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desertdeals69

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Posts posted by desertdeals69


  1. After determining I had no leaks on the plumbing and bags, still had loss of pressure I checked the input valves on each tank.  I pressure tested them by putting 125 lbs of pressure to them and submerging in water.  I found leakage.  I tried to fix them by lapping the disc and it reduce the leakage but not eliminated it.  I finally replaced with new and I still have air pressure the next morning.


  2. I changed my 30 amp 93 Coachmen Santara to 50 amp.  Since you are an electrician you will understand what needs to be done.  I put in all new breakers on both sides of the 50-50 amp, then split the load.  When the gen closes the ATS one leg is 30 amp and one leg is 20 amp.


  3. There is a couple of salvage yards just north of Elkhart in Michigan.  They are in White Pigeon, Bontragers RV surplus parts.  I can't remember the name of the other one but it might be Johnsons, its a few miles west of the other one, on US 12.

    I installed new Tahoe middle row seats as captains chairs.  I used the middle row seats because they have arm rests on each side and they recline and have a pocket on the back.  They are very comfortable on long drives.


  4. Years ago I had a pinched steel brake line smashed between the frame and cross member done at the factory.  It was on drum brakes but the brakes would come on but slowly retract.  I only found it after the coach was 3 years old.  Replace the tubing and it worked perfect.


  5. 8 hours ago, Mikey229617 said:

    If I tow a vehicle behind my coach on a dolly that has full lighting and brakes, do I need to add additional lighting to the towed vehicle?  If so, what is the best way to do that on a vehicle that has no metal to attached magnetic lights to?

     

    Thanks.

    If the law requires lights further back than on the tow dolly you can splice into your existing wire harness with diodes and use the original lights.  Another way if the light housing are large enough would be to install additional bulbs and wire it independently.


  6. 3 hours ago, hermanmullins said:

    DD,

    The M & G Brake has a small air tank in the system. It is connected to the M & G brake cylinder, which is mounted between the Power brake booster and the master cylinder, it contains enough PSI to lock down the brakes incase of a complete disconnect. That is the disconnect cable I mentioned in my first answer. The cable is connected to a small solenoid that is connected to the battery. It draws no power unless activated by a complete disconnection.

    If you go on to www.mgengineering.com website you can read and see how simple the system is.

    Herman

     

    Thanks for the info Herman.


  7. 12 minutes ago, Elkhartjim said:

    Like Herman, I'm a real advocate for the M&G braking system; I especially appreciate its a truly proportional system. The more pressure applied to the motorhome brake the more braking is applied on my Jeep brakes.  M&G, in Athens, can install the baseplate on your Jeep at the time they install the brake. Also, you can arrive the night before and park next to their building where they have 50amp service available. I believe the Invisibrake gets its signal from the motorhome brake lights, what happens when you're descending a long grade using your exhaust brake? Since the exhaust brake eliminates the brake lights, does that mean it would activate the toad brakes?

    When I installed an ISB 275 complete with new harness I had the option if I wanted the brake lights to come on when the exhaust brake came on or not. This is the first time I've had an exhaust brake so I wasn't familiar how it worked.  I presume that is an option at some point in time so I would imagine there a motorhomes that the brake lights come with the exhaust brake.  In a sense when the exhaust brake is engaged that is some part of slowing down so therefore the brake lights should be on same as a light brake pedal.

    How is the brake applied if the vehicle becomes disconnected with the M&G?

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