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My wife and I just bought a 2014 Fleetwood Terra coach. We took delivery of the unit in Michigan and drove it 700 miles home to Delaware. During the drive, we noticed that the dashboard is loose on the passenger side and moved quite a bit (maybe a quarter of an inch?) when traveling over rough roads. There is also a noticeable squeak from that side as well. I crawled under the dash when we got home but can't figure out why the dash isn't attached to the underframe or how to reattach it. Anyone have any similar experience? Any ideas how to correct this issue? The good thing is I'm pretty handy with tools, the bad thing is I have no experience with this type of repairs.

2015 FLEETWOOD Excursion 35b class a, Freightliner Cummins The button that turns on the dash ac has an led in it. When you push the button the led will not light up and the compressor clutch will not engage. The compressor and dryer were just replaced on the road when the compressor froze and broke the serpentine belt. Got back on the road, but can’t find the breaker/relay or what is bad.

The front overhead cabinet is falling down in our 2011 Fleetwood Discovery 40G motorhome starting on the right hand corner above the entry door. There was a 32" flatscreen TV installed when we bought the RV, but I removed it and converted the space into shelves, which are much lighter. We noticed the overhead separating from the ceiling a few months before I removed the TV. Now there is a good inch gap between the ceiling and overhead. I got the schematic from Fleetwood for the overhead, but it really does not show much. I just want to know if anyone else had dealt with this and can give some pointers before I dive into fixing it. I have attached a photo so you can have a better idea of what I'm talking about. Thanks! Don Lively

Thanks for any suggestions - I do not do my own repairs. Last week my 2000 Fleetwood Discovery (new air suspension bags in September, 2018) decided to set off the alarm that I had no air in my front suspension air bags. However, the coach did not act like it had deflated any air. The flip switch for air (auto or low) was in the correct auto position for moving down the road. So the dump valve may be sticking? Is this an easy fix? I took the coach to the Peterbilt in town (the nearest freight liner is 3 hrs away), they couldn't figure it out. The RV repair shop in the nearest town had no idea why that would occur, either. Suggestions on what I may be able to do myself (if minor) or how to be prepared to discuss with a reputable shop that won't "take a girl to the cleaners"? Thanks!

Hi all - during a particularly heavy rain this week, I just found two absolutely soaked towels between the driver's seat and the slide out on my 2000 Fleetwood Class A. I have been using additional towels and a heater to try and dry it out, but appears to still be pooling from somewhere? Roof is fine, slide cover is in tack (pulled in and dumped any pooled water on it), seals appear to be properly engaged. Any other suggestions? Many thanks!

We purchased a new 2017 Fleetwood Bounder 36H on July 1, 2017. The dealer service currently has it which marks a total of eight weeks in three visits. The coach's workmanship and quality are the worst that I have seen. One thing that seems to have no answer is the Carefree awning. Great idea if it worked. The structure and foundation of the system are so weak that the awning auto retracts in a nice breeze. Fleetwood made the decision to include the awning control in the Ilumiplex system eliminating the on/off switch supplied by Carefree. I would be concerned anyway as the awning bounces up and down in just a nice breeze so if I did shut it off I fear that any small gust would break it right off. Anyone have any suggestions? We will work through the rest of the poor design and quality issues but the awning concern seems to be hopeless. We have resigned to putting our lawn chairs under trees as the awning is useless.

I was wondering about the exact expiration of warranty. I purchased my 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U on May 28, 2017. It had 1,060 miles when I purchased it new from MHSRV. Question: On a car warranty it starts the day you drive off the lot, so, if the new car has 200 miles on it, the 36,000 mile warranty is good to 36,200 miles. Are RVs the same? So my 15,000 mile warranty would expire at 16,060 since I drove it off the showroom floor with 1,060? Issue #2- Even it the warranty is good to 16,060, it will expire by the time I get to the service facility... by a couple hundred miles. I've got several problems to be fixed, and they happened while under warranty, but as I said, by the time the coach makes it to the service facility, I'll be slightly over mileage. Is there a way to have it covered under warranty? One of my issues is a repeat issue from warranty work in October..... a few thousand miles ago..... does that make any difference? I've tried to call Fleetwood customer service, but they are closed until Tuesday. Just trying to get a head start on some information using the smart people on this forum. Thank you in advance- Eric

Our 2017 Fleetwood Bounder came with Sansui TVs that are poor quality. We wanted to replace the one in the living room with a Sony but discovered that it didn't fit in the existing wood frame. Without some wood-working modification we didn't see an option for the switch. Has anyone else run into this? If so, did you figure out a way to switch to a better TV?

