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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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A friend lived a few miles North of Van, TX. He really liked the area, however it's not close to shopping. My first visit, I was surprised to see an oil well in the front yard of the church.
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On 5/26/2018 at 3:48 PM, NanMWright said:OK.
My mechanic thanks you. And I'm always happier with high end equipment, except when I have to pay the bill.
Nan
It''s my understanding this 'death wobble" thing only happens to Jeep products with electric power steering, if yours has hydraulic power steering that wobble does not happen.
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Today's clearcoat lasts much better than it did a few decades ago. I just keep our MH washed and touch-up paint dings and scratches as necessary, however our MH is always garaged when we are home.
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On 11/19/2018 at 6:05 PM, wolfe10 said:Ray,
Same for the ISL.
I replaced mine (cracked exhaust manifold). Plenty of penetrating oil and gently persuasion and all the bolts came out.
Look for both cracks and if the crack is bad enough, for black deposits (soot from exhaust escaping).
I had to have a HDT repair shop do the work, a 76 yr old man with COPD has no business standing on his head attempting to remove and replace anything, especially when you can't even see the bottom manifold bolts. 😞 The mechanic had to remove both pieces of the manifold and remove one with the turbo attached, then use a torch to heat the turbo bolts so they would't break, 2 manifold bolts did, which contributed to the total repair cost @$135/hr.
I had removed the entire bed framework and covered the carpeting with wall-to-wall carpet protector film for ease of access. Shop owner said I was the only one to ever have that consideration for the mechanic. It was really the MH and bill that concerned me.
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The Cummins ISC engine is known for cracked/broken exhaust manifolds. Remove the engine cover in the rear(bedroom) of the coach, use a flashlight to inspect the exhaust manifold and turbocharger where it mounts onto the manifold for black streaks, which is a telltale sign of an exhaust leak, and obvious cracks in the manifold.
I had my broken manifold replaced last August, total bill was $3,1xx dollars. The new style Cummins manifold is heavier and thicker, as the entire weight of the turbocharger and associated piping is supported by the manifold. I haven't noticed any mileage change, but the increase in power is obvious.
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On 11/15/2018 at 2:12 PM, F433921 said:Make sure you used bleach that doesn't contain any detergents. I made that mistake and it too for ever to get the suds out of the system.
I used hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach the last time.
Jim
Hydrogen peroxide for disinfecting an RV fresh water tank:
"There is much rumor and myth in the RV world that you can disinfect a fresh water tank using hydrogen peroxide (the stuff you can buy off-the-shelf at the store). The bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide that you likely have in your RV or house won’t do the job—it is not a strong enough solution. Even if you could fill the fresh water tank with the 3% hydrogen peroxide, it wouldn’t do the disinfecting job you need.
The higher concentrate required to complete the disinfectant is only sold to authorized recipients—chemical companies, school systems, industry, etc.—and is only available at chemical-supply houses. That concentrate may be as high as 50%—significantly stronger than the off-the-shelf bottle available at your local store. Plus, when using the highly-concentrated solution, there is a specific process required to neutralize the level of hydrogen peroxide after disinfecting to make the tank safe for normal usage. I won’t go into that process here."
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12 hours ago, rsbilledwards said:Your senses are working correctly. That would be my thought as well. Vibrations in the steering wheel/column usually indicate the front end and in the seat the rear. Thump Thump when a truck goes by or is being passed means get the devil out of the way. It would be no different with your rig except you are going to pay the repair bill and suffer the fright when it lets go.
X2!
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On 11/14/2018 at 7:14 AM, richard5933 said:Seems to be some confusion in this thread. A two-stage regulator and an auto changeover regulator are NOT the same thing.
