tireman9

At Lenoir City SW of Knoxville Totality for us starts 2:32:42 EDT and ends 2:34:40 just a bit later than Lebanon. This site is great as it uses Google Earth so I can check our location to within 5m so know exact time and duration.

Ya draining is not possible. But I have one of those cleaning tubes that flushes lots of water deep inside the tank so I do get all the sediment out. Of course the salad croutons float for a while then they get soggy and sink so I have to squirt a bit more to get them out the drain.

OK guys. Thanks for the ideas and recipe for salad dressing. We are in TN right now awaiting the Eclipse tomorrow. We should have 2:30 of totality (behind the clouds that are sure to blow in over-night). Anyway I take it from the suggestions you feel that my flush didn't get rid of whatever is causing the sulfur smell. Just drained the tank and found the Hot Rod has some crust on it (mineral residue.) Fresh water from CG now in the hot tank so no smell so far but I know the tank still needs good cleaning with vinegar / Hydrogen perox. Wayne's link was actually helpful. Not sure if he intended that or if he wants to give answers more along the line of Herman's. Seriously... The link gives the Vinegar/water proportion and I can do that. Will drain tank and clean the HotRod then add appropriate amount of Vinegar then fill tank from water at home. Will also flush the lines with air as if winterizing while I am at it will be sure to drain holding tank too. (get as much potentially contaminated water out as possible. Next time I won't be lazy but will drain water if not going out within a couple weeks. Thanks to all - Except Herman of course.

Last year I was at campground in Goshen. Connected to their water. Didn't notice any issues but a few weeks later at W. Springfield I noticed a strong sulfur smell from hot water. At the time I thought the problem was from the Goshen water. Drained and flushed hot tank and problem went away. or so I thought. This year, as in the past, I filled tanks with water from home (good city water with no odor issues) Went to Indy and no issues. I did not drain hot or cold water Did a test and both cold & hot three days ago and had no obvious odor. Note I did not heat the water before the test. This morning at CG in KY after hot water heater was on we get strong sulfur smell but only from hot water. Heater is Atwood 6 gal. I am using a "Hot-Rod" electric water heater. Have used this heater for years with no problems. ALL water run into the RV goes through a Camco water filter. Suggestions appreciated

At work we had test chamber 12" reinforced concrete + 1/4" steel plate on tire side. Also to lower explosive force tire was filled mostly with water. This left lower volume of air to expand with explosive force. Could test up to 1,000 psi. I worked 5 floors up and we could hear the boom when they did a test.

This is why you should not inflate large tires from 0 psi. I would not consider any of these folks true "professionals"

Herman, for you they probably give a 1% discount

There is almost always some lower cost tire available. At least lower cost with initial purchase. One thing many forget when selecting a brand is availability of either warranty support or of just finding an identical tire if you get a puncture and just need a replacement. "Mud-Wumper-4" bought from "Billy-Jo-Bob's Cheap tire and Bait Emporium" may be low cost but you may not find anyone else that stocks the Mud Wumper line and it will cost you an extra $200 for shipping a tire across country.

At the pressures most Class-A RVs run I doubt that you will see any difference in ride with a change if tire Load Range if you don't increase the inflation. I know for a fact that in some cases it is possible to change Load Range of a tire with the only change being the bead wire which will have zero impact on ride.

I know that many call it "grease" but it is definitely NOT stuff like axle grease. I have seen some folks suggest WD-40, Pledge Windex etc but some of these alternatives in addition to not "sticking" the tire to the wheel can actually damage the tire. "Murphy's oil soap" is a vegetable based lubricant. It is available in a thick past in a bucket (probably where some thought it was grease). It is water soluble. It is also available in a lighter liquid form in many grocery stores for cleaning wood floors etc. There are a number of similar products sold specifically for mounting tires at NAPA, AutoZone, O"rilly;s etc. I have seen some independent tire stores trying to cut corners that use non-tire specific lubricants. A number of years ago I even recall a tire & wheel assy factory letting the bean counters select a lower cost and soap option that ended up with a recall as tires would go out of balance. If you seem to have a vibration issue that keeps re-occurring marking your tire and checking for slip is a good way to check. Zero slip is what you should see. You might get a bit more if you jam on brakes when tires are first mounted but normally I would expect less than 1/2" at most.