So ... anyone who knows me can tell you that I think the government lies and lies again and couldn't tell the truth if the Holy Ghost made them. Thats said, I decided to take apart my carburetor in the genny and not to my surprise, i probably will be purchasing a new one next season. Now, Yall Diesel owners dont have this issue to worry about however, feel free to chime in because I am sure youhave dealt with it at somepoint. Many know I have had genny problems sense about April and I managed to work through most of them because whoever serviced the genny seemed to do 1 thing right and that was put a decent Mobil 1 oil filter on it. The BIGGER issue with this fuel I traced back to a line that appears to be cracked above the sender, and in certain conditions allows air to come in thus causing the genny to starve for fuel. I thought the pick up line on the sender was short, as Joe and I talk about my issues and this seemed to be something that happens at times but - I am well under a ½ tanks and the genny is running. So, I took the hose from the chassis to the fuel pump (along my chassis is a metal hose and then another rubber hose into the sender) and the carburetor to a trusted friend who is a marine mechanic. Milton took a look at both the hose and the carb and determined that the damage from the "Ethanol" has taken toll on the lines AND gummed the jet in the carb. The plastic float is starting to become gummy and when he cut the hose open he could see where the brittleness came from ethanol. Prior to me taking my carb and hose to Milton he asked me to bring a few gallons of gas from my tank so he could examine it a bit closer. One of the things he found was a presence of water in my fuel tank ... how he figured that out I dont know but he said it was there. ANYONE who took high school chemistry of Chem 101 knows that anything Alcohol is a SOLVENT therefore it will do what it says it will do. I am sure All of us who have gas coaches in the mid Atlantic have ethanol in our tanks sitting over the winter so unless treated (if thats even possible) we have dissolved deposits in our tanks as well as water because of Phase Separation; especially if you traveled to states like Tennessee, Florida, Georgia, and Texas who all have ethanol free gas stations and or pumps labelled ethanol free. In my infinite wisdom I filled up with non ethanol and created a potential problem - but I saw 12 miles vs 8 to the gallon pulling a 3500lb car ---HUMMMMMM wonder why? I am not worried about the V10 per sae cause even in 1999 fuel-injected vehicles were designed with stainless steel lines and fittings, modern coatings on cast parts, and plastic parts and tanks that are ethanol-proof so the main engine has no issues --- and the fill hose only sees the gas for seconds until the next fuel fill - not really a problem at least for now ... Lets get back top the genny, my coach spent 2014 - 2016 winters in Walden NY, kinda upstate but not NY City. It sat from The Summer of 2014 until I bought it in October 2016 - and I wasnt aware of that until I did some odometer math and my issues started to make sense. The Ethanol absorbed some of the water but I honestly believe i had a lower separation and a highly corrosive mix of water and ethanol - and when the previous owner ran the genny over the 18 months it sat, he sucked oxidized sour gas into that fuel line and it SAT ... eating away at the rubber compound. My carb is shot to who ha because that corrosive mix has eaten the inside of it and soon that will completely fail. So, if you are having genny issues (Specifically fuel Related) , and they are reoccurring every few years, I suggest 2 things, and I am still experimenting to see if this is possible ... 1. If you live in states that allowed NON ethanol gas (Maryland Banned it) pay the extra .70 a gallon as it will save you in the long run 2. If you can, consider a way to put a separate tank in your coach specifically for the genny. I am thinking about taking the spare out and ditching it for a 30 gallon gas tank for the genny - not sure how i am going to do it. 3. Think about putting a Y valve between the gas line on the main tank and a separate tank for the genny, will give you the ability to run a fuel that has an phase separation fighter for when the genny will sit for a bit. It keeps "good" gas in the lines and in the carb. 4. When replacing genny fuel lines skip the local advance auto ... buy a hose that is Polytetrafluoroethylene (P.T.F.E) lined which is teflon lined hose. Its expensive but so is a motorhome! 5. Be proactive ... dont wait til there is a problem to fix it,. Use some type of stabilizer, i personally have 15 bottles of Lucas Ethanol Fuel Conditioner on hand. It goes in when a. I fill up headed to the campground where the coach will/may sit for a week or more b. When i fill up and its going in the driveway for a few weeks until our next adventure c. if I am doing a long haul (Over 500 miles) I will drop some in so it at the last fill up before I hit the camp ground, and the last fill before I get home. I know I can not be the ONLY person with these issues so chime in if you have suggestion and or problems.

