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I have a 2000 Monaco Diplomat 38b. We lost the alternator and can't open or close the slides now. Alternator changed and still no slides (don't know if there is a correlation). We are stuck in a parking lot in New Albany Indiana and frankly not sure what to try next. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi. New to the forums and wondered if anybody had the lengths on the hydraulic hoses (Lippert System) used for the leveling jacks and slide out on this coach? Thought I'd ask here BEFORE I shimmy my fat butt under the coach and start measuring and before I take them all off. Just replaced the motor and the saw that the hoses are falling apart... You'd think they wouldn't be so cheap as to not use regular hoses to save a 100 bucks. I'll bet SOMEONE has replaced all these hoses in the past... Thanks so much if you can help!

I cannot get the rear slide-out to go out. All other slide-outs are functioning correctly I have verified the switch is working correctly. I removed the trim piece to gain access to the slide-out motor. I removed the connector and attached a voltmeter. When I press the "In" on the toggle switch I get the expected voltage. I would expected to get the opposite voltage. I do not get anything. I created a jumper to reverse the polarity at the motor. When I pressed the "In" on the toggle switch and the slide went out. I believe the only three components are the switch, the slide-out relay controller, and the motor. There is the wiring as well. I believe I have proven the wiring to the motor and the motor itself are fine. I have also proven the switch is working. At this point the assumption is that there is an issue with the Slide-out Relay Controller. The slide-out relay controller is a "IDS 10667E". I have not been able to put my hands on one. This part is obsolete. IDS was bought out by Lippert in about 2014. They suggest their part number 138450 as a substitute. Note this is a single slide-out controller. Therefore it would require four to completely replace the "IDS 106667E." I order one as they are $188 each. I want to verify usability before spending $462. The problem at this point is figuring out the rewiring. Is there a schematic available for the Slide-out Relay Controller used in the 2007 Monaco Diplomat 40PRQ? I have documented the wiring colors at the four slide out switches. I have documented the wiring colors for the front two slides as they are easily accessed. I need to remove trim to do that for the rear slides. Currently I have not done that. Can I find that out without removing the trim? I have also documented the wires coming into the 10667E. There are two sizes of wires used. I assume the smaller size is the switch input. This should be a total of eight. There should also be eight thick wires for the motors. That makes sixteen wires. I have a total of twenty. I could assume that there is probably a B+ and a ground. I assume there is a lockout so the slides cannot be moved when the ignition is on. That might explain the remaining two wires. All might be well if I could map it all out to switches and motors. There is always something to keep you from getting to 100%. Where can I find this wiring documented? Forrest Towne

I changed the batteries in my 2007 Monaco Camelot 42PDQ and now the starter will not engage. Here is what I have found so far. If I jumper the small wire on the starter solenoid the engine will turn over, but not start. When the start position is engaged there is no voltage at this terminal. Most of the dash lights come on, but not the "Wait to Start" or the pushbuttons for the Allison transmission shift selections. The fuel gauge does not operate either. Have checked all the fuses I can find and all appear good. Ignition relays "click" when key is turned on. I don't think it is an ignition switch problem. Kind of ran out of everything I can think of to try so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

My suburban furnace in my 2001 Monaco Diplomat was cutting out one night due to high wind, it seems to have gone into lockout. I think there must be a reset switch. Does anyone know where it is?

I joined iRV2 after much reluctance in Sept 2014 for the Monaco group. I wanted to have a link for tips for my unit but found very little. I tried posting in the general forum and follow a few threads and found that if you don't agree with a few there that there will be so many personal attacks until the thread is closed. Not such a way so no one will see it anymore but only so no one can post in that thread. It got so bad that I asked a monitor to remove my subscription, profile and all posting. As of today they only removed my subscription. I'm looking for another Monaco site as the HR site don't look like it offer much. Does anyone know one to recommend that is FMCA approved?

I have a 2006 Monaco Dynasty with a dash air conditioning problem. The system quit cooling and I added Freon and it worked for about a day then quit cooling again. I took it into a very knowledgeable technician and he recharged the system and found the AC condenser was leaking. The condenser is mounted in front of the side mounted radiator in the rear. While recharging the system he noted the high pressure side was reaching 500 PSI and shutting off. He said that there needs to be some type of switch or something to make the hydraulic fans turn at a higher RPM to bring the condenser temperature down instead of an emergency type high pressure shut down of the compressor. He felt that the high pressure in the system most likely caused the condenser leak and that if a new condenser was installed it would most likely start leaking because of the extreme pressure in the system. He tried calling The RAV Group that apparently now owns the Monaco lines. They were of no help in trying to diagnose why the pressure was getting so high. If anyone has any ideas about what triggers the cooling of the side mounted AC condenser I would appreciate their comments. I do not want to replace the condenser until I can get the extreme pressures reduced which will require that the cooling fans are cooling the condenser to reduce the temperatures and thus the pressure in the system. Thanks, Jim

