moonwink

You're asking for a lot while not giving us a clue as to what RV (I'm guessing it's an RV) you're having a problem with. Many of us put that information in our signature but at least tell us what it is you're having trouble with and I'm sure you'll get a helpful answer. Year, Brand, Model??

After being a Sprint customer for many years, I switched to T-Mobile for awhile. The T-Mobile coverage left a lot to be desired in our home area and I switched to Verizon. For years I sat around the campfire listening to lots of people rave about the service they experienced with Verizon. My experience hasn't been stellar. It's been okay but I run over my 15Gb unlimited data plan in about 10 days. I can still get my work done while throttled but it's a thorn in my side and is false advertising to claim you're selling an unlimited plan with limits. I've purchased my phones off eBay so I'm not under contract and ready to switch whenever the urge strikes me and that may be soon. The terms of my plan changed dramatically after I agreed to it - that never happened to me before. I believe they're all crooks taking us to the cleaners with overpriced services and under preforming networks. I've haven't tried AT&T mobile phones in almost 20 years but I had to deal with their Asian customer support staff for over 3 hours over the loss of U-Vision service at my church. It only took them a week to send someone out to restore the phone and internet service and patted themselves on the back for being so prompt. I won't put myself in position to go through that again. The pie in the sky talk about how wonderful 5G will be won't live up to the hype for many years to come. Mobile providers aren't in the habit of restructuring their networks overnight.

You can try sending an email to Mailto: dan@sprint.com That email goes to the staff in the CEO's office and they'll contact you to see if anything can be done. At least that used to be a good address. Instead of trying to connect with someone that can help by working through the interactive voice response systems meant to discourage callers, using that email address will have them contacting you. The staff in that office will either put you touch with some techs to help you or let you know what you can do on your end to fix your problem. No guarantees but it's worth a try. Good luck!

You're already a member of FMCA, why not shop your policy through their program? https://fmcarvinsurance.com/ It won't cost you anything but a few minutes of your time and probably will save you hundreds. It's a good practice to shop your policy every 5 years or so just to make sure what you're paying is reasonable. Your garaging address has more to do with your premium than just about anything else but your driving/accident record.

I've been using a ReadyBrake with a BlueOx towbar longer than I can remember. Completely satisfied! I can't count the number of towed I've used it on and all worked great. I love the ease and simplicity with which it connects and disconnects. The proportionality of the system is wonderful. The harder I brake, the harder the pull on the towed's brake pedal. I highly recommend it to others but many choose to pay big dollars for the active systems and fool around with gadgets of all types. I see a NSA booth now and then at the shows and always stop in to say hi and ask if I ought to be doing any maintenance on my old unit. There is none. As you can see by my signature, I'm dragging an Aerostar with a driveshaft disconnect which is also super easy to prepare for towing. Pull the knob to disconnect the driveshaft, leave the shifter in Park and turn the key to ACC so the steering wheel can turn - done.

Sorry to hear GM has once again pulled that trick with the Malibu. They did the same thing in 2011 and had to make sweet deals on the next year's models to avoid several law suits by people that bought the 2011 with an owner's manual that said it was towable but wasn't. The mailed out a page to all the owners in mid-summer to paste over the incorrect information in the manual. Since then you needed to make sure of the engine/transmission and body configuration to get one that's towable. It's a shame because the Malibu size, weight and seating capacity make it idea for use as a towed.

My favorite is the inertial system by Ready Brake by NSA: ReadyBrake™ Towed Vehicle Supplemental Brake System (2" Receiver Style) That's the system I've used for well over 30 years. It's proportional and connects quickly and simply. The more your towed pushes on the motorhome, the more braking force it exerts. As soon as you're pulling on the towed again, the brakes are released. I've got an LED on the dash connected to the brake light switch in the towed to let me know when the brakes are being applied. If my became serviceable tomorrow I'd buy another one to replace it without a second thought.

See what the Owner's Manual for your vehicle says about flat towing it. It should have a page or two about flat towing behind an RV.

