moonwink

Don't give up. Register using the link I provided. I can't remember if you get access right away but I think you do - if not the moderators will authorize your membership quickly. Post your question in whatever area you find yourself and the moderators will move it if it's not right. I follow messages there using the "activev topics" button. You'll find lots of help there.

GAry/Jo, Becoming a member of "Trek Talks" forum is free and that's where you find answers to all your Trek questions no matter the year it was built. All you need do is request: which means accepting their "User Agreement" and filling out the form that follows then click the SUBMIT button. Use this link: http://www.nwtfc.com/forum/register.asp?rand=2553652&sectionid=2 There is a membership fee for the Safari International Chapter of FMCA and maybe that's where you sent money. Give the link a try. Don

Newbie, The moderators at Trek Tracks aren't the most helpful I've ever run across. Instead of givning you a link or direction to previously posted infromation, they'll tell you it's there somewhere and you'll need to go hunt for it somewhere in the labryth of catagories they've created. I guess they aren't doing their job of accepting member requests in a timely manner either. Overall, the userbase is very helpful and friendly though and it's a great source of information - if you can find it on your own. The way it's setup, you won't be notified of any responses to your calls for help, you'll need to login and check if anyone has offered any help.

Newbie, Try asking your question over at "Trek Tracks" http://www.nwtfc.com/forum/login.asp?rand=241968&target=default.asp You'll first need to register (it's free) with them first but all they talk about is Treks and I'm sure you'll get knowledgeable answers to your questions about Treks there. I've got a 2004 Trek 31SBD and love it but it's a lot different than yours so I'll refrain from trying to answer your question. FMCA has a Safari International Chapter you may want to look into joining also.

Motion Windows - A Division of Peninsula Glass Company Director Of Sales Jeff Kemp 6005 NE 121st Ave Vancouver, WA 98682 Office: 360-892-2029 ext. 204 Fax: 360-213-1274 jeff@motionwindows.com I talked to the folks from Motion Glass a few years ago at an FMCA International - I think it was in Perry. They had samples of their work and it looked great. I recommended to a friend of ours who had fogged over SEGI windows he check them out. They made a new windows for him for the side windows in front moving the divider that had been blocking his view at eye level up high enough he and his wife can now see out without bending down. They're as happy as can be with their new windows. I wish I could get our MH out that way and have them do our also.

We've got a 2009 HHR LT2 equipped for towing 4 down. The only thing required to tow it is unlocking the steering wheel by putting the key in the ACC position, transmission in neutral and pull one fuze - the manual says not to get over 65mph. We towed it from St Louis to Florida City at the tip of Florida without starting or disconnecting it - no problems. Came home from St. Petersburg the same way - almost none stop. That was a couple of years ago and no problems so far. We've also got a 1998 Olds Cutlass (same a Malibu but different decals). We've towed it from St Louis to Palm Springs, CA using the same procedure described above except I have to pull two fuses - or just flip a switch to disconnect them. Same 65 mph speed limitation which isn't a problem for us. If we what to leave a campground that we're only overnighting in, disconnecting/re-connecting isn't a problem. If we don't use the car, it stays put and I pull away in the morning without doing anything like starting it to let it run for 5 minutes before shifting through the gears, etc... We've been all over with that car and never had any transmission problems. We like the Cutlass because its bigger than the HHR. If you don't have to have a new car, there are plenty older pre-2010 Malibu's and other GM cars that share the Malibu design available you should consider. We've gotten between 25-33 mpg with the Cutlass depending on how much tread is left on the tires - new tires lowered our mileage. The weight is still pretty good at around 3300 lbs. I use the BlueOx removable pin type bracket and can hardly see the bracket with the pins removed. I use Ready-Brake to assist stopping it. The whole process start to finish connecting up or disconnecting is only a couple of minutes. I use a Protect-a-Tow to keep rocks from beating-up my towed cars which is quick to hookup and stores in a small 6" x 24" case when not in use. I've also got a couple of old Aerostar vans that weigh in at 3800 lbs and I've got equipped one of them for towing with a driveshaft disconnect. I like to tow the Aerostar because of the extra storage. (Bicycles are harder to steal when they're stored inside and in south Florida, that's a big plus.) I hope I can use it this winter to get out of St Louis.