Single-Stage Regulator
A single stage regulator is one that adjusts the pressure inside the tank to a usable pressure in one step. As the pressure in the tank changes due to temperature or the amount of fuel in the tank, the outlet pressure will vary. Towards the tail end of the tank the outlet pressure will drop, and for some appliances this lowered pressure can create problems, particularly for appliances which are fussier and don't tolerate low pressure situations. Some countries no longer permit installation of single stage regulators in RVs due to increased danger from failure.Two-Stage Regulator
A two-stage regulator adjusts the pressure out of the tank to a usable pressure in two steps. The output pressure will remain more stable regardless of the fuel level in the tank. The first stage does the bulk of the pressure reduction, and then the final stage fine tunes the low pressure output to a level usable by the appliances inside the RV. There is some increased safety on a two-stage regulator, since the first stage does the majority of the work and the low pressure side (with the more delicate parts) isn't being asked to handle the high input pressure coming from the tank. There is also some evidence that a two-stage regulator will last longer.Auto Changeover Regulator
These are designed for situations in which two tanks are present. As the pressure in one tank drops below a usable level, the auto changeover regulator will automatically change the input from the empty tank to the full tank. This can be convenient since the operator doesn't have to go outside and manually switch from one tank to the other. Usually a flag or other indicator will appear so that you know one tank is empty. If you inspect your tanks daily, you'd see that one tank is empty and be able to get it filled before the other is empty. However, if you just let the system operate until both tanks are empty then there is no advantage to having an auto changeover regulator. Might as well just leave the valves on both tanks open on a traditional single or two stage regulator and run the system until both tanks are empty.Safety Warning
Each tank should have a valve which can be used to switch between tanks. Simply close the valve on the first (empty) tank and open the valve on the second. By installing a T with two ball valves, you're introducing needless hardware and many more potential leaks. There should be no need to install extra shut-off valves, except for situations were the shut-off valves are difficult to access. (And that in itself would be a safety concern - shut off valves should always be accessible.) Also, the ball valves used for gas applications are not the same as used for water plumbing. If you are going to install ball valves, be certain that you buy ball valves rated for use with LP. They should be marked on the label._______________________________________________________________
The difference in cost between a single-stage regulator and a two-stage regulator is minimal. A good quality two-stage regulator can be purchased for about $30. If there is room in the storage bay for the two-stage regulator, I can't think of a good reason not to use one. It will provide a more stable output pressure, and will provide a higher level of safety.
The auto changeover regulators can be more expensive. Whether they are worth the expense only depends on how valuable it is to you to have an indicator show when the first tank is emptied and the tank switches over to the second tank. I monitor my tanks daily when using LP. It's as simple as looking at the gauge on each tank to see what the fuel level is. If I miss the first tank emptying, the worst case would be having to relight my appliances. Alternatively, I can just open the valves on both tanks and let them run, but then they'd both be empty at the same time. If I run only one tank at a time I can take the empty to be filled while the other runs the heat.
Re-read the link I provided; it is a two-stage, automatic changeover regulator.
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We purchased this MH from a man who had stored it in his barn for 8 years due to illness (on consignment). We figured things would break and fail after sitting all that time, and bought a 3 yr inclusionary ESC.w/ gaskets and seal rider. It paid for itself during the contract period, including deductibles.
Now on a different RVing forum, a man had had his Cummins 650HP engine drop the valves in #6 cylinder. The total repair bill was $30,000, he did not have an ESC.
Without the gaskets and seals rider, everything that happens due to a failed gasket or seal is NOT covered, it's called consequential damage.
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ISPJS, I really like your signature quote, it is an exact fit to today's political shenanigans. Keep the snakes around, they will control the mouse problem, just look before you step out the door.
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12 hours ago, acousticart said:The park model trailer at our home base has two of the tall LP tanks and within the space of two years, we have had the Auto Changeover LP regulator fail. Rather than buying another one of these fifty dollar disposables, I am considering getting two single two stage regulators and 'T'ing them in. I don't really see a downside since we don't use there auto change over function anyway and the original LP regulator on our 99' Foretravel still works. A bit of web searching on reviews on different brands at Amazon indicates that these Auto Changeover LP regulators are problematic. One side of the regulator or the other failing to pass gas (we all know how painful that can be
) even when the tanks are full. I can only surmise that there is a delicate mechanism that gets gummed up or? Anyway, the price of two single regulators is about the same as one of the auto changeover ones. I am assuming of course that the standard single two stage regulators have a check valve in them so you can unhook a tank without letting a bunch of air in the system when taking a tank off to get filled... can anybody confirm this?
Read this description of a 2 stage regulator: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Marshall-2-Stage-Automatic-Changeover-Regulator-p/66-9377.htm
" Cylinder Exchange: Prior to removing the empty cylinder, position the black changeover lever so that it points to the alternate cylinder that is now supplying the regulator. Close the valve on the empty cylinder and remove. After the empty cylinder is refilled and reconnected, slowly open the cylinder valve. The new cylinder is now the reserve cylinder. The indicator at the top of the regulator will turn green."
This is the regulator that came OEM for our last 5er w/ 2 30# cylinders. I followed the directions and never had a leak when the empty was removed - IF i had the black lever in the correct position.
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I suspect the pump valve head is faulty or clogged. Replacement parts are widely available.
