desertdeals69
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Posts posted by desertdeals69
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The smart charger should float charge the batteries and not allow the water to boil out. I would still check the levels every so often. When I had wet cells I had the watering system which had the level gauge on each cap so it was easy to check the levels.
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I would not consider a combined unit because if one failed you would have to replace both.
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When I had my coach painted I was offered the 3m shield. The cost was $1250 so I asked how much the repaint the front and was quoted $800. Its been 3 years and over 22000 miles and it still looks good enough that I don't need a repaint.
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I would go with Roadmaster. All of their parts for the tow bar are made by them in house. I've toured the factory and seen the parts being machined and assembled. Some of the other manufacturers have parts made off shore and then assembled in their factories. Roadmaster does free inspections at the major rallies.
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I like all the features that Tire Minder has. Buy before the end of the year and get a digital tire gauge free according to their ad in the Dec FMCA magazine.
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This is DC to AC amperage conversion run through an Inverter: 120 volts AC @ 5 Amps = 600 Watts. Convert that to 12 volts DC = 55.2 Amps DC.
Microwave oven 120 volts @ 7.1 Amps = 850 Watts. Convert that to 12 volt AC = 78.38 Amps DC.
This does not include if the refrigerator goes into defrost cycle or icemaker heater kicks in to expel ice from the mold. With that in mind the amperage of a refrigerator could go over that of a microwave.
There is an easy calculator at link below
http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/ac-to-dc-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html
The one thing I noticed when traveling on flat level road with no wind, when the microwave is turned on the mpg drops 1/4 mpg. Usually the microwave is only on for a minute or two. We have used the crock pot for several hours without problem. I think the key is to have a large enough alternator. We have a 10 cu ft residential fridge. Once I had a problem with the dash heat and used a 1500 watt electric quartz heater running off the inverter for 1400 miles in the middle of winter.
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The rating of an alternator is at the max output and not continuous output which is roughly one half the max rating. When I installed my ISB Cummins into my coach the stock alt was a Delco about the size of an automotive one. It was 160 amp rated which was the highest for that frame size. I had 6 6 volt and 2 group 31 12 volt batteries and I burned up 2 alternators. I went to the next larger frame size Delco and had it built to 245 amps and it has been charging as it should for 13 years and over 100k miles. We use the microwave on the inverter while going down the road without any problems.
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Sealand makes a tool, its like a tongue depressor but made out of plastic and it is rough on one side. Works pretty good most of the time.
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I have changed seals on several different toilets and I never touched the valve assembly. All I did is loosen the big "hose" clamp, take the 2 plastic clamping pieces, lift the bowl off and replace the gasket and seal. Total time to do the job is less than 10 minutes.
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I still flip the breaker before I plug or unplug out of habit. What Tom says is correct that no current draw is present until the surge protector closes, which on mine is about 3 minutes so technically it is not necessary to turn the breaker off when plugging in. Breakers are not designed to be used as switches and it shortens the life of the breaker. I was told this by several different electricians.
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As far as the climb is concerned you should have no problems. Your coach is equipped to handle the climb and your toad isn't super heavy so that should be no problem. That time of year any problems with overheating should be no concern. Even a warm day in January in the LA area is cool by comparison to the summer temperatures you coach should be able to handle. We've driven the grapevine and mountain roads that are much more extreme. Take your time and you'll be fine. Remember your aren't in a race. Get in the truck lane and hang with the big boys! Flashers on if you drop below 45 MPH is pretty standard to indicate to any approaching traffic that you are a slow vehicle. You'll probably find yourself passing a few of the really heavily loaded trucks that are creeping along at 15 or 20 miles per hour in low-low gear.
There are alternatives to that route. We've taken US 58 out of Bakersfield toward Mojave, Connect to I-15/I-40 at Barstow and stay on I-40 to the California/Arizona border. Then you have a choice of US 95S on either side of the border. It's smaller highway and I think the California side is an easier drive but it is US highway and last time we drove it, in reasonably good condition. You will then pick I-10 at Blythe or Quartzite depending on which route you chose.
If you haven't driven I-10, there are long stretches of open highway. Major cities to be avoided at rush hour include Phoenix, Tucson, El Paso, San Antonio, and Houston. Of these, Tucson is the least problem but I would try to navigate through all of them in early morning, mid-day or late evening. Each has a bypass of some kind and you could avoid the intense city traffic taking the bypass. I prefer real early morning for these city transits if at all possible. A good GPS is helpful in cities. It will advise you of coming lane changes and exits to help with your planning while driving. If you are using a new GPS, try to get some time with it in the car to learn its use and how it provides directions. The last thing you need in heavy city traffic is the distraction of trying to figure out what the GPS wants you to do!
Have a good trip! If you want a few days of rest along the way there are nice parks in Boerne, TX, just north of San Antonio, right on I-10. San Antonio is a great city to explore. The River Walk will be drained that time of year but there are great restaurants along the River Walk and it is a pretty area even without the water. There are artsy shops and stores in La Villa along the River Walk. Once you see San Antonio you'll have to stop again on your return trip in the spring!