The facts in this case are as plain as anything ever was. GM marketed many of their cars as towable and it stated so in the owner's manual. After several failures they have decided to change their policy on towing and issue an updated page to paste over the original page of the owner's manual. The updated page and cover letter sent to the owners states GM will not cover any damages caused by towing the vehicle 4 down. To me this is a clear breach of contract. One of the deciding factors in purchasing the vehicle was it's capability of being towed 4 down and now the truth is, it can't be towed that way without risking damage to it. The only compensation GM has offered these owners is reimbursement after they purchase a tow dolly. Having used a tow dolly in the past, I found it nothing more than 500 lbs of dead weight to pull around and a lot of extra time to get ready to tow my dinghy. I was a lot younger then, but dragging that thing out of the way so I could back into my campsite was a real PITA. I would never consider using one again. Believe it or not - facts are facts and history will show that GM is trying to screw these owners.

retiredblade said: "You failed to tell us what company you switched to?" My intent wasn't to try to sell the company I ended up going with but to encourage everyone to start calling around and shop their insurance among the companies that advertise in the FMCA magazine (to start with) and any other RV related media they frequent. All the brokers that offer Progressive should give you the same quote if they're quoting the same coverage. Rates vary widely by garaging address and full/part time usage. Everybody needs to do their own homework. There's a lot to learn at these websites for starters - I make no recommendations here: AON RV Insurance vs Auto Insurance Progressive RV Insurance Coverage Options Specialty RV Insurance Policies vs. Typical Auto Policies RV Insurance Considerations - RV Dreams.com RV / Motor Home Insurance Explained

I found this information in a post from years ago. It may save you some money on a replacement motor for your Kwikee step. KWIKEE STEP MOTOR REPLACEMENT SERIES 32-with photos http://www.rv.net/forum/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20310852 "I called a large RV parts dealer in Texas, and told him that I needed a motor for a 32 series Kwikee step. He said that I could not get just a motor that I would have to buy the complete kit that included the controller, gear box and motor as a matched kit. The cost was $209 for the kit. I told him that I had heard that the motor was a window lift motor. He said that he had not heard that and that he doubted that information. I did research and found that by looking on the NAPA internet site they had photos of the lift motors. I found that a 1986-1995 Ford Taurus left front window lift motor matched my motor. NAPA part # BK655-1395 $63.99 I ordered my motor from Auto-Zone Manufactured by Dorman part# 742-206. This has a lifetime Warranty and was $49.99." Read the many pages of the topic at RV.net, there is more than one design for the steps and the motors are different. All the information you need to repair your steps is in that topic. Several complained they needed to tap on their motor to get it working - just before it quit for go. Lots of good information about Kwikee step motors in that topic.

I've used the Ready Brake for years and find it works great. I installed it all myself. Routing the cable for the brakes isn't bad. Finding the switched wire for the brakes to light the LED on the Motorhome dash is probably harder. I tow either an Aerostar or an Olds Cutlass (similar to a Chevy Malibu). The Ready Brake receiver incorporates a 2" drop when inserted into the original receiver. I purchased a drop receiver adapter but it turned out I didn't need it. The BlueOx tow bar is almost level when I'm on level ground. The harder you brake the more your towed vehicle brakes are applied. I've been very pleased with my purchase. Hooking up or disconnecting from start to finish couldn't be any faster or easier.

