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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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Take note, the ice cube "trick" does not work to clean a tank, sensors-perhaps, as ice floats. When one thinks about it, dumping 20# of ice cubes into 20G of tap water(1/2 tank) pretty much insures the ice will quickly melt.
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We both love lobster, this was one of them:
Would that be a balanced meal?
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The trick is to inflate to 10% over your minimum air pressure as listed in the load/inflation chart. This eliminates the situation you have now, according to Tireman9. As long as your tire pressures are above minimum, no worries.
Personally, I use the tire pressures listed on the Federal Tire Placard inside the vehicle, and never have to be concerned about altitude or temperature.
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I think an ISC requires 2 950 CCA batteries.I also have Interstate SLA starting batteries.
Today's AGM batteries may be charged alongside LA batteries, although the charging rates are slightly different. The downside is, you cannot equalize AGM batteries, which means the lead acid batteries on the same charger circuit cannot be equalized.
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6 hours ago, bowtie said:Know that this is catastrophic insurance. It will never pay back for normal wear and tear and normal breakdowns. It will only pay off if you have major engine, power train, electrical, or chassis stuff. Also, most of this stuff is factory covered for some time, so extending that only pays off if you're sure you will have it that long. All that being said, a major failure costing $10 - $20k is not unrealistic, so piece of mind and major cost avoidance may be worth it.
Also, my Good Sam policy covers per visit. So you can save up minor stuff that can be put off and have them all repaired a one time with one claim and one deductible.
Les
wholesalewarranties.com does pay claims due to wear and tear when diagnosed as such, it's standard. I just got off the phone with a rep an hour ago. He is emailing me the quote for coverage including their exclusionary contract terms.
We bought a Camping World/GS ESC when we purchased this MH, it more than paid for itself, including deductibles.
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Perhaps the inverter/charger accidentally got turned off? As to one thing causing the step and camera problems; over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground.
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Final outcome/update. I talked with the owner of the HDT repair shop, who now also advertises they also do MH chassis work. He said the spring brake canisters are not the problem, nor is diff. oil level, he said if I was using the service brakes a lot, that can cause higher temps from the inner duals, simply because the TPS unit is confined between the duals.
BTW, the starboard side inner dual alerted the same over-temp reading when we got home, that would be the lower(road crown) side dual, kinda refutes the low diff oil theory.
I topped off the diff. to bottom of hole with 85/140 oil, JIC anyway.
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On 9/13/2019 at 10:36 PM, kaypsmith said:Sorry for the misunderstanding, can you get one of those snake type cameras to go far enough back into area where the coax separated. If so, an improvised tool to hold the coax end in place while a similar tool to force the new coax on the new camera to push back together. Usually a stiff wire can be formed to make this happen.
I now forget where, but I once saw a flexible remote camera with a grabber on the end, like the grabber made to retrieve a dropped nut from a small hole. Wonder if one may be rented?
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On 9/12/2019 at 7:20 AM, ktconners said:Yes that assumption is dead on. When I take a flashlight it goes straight down for maybe a foot, foot and a half, then slopes down just slightly to the left. Everything looks clear now. Maybe some paper was stuck in there, not sure.
Do you have 2 black tanks or the full bath's toilet ran to the tank underneath the half-bath? I assumed the half-bath was the long run to the black tank.
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Lyle, a farmers favorite tools are a hammer and roll of bailing wire.
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7 hours ago, desertdeals69 said:Sounds like you have corrosion at the wire connections. I would check all the ground connections to the frame and then check all the plugins, spray with contact cleaner.
I agree. Over 80% of all 12v problems are the result of a poor/missing ground. In this case I suspect this is the root problem, something else is making the ground connection because the intended ground is poor/missing.
Did I mention I hate 12VDC problems?
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That's not much different than FMCA/Saferide, which has a $500 limit for winch-outs.
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Processing used cooking oil has been ongoing for at least 10 years. One man/full-timer on escapees hauls his own processing equipment along; collects used cooking oil from restaurants in a special tank on his class 8 truck, then processes it at a campsite. This became so popular restaurants began charging for their used oil instead of paying to have it hauled away.
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5 hours ago, jleamont said:I soon realized the TPMS sensor was getting hot from the brakes (they were located between the wheels then) and not from the actual tire. My over sized fire apparatus brake lining probably escalated the heat. I moved them back to the outer duals now for accessibility with solid extensions like I had set up before.
Mine did the same thing, I posted here a few months ago about it. I called my local HDT and RV service center and asked why the high temp alarms. The owner told me not to worry is was the brakes heating up from the stop N go driving I was in at Pigeon Forge.
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IMO it is the sewage line instead of the toilet that is backing up. It can be 1 or more of 3 things, too much TP being flushed at once, sewage line has inadequate fall, not enough flushing water used, or a combination of the 3.
If you can reach that sewage line, insure coach is level, then use a digital level which had a degree of slope setting, or manually measure fall.
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5 hours ago, manholt said:Use Biobor, and change filters a lot...time consuming, but a lot cheaper than option 1 or 2. Joe L. wrote an excellent story on this, 2 years ago, his own experience!