I have a 2007 Fleetwood Revolution, C9 Cat with an Allison Trans. I am getting a J1939 error periodically and at the same time several gauges stops working, red warning lights blink on those gauges and where the transmission gear numbers are displayed, they are "x".s or look like cat eyes. This tend to happed very randomly and not all of the errors. Lights, gauges stop working at the same time. It will happen off and on , again and again until things warm up then things work great throughout the warmer summer. While all this is going on, the coach still runs the same (very well). Once driven around 5-10 miles it seems to stop doing it and everything is fine. Someone told me he suspected a TCM or ECM connection or wire could be bad since this problem could be fine for months before doing it again but I had the wiring checked out all appeared OK. However, it seems to only do this in colder weather which makes me wonder if something internally in the modules can be bad?. The problem I’m having is finding someone nearby that can read Allison error codes. Allison seems to hold their proprietary close to their chest Anyone else had errors like this?

2007 Fleetwood Revolution. One of the contacts on the socket broke while replacing a 1157 bulb with LED bulb my son bought. The housing looks brand new. I found an entire assembly I think online for about $100 plus shipping. Surely someone knows where to get the socket portion. I think it is an original Hamsar STL 200 part 81144. Thanks for any help.

Hopefully I can explain my problem correctly, as it has me kind of perplexed! LOL! First, over the last several days I have had a couple occasions where I would go to start the engine on the coach, and there was no power (no lights, nothing). I could however, start the generator. With the generator running, I could then start the engine normally. Yesterday however, this stopped working. I tried to start the engine and it turned over once and that was it. After that I could not even start the generator. So, I checked my starting battery and noticed the indicator "eye" was red. I took it that meant it was a dead battery. I purchased and replaced the starting battery, and the coach started easily. Problem solved, right? So, I thought. I drove home (this was all happening on a trip of course!) and parked the coach in the shed, shut off the engine and plugged in to the 30amp shorepower. Everything came on as expected, but after 5 minutes or so all the power went off. I checked the breaker in my home, and it was not tripped. I could not get any power to come back on in the coach (not even battery power), and the generator would not start. Since I had the ignition problem previously, I figured I would see if I could start the coach, and it started with no problems. Surprisingly, about 10 seconds after the engine was running the power came back on in the coach. I was also able to start the generator again. Then I began troubleshooting: I unplugged the coach from shorepower, started the generator (with the coach engine running) and everything worked as expected. Then I turned off the ignition, the generator ran for about 10-15 seconds then shut down. All power was off. Not even anything from the house batteries. Then I did the same test with shore power connected. Same results, everything was fine as long as the engine was running (15-20 minutes at least) but as soon as I turn off the ignition, boom... no power. Notes: I do hear a "clunk" from the battery control center, right after starting the engine (at the same time the power comes back on). I also hear the same "clunk" when everything dies after turning off the ignition. Could the problem be in my BCC? Any tips on troubleshooting, or anyone that has had a similar issue? Thanks in advance for any help!

There have been several posts on this subject. I am starting a new post to keep from confusing the prior posts. Thank you everyone that takes the time to reply. We have had this coach (2011Fleetwood Discovery 42C) since November, 2010. This past May, we have moved onto the coach as full timers. Now that all components are getting full time use, we are finding many issues. This power issue started about a week ago. Every night at about 10 pm (coincidence?), we lose all power to the coach. The panel inside the coach says "no service". I go outside and check the power at the pole. The breaker is not tripped. The little green light on my plug is illuminated. The two red lights on my Surge Guard Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) are illuminated. As mentioned above, the panel inside the coach displays "No Service". I turn the shore power breaker off and unplug the cable. I turn on the generator and all power returns and the panel displays "generator". I turn off the generator and turn on both inverters (I have two Magnum MS2000). Power is restored. I turn off the inverters and plug the cable back into the campground power and turn the breaker back to the on position and the power is restored. Next night at around 10 pm, power goes out again completely. I asked the campground to check their electrical service and watched as their electrician check the 50 amp power outlet. Each leg checked out at between 118 and 125 volts. The total voltage when checked showed 225 volts. My next step is to get someone to check my ATS. One of the two inverters seem to be dedicated to the residential refrigerator. The other inverter is dedicated to the power outlets and air conditioners. About 2 months ago, I had to replace the inverter that controls the power to the coach. There was a problem with the internal relay that prevented the shore power from supplying power to the outlets. Everything has worked properly until this week. Any additional thoughts and suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

