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f433921

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Posts posted by f433921


  1. On 5/19/2019 at 2:19 AM, als4life said:

    New to all the for roadside assistance.  I just found out how bad AAA was.  I was not even in my Motorhome.  We took the toad out  and on our way back to the campsite, motor just quit on us.  Being on side of a busy Interstate, close as I could get to the guard rail without hitting it.  Trucks running 70 to 75 mph touching the white line.  I will just say, will make you very short to people when you find out, your AAA will only cover you for 3 miles, yes that is right 3 MILES.... then 4.99/ mile that I would have to pay the driver cash.  Needless to say I don't have AAA any longer.  I got this with Good Sam.  You were right, what the RV place sold me, don't even cover Motorhomes.  SMH, I then remembered I had Rescue+ and come to find out, when my wife renewed it, it only covered my motorcycle.  Make a longer story short..... I no longer have AAA nor do I have Rescue +.  I would like some information on which would be better to cover everything I might drive.  Don't know what GS stands for and never heard of CoachNet either.  

    My brother-in-law just broke down on Thanksgiving weekend and he has AAA Platinum his experience was great.  Tow company contacted him within 30 of contacting AAA, got all information on size, weight, height, ground clearance and position of coach in relation to roadway.  Lowboy was dispatched and coach was towed to shop that my BIL chose, happened to be within 30 miles of location that he broke down at.

    Jim


  2. 1 hour ago, manholt said:

    Jim, my Whirlpool gold runs on zero -1, freezer and +37 fridge.  I would think zero -4, on freezer is a tad to cold, since your in Washington State.  Do you keep your coach in a garage or outside?

    The recommended temperatures in the owners manual are -4 and 38, that's what I have been using to date. I'm going to move it up to 0 to  see it helps.

    I do store my rig in a 40' x 60' stick built shop and I've never seen it freeze inside. 


  3. 2 minutes ago, huffypuff said:

    I still have a fine working Norcold going on 14 years old.  😂

     

    3 minutes ago, huffypuff said:

    I still have a fine working Norcold going on 14 years old.  😂

    I had one of them too, but after 5 failures of the retro fit  and reading stories of motorhomes with the  retro fit still going up in flames I decided to make the change. When I removed my Dometic there was a section of charred wood  adjacent to the stack.  My brother-in -law is one of those whole lost his MH from a refrigerator fire,

    Jim


  4. On 12/2/2019 at 9:45 PM, F433921 said:

    I recently have been experiences an issue with my Samsung RF18 where the both the refrigerator and freezer compartments defrost cycles are not working properly.  It will cool properly (Refrigerator 38 degrees F, Freezer -2 degrees) for about three week and the temperatures will gradually start creeping up in both compartments, eventually the refrigerator will not maintain 45 degrees and the freezer 32 degrees and both evaporator are a block of ice, circulating fans continue to run but no air circulation due to evaporator icing.

    I have checked condenser and and found clean (no dust bunnies) and no air way restrictions.  I have also confirmed that the continuity of defrost heaters  elements and associated over temperature devices on both evaporators are within specifications.

    The refrigerator and freezer evaporator defrost heaters are controlled by independent control circuits on the main circuit board.

    I contacted my local appliance repair facilities and none are willing to service the refrigerator with it in the motorhome. One of them was nice enough to provide me with a copy the Samsung trouble shooting guide and the electrical schematics.  

    I will run the diagnostic procedures tomorrow to see if determine why the evaporator defrost system are not working, I'm hoping that it maybe something as simple and a loose connection on the the wiring harnesses associated with the defrost circuits.

    I installed the refrigerator about 4 years ago and has performs flawlessly unit this problem surfaced.

    If anyone has had similar issues, I would appreciate if you would share your experiences.

    Jiim

    UPDATE

    Ran diagnostic of microprocessor today, all test were performed thru at least 2 cycles. Test were performed with refrigerator on both shore power and invert.  

    Refrigerator had been running for 40 hours prior to first test,  freezer temperature -4, refrigerator 38 at beginning of test.

    No fault codes were found. Guess this was no surprise because both freezer and refrigerator have operated normal since the evaporators were defrosted by disconnecting the power cord .

    There is a disclaimer in the diagnostic procedure instructions that the diagnostic only check input sensor and process outputs.

    Diagnostics doesn't confirm the 120V components such as defrost heaters, fans ans compressor are functional.

    I have confirmed the all heaters, compressor, fans and external protective device (thermal devices, fuses)  are functional.

    The only item left to check is the connection on the PCB that power  the defrost.heaters.  If this checks out OK, I will just wait until it fails again and run the diagnostic  when in a fault condition.

    Unfortunately there  no CHECK ENGINE  light that set the codes.

