this sort of coverage, how do you navigate the Alabama automobile insurance audit system that is in place to be sure you have insurance associated with the MH tag number?