GM pulled that same crap on the 2011 Malibu. Mid-year after several transmission failures, they sent out updated pages for the owner's manual to paste over the section on RV towing saying it was not towable. They bought several back when the owners who had purchased them for use as toweds got lawyers. In my book the Malibu is the perfect size (holds 5 people) and weight (about 3500#) for towing. If only GM would get their act together before they started printing owner's manuals and selling cars as towable when they're in fact not. If I were an engineer and knew the design of the transmission, it seems like I'd know if towing it 4 down would cause damage or not.

I'd bet the microwave is on a dedicated circuit all by itself. Check for power at the breaker and make sure the screw on the breaker and the neutral wires are tight.

I guess "williames" isn't going to come back and help us figure out what it is they're asking about. Like Brett, I searched and searched without finding any results for a product called "Forever Tape" or anything close. Moving on...

One of the least expensive brake systems is my favorite - ReadyBrake by NSA. It's truly proportional meaning, it applies the brakes according to how much braking is needed. It's quick and easy to connect/disconnect and there's no box to install/remove on the floor of the towed. BlueOx is my preferred towbar/brackets. I run a hidden wire to the back of my towed and use diodes to light the tail/stop/turn signal lights. I've been towing vehicles behind motorhomes for over 40 years and I've found that 4-down towing with the items I've listed here are the easiest and quickest way to get on the road. There's plenty of towbars on Craig's List in our area and once in awhile, the towed with all the accessories comes along.

I hope Lynda comes back to see the answers given and answers the questions asked so that the answers can be more specific to her MH. If she's got a Ford F-53 chassis, moving the links on the sway bar closer to the axle is the cheapest and quickest way to improve the stability of that chassis - replacing the bushings with the polyurethane type is a must afterwards because of the increased pressures on them. It made a world of difference on my MH and I highly recommend it. Before the change, I felt top heavy going around the slightest curves and afterwards, it rock solid.

I saw a discussion of this product recently on Trek Tracks. You might find it what you need to cover the Filon. https://www.epdmcoatings.com/

I've heard from others the prices and quality of the work done here are very good but this information is 9 years old. Navarro's in Los Algodones Mexico. Contact Navarro at 928-343-2750, or enrique@navarrosshop.com

I had the same problem with Sprint's hotspot in Florida City. I worked with the CEO's office for several weeks and got absolutely no where. My old 300 baud modem was faster than the throughput I was getting there. I was within a mile of 3 towers. I drove to the base of all three but service never improved. On the other hand, while parked a mile off AZ 95 two miles south of Quartzsite during RV Week when estimates of 100,000 or more RVs are spread out in the desert, I had adequate (not great) service with both Sprint and Verizon. I would connect to the PC in my church's office over TeamViewer and while slow, it worked. With the crowd around me, I felt fortunate. I can't say I thrilled with the service I receive from Verizon either though. I've got what was supposed to unlimited data that's throttled after about 10 days use each month. The original plan I signed up for allowed me to bank 20Gb of high speed data but Verizon changed those terms without so much as a hint they did so. In between Sprint and Verizon, I tried T-Mobile for a little over 6 months but I couldn't deal with the dead spots I kept running into. I really expected much better service from Verizon after listening to all the talk around the campfire but that hasn't been my experience. I haven't tried AT&T in the last 19 years but back then, CDMA was the standard for cell phones. Soon, they'll all be bragging about their 5G service. Don't believe a word they say and avoid their early implementations for a couple of years at least. Is there anyone out there that's completely happy with their cell phone and data service and the price they're paying? I'd like to hear from them.

EternaBond | RoofSeal White, EPDM RV and Roof Repair Tape - applied to a clean surface will stay flexible and last well over 15 years. https://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1021

My specialty is residential and commercial HVAC/R. What is the purpose of this vacuum pump talked about here? Is it used to provide vacuum for the dampers on the dash heating and air conditioning dampers on a diesel MH? Just curious. If that's its purpose, then there should be reservoir that once the pump took it down to 25 inches or so of mercury, would cycle off until it the vacuum rose to 15 inches. That should be plenty to make the dampers operate. If that's not the purpose, enlighten me please.