     

    Jim

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     


  5. 1 hour ago, DickandLois said:

    Jim's Response.

           The Samsung RF18 is a high tech unit that uses a micro processor to control the defrost cycles.  The refrigerator and freezer sections have separate evaporators and are controlled independently. Defrost cycles are only activated when icing is detected and duration of each cycle is variable. 

    Jim, A number of microprocessor system's Do Not like the modified waveform generated by a number of the  inverters. There are a number of manufactures that state that fact in there technical information. Many others do not specify the information.  Modified waveform can mess up the clock and timing circuits.

    Rich. 

    Rich,

    There many of the  Samsung RF18  in RV's that are running on modified sign wave inverters.  I contacted Samsung 4 years ago and was insures that the RF18 would perform without  problems with on modifies sign wave power sources.  The heaters are 120 v calrod heater the refrigerator heater 120 ohms (120 w) and freezer 60 ohms (240 watts).  Both heater check OK

    The builtin diagnostics allow you initiate the IO outputs for the different functions by operating the touch pads that control temperature setting. I have no voltage at the heater junctions on either heater.  The processor output operated an ice cube relay  mounted on the circuit. My next check it determine if the relay is getting a signal from the processor and to determine if there is 120 v at relay contacts.

    We keep you posted as I work my way thru it.

    Jim

     


  6. 2 minutes ago, desertdeals69 said:

    It might be the defrost timer.  Seen that before.

    The defrost cycle is not a function of time like the old school refrigerator. 

    The Samsung RF18 is a high tech unit that uses a micro processor to control the defrost cycles.  The refrigerator and freezer sections have separate evaporators and are controlled independently. Defrost cycles are only activated when icing is detected and duration of each cycle is variable. 

    Since the evaporator icing is occurring on both the refrigerator and freezer evaporators, it's leading me to believe that the problem lies with in the micro processor. The only reboot option is to interrupt power to the unit. have tried this with no success. I have run the self diagnostics and no faults have been detected in the temperature sensors and the only component common to both the refrigerator and freezer defrost is the microprocessor.

    Jim


  7. My brother-in-law's coach broke down yesterday when traveling east bound on I-84 in the Columbia River Gorge.  Fortunately it happened just as he was approaching an exit and was able to get off of the freeway and on the exit ramp. He was traveling with a strong east wind in his face when it happened, engine stopped with no warring and would not restart.  He was able to coast backward and get on the shoulder.

    He has AAA Platinum road service and he contacted AAA and provided them with location type vehicle that he was driving. He was pleasantly surprised how thorough they were questioning on the type of vehicle he driving and if he was in danger or impeding traffic.   Within thirty minutes of making contact with AAA the towing company contacted him requesting information on the length, height, weight, ground clearance and relative position of vehicle in relation to road and traffic conditions. The towing company informed my BIL that a lowboy with dropdown front and removable front section would be used to transport to location of his choice.

    My brother-in-law, state police and towing company mutually agreed allow the vehicle to remain on location until this AM.  At first light the tow truck arrives at site and delivered to repair facility by 11 AM.

    This is one of the few good experiences that I have heard about.

    Jim


  8. I recently have been experiences an issue with my Samsung RF18 where the both the refrigerator and freezer compartments defrost cycles are not working properly.  It will cool properly (Refrigerator 38 degrees F, Freezer -2 degrees) for about three week and the temperatures will gradually start creeping up in both compartments, eventually the refrigerator will not maintain 45 degrees and the freezer 32 degrees and both evaporator are a block of ice, circulating fans continue to run but no air circulation due to evaporator icing.

    I have checked condenser and and found clean (no dust bunnies) and no air way restrictions.  I have also confirmed that the continuity of defrost heaters  elements and associated over temperature devices on both evaporators are within specifications.

    The refrigerator and freezer evaporator defrost heaters are controlled by independent control circuits on the main circuit board.

    I contacted my local appliance repair facilities and none are willing to service the refrigerator with it in the motorhome. One of them was nice enough to provide me with a copy the Samsung trouble shooting guide and the electrical schematics.  

    I will run the diagnostic procedures tomorrow to see if determine why the evaporator defrost system are not working, I'm hoping that it maybe something as simple and a loose connection on the the wiring harnesses associated with the defrost circuits.

    I installed the refrigerator about 4 years ago and has performs flawlessly unit this problem surfaced.

    If anyone has had similar issues, I would appreciate if you would share your experiences.

    Jim

     


  9. 12 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    Jim, Re read what Ernie posted. He is in the RV floor business. Probably the best and has more experience than anyone else on the forum. 

     

    Bill , that what I plan on doing, waiting for copilot to  make a decision.  Going to RV show in Portland, she is looking what color flooring that will go with cabinets and upholstery. 

