tireman9

I understand the Eternabond tape is good for seams that need something to hold the seam together but if you just want a bit of extra waterproofing like around the ladder feet that attach to the roof why wouldn't 100% silicone seal be OK? Comes in smaller, resealable and less expensive container than Dicor. Have also wondered about "Flex Seal" as advertised on TV ? Thoughts

What is the proper ratio of Bleach to water? 1 cup per 5 gal capacity?? 1 cup per 15 gal capacity ?? I have heard both. The Class-C was drained and had antifreeze over winter. Was drained but not flushed when I left campground after Perry in March. Want to sanitize and flush before I head out in 3 weeks.

From experience, I know that some items are discontinued simply because the volumes do not justify carrying inventory. Tires are made in batches of a few hundred to continuous runs of thousands a day. If you only make a run of say 500 tires how can you properly stock your warehouses? If you only sell a couple thousand a year or maybe only 500 a year, how can you justify disrupting the production of an item you make and sell at hundreds a day? There is a lot of lost downtime of very expensive equipment when there is a change in a production run. How often do you want to shut down a building machine that has a 10 tire output per hour when it might take 2 hours to make the change over? These machines can cost $250,000 to $500,000 each and tire production is 24/7. Then there is the QA requirements. If an item is out of production for a long enough period of time the plant may need to run additional QA checks which can cost the company $thousands in testing and analysis plus the destruction of a number of tires run on the tests or simply cut up to confirm proper machine set-up.

I don't think he was. Kiltedpig just didn't read the complete tire size. He did what many do. I get numerous questions such as. " How much inflation should I run in my 262R22.5 tires or similar abbreviations or typos.

The Big 3 have "company stores" that work together with their inventory. You can check dealer location from the corporate website. Goodyear, Michelin, or Bridgestone. Firestone uses same stores as Bridgestone and Dunlop would share Goodyear and Uniroyal with Michelin. I would just go to the company website for the brand you run or are interested in and look for the link on "Dealers" or "Store Location"

While the question of Radials has been answered. I would suggest it would not be good to mix radials and bias tires on the same vehicle as the steering (oversteer/understeer could be different than what you are used to. It is of course NEVER good to mix radial & bias on the same axle as the side motion of the more flexible radials could cause problems with the bias tire.

Sorry but I do not agree with the concept that running 110 PSi in a LR-L would be "unsafe and result in excessive flexing and heat. This assumes you are running the correct inflation based on your measured load. While not the same product I have been writing in my BLOG about what inflation to run when you change size or LR

If price were not part of the decision I would select based on tire availability and number of service locations across the US ( and Canada if you travel there).

Sometimes people screw the valve core in too far so it is not opened by the gauge. If the center pin on your gauge or your inflation chuck is a little deep or worn it may not contact the pin in the tire valve. I have this problem right now because I had someone change a tire rather than do it myself. (It was rainy & cold and I got lazy) At least I know the inflation is OK as the TPMS will read the pressure but the first non-snow day when the temp hits 55 I will have to pull the core and install a new one as the core gasket (S in the picture) is probably distorted now from being over tight. There is a spec for how deep the pin "P" can be from the surface of the valve stem 0.010 above to 0.035 deep. FYI the actual place the air goes in or out is the Valve V in the core. HERE is my post on why valves can leak sometimes.

And I thought constantly looking at tires was an afliction only suffered by tire Engineers. I've been doing it so long that the DW can ID tires that are about 30 percent or more low.

Mixing tires in a dual position take some special precautions. This and THIS post cover the most important considerations. Check them both. While you can mix brands side to side on the rear axle BUT you do need to confirm the OD difference side to side is not too large as this would make the differential work harder all the time. Not sure if fully support the "thicker sidewall" idea as these large tires have a significant difference in sidewall thickness as you move from the tread down to the bead. Also, it is sometimes possible to achieve a change in sidewall stiffness even as you make it thinner if you vary the placement of the different materials as not all rubber has the same level of stiffness and some can be very flexible while other almost as stiff as a rock.

