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Found 12 results

  1. While at Quartzsite my DW wanted to check floorplans of motorhomes. She found a floorplan she likes but i'm not confindent the engine is strong. I'm not sure that the 6.7 L 340 hp cummins with 2500 Allison can handle steep grades a 40 foot with 33,000 lbs towing a car. Does anyone have experience with this engine and trans setup to can give feedback?
  2. We are considering our first Diesel Pusher purchase and we located a 2002 Holiday Rambler 40' with a 400hp ISM Cummins and a 6 speed Allison transmission. I do not know what the axle ratio is but it is on a Roadmaster chassis. Any ideas what to expect for fuel mileage not towing? We also looked a a new Fleetwood with a Cummins ISB 300 and was told 11-13 MPG which seemed high but sounded good. We currenly have a 31' Class C Ford E-450 V10 which is around 7-8, I am hoping with the diesel I can get enough fuel mileage to off set the MPG or better would be great. Any thoughts on the Roadmaster chassis in 2001-2002 good chassis? Thanks,
  3. I have a 2008 Tiffin Phaeton with the Cummins ISC 360 HP engine. As I was approaching my present destination, a "check engine, coolant warning" amber light came on. It went on and off as I traveled the last 10 miles or so to my destination. On checking the coolant levels after the engine had cooled, I found that the "surge" tank was filled to the proper level between min and max. Also, while the warning light was coming on the temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge remained at normal levels. A couple of years ago, I had the cooling system flushed and refreshed at a freightliner service facility. Any ideas about why I am getting these warning lights will be appreciated.
  4. While on a 988 mile trip to Denver I noticed that our class A DP started vibrating from the rear while under load from either a hill or acceleration at the point that the engine was under load. While climbing the pass at the Eisenhower tunnel the check transmission light came on and threw a "d1 P0796" code on the Allison console when I read it (Solenoid "C" Stuck Off). When this happened the rig was under heavy load in 4th gear on it's way up the hill and shaking/vibrating while trying to climb. We immediately took it into a large service center (Transwest) where I gave them all of the details but they were unable to reproduce the issue and obviously since I cleared the code in order to restore transmission function, their reader saw no diag codes. They said fluid seemed clear and full, the Allison Transmission console says the filter is ok, although it is probably due for a change (we purchased this rig used a year ago). On the way back from Denver to California the exact same issue happened, the vibrating any time there was load at 1500-2000 RPM (changing gears or getting out of that range stops the vibrating). I'm taking her in tomorrow to have a truck/rv service shop take a look tomorrow but would like to get opinions or experience anyone has had with this issue and what the resolution might have been. The shop did not have our jeep attached to it when they looked at the rig so I suspect the weight of the Jeep makes the issue more pronounced/reproducible. Here are the rig's details: 2011 Holiday Rambler 36PFT, 28,800lbs Flat Towing 4000lbs Jeep Wrangler Allison Transmission (3000 I think) MaxxForce 10 Engine Issue Details: - Seems to only vibrate/shake from the rear end at 1500-2000 RPM and only under load and any gear. When not under load she'll run in the 1500-2000 RPM range just fine but the second load is introduced the shake usually will show up and can range from a quick vibration to a pronounced shake that seems to match the engine RPMs in some way. - When the vibration happens it seems like the engine loses some power. - I can be going up a hill just fine in 5th gear and it sounds like the engine has plenty of power to continue then all of a sudden almost like a switch, power seems diminished and the vibration will happen. Letting off on the pedal (usually pedal is at the floor if going up hill and this happens) will get rid of the vibration at the expense of momentum loss. - Changing gears when the vibration to a lower gear like 4 -> 3 puts the RPMs above 2k and stops the vibration. - When changing gears from 4 -> 3 to stop the vibration usually the rig can handle staying between 2000-2500 RPMs up most inclines but I will feel an occasional slow pulse of power loss for split seconds that isn't pronounced at all. It's like the moment you feel when you are just about to go the other direction on a swing, like a slow pause. - Will shake if pedal to floor when trying to pass on relatively flat land if the RPMs are in the above range. - Seems to get worse the longer I drive. Shutting off the engine for 15-30 minutes does nothing for it if I'm on a long trip. Usually within about 2 hours the vibration issue will be far easier to reproduce. - Seems worse or easier to produce when flat towing Jeep. - Transwest inspected the drive line, the fluid, codes and found no faults/issues. Could not reproduce without Jeep connected, or at least the service tech couldn't detect it. I can usually detect the issue without the jeep as well or even in the first legs of the trip when it's not acting up as much but it is faint. I just know what the feel is when it's doing it regardless of intensity. Some of the things I plan to have them look at/change: Transmission fluid to Transynd Trans filter change Oil Change Fuel Filter Change Inspect Injectors Possibly change out whatever solenoid is throwing the DTC Transwest suggested it could be transmission valve body Any ideas or experiences that might match and what to look for to resolve would be such a help. My fear is I won't be able to reproduce it for the place I'm taking it too or they will run wild speculating what it is and I'll have rebuilt both the engine and transmission before the issue is resolved. If you got this far reading, thank you, and please HELP! Greg
  5. I bought a '99 Coachmen Catalina late last summer and, after taking it out for a week's trip for a shakedown, put it away for the winter and turned off the battery by way of the Intellitec BD2 battery cutoff panel. Now the cutoff doesn't seem to be working to turn the batteries back on so I can start the RV. The batteries test fully charged. I want to check to see if the Intellitec unit is working but I have no idea where it is on the coach. I don't have any schematics showing were everything is in the RV (Ford Engine) but the user's manual suggests the unit should be located close to the batteries - which it isn't. If anyone has one of these RVs or at least a Coachmen model from a year around 1999 and knows where this unit is, please help.