Since 1oz treats 80G diesel fuel, and klparker has 70G in his tank, and it might take 3 filter changes to get through that 70G; @ $3/gal for diesel, it may be a wash, empty tank or buy Biobor @ $14.26 + at least 3 changes of filters, then clean the tank of slime remaining on surfaces exposed. At today's diesel prices, $3/G roughly, disposing of 70G will cost about $250. He can always find a farmer who wants free diesel fuel to burn brush piles.
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2 hours ago, jleamont said:Driving down the road the my Alternator switches between chassis and house batteries. The batteries I run are a direct replacement for a flooded acid battery which means they can withstand the charge rate of the alternator which isn't uncommon in today's AGM. No AGM will take an Equalization charge kindly, which my alternator is NOT capable of producing. When parked the inverter charges both banks but not at the same time. My inverter is set to AGM so it will not go into an Equalization cycle.
Over the road sleeper tractors are also set up this way when they have Hybrid or Battery powered APU's, very common amongst that industry to have flooded to start the engine and AGM on the APU.
Thank you for explaining.
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To my knowledge there is no way to run algae-contaminated fuel through the engine. It must be removed prior to the injector pump = fuel filters. Once you have killed algae in the fuel tank it still must be removed. There are 2 options for that, one is fuel polishing, but at today's low diesel prices IMO it will be cheaper to#2 option- have the tank drained and cleaned.
I would become adept at changing fuel filters, and carry 2 of each for spares when traveling, until you have captured all remaining black stuff.
To greatly reduce the chance of this re-occurring, keep your fuel tank full when in storage, and only buy fuel at high-volume/turnover stations. Normal air temperature changes cause condensation in a partially filled fuel tank, which then settles to the bottom, where "algae" may grow between the water and fuel. A full tank has very little vacant space for condensation to form.
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On 9/9/2019 at 8:49 AM, jleamont said:Campalot, Welcome to the FMCA forums!
To answer your question, yes. I have our coach set up like that for three years now.
How does that work? AGM batteries require a different charging pattern than standard lead/acid batteries. I'm wanting to do what you did, but from everything I've read about AGM batteries vs lead/acid I would have to have 2 different chargers. I run the equalize charge function about once each 3 months for both house and chassis battery banks, AGM batteries cannot be equalized, how would I handle that?
Take a peek at both these links and you quickly see why I'm confused. https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm
https://surplusbattery.com/batteryimg/10_facts_about_agm_batteries.html
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8 hours ago, robertsmellis said:I have a similar experience that makes me certain I will not be re-upping my membership in Roadside Assistance.
I was on I-81 and got a Low Coolant warning on the dash of my 40-foot diesel pusher. We pulled over and tried to fill the coolant reservoir but I was unable to get the cap off because of the tight location. I called Roadside Assistance and the woman told me she would try to find someone to come out. She called back in 25 minutes to say there was no one within a 50 mile radius who was willing to do this. Her next suggestion left me flabbergasted. She said she could send out a tow truck to bring my rig in to be fixed. I told her I needed a pair of strong hands not a tow truck but she said there was nobody who could help. Now, we were within 70 miles of Washington, D.C., not in the boondocks.
I told her to forget it. I couldn't believe she would even suggest towing as an option. So I unhooked my tow car and drove to the next town, 12 miles away and purchased a channel lock pliers and a funnel, returned to the rig and performed the necessary fix on my own.
The notion that there is no roadside service in a basically suburban area tells me the FMCA Roadside Assistance program is essentially useless and I will not be renewing this.
Were this me, I would have already called FMCA membership services and voiced by concerns.
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On 9/6/2019 at 12:02 PM, tireman9 said:I prefer to say 10% as people who read my posts may have 65 psi LR-D ST type tires or may have 22.5 tires rated for 120psi. Don't exceed the max inflation rating of the wheel or tire with the cold pressure. Since tire pressure changes about 2% for each 10F change in ambient a 10% tolerance covers 50F ambient change which should get you through a few weeks travel without having to fiddle with air pressure. You don't need the 10% every travel day. I just want you to have to spend less time messing with tire pressure than necessary.
It may help if you read THIS blog post on how I set my TPMS to ensure adequate inflation pressure but also minimize the times I need to add air. If you start with +10% you really don't need to add air till you get down to only a couple psi above your minimum needed inflation.
My reason for the question was back on Aug 9 2012 reply you stated 5 psi. Thanks for the clarification.
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Excellent article Roger!
I do not monitor actual temperature reading, as you said they are not reliable nor accurate. I do monitor for any substantial difference between readings for all wheels. I use the minimum temperature alarm setting/default setting for the TST system, 158°F. This will sound an alarm for one wheel, but long before it becomes threatening, which is my reasoning.
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Don the electric motor will/should run regardless if the cylinder is connected on either end. First thing to do is as desertdeals requested, test the 12V motor for proper operation. If it runs you are left with mechanical breakdown-re' the loose screws you found.
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FWIW, Meritor makes an air silencer for the air dryer system, and it's not a wooden box.
Winnebago to buy Newmar
in General Discussion
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As Paul Harvey used to say, " and now the rest of the story":
http://www.startribune.com/winnebago-industries-makes-340m-deal-to-buy-luxury-rv-maker/560485492/?refresh=true
It isn't a done deal yet!