So ...our new to us Coach is finally home in its parking spot in the drive way and we are happy. This coach is bigger than the last one parked in that spot so it took some adjusting but glad it fit. I never took the time to introduce my family so I guess ill do it now. We are the Hayes Family from Baltimore Big Guy in the Middle is Keon (THATS ME!!!!) -- Pretty Lady to the Right is Michelle (The CEO of the Family) The Princess to the Left with her hair in Mickey Mouse ears in Nyere (My Little Strawberry) The Short Fella in front, that is Kyle (THE BIIIIIG BABY) Sense this is FAMILY "MOTOR COACH" ASSOCIATION and the family part is done, figured I'd introduce what our family travels in. This is our 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34V. At 34'11" she is by far the biggest thing in our block on wheels. She stands 11'9" tall and currently weighs about 17147lbs (Something like that I think). As you probably can tell we like WDW and we love to eat. We will try almost anything that doesnt smell like it will kill us. So, if we are camping close to us and need taste testers ... we love a good greasy spoon. We also like to cook and I think my pork chops are the best on the grill - but fried in some old country LARD they are better. According to the keep it healthy folks that may not be the best to fry in as frying is now no longer good for us but COME ON ... I drive a vehicle that gets 7 Miles to the Gallon so if thats acceptable then lard will be too. We are open to most any adventure so feel free to invite us along especially if you cook and dont mind sharing. We dont mind sharing at all so it wil be fun. Most of our travels for 2017 will be along the I-95 east coast area just because vacation and conventions tend to be on the east coast for us this year. So, hopefully we will meet other folks that are members of FMCA along the way. Our two biggest trips will be a Week long in the Shenandoah the week of July 23 and we will end our week in Doswell VA at Kings Dominion Camp Ground Area. October 18th we leave for Orlando for a 10 day in the Orlando Area. We are going to make stops in North and South Carolina's Georgia over 3 days and Finally sometime Saturday get to Orlando. Will roll out Friday and come back up the Shenandoah Valley though southern VA and finally across I-70 home to Baltimore. Thats us ... Thanks everyone for being so kind. Hope to meet a BUNCH of yall real soon now!

After 3 years we're almost on the road again! Sold our 2005 Cat power Renegade garage unit in 2014 after getting past the motorcycle traveling and moving to our next adventure. I looked at two used Fleetwoods yesterday with my 6 yr old grandson (Papa, are you getting another sleeper truck? - don't you just love that?) Our plan is near travel with 3 days overnight to the many parks in SC GA and NC. The first was a 2008 Terra 36T w/ 47K miles Chevy 8.1 with Banks Power reduced to $49500 from $55,000 and a 2006 Pace Arrow 36D Chev 8.l Workhorse for $62,500. Both @ 45K miles and in working order as per dealer/owner with great references. I'm inclined to think the Terra would be the better buy but exterior is not shiny like the painted Pace Arrow. All things equal to me I though I better reach out to the more experienced FMCA family for advice. Your comments appreciated!! 11/19 - Amazing what you learn by reading comments from FMAC - Ive increased my budget to look more - I passed on these two as not quite receiving the TLC Im used to giving-

2003 Fleetwood Bounder, 32W, Gas, Front TV Upgrade. I'm about to upgrade our front TV in the overhead from the old 10,000 pound anchor tube Panasonic to a nice 32" Sharp LED Flatscreen. I am hoping to be able to watch the new TV off of our batteries when we are NOT plugged into 110/120 and without the Generator running. The new 32 inch LED Sharp TV draws 65W. My Questions Are: 1. Is it feasible that I can run the new TV direct from my Coach Batteries. (2 new 6 volt Golf Cart type batteries). 2. Any technical tips on where to draw the power from and how? (The TV area only has the 110 recepticles there for plugin now). - Our recepticles only work on 110 when the Coach is plugged in, or from the genny when its on. (we are trying to avoid this when boondocking). - Up front there are 3 x 12V cig lighters (2 in dash & one under dash) but they appear to only come off the chassis battery? I am wondering if in theory this will work? (Running on the coach batteries). If it would work, and special tips on how to wire in the power? I think I would run a power line direct from the battery bank to a 12V cig style plug-in and plug in a car type Inverter by plugging it into that socket. Th TV would then plug into the Inverter. Am I on the right track? Any advice? Any help sure is appreciated! Jim