I have a 2006 Monaco Dynasty that uses 2005-2007 Ford F250-F550 truck headlights. I am wondering if anyone has switched over to the LED headlight bulbs and if so do you know which bulbs have to be changed? Are there both high and low beam bulbs or just one? Any recommendations for which brand or type bulbs to use? There seems to be many brands or types on the market. Thanks to all for their help,

I've been wrestling with a full-wall slideout topper since I bought this 2007 Beaver Patriot Thunder. As with most things, the problems trace back to incorrect maintenance. Early in its history, the long mast (these systems are engineered for much shorter lengths) cradle became loose, and the fabric-wrapped roller tube fell onto the top of the slideout. Someone replaced it with their own hardware, long boltsets which tore at the fabric and chewed holes in the aluminum extrusion (pn 1110089-30 Slide Lead Rail) in which the spline is retained. To compound their incompetence, they lined the cradle with duct tape, which broke down over the years and formed a sticky length of rope, impeding the roller action and shattering the mounting plates on either end. All that stress loosened the mounting brackets. In attempting to clean up their mess, I'm faced with grinding out the damaged backside of the second articulating rail. It is only a $60 item, but shipping for a single 30' length is a whopping $700. By comparison, an entire new topper system is $3,800 plus about $1,000 in shipping. The $1 million question for me: did the dealer from whom I bought the rig know this cascading maintenance failure was in play? If they did a decent inspection of the rig -- they had it long enough to install a Silverleaf system and day-night shades, front to back -- it would've been apparent. I noticed small tears in the topper fabric, some chipped paint on the outer portion of the rail. Of course, there was no way to see the massive damage inside until I cut the old fabric off, today. Recommended Action: Inspect topper fabric for tears, and observe extension and retraction for smooth operation. Lift the cover on longer toppers and check for security of the cradle mounting hardware, and check to see that nothing is binding during movement. Remove end covers and carefully inspect pn 1511100-00R Side Plate Assembly with Gudgeon Support to determine that the corners of the support adjacent countersunk holes have not cracked or broken (symptoms of binding). Following Girard procedures, remove tension from the topper, detach the topper fabric, and tighten the Allen screws that hold the entire assembly on the RV. I found 20% of mine either loose or missing. Time in service: 7 years Mileage: 30,000 miles Failure to accomplish these checks can lead to the assembly coming off the RV at highway speeds, which can cause injury or death to others. [My plan is to use aircraft building/repair techniques to rivet the cradle to the extrusion. Allen bolts will be dipped in thread locker, and then have torque seal applied after installation. The rail is unusable, I'll have Girard cut three ten-foot sections for shipping. This plan passes muster with my expert on all things Girard, Kevin Waite. He can be contacted at 541 953-6162 or by email at kvn.wt.7629@gmail.com.] Followup: Girard mentioned that the articulating extrusions are stacked, i.e. the fabric can be mounted to either. I used a bungee to hold them upright and closed the slide. To my absolute horror, the extrusion did not clear the mounting brackets, bending it backwards the same way your air conditioning unit did, that time you drove under the 12' overpass with a 12'2" rig Really. This is a manufacturing error by Beaver. The poor stupid technicians who rebuilt the cradle and saw the worn fabric simply didn't see that, upon closure, the fabric was sandwiched between crushed sections, and then mauled as the rig moved down the highway. Still, check your toppers. That tube for one weighs some fifty pounds and will leave a mark if it hits anyone, catapulted off your rig at seventy feet per second. Chances are, the strip didn't bind against the roller assembly when the bus rolled off the line. At 30 feet, a small amount of sag took place, and soon the parts started binding. Inept technicians failed to see what was happening, and inadvertantly made the situation worse. You humble correspondent is simply the boy with the shovel that follows their ugly parade...

One airbag loses air when parked. It works fine when driving. It has been in the shop for over a month. Any ideas?

I am a new owner of a 2007 Monaco Knight. I was quite surprised when I read the manual and it stated that most of the outlets were powered by the inverter but had no information on which did and which did not. I do notice that some outlets are white and some ivory. Is this a clue? I am going to use the inverter for the first time this weekend and it would be handy to know. Thanks in advance.

I have tripped a breaker some where for the 110 outlets on the left side of the coach and I am having a hard time finding it. The breaker box in the bedroom is the only one I know of for the 110 stuff and none of them are tripped. I flipped them all off and back on just to make sure. Anyone have any ideas? 2003 Monaco Dynasty. Thanks for any help!