Just published a post on Front tire failure and possible things to do to maintain vehicle control on my RV Tire blog.

IMO that amount of "rim slip" is excessive. Wonder what they are using for tire mounting lube. The good stuff is designed to be slipery when wet but to actually be sticky when dry

Yes tire / rubber failure can occur at 200F and above but your TPMS is not going to tell you the temperature of the hot spot. I suggest you stay with the 158F +20% pressure cold to hot is not too unusual.

Realities of tire design Features that deliver Smooth and quiet ride work against traction Improved Traction will almost always hurt fuel economy

Best advice I can give about driving speed is to think of the speed rating of tires as you would would think about engine red line. While it may be possible to run just under the max speed rating of a tire you will most likely see shorter tire life. Is it good to run for hours on end at 93% of engine Redline? I read a lot of questions or complaints about tires not lasting as long as the owner wants but I don't hear anyone acknowledging that they made the decision to run near the limit for load and speed. No I can't tell you that every hour at 70 cuts the life of your tires by a day or a week out of the possible 10 year life but I am certain it will have some negative affect.

Tire & wheel pressure ratings are based on cold inflation, not hot running pressure. What is the warning level for TST? is it only 15% below the baseline or set pressure? IMO its a good idea to get a warning before you hit the MOP.

I have only heard of one large RV tire with a rating higher than L and as I recall it was an M (81) I strongly suggest you stay below 70 mph unless you also run 200 RPM above your engine red line a lot.

Load Range in large RV tires is a letter F, G, H, J Speed rating in RV application is 75 mph which is Symbol "L" Read all the words associated with various letter symbols.

Based on questions I received after my tire seminars in Indy and some statements overheard at various TPMS vendor booths and in other seminars, I decided to offer a detailed example of how I set my TPMS for those that might be wondering how to get the best possible "early warning" from their system. HERE is the link to my blog with all the details for those interested.

The size comparison web page is interesting but IMO it is not a substitute for printed (or web page) dimensions from the tire manufacturer. Tire "size" is a generic goal and all tires have some variation. Sometimes the variation in one dimension can be significant for one tire design because it might have been designed in Europe to meet a different application. I am aware of some tires being "tweeked" to fit a specific application. I also note that a critical dimension "Minimum Dual spacing" is not provided by the web page. It might be ok to use the page for a quick check but I would NOT rely on it for final, actual dimensions.

Sometimes there are marketing decisions that dictate who sells or advertises certain products to different markets. For a variety of reasons some companies would rather not be confronted with the problems of improper maintenance (low inflation & overload) seen on too many RVs. Some are making the conscious decision to go after the "niche" market of RV application. IMO many "truck" tire would work satisfactorily in RV application. Some tire companies do identify generic types of service as more applicable to different designs. For RV service it is generally suggested "all position" and "delivery" or "regional haul" or similar service. While "Bus" may seem similar to RV it really isn't as many Bus tires are speed limited and have extra tread depth (increased cost) for in city service.

I bought Tire Traker system after review of features. Easy set-up (15 to 20 min max), replaceable sensor batteries, Lifetime warranty and no power cables to monitor along with multiple warning levels had me sold. I especially like the "Morning Reset" mode that gives me readings without having to move the coach to get readings. Just turn on, hit buttons and 15 to 20 min later after i finish my coffee I have my tire pressure readings. I have a new post on my blog scheduled for Tuesday on how I program my TPMS.

If you unknowingly (no TPMS warning) operated the tires at significant loss of air, that is not the fault of the tire company.

Didn't Lazy Days set-up the TPMS? or were they just too lazy (sorry could not resist). If you really had only 58 psi the TPMS is set wrong as it should have warned no lower than -15% to -25% from your baseliine pressure (Cold tire inflation) If they screwed on the sensor it is possible they created a leak. Since your TPM is giving you a reading I suggest you review the instructions and confirm the inflation. If only 58 then call service and tell them the tire was operated when "flat". This is a real safety issue. Steel body tires can explode (zipper failure) when being re-inflated.

Don't think so 58 kpa = 8 psi 58 psi is 400 kpa