    Jim


  10. On 7/12/2019 at 3:48 AM, Erniee said:

    I have an Endeavor here for wood floors and the owner had same issue. So he opted to get rid of the nasty carpet

    After making several adjustments I was able to lessen the imprint in the carpet, however it is not completely gone.

    It's a good excuse replace the carpet.

    I'm considering replacing the carpet with LVP,  what is you opinion on LVP vs wood?

    We live in the PNW and are always tracking water in and we have also have pets.

     

    Jim


  11. UPDATE

    I previously mentioned in my original post that replacement relays were readily available. Initial response from local Deltrol supplier was that relay was available, however he now finds that it is no longer in production and is unable to find distributors  that may have old stock.

    I contacted Deltrol directly and they informed that the relay in question was a special production for ATS manufacturer and that they do not manufacture any relays that cross reference with the same specifications. The difference in relays currently in production with the same current readings, physical dimensions  and coil voltages  have different timing in the pull in and drop out characteristics, which effects the current interruption capability.

    I have requested the design specification from Deltrol for the original relay so I can determine if other relay manufacturers.

    I have researched replacement ATS's and have only found a few that offer switched that have terminal  block to make connection. The length of the wiring between the ATS and breaker panel is really short and is not long enough to reach  termination on individual relays.

    Will keep you posted.

    Jim


  12. 11 hours ago, RayIN said:

    Yep, and #2 is switching power sources under heavy load.

    F___, that looks like a new terminal block assy.

    I always make sure that there is little or no load when connecting or disconnecting shore power or when starting or stopping the generator.

    The terminal strip and all components are original. The manufacturers spec sheet on the Series 900 Deltrol relays used in the ATS specify that they are designed for 100,000 operations. I expect that IOTA is not the only brand of ATS that uses them.

    After just going thru my ATS I'm confident that the IOTA components are as robust as you will find in other brands.

    I have spent my entire career in power generation and have found Deltrol components to be quality products.

    Products are only as good as on how the end use maintains and uses any product.

    Jim

     


  13. I have religiously performed annual maintenance on the ATS on my 04 HR Endeavor  during the nine year that I have owned the coach.  The maintenance has included checking the tightness of the connections on the terminal block located in the ATS enclosure, visual of components and spot checking connections with infrared  heat gun. To date I have found no loose connections or signs of overheating or elevated temperature that would indicate poor connections.

    This year I decided to perform a more detailed inspection which included removing the ATS from the coach (required to remover terminal block, locking tab on rear) and then removing the terminal block from ATS to provide access to check all connections on the relays and the relay contacts. Also have to remove 2 pop rivets to remove terminal block. This is required to access 4 of the connections that are not accessible with terminal block in place.

    To my surprise I found all connections tight and only minor pitting on relay contacts. The pitting was cleaned up with 1000 grit sand paper and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner.

    The relays are DELTROL 900 (US made) replacement ones are readily available , however they are made in China.

    The first picture is with terminal block in normal position, second one is with terminal block positioned to access relays.

    My coach also has a 50 Amp Hubble plug on the shore connection where it penetrates the bulkhead of the compartment  where you will need to check connection on both the male and female sides.

    DSCN3027.JPG

    DSCN3029.JPG


  14. On ‎10‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 1:13 PM, Beaver42 said:

    Plan to leave OH in early July.  Would like to visit National Parks in UT, WY, etc.  Want to hit Yellowstone & Mt Rushmore. Any suggestions on best route to follow. Have approximately 15 days round trip. Suggestions on RV parks outside of national parks to stay and take day trips in the car. Many thanks.

    The West Yellowstone Grizzly RV park is a great place to stay, it's within walking distance to the downtown West Yellowstone attractions.

    The park has large spacious sites and is big rig friendly and is close to the west entrance to Yellowstone NP.

     

    JIm


  15. 2 hours ago, Elkhartjim said:

    The OP stated the light on the black box is not on. 

     

    I had 4 of the safety devices fail, on 2 of the failures the red light came on and it was not resettable and  the other two failures there red light was off on the module and the screen was blank.

    If you look at the wiring on the safety device you will see that the safety device interrupts the 12 volt supply to the refrigerator  control board.

    Without 12 power source to the refrigerator control board the screen will go blank,  and both heating sources ( propane/110 electric) will be interrupted.

    Jim

     


  16. 7 hours ago, cbdeajr said:

    Looking to replace the tires on my 33 MH. Was thinking about Hankook as I only put 3500-5000 miles per year on them, But I have seen a lot of negative reviews fo Hankook tires on car but not seeing much on RV tires. Any suggestion?

    Thanks

     

    Been running them for 3 years on three different motorhomes, never a problem.

    Jim

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