I have a 2005 Monaco Signature, Castle IV (45 foot with tag axle, ISX 525 Cummins, 315/80R22.5 tires). It is currently broken down over a thousand miles from home and sitting in a storage lot. I am considering having it hauled home, which I know will be quite costly. I have found a company willing to haul it, but before I continue, I need to make sure I have accurate specs. Since I am so far away from the motor home, I can't take these measurements myself so I am hoping someone with a unit like mine can help me out. All I have to go on right now is the RV literature I found online. It shows 12'6" tall (12'1" with A/C units, plus an additional 5" for satellite option; this motor home still has the factory satellite dome). I take it that this is the measurement when the coach is traveling down the road, when it is in the air ride travel mode. Can anyone confirm this from taking measurements? About how much will the coach lower when dumping the bags all the way? Also, has anyone weighed their motor home? I'm looking for a weight range. The black, grey and fresh tanks are all empty. The fuel tank is full. The inside contents are limited to dishes, etc right now. The basement storage is pretty loaded with tools, chairs and other miscellaneous supplies. Would it be safe to say it's in the 48,000 to 55,000 lb range, max? I had the coach weighed when I purchased it, but that paperwork is in the motor home cabinet over a thousand miles away. I'm hoping to get the coach home to my garage, where I have control over the repairs. I would SO appreciate some help with these numbers since I'm over a thousand miles away and unable to do it myself. Thank you in advance!

I need to replace the radiator in my 2005 Monaco Signature. The engine is an ISX 525 Cummins. I have 3 questions. 1. Does anyone know the part number for the replacement radiator? 2. How labor intensive/complicated is the replacement process? 3. Does it require any special equipment? Thanks in advance!

Just wanted to inform anyone interested in Holiday Rambler, Monaco, Navistar motorhomes that our new coach was never built correctly at the factory. For two years we had major electrical and structural problems.. a few examples: leveling system wanted to drop jacks while driving, slide out would not work unless I physically plugged and unplugged electrical wire harnesses under steps, electrical outlets worked on and off, electrical dash components(radio,camera) replaced, microwave replaced, generator never worked until fuel pump was replaced, three windows replaced, the windshield developed stress crack. The underlying problem was that the front and back caps were never attached to the roof. Rivets in the caps never penetrated through the fiberglass causing a gap the full width of the coach (front and back caps) When it rained, water would enter through the gaps and run down the channels that hold wires thus causing electrical problems. Since air was able to enter through the gap it caused vibrations thus structural problems occurred. Even though my coach was in the factory twice for months no one discovered the problem. While driving the coach in the rain to a dealer to get more repairs done before the warranty was to run out water started pouring out of the ceiling lights and speakers above the driver and passenger seats. By the time I arrived at the dealers I was soaked and the whole front cab was saturated with water. You may be wondering now what happened? All I can say is Holiday Rambler, Monaco, Navistar will take no responsibility of this serious matter. Customer Service has continued to lie and cover up any wrong doing. Please do not put yourself through a nightmare like this. Look elsewhere for a motorhome.

I am looking at a 2007 Monaco Executive to purchase. I am in the due diligence stage reviewing service history etc. I spent yesterday going through the interior with the wife and have a list of items, nothing that is a deal breaker. Tomorrow I will begin a more thorough check of the chassis and mechanicals. I got the serial number on the engine yesterday and will contact Cummins on Monday to see if there are any known concerns. I currently own a 2002 Alfa DP that is 37' and have done many upgrades and used the rig as a training / learning vehicle, but it is not a Monaco that is 44' with a tag axle. We are full time now and would like the extra room,,,, I think . The unit I am looking at appears to be in excellent condition both inside and out. It has very low miles which is both good and bad. It has a a 525hp Cummins ISX pre-emissions engine. I am having very little luck securing maintenance records which bothers me and makes my check out a little more difficult. If I believe the salesperson the rig was owned by a little old lady from Pasadena that only drove the rig on Sundays ha ha ha. I am looking for a technician or knowledgeable individual to go through a check out with me. Does anyone know of an individual in the Phoenix area that I can contact? Also any insight to the 2007 year Monaco's overall, suggestions and recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks Patrick 808-306-2403

I have a little seaplane, a jet ski with wings. A homebuilt aircraft. In our fleet, a dozen or so planes were built north of the border, in Canada. There, the Canadian Ministry of Transport dictated that (a) fuel boost pumps were not permitted inside the fuselage; and, ( inline fuel filters also constituted an unacceptable hazard. As a result, our small 400-plane fleet lost two of its dozen or so Canadian-certified aircraft, killing one of the pilots. Oddly, neither accident would have occurred, had the planes been certified to the more lenient US standards. My Beaver Patriot Thunder was also subject to the additional constraints of our northern friends, who I generally regard with admiration and profound respect. In the case of the Beaver, the front axle hubs were not allowed to have oil bath bearings, like American models. The logic: a leak might compromise braking. So, apparently, Beaver owners are afflicted with the same requirement of some older American models: periodic bearing repacking is needed. I've a few question for those who have to repack their steering axles: How often do you re-pack the bearings? Is the interval one of miles or years? What shop time is involved? How much have you spent in the past to have bearings repacked? Have you transitioned from packed to dry hubs? If so, what is required? Thanks for helping me get my bearings on... well, bearings