The owners think they had the steering unlocked. I will agree they could be mistaken. Both tires were rotating because the damage was 360 degrees around the tread. I think the tires turned sideways to the right when the Jeep was pulled around a corner but when the RV went back to straight the tires on the Jeep did not go back to straight ahead but remained turned to the right. The left front suffered the most damage on its outer shoulder and the right tire had less overall damage due to weight transfer. The RF also suffered its greatest damage but on the inner side which is in line with the idea the steering was turned right. In the picture, it can be seen that the outer shoulder of the RF tire shows almost no signs of being dragged which also lines up with the tire being stuck turned to the right while the Jeep was being pulled straight ahead. Most vehicles have what is called "self-aligning torque" which is supposed to bring the tires back to straight ahead if you let go of the steering wheel. I am wondering if this force is lower on Jeeps.

Trying to help a fellow Rv owner who flat tows a 2007 Jeep Liberty Sport with their new to them 2007 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40PDQ . They suffered a tire failure (belt separation) on the LF and some damage to the tread on the RF. My read on the tire damage is that the steering was turned way to the right and would not re-center resulting in the tire being dragged sideway with the resulting belt & tread being partially torn off. Comments or ideas appreciated Jeep LF.pdf

I am running a comparison test of two different brand of TPM systems and while not complete I have posted some of the initial data on my RV tire blog. www.RVTireSafety.net You might want to check it out. I would however not be concerned with a rise of 20F.

Welcome to any new FMCA members. If you have questions on tires you should check out the TIRE thread in the Technical area. Until then here are the general recommendations I do not see posts with actual side to side measured loads on each tire. Single axle trailers should: 1. Confirm actual load on each tire 2. Calculate 115% of the heavier end 3. Check Load & inflation tables using the 115% number to learn the MINIMUM allowable inflation 4. Add 10% to that inflation number and use this new number for your goal Cold Inflation psi Multi-axle trailers should: 1. Confirm actual loads for each tire 2. Calculate 115% of the heavier end 3. Check Load & inflation tables using the 115% number to learn the MINIMUM allowable inflation 4. Add 10% to that inflation number and use this new number for your goal Cold Inflation psi 5. If you want to lower the potential for a belt separation due to the multi-axle Interply Shear increase your CIP to the tire sidewall pressure. This link is a Google search on Interply Shear if you want to learn more.

I prefer to use the dimensions published by the tire mfg for the tires I am considering. The "comparison" website is theoretical dimensions based on numerical tire sizing. Bet the website gives identical dimensions for all brands of tires but the data sheets do have some minor differences. Links to different mfg Load & Infl tables and other data can be found HERE.

Published a couple blog posts on TPMS Accuracy. First one compares the pressure accuracy of 12 sensors on a single pressure chamber. The second one looks at the Temperature reports in cool ambient after I left Perry. I will be posting next week on the result when it is cold. We will have to wait until July for warm to Hot temperatures

Thanks for the feedback. Am checking out the MobileInternetInfo.com link and info. I am thinking that my normal usage would be in campgrounds or similar where there is WiFi but the signal is weak. Last week at Perry I was not able to connect to the offered WiFi just using my laptop. I do have one of those inexpensive USB "antenna" things similar to THIS one, mine was even less expensive but it does work. I could point it out my window and I could then connect most of the time but the signal would occasionally drop. Been thinking of attaching a directional antenna on my TV antenna post. I could then raise it and rotate the antenna to get the strongest signal. Drop the wire into the RV and have a small router in the RV, I have a Class-C and the TV connection and power is in the overhead area so that would be a good location for the low power router. We never watch TV. Would the coax that I currently have on the external TV antenna be OK to connect an external WiFi antenna to a router in the coach? This would avoid having to run another cable. I know that sometimes this stuff requires specific cabling so just asking. I do understand the security concerns but WiFi in the RV is not something I use for critical or sensitive stuff. My passwords are over 8 characters, letter, number and special characters included and my routers require password too.