On the north side of Houston, the city of Spring, Texas has many artsy shops and stores. South of Houston is Galveston and further south the Texas Gulf Coast has many pretty stopping spots.
Enjoy Florida.
If you want to use Ca 95 you will turn off of I40 before the river and if you us Az 95 its 9 miles after the river. There is a new highway from I40 towards Havasu that is nice and wide.
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Tom suggestion on doing a test run on water usage and holding tank capacity is right on. The kind of charger you have and battery bank will dictate how long you need to run the generator. One of the advantages of having an inverter/charger is the charge rate is much higher than most chargers have. They also have a three stage charging which is better for the longevity of the batteries.
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One of the problems with inertial braking systems used on diesel motor homes is that the brakes are activated by any retarding of the motion of the vehicle combination. When you use your engine brake down a long hill or mountain slope, the inertial brakes on the toad can be activated will remain on during the whole time the engine brake is on. This can cause serious burning of the brakes as they may be doing more than just assisting in slowing the toad. The brakes on the toad could be slowing the motor home! I don't know if you can adjust the brakes to be insensitive enough to prevent this and still get braking action from them when the service brakes are used.
That is why I use air brakes with a proportional relay valve and separate air tank so the toad brakes are only on for the amount of braking of the motorhome.
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I would check with the people that installed the brake system and then with Blue Ox.
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Yes I found my speedometer to be 5.8% slow. I to use my GPS speed. I always felt it was slow because I would creep up on traffic on the freeway. You know the ones who wouldn't go over if there was a forest fire catching up to them.
At indicated 65 I was doing 68+.Bill
Your error is easily corrected, you have to know the revs per mile and the rear end gear ratio and find someone with the laptop that has the right program. Every time I have changed my ratio, 4 times, I had my friend recalibrate my speedo. It takes about 5 minutes.
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One thing to consider the larger the capacity of the battery the longer it will last with a given load, however it has to be recharged.
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Hi DesertDeal, thanks for the response. I am very intrigued by the drop in current draw simply by installing a new inverter. I have been considering that too, not because of any suspicions on draw, but because I want a true sine wave output. Can you share what model inverter you got? I assume you also got a remote panel for it?
Also, I am VERY impressed you got 6 panels and a 40 amp charge controller for under $1000. Again, can you tell me more? Like where did you get those? Did you install them your self?
The inverter is a Xantrex SW3012, a 3000 watt, pure sine wave, with control panel. The solar panels are Renogy branded and also the charge controller is Renogy branded, 40 amp MPPT. The charge controller has 3 stage charging. I would go with the AGM 6 volt batteries.
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The tops of the batteries must be dry and clean, no acid collection from the vents. With moisture and acid residue that is a direct short.
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If you use a charger be sure it is a smart charger so it won't over charge.
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I installed a center mounted tank for my generator. It has a remote fill panel that consist of the standard threaded fitting, bleed screw and a rocker switch for the solenoid shut off valve.
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Have engine running so you have hydraulic pressure.
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Check to see if there are any extra wires on the battery side of the switches.
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We own a 2004 Safari Panther, a 42 footer. Overall a wonderful motorhome, but the previous owner put in a residential reefer, which, of course, will only run on 120V
I have four 6V Golf cart batteries (226 Amp Hour each) and I have two 100W Solar panels on the roof.
I am finding that this setup is not sufficient for any real dry camping/boon docking. Switching to the inverter will run the reefer overnight, but drains the batteries to 30% by morning. The two 100W solar panels will not re-charge the batteries during the day.
I looked at adding more batteries and going up to 600W solar (the max I can add to the current system), but was told (reputable RV Solar company) that that setup will still not do what I want and will still require me to run the generator, PLUS, it is quite costly.
So my other option is to replace the residential reefer with one that can run on Propane.
So my question is has anyone had a similar experience and how did YOU solve it.
And, does anyone have any recommendations on reefers?
Thanks for your ideas/suggestions.
Albert and Linda
When I installed a residential fridge I was having trouble with my batteries lasting. I have 6 AGM 6 volt, 600 watt solar which would marginally keep the batteries up. After logging my current draw I noticed that my current seemed high. I was drawing between 9 and 12 amps on 12 volt when the refer was running, with the refer listed at 2.3 amps (10.1 cu ft). Then I changed the inverter and now my current draw is 3 to 5 amps on 12 volt.
My solar system consists of 6 100 watt mono crystalline panels and most important a 40 amp MPPT charge controller, with 98% efficiency. The cost was under $1000.
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If you go to a tank farm you will see tankers from just about every brand of fuel there. The additives such as octane boosters are added on delivery to the station.
Converter Or Smart Charger As Replacement
in Electrical
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I would go with a inverter/charger. The charger is a 3 stage which is smart.