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desertdeals69

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Posts posted by desertdeals69


  1. I talked to that guy at a rally from Absorption Refrigeration Protection Control. He claims the 2 heating elements overheat and cracks the metal which causes the leak. He had a sample he showed me. Norcold put a box with a temperature probe on the heating elements to trip if the elements overheat. His design puts the temperature probe above the heating elements which my opinion is too late to prevent the crack. Norcold has to be reset with a magnet as they want customers to have the unit inspected if it overheats. His design reset automatically regardless of the reason of the trip. The bottom line is, if you decide to get this different mouse trap installed, please do not disconnect the Norcold protection unit.

    The Norcold sensor is installed on the outside of the insulation and turns the power off at 800 degrees. If the outside of the insulation is that hot it probably is already on fire. The ARP control sensor is attached to the boiler tube and senses when the temp reaches 400 and turns off the power for 10 minutes and lets it cool down. When it comes back on if the temp climbs past that point it shuts off for 20 minutes. If the problem is not taken care of it does it 5 times and then stays off until manually reset. The temp is never let go high enough to cause the internal damage. The rise in temp is caused by not being level or going up or down steep hills. The position of the sensor on the ARP control is covered by the patent so it can't be copied.


  2. It is my understanding the parts are made off shore, shipped in bulk and then assembled in this country. When I talked to them thats what I was told. Anybody can call them to verify the information. With Roadmaster everything is machined in house. I had a very comprehensive tour of the factory and saw for myself.


  3. If you plan to spend weeks or months at a time in the same place it might work ok but if you want to move more frequently its a pain to get it ready to travel. You have to go from the trailer to the truck in all kinds of weather. I have traveled with trailer people and it takes an average of 2 plus hours before they can move. I can be on the road in 15 minutes in my diesel pusher.


  4. We have a True Duo in a 2016 motorhome. We're very disappointed with it. We of course use only induction cookware (Magma Induction) and have no complaints with the mid to upper heat ranges but the low end is inconsistent and way off in temp. We're at sea level yet the cooktop will boil at 180 degrees. The heat increments are 30 degrees each. So the next higher one would be (and is) 210. That's a very fast boil We tried paper between the burner and pan, a paper plate and a plate.

    Very hard to simmer, slow cook or keep warm. We'll see what happens when we get to the factory for some other issues.

    On my Farberware when it is set to keep warm the temp is 138-140.


  5. Been using portable induction cook tops in the motorhome for a number of years. Use it when plugged in or on the generator.

    When compared to a regular electric cook top, it uses 1/2 the current and boils water in half the time. At home we have a 4 burner induction range made by Samsung. Our first one for the motorhome was a Burton. Got it about 8 years ago and finally gave it to our youngest son.

    Now we are using a Farberware from Walmart for $50.


  6. The last time I checked Kwikee and Lippert were 2 different companies. Being in the marine business in Seattle, broken ss bolts in aluminum was an everyday occurrence. I would drill as close to center to the correct size to tap out to the finish size. If I screwed up the threads I would drill oversize and insert a Heli-coil. If you need a replacement motor for Kwikee a Ford 90 LTD drivers window is the replacement for about $40 at the local auto parts store.

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