As I recall, I had to send a copy of my DD-214 for verification. Try this link: https://www.verizonwireless.com/discounts/military https://www.verizonwireless.com/support/employee-discount-validation-faqs/ Start here: https://www.verizonwireless.com/discount-program/?type=military# Active military service members, veterans or first responders, here’s what you need to know. For those who serve, we offer: Discounts on Go, Beyond or Above Unlimited plans. One line on your account? Save $15. Two lines? Save $35. Three or more lines? Your best savings are $40 on your account access fee.* or, a 15% discount off other eligible plan's monthly account service fee as well as up to a 25% discount off select accessories when purchased online through My Verizon. But first, you'll need to verify your service. As an active military, you can provide one of the following documents: Military-issued email, Military paystub, Military enlistment DD Form 4 or SCRA Status Report. Military veterans can provide one of the following documents: Your DD Form 214, Veteran's ID Card, Military Retiree Account Statement or VetRewards Card from Veterans Advantage. First responders can provide one of the following documents: Paystub, pension stub, volunteer ID or Statement of volunteer service. To register your existing account, click Existing Customers in the menu directly above and enter your Verizon mobile number in the My Verizon User ID or mobile number field to start. *The line-based tiered discount for the Go, Beyond or Above Unlimited plans applies if the account was activated with, or plan changed to, one of these plans 6/28/18 or later. For military, Any Go or Beyond Unlimited plans activated prior to 6/28/18 will receive a flat $15 account level access fee discount or for first responders, the plan will not qualify for a discount. At any time the plan can be changed to the new Go, Beyond or Above Unlimited plan to receive the line-based tiered discount.

I've been using an antenna like that one for a couple of years now and it's worked great! I found it in a thrift store and bought it on a whim. It has increased the signal strength enough so it's never been a problem. I'm not on the FMCA plan but I've got one of the Verizon so called BS "unlimited" plans that throttle you down to 600kbps at 15Gb. I've already blown through this month's allotment. When I bought into Verizon, I was told unlimited meant 20Gb that I could bank up to 20Gb if I didn't use all of it in any month. I only use the JetPack intermittently 9 months a year and depend on it over the 3 months we play snowbirds. I've never had a plan change after agreeing to it before Verizon. It seems they'll change terms whenever they feel like it without any notification or admitting to it. I do take advantage of a 15% discount for veterans and $10 discount for direct autopay to keep costs down as much as possible. Between satellite TV, Internet connectivity for the house and cell phones, being connected sure takes a toll on our retirement income each month.

Boatman1955, To measure the height, lay a board on top of the air conditioner and make sure it's level - then measure the distance to ground from underneath it. Use a vent cover meant for the Fantastic fan or you'll lose a lot of its ability to move air. The smaller covers are great for the small fan in most bathrooms and non-powered vents.

Sadly, delamination was an industry wide problem until 2008 when the manufactures finally switched away from the plywood underlayment. Many, many brands were affected including Country Coach, Monaco who built Safaris and Treks like I own. Mine didn't delaminate, the gelcoat checked and cracked all over the place but especially under the darker colors. The only sure cure is replacement which to have done is well over $20k.

No, "Ventline" makes a lot of the covers that sunlight quickly ages and causes them to get brittle and crack. They should know better. "Maxxair" makes a nice cover that isn't affected by the sun. Check this source https://www.rvupgradestore.com/RV-Vent-Covers-s/189.htm for some but you can find them at any RV parts store.

Your bubbles on the outside walls are call de-lamination - usually a sign water is getting behind the fiberglass someway. Start fixing the leaks first to stop damage from progressing. I put covers over all my roof and fan vents to prevent the sun from cracking the plastic OEM covers. After all the leaks are fixed, then you can address any other pressing matters. The See Ya's were great MHs in their day and with a little TLC should give you great service. It pays to be handy owning one of these things.

I've been in the heating and air conditioning business for over 50 years. Nothing was wrong with the furnace. Moisture is a by-product of combustion - like I mentioned about a gallon of water is produced for every gallon of propane burned or every hour the furnace in your house operates. The reason new 90%+ furnaces are vented in plastic is because of the condensation produced by the cooler by--products of the flame. In older less efficient furnaces, the flue gasses can't be allowed to condense before their vented through the roof - if they condense in the pipe, they will corrode the pipe and if the pipe isn't insulated good enough, they could freeze and block the flue. Every winter I hear about houses where that happens and the fumes end up in the house asphyxiating the people in the house. Proper venting is essential.