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Posts posted by desertdeals69
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I use a HP 4100 series which is an older one but it has a scanner with the printer. It is 12 inches deep so it fits in the overhead cupboard.
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After determining I had no leaks on the plumbing and bags, still had loss of pressure I checked the input valves on each tank. I pressure tested them by putting 125 lbs of pressure to them and submerging in water. I found leakage. I tried to fix them by lapping the disc and it reduce the leakage but not eliminated it. I finally replaced with new and I still have air pressure the next morning.
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What brand of coach do you have? What does the roof material look like? If it is smooth and can dent with you fingernail easily and return smooth it could be rubber. If it does that then use Dicor self leveling caulk.
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On June 18, 2016 at 10:44 PM, desertdeals690 said:I never saw it in print, just one of their reps mentioned it.
I believe it was said that the rubber does not breathe enough. Maybe tireman can comment.
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I never saw it in print, just one of their reps mentioned it.
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303 is good for some things like graphics but never on tires.
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I live in Lk Havasu City, Az and went to Sturbridge Ma, to the Thousand Trails campground (Outdoor World) then drove the toad to Boston. Went across I70 and back on I40 when we could.
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I'm not sure but I think it will not receive HD.
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You might check the door gasket.
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I changed my 30 amp 93 Coachmen Santara to 50 amp. Since you are an electrician you will understand what needs to be done. I put in all new breakers on both sides of the 50-50 amp, then split the load. When the gen closes the ATS one leg is 30 amp and one leg is 20 amp.
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There is a couple of salvage yards just north of Elkhart in Michigan. They are in White Pigeon, Bontragers RV surplus parts. I can't remember the name of the other one but it might be Johnsons, its a few miles west of the other one, on US 12.
I installed new Tahoe middle row seats as captains chairs. I used the middle row seats because they have arm rests on each side and they recline and have a pocket on the back. They are very comfortable on long drives.
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I have used various GPS units with good success with some of them RV data. Sometimes the RV portion is not accurate but most of them got you where you wanted to go. Currently we use iPhones which seem to be adequate to get you there.
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A friend of mine had JC install a helium unit in his 1200 series and also installed the ARP control unit. Works great and he is very happy.
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I would look into moving the hinge to the left side then it would open from right to left.
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I have been using that kind of set up for 40 years. It will not work if the 15/20 amp circuit has gfi.
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Years ago I had a pinched steel brake line smashed between the frame and cross member done at the factory. It was on drum brakes but the brakes would come on but slowly retract. I only found it after the coach was 3 years old. Replace the tubing and it worked perfect.
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8 hours ago, Mikey229617 said:If I tow a vehicle behind my coach on a dolly that has full lighting and brakes, do I need to add additional lighting to the towed vehicle? If so, what is the best way to do that on a vehicle that has no metal to attached magnetic lights to?
Thanks.
If the law requires lights further back than on the tow dolly you can splice into your existing wire harness with diodes and use the original lights. Another way if the light housing are large enough would be to install additional bulbs and wire it independently.
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Searchlight NV has a trap at 25 MPH.
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They should run on either heat source because the cool is accomplished the same way, only the heat is produced differently.
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If you have a toad it should have brakes.
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3 hours ago, hermanmullins said:DD,
The M & G Brake has a small air tank in the system. It is connected to the M & G brake cylinder, which is mounted between the Power brake booster and the master cylinder, it contains enough PSI to lock down the brakes incase of a complete disconnect. That is the disconnect cable I mentioned in my first answer. The cable is connected to a small solenoid that is connected to the battery. It draws no power unless activated by a complete disconnection.
If you go on to www.mgengineering.com website you can read and see how simple the system is.
Herman
Thanks for the info Herman.
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I have used Toyo's with good success. The ride may be a little harsher because the sidewall are a little stiffer.
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12 minutes ago, Elkhartjim said:Like Herman, I'm a real advocate for the M&G braking system; I especially appreciate its a truly proportional system. The more pressure applied to the motorhome brake the more braking is applied on my Jeep brakes. M&G, in Athens, can install the baseplate on your Jeep at the time they install the brake. Also, you can arrive the night before and park next to their building where they have 50amp service available. I believe the Invisibrake gets its signal from the motorhome brake lights, what happens when you're descending a long grade using your exhaust brake? Since the exhaust brake eliminates the brake lights, does that mean it would activate the toad brakes?
When I installed an ISB 275 complete with new harness I had the option if I wanted the brake lights to come on when the exhaust brake came on or not. This is the first time I've had an exhaust brake so I wasn't familiar how it worked. I presume that is an option at some point in time so I would imagine there a motorhomes that the brake lights come with the exhaust brake. In a sense when the exhaust brake is engaged that is some part of slowing down so therefore the brake lights should be on same as a light brake pedal.
How is the brake applied if the vehicle becomes disconnected with the M&G?
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We have done it a number of times, last summer being the most recent.
We live in Lk Havasu and cruised out of Boston last summer. What would you like to know?
Norcold 1200 lrm
in Systems and Appliances
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Have you checked the outlet the fridge is plugged into?