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Posts posted by rayin
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For those of us that get out-of-touch with stuff we used to know.
This website explains dual-tire spacing and its importance; along with other good-to-know tire information that has been around since the development of radial tires.
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Roger that is an outstanding response! I hope that is on your website, it should be mandatory reading on every website that talks about tires.
As to the conversation about ST tire pressures, very few mfgrs. recommend less than running sidewall air pressure, for a valid reason; tire scrubbing. I saw a man make a spot turn with his 5er on hot blacktop(in TX), he rolled one tire enough to break the bead seal. While helping him change to the spare(Carlyle), I pointed out the sidewall pressure recommendation. Carlyle used to state in their warranty it was void if operated at less than sidewall pressure.
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You've been listening to George Jones.
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This article re-enforces what Brett stated: https://www.todaystrucking.com/air-dryers-avoiding-freezeups/
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Assuming the author really said what you highlighted in blue, IMO it's sloppy editing to re-print a picture with such a blaring error. I suppose he has forgotten the majority of magazine readers are well-versed on the proper way to setup a tow bar and base-plate for safe and efficient towing.
Enough said on this topic, sounds like he is set in his ways from what you have posted.
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Page 41 if the Oct. 18 issue shows a picture of a white car attached to a MH with a tow bar. That tow bar appears to be outside the safe limits of operation. Ideally the tow bar should be level when they are attached, I understand the maximum out-of-level is 4". If the purpose of the magazine is education, the editor should choose pictures with this in mind IMO.
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Bear with my dumb questions. Are you using a towed braking system? Is it working properly? The Roadmaster falcon tow bar is rated for 6,000#, during emergency/hard braking a 4,000# vehicle can exert more pressure that that against the locking pins. -
Now TST has an internal monitor system that works with all our tires, both coach and towed(replaces OEM sensors).
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The last time I was concerned about fuel price was driving in Canada to/from AK.. The average price was the equivalent of $6/G. US. I plan fuel stops for PFJ locations for the convenience. Fuel up, eat dinner, park overnight, eat breakfast and pull out on the super-slab again. If there is any loud noise there we never notice, we trained ourselves to sleep with a white-noise machine long ago.
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The best pricing for caravaning is with S.M.A.R.T. The requirement for joining is one must be active or former military. Their limit for number of units are between 13 and 20, and travel in groups of four; most of the time they fill up rather quickly.
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2 hours ago, kaypsmith said:You don't need the reefer, that's the one with the red dye, ok unless DOT should happen to stick it, takes several fill ups to get that out of the system. I bought 255.89 worth on my FJ/Pilot card last Saturday, inserted the card entered the control#, took picture of the pump# and total, then drove off.
I was under the impression the red dye was eliminated, and now it's simply on- or off-road diesel fuel(no road tax charged), after LSD was banned.
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1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:The time delay has more to do with giving the AC compressor time to bleed down the head preshure so it will start easier. Switching with a load on can damage the ATS.
Bill
You are right of course, good catch. My basement air unit will not start for 2-3 minutes after switching in on, regardless if it hasn't been used in a week or 5 minutes.
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On 6/29/2018 at 9:29 PM, WILDEBILL308 said:The one that gripes me is they know the road is rough so instead of fixing it they just put out a sign saying "rough road"
Bill
👍 The new part of I 69 in S. Indiana has 3 major bridges, at each end of those bridges the pavement sank about 4" after construction. Some folks pulling a TT hit it and nearly lost control, I was far enough behind to slow down (thanks whoever you were). So the state put signage saying "bump"???? some months later the blacktop pavement was leveled with the bridge concrete.. Here we are a year later and the pavement is again sinking in the same spots.
Since you guys are talking about food; DW picked up some persimmons last week, ran them through the collander to separate the seeds, then made a persimmon pudding. Warm persimmon pudding topped with ice cream, is as good as it gets.
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14 hours ago, kaypsmith said:Before using rainex, clean the glass with 10% ammonia, 10% isopropyl alcohol, 80% distilled water, I like to use newspaper to dry the windshield, for a squeaky clean appearance.
Newsprint contains soy-oil, which fills microscopic pits in glass and makes it appear new. It's not as good IMO as the newsprint used 40-50 + years ago though. Remember when reading a newspaper got your hands black? That was the best for cleaning windows.
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Motorhome charge air coolers and custom radiators.
I think replacing radiator caps is the first thing to do, have new one tested before leaving the parts store though. I have, in the past, bought new caps, got home and they also tested faulty.
Mark a line(should already be a cold fill level anyway) on your expansion/overflow tank at liquid level- when cold. Recheck liquid level next morning before starting engine. If it's empty or quite low, inspect the transfer hose for leaks and overflow tank for cracks.
Now the serious note, If no leaks are found, there is a possibility the head gasket is leaking into a cylinder on the intake stroke. The engine will vaporize any liquid and exhaust it away instead if it getting into the oil pan.
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Some air conditioners have a built-in delay to account for switching power sources, mine does, but I do as Carl stated anyway JIC. I have plenty of time, money_not so much.
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On 9/19/2018 at 2:26 PM, manholt said:I once had a spot by the fence, train was 15 feet away! They get real "Horn happy" at 2am!!!