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On 11/11/2018 at 9:28 AM, rsbilledwards said:After thinking about the question it appears she wants to install a receptacle ie. a duplex on the passenger side of the coach and wants to know where to pull (get) the power from. But as usual she has not been back to clarify, maybe even look. Not all that difficult as there are or is at least one or should be a receptacle in the basement. Where ever the power comes from it needs to be downstream of a GFCI. The other question that begs an answer it it 120 volt or 12 volt. If it is 12 volt there is no GFCI involved and that power is all over the place. The other consideration should be how big is the draw or said another way what kind of use is this duplex going to be servicing. Another thing that would help is to know the model of the 2002 Monaco coach.
One of the ramifications of not subscribing to posts one makes is forgetting all about where and when you posted.
Bill, when we were shopping for a MH, we looked at a 1999 Panther, the interior was all cedar wood, and it was powered by a 525HP C15. Talked with my son-in-law who is maintenance supervisor for a coast to coast trucking company. He said it was a good engine, but I would be disappointed in mileage, to expect 6 mpg at most. We didn't buy it because of a long-term water leak just aft of the entry door.
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Well, if the OP hasn' t got rid of the mice in the last 8 years since their original question, nothing will. For those using home-remedies, read this: https://www.jcehrlich.com/mice/myth-busting-natural-mice-repellents/
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On 7/25/2018 at 11:19 PM, manholt said:Then there is the ion lithium, same ah at 1/3 the weight + 10 years! Unfortunately $$$$ and no place for disposal that I know off. Suppose to be EPA mandatory in 2020!
I agree, the best was asked for, and Lithium is the best.
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I read the post as asking where to pull power from to install a curb-side outlet/receptacle. Clarification is badly needed.
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You want other options; check out Happy Camper discount club. It's also a 50% discount club, and nearly exactly like PPA. Of course there is always Thousand Trails, and other similar organizations. FMCA, Escapees, Good Sam, etc are all 10% discount.
ALL discounts come with some restrictions, even Thousand Trails.
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And those 2 replies are the end of the story, nothing left to know.
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On 10/18/2018 at 5:41 AM, hermanmullins said:If you have Farm Bureau in your area give them a call. We get a very competitive rate from them on both the farm and the vehicles.
Herman
Everything except our MH is insured through Indiana Farm Bureau Ins. Their rates for our MH were excessive( near $2,000/.yr), so I stayed with Winnebago Ins.( AMCO Insurance Co)through Farm & City Insurance Services of Forest City IA. @$730/yr.
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This is a off-the-wall direction, but this is what happened to our MH. We stopped at a rest area for lunch. When I attempted to leave, every time I put the Allison in gear the engine died, and I lost all 12VDC to the cockpit. I would wait 15 minutes and regained electric power. Start engine, put into gear, engine dies-lost 12V to cockpit. This turned out to be from a loose connection( 1/2" nuts) on the outside of the firewall, at the port-side upper area where there are heavy positive and negative cables secured to the firewall, which supply 12VDC to the cockpit area.
That said, over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground.
This probably has nothing to do with your problems, but it hopefully offers some insight into other possible solutions.
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Would you clarify this in detail? I read your post to mean the travel light on the control panel will not remain lit while driving; OR you get a jacks down alarm while driving. If this is the condition, once the travel light comes on, wait a minute, before turning the panel off. It should not be left on while driving. Do you have HWH slide-outs? That makes a difference in downloading the proper owners manual from HWH.
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The grab-handle on our MH didn't light up one day. I took the bottom handle end off, then the clear plastic "ultimate" tube off. The lights were multiple sub-miniature incandescents on a strip. The only thing wrong was corrosion on the strip terminals where it plugged into the wiring.
Let me know when there is nothing more to repair, replace, or adjust in/on your MH, I'll throw you a party-if we're still able to drive the MH's.
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Prior to spending money, disassemble the ATS and clean the contacts.(smoother the better) They are not designed to switch when under a heavy load, doing so can burn them due to arcing. If this doesn't work,, the only thing you lost is time. Then you may begin spending money.
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On 10/30/2018 at 2:54 AM, manholt said:Jim S. Looks like one to me!
I don't remember, if I ever had split rims on a coach? Don't think so.
bm. Is that the Law in BC? If so, it's a good one!
A tire cage is required by OSHA here in the states. Back when i was in high school, working at a Goodyear tire store/shop; a man lost his right hand when a tire failed while he was inflating it - in a cage. Had he not been using the pipe cage he likely would have been killed. The shop foreman forbid me to inflate truck tires. The rules say to use a cage if the present truck tire pressure is below 60 psi.
Do Not Buy A Winnebago Class A!
in Buying an RV
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After reading this entire thread, and no subsequent posts from the thread starter haeffe since 2015, I'm now thinking he was merely stirring the pot with false allegations.