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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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There is no such thing as an extended warranty on an RV, autos yes.
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My 1999 Allison 3060 says Dextron III on the dipstick, which is what was used when the oil was changed.
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On 7/17/2017 at 2:40 AM, rlbarkleyii said:Anyone put Bilstiens on Winny Journey 32" ? Whats generally the cost of set of Bilstiens for a DP?
Like BennieH, I too found the best internet prices on MH shocks at shockwarehouse.com
front and rear Bilsteins ware under $89 ea.; Bilsteins were the OEM shocks when our MH was new. BTW, Bilsteins have a lifetime warranty. If money is no object look at Roadmaster MH shocks, IMO you really do get what you pay for.
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Replace the coolant temp sensor, it's a bear to access on a slide-out genset. Sometimes it has been there so long it's corroded into the metal housing, which breaks when a rough hand is on the wrench.
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On 8/5/2018 at 10:32 PM, WILDEBILL308 said:Look in the front on the firewall over the generator.
Bill
Yep, my air conditioner fill port is to the left(looking at gen) of the generator, below the air box. I simply went to WalMart, purchased a large can of R134A + stop leak W/gauge to tell me when the system is full. It took about 1/2 can to reach the green zone. That was 2013 when we bought our Winnebago on Spartan MM chassis, it's worked great ever since. Total cost $19. MH had been in storage 8 years prior to purchase and freon had leaked out over time.
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I remember in the late 60's reading an article in the Tacoma newspaper about retail merchants in the SeaTac area petitioning DOD to increase on-base prices, as the lower prices were unfair to them. That's about the time I remember on-base prices slowly rising, I have no idea if that was a "cause and effect" though.
I shop AFEES and commissary whenever we are near a large military installation. Hopefully it contributes to keeping the facilities open for AD personnel.
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Several years ago a man on irv2.com calculated wind speed required to blow over his 5er. Skipping the details, he said it would take an 86 MPH straight wind against the side of his 5er to blow it over-if his calculations were correct.
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The majority of CL C MH's run close to the GVWR anyway, locate a scale and weigh each axle, or, if there is room weigh one side, one wheel at a time, then the other. Remember to have the vehicle level side to side when weighing, with 50% of one side on scale. Pages 7,8,and 9 of this pdf show how to weigh a motorhome on various types of scales.
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When I first joined FMCA it took me months to figure out how to stop receiving unwanted emails. Now the new website seems to have eliminated the selection page for emails from various groups of FMCA. Can/Will someone point me to that selection page? If I can't stop the unwanted emails, my only choice is to block all emails from FMCA, meaning they will not even appear in my junk mail folder.
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The most common cause of poor cooling while underway is the condensation tube that drains the condensate from the collection pan underneath the cooling fins. The end of the tube has an insert that prevents insects from entering, and this end is supposed to be in an evaporation pan near the burner tube on the back of the frig submerged in water/condensate. Sometimes the tube gets removed from the pan, this allows warm air to back-flow into the frig, warming the interior. These evaporative refrigerator systems are slow to recover from warm air entering the box. Make sure the drain tube is in the evaporation pan, everything else should work as designed.
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On 1/6/2018 at 8:26 PM, sasmit8 said:We have a Coleman basement air conditioner in our 2002 Winnebago.
Over the years we have had a lot of problems with this unit, and have spent over $4000.00 in repairs.
The latest problem we have not been able to get fixed. The problem is a LOUD NOISE vibration coming from the squirrel cage blower,if you bang on the bottom of the blower.
the noise will stop until the unit stops and recycles. On a trip to ME we had it looked at and they said it was the blower motor. We had the motor replaced at a cost of $750..OO.
That fixed the problem for about 5 hours. Then on a trip to GA we had it looked at again. This time we were told it was the blower motor again caused by not replacing the pillow block bearing when they replaced the motor the first time as the bearing was seizing. They then replaced the motor and bearing for $850.00. This lasted for 3 hrs use.
We now have the problem back Not sure what to do next.
PS
Our camping neighbors hope we fix this soon.
Do not have an RV air conditioner repair person work on your basement unit, as it is basically a household air conditioner/heat pump. The only difference is, a Coleman/Mach basement unit has two 12,0000btu compressors instead on one 24,000 btu compressor. The 2nd compressor will not run unless the #1 compressor is running.
Here are my bookmarks for the basement unit, hope they are useful:
- Winnebago basement heat pump
- Airxcel RV Products Service locations
- Motorhome RV HVAC Controls - Evans Tempcon
- Start Device Package for Coleman Air Conditioners 8333A9021: Automotive
- Coleman Mach 2 Two TON Plus Basement Air Conditioner W/HP 24,000 BTU 46515-811
- Basement A/C Removal & Outdoor Blower Replacement Procedure - iRV2 Forums
- Replacing the Coleman Mach thermostat with an Ecobee
- Coleman 46515-811 69859 Two Ton Plus Basement Central Air Conditioner 24000 BTU
- basement air conditioner compressor
- AC under the coach,removal
- Motorhome RV HVAC Controls - Evans Tempcon
- Start Device Package for Coleman Air Conditioners 8333A9021 Automotive
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On 5/26/2018 at 8:30 PM, FIVE said:Their logic would be that if the tire had been inflated to the sidewall pressure noted on the outside of the tire, the tire wouldn't have blown out with the low mileage and nearly new manufacture date on it
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You pretty-well summed up the Carlisle tire warranty. That's why I stopped buying them, how are you going to contest a "you ran them underinflated" warranty that includes bulges, etc? BTW, that inflate to sidewall pressure clause is gone now.