I was in the same situation at the RV park and motel on the East end of Havre, MT. The main switchyard is on the other side of the fence.
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By the time I found out about the class action suit I was 2 days too late to join. Tried calling the law firm to no avail.
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In your electrical bay you should see a box labeled "ATS" if you have an automatic transfer switch. Repeating what Bill said, do not switch power sources with heavy-demand appliances running, it's hard on the switching mechanism, which can lead to premature failure.
re: exercising a generator; Onan recommends running under 1/2 load or more for 2 hrs monthly. The goal is to dispel any moisture from the windings, which is only accomplished by heat.
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Read your coach, Cummins, and Allison owners manuals to locate the normal maintenance schedules. I must do that every time, as there are so many items, remembering is quite difficult. For instance, the air filter should not require changing at 30,000 miles. Cummins says to only change when the filter minder shows at the red mark. Every time the intake system is disturbed it increases the odds of improper sealing, leading to dusting an engine. This may be informative: http://pjrider.com/Cummins.htm
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This is the bookmark I have for a replacement compressor: http://www.ptacsolutions.com/search.asp?keyword=tecumseh+ac+compressor+rka5512exa&search=GO
Here is collection of bookmarks for the basement unit:
- Winnebago basement heat pump
- AC under the coach,removal
- Start Device Package for Coleman Air Conditioners 8333A9021 Automotive
- Basement AC Removal & Outdoor Blower Replacement Procedure - iRV2 Foru (...)
- Welcome to S2 Distribution, Inc. dba PTAC SOLUTIONS - The Web's Largest and Most Experienced HVAC Parts and PTAC Specialists
- 2 Two TON Plus Basement Air Conditioner W/HP 24,000 BTU 46515-811
- Airxcel | RV Products | Specialty Air Conditioners
- Replacing the Coleman Mach thermostat with an Ecobee
- Coleman 46515-811 69859 Two Ton Plus Basement Central Air Conditioner 24000 BTU
- Airxcel | RV Products | Service
- Coleman Mach - ACs, Heat Pumps & Thermostats for RVs | AIrxcel
- Amazon.com: Coleman 46515811 2 Ton A/C Basement: Automotive
- Winnebago repairs + heat pump
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Doesn't an Allison transmission control module keep a permanent mileage log?
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3 hours ago, obedb said:Bill / that they are busy can tell us a thing or two. Some are slow at the craft they desire to be proficient at but they are hanging there in a learning process. Some are taking up the slack for them. Others/ who knows.
Big truck mechanics have all of the room that they need to really study the learning process. Take my extended hood Western Star. I could see behind the engine in front of the firewall, in front of , underneath , and on top of the engine with no effort. I could set up under the the cab as I looked forward or to the rear of things. Had I have been a qualified mechanic, I certainly would not have sought an employer that offered a lower wage that required me to squeeze into reall tight spaces to do my work.
Access gets really tight in our Phaeton. Don't look for a flood of mechanically smart guys to apply for jobs working on an almost incomprehensible arrangement of things mechanical, electrical, and other essentials to the health of various and sundry configurations of motorhomes. There is a nearby RV repair facility that is backed up sometimes months with work. They can't find the help that they need.
Some of what I described is why there are so many warranty issues with higher $ RVs. Many dealers farm there work out because they have no other choice. Of course if you are Carl, the red carpet rolls out.😉🙄 That is according to Bill and why would I doubt that.😂
I can add to what you have accurately stated. The HDT shop that does all my MH work charges $135/hr labor, the owner pays his mechanics $35/hr and is constantly advertising for mechanics (and is understaffed) that meet his standards. His business in repairing MH's is growing constantly as word of his quality, accuracy, and swiftness of completing jobs spreads. Yet, when talking to other MH owners who are searching for (their words) the best place to get work done, they say "oh, those rate are way too high". When will people learn, you really do get what you pay for___.
Last time I stopped in to say Hi to Dave, he was working on a Monaco W/ smart wheel that had nothing working. He located the problem, the thru-the-firewall transition plug had corroded pins and sockets. He cleaned away the corrosion and the smart wheel worked as designed again.
This boils back to the considerable risks of starting up a MH repair shop.
Oh, that shop is: Carmichael Truck and Automotive
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re: total alignment; I had a local HDT repair shop do the alignment on mine. Any shop that aligns transit bus's is qualified for MH chassis too. The rear axle was off by 3/4", the Reyco-Granning IFS specs were not correct in their alignment computer and a test drive at highway speed uncovered the error. I downloaded the Reyco-Granning service/alignment specs and gave them tot shop owner, who immediately had our MH re-aligned using the factory specs. The second test drive was steady and comfortable steering. I completed my handling/steering improvement with the addition of new Bilstein shocks and reset ride height(which should have been done prior to alignment per Spartan, Reyco-Granning)
Tip For Keeping Your Black Water Tank Clean
in Water and Holding Tanks
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Exactly! Any other method is a waste of time and money IMO. I do have a home-made tank flush wand that I use with a water pump pressure increaser, set at 100psi that I use once a year while we are at the stix N brikx. Ice melts so quickly I really doubt it can do anything positive, and it would take about 60# to reduce melt time enough if it did. Next would be to drive the dragonstail road, if you had one nearby.