desertdeals69
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Posts posted by desertdeals69
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I use an old Moto Sat slimline 5 and all I have to do is to push the button and I can watch HD on Directv.
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As we all know the XRV tire is hard-to-find.
Is there any recommendations for the replacement of that tire?
Looking to replace my 235/80R22.5 XRV with 245/75R22.5 SUMMITOMO or anything else I can use?
I run Toyo 245/75R22.5.
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8 or 10 stud?
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As mentioned the addition of gadgets that claim increases in mpg usually don't deliver. I have tried various modifications with extremely limited increases on about 9 different coaches since mid 70's. I changed to a diesel pusher 16 years ago and increased my mpg to around 9. Still not happy I did some research. Since my engine was a mechanical 5.9 liter Cummins I tried an advertised high performance injector pump and injectors. The increase in power was large however the mpg was not as good as before. Other problems were that the transmission and rear end ratios were not correct and the engine overheated. I then decided to change engines to a ISB electronic and a 6 speed Allison transmission and the matching radiator and cac. I finally got what I wanted, 10 to 11 mpg while towing a 1/2 ton Silverado coast to coast.
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At an FMCA convention about 5 years ago I had RV Glass replace both windshields. One was defective, starting to delaminate in a couple of days and it was replaced in Elkhart where we were 4 days after the oringinal replacement. I have no deductible, law in Az? Never had to pay for deductible on any windshield replacement.
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I have used Thin Lite fixtures for almost 40 years in about 10 coaches and never had the covers fall off. They snap in the full length of the cover.
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I have 600 watts solar with a 40 amp 3 stage MPPT controller and 6 AGM golf cart batteries. Cost for the solar system was about $900. We have a fairly high usage with 40 inch TV, Directv and equipment and bedroom TV and equipment and occasional use of the microwave or toaster. With moderate sun light the batteries are maintained. If you park under a parking lot light with the new LED bulbs it will charge at 6 amps all night!
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I do all my reservations online with Thousand Trails. I stayed 142 nights last year.
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I installed a gas shock on the top of the door.
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It might be difficult to expand the system you have. I would install a complete new system using a MPPT charge controller. The larger the wattage the higher the charge current. What kind and size is your battery bank? I have 6 agm golf cart batteries and 600 watt panels and it will charge up to over 40 amps, depending the state of charge of the batteries and the amount of sunlight. I have parked under a LED parking lot light and charged 5 amps all night!
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Been doing that for over 20 years with 3-5 receivers. Never had cable at home.
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Two Questions:
Can an inverter be removed from a motor home and the motor home still run?
Can an inverter be replaced by a converter?
Did your inverter/charger fail?
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Glad to be of assistance. Thats the way we have been doing it in our RV shop.
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The waste gate does not start opening when engine rpm starts to increase. It stays closed until set boost pressure is reached then it opens. It will only open when boost set pressure is reached. Boost pressure is not always reached with wide open throttle, it depends on rpm and load.
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Large parking lots such as Walmart, Costco, Home Depot, etc. Park away from the store.
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The chassis batteries should hold a charge for more that 2 weeks, might have a small current draw. The house batteries will be at 9-10 volts if the inverter was left on.
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Try Toyos.
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The way I do it is to unhook the diaphragm hose as hook up a regulator on an air supply. Adjust the rod so that it starts to move a 30 psi. That should give you 28 lbs of boost. I set mine a 32 and get 30 lbs.
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Chevy Vortec 5.3. I live near sea level. Am in Salt Lake City this week and filled up with the lowest price gas without noticing the octane. It was 85. Well, I hadn't planned using the fuel as I am towing it behind my motorhome and will probably have most of the fuel when I get to sea level again. Plan on doing most of my driving along the Oregon coast so it will probably be OK. Just wish I had noticed the octane.
It should have a knock sensor that retards timing so all you would notice is a slight reduction in power.
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Air over hydraulic? Gotta be kidding me. Really?? Sorry but who thought that up? My apologies to the poster having the problem, but the motorhome industry never ceases to amaze me.
My Spartan chassis had air over hydraulic brakes originally, which is not that uncommon. I have since changed my suspension to air bags and brakes to full air brakes. Since I removed both the air actuated master cylinders I have repurposed one of them to my tow dolly and got rid of the surge master cylinder so I don't have the continual brake on going down a long hill.
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Is the park brake on the end of the transmission? If it is the air releases the brake and it is activated by a spring not air.
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Herman is spot on.
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Sounds like the door is out of square. Measure it corner to opposite corner, see if they are the same. If they are not loosen the screws and use bar clamp on the long side and tighten until measurements are the same and then tighten the screws.
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They work OK but since they are made of plastic they will turn yellow with age.
Well We Did It
in Type A motorhomes
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Roadmaster will check every one of their tow bars for free. They go around and inspect everyone that has one of theirs and if there is a problem they will take care of it.