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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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Musicland Kampground is a block from the "strip" on the West end. It can accommodate any legal-size RV rig. Of course the closer the RV park is to the strip, the higher the cost. IMO the cost is well-worth the location, as driving in Branson is a pain most of the year.
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On 4/25/2018 at 4:16 PM, Veitia11 said:I have a 2014 Entegra Aspire that came from the factory with Goodyear G670RV tires. I recently had the passenger front tire blowout, causing extensive damage to our coach. We had the Driver front tire blowout 2 years ago. Does anyone know if there is any recourse or action I can take against Goodyear? Our coach has less than 20k miles and has been stored indoors since day , so my assumption is that these tries are defective.
The leading cause of tire failure is underinflation/overloading: https://blog.coach-net.com/2014/04/23/most-common-reasons-for-tire-failure/
A new tire can fail, but two on the same axle causes me to wonder_.
If you follow the tire load/inflation charts you are running the absolute minimum air pressure to support the corresponding load. If you don't know your actual weights, run what the Federal tire Placard states for your coach.
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The only valid reason to insulate an LP tank is to keep it warm enough for the liquid to boil/convert to a gaseous state, smaller tanks may require an outside heat source in sub-freezing temperature since the surface area of the liquid is smaller. As the percentage of butane rises, so does the boiling point/temperature; as reflected in Herman's post.
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I have this product above the entry door, and above the sliding window by driver seat to re-direct water. https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Drip-Rail-Plastic-Installs/dp/B01CJRH19Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524941283&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=epdm%2Bdrip%2Bchannel&th=1
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Anyone know the outcome?
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To update my evaluation of the Sailun 275/70 R 22.5 tires; they now have approx. 5,000 miles on them, ride very smoothly and hold the road well, they make a bit more noise than the old Goodyears. I attribute that to the tread design, which does not have the stone ejector strips in the Goodyear design.
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This power consumption chart may be helpful: https://www.oksolar.com/technical/consumption.html
when calculating your solar generating capacity vs power consumption.
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I know little about solar systems. That said, Winnebago put a 10W solar panel on the roof of our MH, it only has a small red indicator light that illuminates when in sunlight. It is hard-wired to the house battery bank. I suppose that means a tiny bit of energy is being produced. I do know it's not enough to keep the battery bank maintained, even in full sunlight..
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Keep in mind a block heater only heats the coolant, any heat to the oil is radiant unless you also have an oil pan heater. You have nothing to pre-heat the transmission and oil unless it is an aftermarket add-on.
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On 1/6/2018 at 1:50 PM, Eyephoto said:Timetraveler, I am doing research on my wife's father's time in the Army durring WWII. Some of his records were singed in the building fire. Some may have been lost. I have some, and was told to look through the daily reports to recreate information on his awarded metals. This is on microfiche. It is available, but you would have to do the research for yourself. The National Archives is located 1 Archives Dr St Louis, MO 63138-1002 www.archives.gov Hope this helps.
I first thought I was looking at a pic of our MH until I read the narrative. I'll contact a friend who has the address of a different source for WWII records, hopefully it will be useful.
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The Power Service Diesel 9.1.1 in a red bottle treats 100G diesel fuel. Since I topped off my tank last fall, I added a bottle of 9.1.1 to the tank 2 weeks ago, just prior to the below zero weeks we've had since then. If it was not needed, $12/bottle was cheap insurance IMO.
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My simple test of my ISC Cummins engine heater; I turned the switch on, came back 2 hrs later, turned on key and temp gauge read 80°. The outside ambient temperature was -4°F.
Sure it allows the starter to work more easily, but it does nothing to warm anything but the coolant and engine. One must drive judiciously until every drive train component is warmed to operating temperature in sub-freezing weather.
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On 12/31/2017 at 2:10 PM, bdersham said:We are living at the moment full time in our RV and are In Carlisle PA
About every 3-4 weeks we take our unit out for fuel and if appropriate a wash job. Today, attempting to get the unit ready to take out, I discovered the canopy that comes out with the slide had ice on it, about 1 in thick in the middle where it had troughed and it was impossible to retract the sides. Had to get an extension ladder and it took about an hour to clear the 3 slide canopies.