There's a vast difference between automobile insurance and RV insurance. When I bought our MH (in Nov 2001), I called the agent that handled my car and told him to insure the MH - big mistake! A year later, Allstate wanted another $200 more to renew. I started doing some research - calling all the insurance companies that advertise in the FMCA magazine. I got an education along the way and found out I was overpaying for the coverage I was getting and it wasn't covering as much as it should. I switched to a company that gave me all the RV coverage I could ask for and still saved $500 the first year and every year since. I still got total lost replacement for the first 5 years and purchase price coverage since then. Luckily, I figure my payments have just about kept pace with depreciation so we wouldn't be too bad off anyway but, I really like knowing we have the purchase price coverage as well as several other very RV specific coverages and it's saved us a lot of money along the way. Soon afterward, I saved a bunch more by switching my cars away from Allstate also - and then my homeowner's policy to finish things off. One of the best moves I ever made. I suggest others do the same research I did. I've only had one claim - when I turned sharply in a gas station to get to a pump at 90 degrees to the store front and the swing-out clipped a parked car (my bad). They fixed the damage on the car and my motorhome (the diminishing deductible took care of my share) without any problems. Now I'm two years (1/2 way) into building up my diminishing deductible again.

Brett Wolfe has given you excellent advice (as he always does - you can take his knowledgeable advice as gospel - he knows his subjects) about what is the correct pressure to carry in you tires. The tire manufacturer's literature will always be the final word on proper inflation pressures. In order to use the inflation charts, you MUST know how much weight is being carried by the tires. 1. To find that out, you MUST have your rig weighed - preferably at each corner to find the weight each tire or set of tires is carrying. 2. Then find your tire in the inflation chart where it crosses the weight the tires are carrying - listed there is the correct pressure for your application. Running the maximum pressure will wear the center ribs of the tire prematurely and result in a harsh ride.

PIPEWRENCHGRIP, I would think you'd be able to adapt your Roadmaster Shield easily enough to your new vehicle. If you can't, I've tried the Coastline cover but don't favor it because it ought to be put on a "clean" - dry vehicle to prevent the grime and gravel from digging into the paint. It's impossible to secure the cover so it won't move and the movement of a dirty cover will scratch the paint. It took two people to stretch the cover over the car and several minutes to secure the straps. If the cover gets wet, it should be removed to dry as soon as possible or the paint could be damaged. Just make sure to wash and dry the car and the cover is dry before use. I don't favor the Shields because they're so cumbersome and heavy. I'd rather not deal with all that. I settled on the "Protect-a-Tow" because it gives good coverage, is quick and easy to attach and stores away in a small bag less than 1/4 the size and only a couple pounds compared to the Coastline Cover that weighs about 20 lbs (ours only covers the front end and windshield. Nothing is perfect. You just need to decide which system feels right for you. I like being able to pull up the car to the back of the motorhome and be ready to drive off within 5 minutes having attached the towbar, brakes, wiring, safety cables and Protect-a-Tow.

We bought an HHR last summer for it's economy (25-30mpg), looks, weight (just over 3100 lbs) and ease of towing. We've got an automatic and the owner's manual says it can be towed any distance as long as your speed doesn't exceed 65 mph. In order to keep the battery from running down, fuse #8 must be pulled because the ignition must be ON to release the steering wheel. I find it very easy to pull the fuse and replace it before disconnecting and starting. I bought one of the little fuse pullers from Advance Auto Parts to make it even easier. Another excellant choice for towing 4 down is the Chevy Malibu. It weighs a little more than the HHR but has more interior room and gets just as good or better gas mileage (up to 33mpg). It has the same 65mph restriction and I think you'll need to pull a fuse with it also. Neither one register miles while towing. My other car is a '98 Olds Cutlass (a Malibu with an Oldsmobile emblem). Both the HHR and Cutlass are equiped to tow and we switch off now and then. The Cutlass now has over 122,xxx miles on it and still drives great. I forget their back there while going down the highway - good thing I've got the camera to remind me!