  6. Has anyone had any experience with increasing performance with either an engine tuner or muffler on a Cummins ISL 400? It is in a 2006 Monaco Dynasty Platinum IV coach. I am looking at a TS PERFORMANCE POWER PLAY MP-8 Tuner and AERO EXHAUST muffler. Any comment would be greatly appreciated. Jim
  7. I have a 2004 Monaco Windsor with a Cummins 400hp. Am currently traveling and discovered large amount of exhaust fumes coming through the access panel in the bedroom. After investigating appears the exhaust pipe flange that attaches to the engine blower has broken due to a loose exhaust pipe support clamp. I have applied a temporary fix, but need to find a repair shop in the Houston area that can provide the fix. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  8. I have a Country Coach FE 420 with a C9 425 hp. I have 18,000 miles on it . A 16,000 mile I had a check engine light come on. Turns out Cat said I had a blown turbo. They said they had some hot inlet air alert showing on the read out. Cat replaced the turbo but after checking to see if everything was working fine after a few miles Cat is still getting alerts showing hot inlet air but now they are saying it's CC problem, plus now I get what feels like a miss in the engine. Has anyone else run into this. Thanks
  9. After re-reading some older posts about the "Economy Mode" on the Allison transmission control panel, I finally got around to trying it out last week. On a 580 mile round trip to Nevada, I used the economy mode and kept highway speed under 60 mph. The results were dramatic; a 25% improvement in mpg! I usually get about 7.8 mpg, and logged a surprising 9.8 mpg with slower speed and the economy mode. Thanks again to the authors of the earlier posts on this subject (http://community.fmca.com/topic/1149-allison-economy-mode/). You save me some serious cash with that advice. Happy travels, Tim
  10. I have a Cummins 8.3 in my Beaver Coach. I have had to start adding antifreeze (Fleetguard 50/50 extended life antifreeze) quite regularly during my trip-about 1 gallon every 1000 miles. I had my oil changed before I left on my trip and had Shell Rotella 15W40 installed. I had my oil analyzed at 1600 miles of my trip. The readings were 114 ppm for Sodium, 145 ppm for Potassium and 1.1 ppm for glycol. I had the oil changed and installed Mobil Delvas Elite 15W40 Synthetic. I have now driven 750 miles and had another oil analysis done. The readings are were 58 ppm for Sodium, 98 ppm for Potassium and 0 ppm for glycol. Engine oil pressure is normal about 60 psig at 1700 rpm and engine water temperatures is normal about 190 degrees. I would like to make it home if I can which is about 1300 miles. I have heard of a couple of home remedies and wonder if they would hurt. One is putting coarse black pepper in the radiator, another is putting mustard in the radiator and then the other is putting Bars Leak-the pellet kind in the radiator. Has anyone done this? Thanks.
  11. Can anyone share their experience with the MaxxForce diesel engine? I am familiar with Cummins and somewhat with Caterpillar. We are considering a Monaco or Holiday Rambler that runs the MaxxForce so would like to hear about performance or maintenance issues you may have encountered.
  12. From the album: Beaver Maintenance

    Taking delivery of a new-to-us coach, I noticed a faint haze of diesel in the bedroom under way. Back home in the shop, I removed the engine hatches and cleaned them thoroughly, applied fresh stainless steel tape around the edges, lubbricated the seals, adjusted the latches and reinstalled the hatches.
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