Given we’re going to be here for a few months this is bound to occur again and I’m looking for suggestions on how to avoid having water / snow get on top of the canopy and sit there.
I didn't answer your question. The simplest way to avoid water pooling on the toppers is to raise the front end on the jacks during/after a rain/snow event just enough to allow drainage. Lower to level after a short time, so you don't get the frig cooling system upset. Some folks have used cheap inflatable beach balls to prop up the toppers, but I find using the jacks much easier.
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After much thought, I'll forgo joining FMCA roadside assistance. I'll remain a member only for the emergency medical assist program.
Now to these personal attacks. IMO it is reverse horn-blowing-ie; deride someone to make ones-self look better.
Carl, lock this thread please. I'll converse with Mr. Bell via phone.
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Ultimate Freedom!
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On 12/31/2017 at 4:26 PM, elkhartjim said:It may be hard to find but a beach ball inflated enough to take any sag out may be an option.
That's what I use to keep the topper awning supported. DW's straight broom works well to position the beach ball and remove it when we make ready to travel.
I wonder why bdsham doesn't have his LP tank filled delivered by tanker truck? It's hard on a diesel engine and transmission being started unless it's driven at least 20 minutes to reach normal operating temperature, and it will never reach normal operating temperature while idling; in fact it will cool down idling after being driven.
Washing any vehicle in freezing weather doesn't sound good for the seals either. -
What I have gleaned from reading about vehicles with electric power steering, and being towed 4-down, the negative battery cable must be disconnected in a positive way or the "fly-by-wire" electric power steering constantly keeps trying to sync the steering wheel and front wheel positions, as it is constantly powered. The result is destruction of the steering.
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14 hours ago, manholt said:Richard.
I believe that not having correct ride height of coach, will give a skewed weight reading! What else would explain a 2,070 pound difference between R & L, on front axel ?
OOPS! Just noted I quoted your post instead of richard, sorry.
Right!
Looking into this further, curtsue and I have exactly the same axle GVW's, 19K rear, 12K front. Rear weighs more than front, agreed? Now raise RF corner 1" or more, what happens to weight on LF corner? The rear axle weight will prevent the RF corner from dropping to equalize front corner weights-UNLESS anyone thinks the frame will flex enough to equalize front corner weights. Thus my race care analogy.
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19 hours ago, manholt said:When did this happen? As of 2 weeks ago, their bulk oil was still Shell Rotella!
That is a very old service bulletin-2007. It simply means Valvoline meets/exceeds the requirements of CES 20081. Sorry, I was being flippant; any diesel oil that meets/exceeds the requirements of CES 20081/CJ-4 is approved for use in any on-road diesel or gas engine running today.
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Anyone who thinks ride height is not related to corner weight has never been involved with auto racing. I can post a page of links but most articles are so technical they would not bother to read them. Ride height is perhaps the single most important starting point when designing a race car.
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On 12/21/2017 at 8:12 PM, FIVE said:If you have a diesel coach engine and a diesel generator, sure makes it easy to use the same oil. If it's good enough for the engine, it's certainly good enough for the generator.
Yep, Cummins now recommends Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 diesel oil.
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Open the Michelin Truck Tire Service Manual, pgs 55-58. You'll see pictures of similar tire problems. Locate the one most similar to your tire appearance. The narrative should describe what is happening and how to correct the cause.
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How long since ride height was checked/set? That is the first step towards even weights on the corners, and also for total wheel alignment.
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Having used both Roadmaster and Blue Ox, I can't discern any noticeable difference in performance. I now use a 10,000# Blue Ox due to weight of my '13 Silverado, still have the 6,000# Roadmaster tow bar in the garage we used to tow our Jeep GC.
I rhought
Pocket Truck Stop Guide
in Electronics
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That is included in the Rand McNally(Good Sam) GPS software. Really easy to look up a fuel station near our location or a different city. Also, the app Trucker Path for cell phones has all this, and a long list of additional stuff.