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On 5/28/2018 at 7:20 AM, manholt said:I gave up on Window 10, for me it was a PIA. You got my condolences!
Enjoy Memorial Day...I just brought my flags down to half staff, until noon!
Carl C.
Yup, I'm about ready to chuck W10 and switch to Linux OS. I regret leaving W8.1.
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I apologize Carl, I mistakenly thought the body of my post explained that clearly, with a hot link to the information. I just installed Windows 10, and every time I attempted to download and post the NTSB recall letter in full, it linked to my computer.
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This is a specific recall posted here: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/tire-recall-22-5-continental-393396.html
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Carlisle Tire's warranty used to state "tires must be inflated to sidewall stated pressure or warranty is void"; don't know about now though.
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On 5/11/2017 at 7:40 PM, manholt said:Not a social media site! Business and Corporations from all over the globe...I'm on it as an owner! Not a place to leave or garner info of a non profit club!
I agree, after I retired and forgot to update my status on Linkedin, I was getting job offers from several companies searching for an environmental manager. What is misleading are the emails asking "do you know *******?"
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I'll look at it, but I've had good luck using truckerpath on my phone.
UPDATE: I have ran a few routes through the program and I think it's the best mapping program I've used on my computer.
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On 5/17/2018 at 7:23 AM, jleamont said:YUP, that and they hang down significantly lower which any road debris can smack them and knock them off driving down the highway.
When I worked at the dealer we would remove them and hand them back to the customer, it was our policy. We were not going to be responsible for not getting all the crud from the pan as the fitting often extends into the pan 1/4" which allowed the oil and crud to dam up on the edge of the threads, plus we were not going to be responsible for it opening up after we touched it last or leaking. Drain plugs are a consumable/wear item, when they fatigue it is the responsibility of the installer to replace it.
My son-in-law is maintenance manager for a large nationwide trucking company, his position is the same as yours.
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14 hours ago, jleamont said:The flip side...How long at idle before departing in the morning? This is the one you hear the most complaints about.
I unhook, pack it all up, start the coach let it rise and build air, do a walk around the coach, hop in, buckle up and pull out, go easy on the throttle until it reaches operating temperature.
That is exactly the procedure Cummins states in my engine manual. The days of having to warm up a diesel engine were prior to 1960. Isn't technology great. For those who still practice a 30 minute warmup, how do you warm up the Allison transmission too-as driving is the only way known; or do you just hit it and forget about the transmission and differential?
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On 5/14/2018 at 10:54 PM, manholt said:RayIn.
The best tank sensors are the ones that go on the outside of the tanks. They are sold aftermarket and you can Google and pick the system that best work for you and your wallet. They work on the same circuit that you have now!
I agree, however I choose to use the tried and true method of watching for the burp upon flushing, guess it's the cheapskate in me.
I've also learned our normal dump schedule is 14 days when on FHU.
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14 hours ago, manholt said:Was not referring to you. RayIn was my target. His is available via Winnebago or after market.
Your situation is unique! Not many coaches around anymore, from early 1974...Custom Bus and GMC is about it.
Yes. My cost was $50 deductible + the cost of treating all rusting metal surrounding the tank with POR 15(that was my choice). The ESC covered everything over that. I didn't want to endure the ridiculous wait time from CW either.
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When we bought this MH, after a short time I realized the black tank had something stuck to the bottom. Since the "wand" sold at the RV store was too short I made my own. I used 4' of CPVC pipe, 1 pipe cap , 1 threaded nipple that glued onto the pipe, and 1 hose adapter. When assembled I drilled a 1/8" hole in the side of the pipe cap. Knowing the city water line pressure at our house is 100psi-sometimes more, I just ran garden hose through a window and attached my homemade wand. I was amazed at the amount of "stuff" that flushed out of the tank. Afterwards I could see the tank bottom was not white as before, it was now actually black. I picked up about a gallon bucket of toilet paper that had dried out and stuck to the tank bottom. This happened because the tank had a split in the bottom, allowing liquid to drain away, leaving the paper stuck to the bottom. I had Camping World weld that split closed.
The tank sensors began working properly, but that only lasted a few weeks. Now I'm back to watching for the "burp" again.
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Prior to attempting to weld a plastic tank it must be determined what the material is, as the same plastic "welding rod" material must be used. The process is not unlike oxy/acetylene welding, except the heat source is an electric heat gun instead of a flame.
My black tank began leaking, Camping World welded the split in the tank bottom and it's been fine ever since. The hard part, according to the tech, was gaining access to the tank bottom. He said welding the split took about 15-20 minutes, but gaining access then reassembling everything took nearly 4 hours.
Best Tire Pressure Monitoring System
in Type A motorhomes
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Peruse this webpage to read about popular TPMS: http://www.motorhome.com/motorhomes/motorhome-gear/air-apparent-a-tpms-buyers-guide/
That does not however discuss the TST internal sensor package for 10 tires.