ziggyh

Not so sure the power cord reels have a fuse, they use a drum and copper strips as contacts and quite often fail I would remove side cover and check for voltage carefully or ohm out the unit and wires from the plug end to the connection terminals. Or do you mean the 12 volts for the motor?

oneway, did the last tech install a new start capacitor with a new PTCR and try to see if the compressor starts. If you only replace the start capacitor with out changing the PTC it will damage the new start capacitor. Before I would be looking at the price of a new AC unit I replace the start capacitor and PTCR and the run capacitor just in case it has failed as well. Also checking the resistance of the compressor coil may not be the best diagnostic step, If a coil is open, the resistance test will find it, If a coil is shorting the resistance test may not find it because the accuracy of the Ohm meter is not capable of reading very low Ohms accurately. Coils can also measure good with an Ohm meter but when power is applied to them the wires contract which over time causes shorting of the coils causing high amp draws. The compressor can also seize up and a resistance test will not pinpoint that. If you do want to check resistances of the compressor coils, you have a second working unit to compare to. I have replace many start and run capacitors on residential and RV a/c units and motors when people were told they need a new unit and the capacitors have always fixed it issue.

When we had our propane fridge we ran on propane when driving, never had a problem. Keep the burner clean once a year. We have since replaced the propane with a residential. While travelling, we leave the fridge off for about 3 hours and then cycle on the inverter for 1/2 an hour. Some times when we are on a return home trip the fridge is left off for 3-4 hours and when we get home and empty the fridge the ice has not even begun showing any signs of melting. If your worried about the fridge getting to warm when it is off you could always put one of those remote wireless temperature sensors inside and monitor the temperature.

Replace the Ptc and the start capacitor as a set. Usually fixes the problem. The run capacitor usually don't fail that often. If you have an electric motor repair shop near buy, they can usually measure the fan run and compressor run capacitors if you remove them and bring them to them. Besides capacitors shorting and blowing there case open which is obvious to see, they can also dry up and loose there capacitance so measuring them is the next best way to tell if they are bad. The run capacitors usually cost 8-12 dollars from a electrical motor supply/repair shop.

The ptc is what needs to be replaced with the start cap. The burnt part is the ptc. From the picture it looks like you have Coleman Mach series of AC unit. You should always replace them as a set in my mind.

The start cap is easy to replace, many AC units also have a PTC or timer relay. In the case of the PTC they usually burn up and need to be replaced. They usually come as a kit and some manufactures call them a hard start kit. They usually burn up when the line voltage dips down to about 104 volts. The condenser fan will run but the compressor will no start ,just hums and draws high Amps till the therminal protection cuts out. Some times you can smell a burning smell when they fail. When you remove the cover for the electrical connections where the capacitor is you may find 3 capacitors, 1 start, 1 run and one for the condenser fan. Sometimes the start and run capacitor is one unit and will have 3 terminals on it instead of 2. The burnt PTC and capacitor is usually easy to spot. I would buy a second kit if you have 2 AC units, mine failed with in a year of each other and I now carry a spair. They can be purchased for some units from camping world or RV parts supply as well as from electrical motor repair places. The last option is usually the cheapest.

I have been using locks for the last 6 years, they are a brass body and I occasionally lightly spraying them with rust check in the red can and have had very little problems getting them off.

Do you have a panel from which you can start the generator or just a start stop switch. The Oman energy command 30 is a popular controller with that gen set. That would do what you want but as already mentioned the A/C units would also have to support that function. Might be worth checking the info on the AC units and wiring diagram.

rscomier, What series Michelins do you have, the X coach series in the 295/80 are rated at 8270 Lbs. vs 7830 Lbs. single. also the Tire RPM, ( rotations per mile ) may be a factor with speedo calibration.

ARD Cleaning procedures for reference . ard.pdf

2stroker, you mentioned the relief valve in the filter head, there are 2 valves in the filter head, one is a by pass for the oil filter should it become restricted and the other is a by pass for the oil cooler, the valve in the pump controles the pressure.

Brett, I didn't check if the valve and spring was available separately. The bore in the pump looked like new as well as the rest of it, I didn't bother to do any wear measurements on the pump. The pump body is aluminum. I had purchased a reman pump before I took the old one out and then inspected the old pump before returning it for the core credit. With the old pump my oil pressure cold would intermittently spike to 130-150 on a mechanical test gauge and then drop to a few pounds for a second and then return to normal. With the new pump on cold startup and using cat 10w-30 deo at 30 deg f the pressure is 90-100 psi, I have since switched to 10w-30 t5 and the cold pressure is the same.

I also had that problem with the oil pressure spilking high ang low on startup when cold, the cause I had was the regulator valve in the oil pump sticking because the valve was scored. The pump had 900 hours on it. The oil filter o-ring will blow out with high pressures over 130

I had the same thing happen on my Fleetwood, it was caused by me turning off my breaker for my washer/dryer. I had turned the breaker off because I had winterized the washer and we camp till the weather is just below freezing and start up again in the early spring. Every time I was plugged into 50 amp the monitor would indicate 30amp. Now I just unplug the washer when it's winterized.

As previously indicated a 2017 and 2016 build has two options, wheel end or diff mounted, the actuation can be hands actuated or foot. The hand actuation system has a cable adjustment which requires the use of a special service tool on the cable pictured below. The shoes are also adjustable within the drum. The hand actuation system goes with the diff mount brake Correct cable tension for adjustment of an existing cable is 365 to 415 lb. The cable adjustment for the foot actuation is automatic, it's integral of the pedal assembly. The wheel end unit or drum-in-hat has adjustable shoes. shoes in both systems are adjusted by rotating the adjuster through the access hole in the backing plate till the shoes drag and then back off till the drag just stops, do not over adjust The 2015 chassis had a trans mounted shoe and drum, mounted on the trans and fluid filled. They were adjusted by removing and rotating the clevis clockwise removing slack in the cable at the trans end.