desertdeals69
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Posts posted by desertdeals69
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Have you checked with Dal Tile themselves, they may have some in a warehouse somewhere.
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I would erect sort of a sunscreen cover to protect it in the future.
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Is the winterizing valve all the way open? Have you flushed the hot water tank? Check the pipes for corrosion and blockage.
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It might depend on the rear end ratio. Mine is into 6th gear at 54 mph. I usually use economy mode.
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Half it.
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Thanks I'll look into that.
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What year is your coach?
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I wish they made it for Apple.
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I had my passenger side windshield crack when the air was empty and the front was on the stops and I raised the back on one side to change a tire. I now raise the front when I tilt the back. Maybe the clearance between the fiberglass and the windshield should be increased so it won't bind.
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If you use hydrogen peroxide it will do the job without any after taste. Pour 8 oz into the fill hose and then fill the tank with about 10 gallons of water. Run each faucet until the treated water comes through. When you are ready to use the system just fill the water tank full and use it. No chlorine taste.
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I would leave it empty.
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My experience with gas chassis is with Dodge in the mid 70's to the mid 80's and Chevy in the 80's and Ford class C in the 90's. I have had about 8 different chassis and when I first got them they all had handling problems. I tried all available mods and they all improved the handling but it was when I moved to a diesel pusher that I realized what I had been missing. I just got my second diesel pusher 2 weeks ago. I'm a happy camper.
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On 5/15/2016 at 9:52 PM, rwitt said:Thanks for all the replays. I did clean it with baking soda but may not have gotten all of it since I was in a hurry. I agree that I need to clean and paint the tray. About the possible problem with charging. Herman, where do I check the voltage at - the batteries? My EMS shows floating charge most of the time and 13.3 or 13.4 volts. I called Monaco some time back and was told that was working correctly. With that info, do you still think it is a charging problem?
Tom, I think I'll try cleaning and reprinting tray. If it continues after that, I may look into the AGM batteries. Where did you get yours? I'm also going to get someone to check the charging system to make sure there is no problem there.
Thank you guys very much. If you think of anything else or can answer my questions in this post I would appreciate a reply
Ron
Your floating charge is OK but you need to check the bulk and absorbion modes to see if they are OK.
I have 6 AGM batteries made by Full River. They sell for about $250 each. Check online for a dealer near you.
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22 hours ago, Wayne77590 said:Absorption refrigerator like Norcold: 3˚ side to side, 6˚ front to rear. (for my Norcold 1200 any way).
Here is what I do - but be darn careful no to roll off the back end.
I only do this for loading and unloading. All other times it is in a storage facility.
This, of course, is at ones own risk.
In our test the boiler tube temp starts to rise (not good) at 2-3 degress front to back.
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Unless you have to be an early adopter I would wait until they have proven themselves. Until they figure out why they catch on fire I would stay away from them. An airline switched all their credit card machines to lithium and one caught fire in the galley so they immediately took them out of service. Also e cigarettes are have the same problem.
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We stayed at Watchmans in Zion a few years ago and they had electric.
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If the charger does not have a AGM setting, use the flooded setting. They are very similar.
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If the fan is squealing the bearings are dry. The fix is usually to replace the motor.
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17 hours ago, Deltron said:The power steering is growling just like a car that's low on fluid. The remote reservoir for the power steering is foaming.
The chassis is a 5.9 Cummins/Allison pusher Oshkosh.
Thank You.
Check for a filter. If it has one change it and the fluid. It should not be foaming.
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I use the Sterling towing a 1/2 ton Silverado. Works perfect.
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7 hours ago, SLSettles said:First, thanks for the perseverance to read through all this! I did not do any other tests on the inverter, other than to see if it worked on batteries, on shore with the MSW off, on shore with the MSW on, and with the coach running. Once I found that it would not work in two key conditions I called Xantrex and talked with a tech. The result of that call was the suggestion that I try larger cables (which I dismissed out of hand, #1 18" cables do not have significant drop at these loads) or upgrade to a 2000w version.
As for the fridge, yes, it has had an extended burn-in period... we have used it at home for years. And yes, I have run it with a Kill-A-Watt many times to evaluate it's consumption, including a couple of days right before moving it to the motorhome to confirm that the numbers were in line with what my batteries can provide.
Thanks again
Did you check the kill-a-watt when it was defrosting? It probably draws 10 times the current as the running amps on the spec.
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10 hours ago, DWAYNECHERAMIE said:Will start towing 20 ft enclosed car hauler w/2003.. 39 ft Fleetwood excursion,330 hp cat..
Question is when I get into a pull thru site and want to lower air bags on rig w/trailer still hooked up,when ready to depart,will trailer be to heavy for air comp. to lift rig back up?
If the ride height is maintained going down the highway there is ample air to lift the weight.
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I did some test on residential refrigerators running on different inverters from 300 watt to 3000 watt. I used 3 refrigerators of different brands and 4 different brand of inverters. Some of the refrigerators wouldn't even run on some inverters, both msw and psw. I could never conclude a consensus so I just picked the refrigerator I wanted and then chose the inverter that worked with it. I wound up with a Haier 10.1 cu ft and a Xantrex SW3012. I did put a switch on the auto defrost because it came on at least once a day and it has a big amp draw. I have 6 AGM golf cart batteries and 600 watts of solar with a MPPT charge controller.
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I have given this some thought. Anyone running AGM house batteries? My experience with these was only in the chassis side and was very limited to meetings complaining about the performance. The issue my old employer had was AGM batteries discharge in stages not like a wet cell, and they experienced over temp issues during charging. They experimented with several different manufactures and those were the complaints. One in particular was when they would discharge in steps in stead of gradually. We had starters that would not respond with 11.5 volts on a DVOM, where a wet cell would crank slow and you might have some hope, the AGM left you stranded. As I said I have no personal experience with them. I have been considering switching when it's time and just wanted to hear real world experience in a house battery sitiuation.
I am running 6 AGM golf cart batteries with 600 watt solar on the roof. It will charge with full sun at about 40 amps. My charge controller is a 3 stage charger same as my 3000 watt Xantrex inverter/charger.
Dual Ducted A/C
in Systems and Appliances
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Removing the rags to me makes sense.