I have been reviewing a number of videos and blog posts (not FMCA forum posts) touting various hardware to improve WiFi reception when at a campground or other locations where WiFi is "available" in the area but reception is poor. This might even include a Pilot fuel stop, McDonald's parking lot or similar location. Various combinations of external directional antenna wired to a router you would mount inside the RV are suggested. I note that "system" costs run $13 to $300 but I don't see any reliable data on the signal improvements achieved or "bang for the buck" I know there are apps that can report on signal strength so data strength with and without a system, should not be that difficult to learn and report but I haven't found independent reports. Where are the Tech geeks with hard data or even amateurs who have taken the plunge with A vs B data? We should be able to "crowdsource" some meaningful data. I would think that some "Best in Class" suggestions for various systems <$50, $100 - $150, and $300+ might be a good start.

I have a number of blog posts that mention "Corner" weights HERE HERE is a link to a worksheet on how to do the calculations once you get on a scale. THIS web site has info on where you can find truck scales. While it is a 5th wheel site the info is still valuable. If you are ever traveling on I76 East of Akron OH Here is a small company that has a scale and will allow one side of an axle weighing. You will need to drop your toad as the exit turn is sharp. Call 330.633.3282 first. You can GPS 50 Southeast Ave, Tallmadge, OH or use N41° 05.985' W81° 26.328'. 2.4 mi off Exit 29 of I-76 NOTE I-76 Exit #29 has Summit Racing for the car enthusiast. .

Dan, I Really liked the App. One minor tweak needed. My Android phone would not allow me to properly view the section of the map that showed the meeting room numbers. I could move the map and zoom but as soon as I stopped zooming it zoomed back to the home view. I compared this with an I phone and they could hold the zoomed view. Having a map with room numbers is critical for people to know where they need to be. With this app, I never consulted or needed the printed map (other than I cut out the small section with room numbers to carry in my pocket. One other question. Is there some way to shut off notifications other than removing the app? I kept getting notifications even on the trip home to Ohio on Sunday afternoon ( I had to leave early due to appointments Tuesday AM) As i was scheduled to deliver 6 seminars and monitor 3 others the "My Schedule was GREAT.

Good plan. I have written a few times on my RVTireSafety.net blog on the advantages of tire covers and the importance of keeping tires cool. I use white vinyl type on my Class-C. I have also run a test on the "screen" type and IMO the screen type does not have to be white to keep the tires cool as air can circulate between the screen and the tires. I know of no spray on "protectant" that keeps a tire cool as a white cover or screen can. I also do not recall ever seeing any of the mfg of the various sprays providing data on independent test results.

New info. My unit is Safe-T-Alert 35-742 Online at the company website , I found info on how to read the light color / flash code. The code indicated Unit Malfunction. Further reading on RV Forums I saw a mention of low voltage. It ran the furnace fan so I didn't think about battery but Checked and my coach battery was very low (11.70 v) So I am now more comfortable about using the furnace. The battery is on charge and will spend a few minutes in Perry to check the CO alarm. Have decided to keep the battery CO alarm as I placed that one at the recommended shoulder height in the sleeping area. Who knew that reading the instructions would be of value. See you in Perry. Stop in, say at one of my 2 RV Tire Seminars or one of the 4 Genealogy Seminars.

Put the new detector on the floor 6" from the original chirping one. Pressed the test button on got a double chirp. kept furnace on for 30 min. Tested the new battery powered detector. Each time I get a test chirp but the rest of the time it is silent. IMO the OE hard-wired detector went bad. Have removed it. Will contact the mfg re warranty. For the trip to Perry will rely on electric heaters and mattress heater till I can talk with Atwood furnace rep. if they are there.

Will run to local Lowes to get a house CO detector. This would be battery unit but comparison would identify if my current RV detector is faulty.