We used a Protect-A-Tow between the motorhome and the HHR on the way down to Florida and want to become to booster for it. It provides great protection for the towed vehicle, is quick (about a minute or two) to install and remove, is very light and rolls up into a small bag when not in use. The mud flap/skirt on the back of a motorhome will pickup rocks and debris and propel them at the towed. Unless you protect your towed vehicle with a full bra (takes two people and several minutes to install - the vehicle must be cleaned first or the grime will be rubbed into the paint) or a dam in front of the towed (heavy and bulky) your towed vehicle will show signs of damage from road debris. Protect-A-Tow is a commercial member of FMCA based in Canada. Protect-A-Tow Blue-Ox sells a similar product - actually, it looks like an exact copy. Download a PDF copy of the installation manual for the "Underskirt"

I tried the Coastline Bra for our '98 Cutlass. I found it required two people several minutes to stretch it over the car. The car needs to be clean and dry before you put the bra on. It also takes up a lot of room when not in use. For those 3 reasons, I'm not a fan of them. The various designs of mudflaps across the back of motorhomes may stop some debris from being thrown on your towed vehicle. BUT, they also create a low pressure that picks-up all sorts of stuff off the road and allows it to be thrown on you towed vehicle. Get up close to a big truck and the same thing happens. Mudflaps - either solid or brushes are almost useless. The Roadmaster "Guardian" is heavy and more cumbersome than I'd like to deal with and it's bulky to store. I see they now offer a "Tow Defender" to complement the Guardian. It's probably worthwhile. Protect Your Towed Vehicle and RV Against Dings and Rock Chips. I recently purchased the "Protect-A-Tow" before coming to Florida just after Christmas and it seems to be the thing I've been looking for. It mounts under the towbar on eyebolts across the rear of the motorhome and front of the towed vehicle using snap hooks. Installation & removal is quick and easy. It's very light and stores in a small bag about a 1/4 of the size of the bra. It stops everything from bouncing up behind the motorhome from side to side. That said, nothing is perfect but, I'm going to stick with and recommend the Protect-A-Tow - $223 delivered (from Canada). A very similar product is the Blue-Ox Underskirt pn.BX88165. You can download the installation instructions in PDF format at this link: Blue-Ox Underskirt Installation Instructions - virtually identical to the Protect-A-Tow Both companies are commercial members of FMCA.

I have used the Ready Brake for many years without incident. It's easy and quick to connect and disconnect. Braking is smooth. It's design is simple and trouble free. An LED wired into the towed vehicle's brakes lights to let you know the pedal is being depressed. The harder you brake, the more pressure is applied to the towed vehicle's braking system. I've got two vehicles equipped and ready to pull - one an Aerostar and the other an Olds Cutlass (similar to a Malibu). After connecting the safety cables and electrical cable for the brake lights, two small braided cables are attached between the loops on the Ready Brake mechanism on the hitch and the loops on the towed vehicle. One is the main operating cable fastened around the brake pedal through a sheath to the front bumper/grill and the other is a safety cable with a little slack in it which runs through a device that allows pulling it out but prevents it from retracting - this is the brake-away cable which will bring the car to a halt in the event the towed vehicle is separated from the MH. I'm very satisfied with the Ready Brake system.

I wanted to warn anyone using the Remco driveshaft disconnect to avoid using WD-40 to lubricate it. Use only a spray that won't leave a residue - use something like a good spray silicone instead. WD-40 leaves a waxy residue (bees' wax) that will make the shifter hard to move if not impossible to move using the pull knob. WD-40 is best suited for coating the blade of your shovel to keep it from rusting. Don't use it on any mechanical or electrical equipment that needs move except for a brush-hog or something like that. There are many other great lubricates available that won't leave a sticky residue. (If you've never used P-B Blaster to free a rusted or frozen screw, bolt, hinge, etc. Give it a try! It's the best stuff I've ever used for loosening old rusty bolts.)