I am looking at a 2007 Monaco to purchase. I am in the due diligence stage reviewing service history etc. I've owned 1 DP previously but not a Monaco. I am looking for a technician or knowledgeable individual to go through a check out with me. Does anyone know of an individual in Phoenix area that I can contact? Thanks Patrick 808-306-2403

I'm the second owner on our 2004 Monaco Diplomat, I never got keys for the side bay door that has the vent for trany cooler and access to the two fuel filters. They look to be a round key, like some bike locks. I just take the nut off the back when changing filters, but it's getting old. Thanks.

HI, I am looking to buy some wire shelves for the adjustable pantry in our 1997 Monaco Windsor. They are designed to hold canned goods. Any one have any ideal where to buy these?

I have had ongoing problems with my tach and speedo acting erratically. I have taken it to Allied in Coburg and they fixed it for 500 miles and told me it was a grounding problem. I have had other members indicate similar problems. Yesterday while returning from The FMCA rally in Albany, I ran the generator and the AC while travelling. Lo and behold the tach and the speedo worked perfectly. Yahoo....what a thrill to have a tach when running up and down mountains. So, I spent last night trying to draw a conclusion as to why the generator running fixed my problem. Transfer switch came to mind, but no other logical connections could I make. Any ideas Wolfe or Herman or anybody?

We have a 2002 Monaco Diplomat 40PBT with the Cummins ISC engine. Last night on the way home from a trip, it died while driving. It had been running fine with no issues and without warning, the dash chimed, the lights on the indicator panel all went out, engine died and lost power steering. I was able to coast it to a safe spot. Though the engine stalled, the generator continued to run fine. We checked all the fluid level, rechecked the sliders, checked the battery voltage and everything looked fine. Both the house and chassis batteries were fully charged, so it didn't appear to an alternator issue. We still had over 1/2 tank of fuel. The fuel filters and fuel/water filter had all been changed within the last 1000 miles. We tried to disconnect the batteries and let it sit for a while then try to start it up. Nothing. No chimes or lights on the dash when the key was turned on, it was simply dead. Fuses and everything looked good. We finally resorted to having the coach towed home - ironically, it had died turning into our community, so the tow was about 300 yards! I tried it one more time to see if she would power up and nothing as before. This morning I went out to the coach to get something and tried to start it up. She started right up and purrs like she usually does. Everything seems to be fine this AM. I haven't driven it yet though. Any thoughts or ideas on the cause? Not feeling comfortable with the idea of driving it without knowing what happened. While doing some research online this morning, I saw two references to issues similar to this where the owner stated a 'weak relay' was changed, but no indication of which relay it was. Thanks in advance for any help!

2007 45’ Monaco Dynasty; ISL400; Allison transmission; custom chassis built by Roadmaster; side radiator; 60K miles; Since we overheated 2 years ago, we have had a constant overheating problem when the ambient temp is over 80 degrees and engine underloaded. I've learned to downshift and have become very aware of the timing of heating and fan starting. It seems to me that the fan doesn’t come full on at the right times. Downshifting helps only to an extent. When I run the rpms above 2200, the temp will hold. I’ve tried both automatic and manual shifting and found that it makes no difference. Multiple times the coach has been checked and “repaired” in Albuquerque, Los Angeles, Sacramento, El Paso, and Coberg. The following things have been done: Silverleaf twice showing overheating, but no correction; thoroughly cleaned radiator; checked for blockages; replaced engine water thermostat multiple times; set radiator fan to full speed and checked to assure that fan speed is correct; flushed radiator; and replaced control valve associated with the hydraulic fan pump. I’ve been to Cummins, Freightliner, a Sacramento truck repair and also a reputable RV repair, and key RV places in Coberg. It was checked by the engineer who designed the Monaco system and now works independently. I do not know whether the CAC has been cleaned or whether the cap was changed. Will have that done next week. What are other areas to check? Any thoughts on qualified repair places in the Sacramento area? thanks! Thanks for the suggestions on Forum topics. We've done them except for the CAC and cap.

Im looking for advice or opinions on the differences on owning a bus conversion vs a high end purpose built DP. A little history on me. My parents had a slide on camper, I bought Lance in 92'. Out grew it by 97' and purchased a new HR Endeavor 330 hp cat, single slide. At over 110k miles, i'm looking to upgrade to bath & 1/2, and more power to pull my (12k max) trailer. I am a DYI guy. I somewhat enjoy doing maintenance, and major repairs. I don't want to buy a constant project. I've owned several semi trucks. They are designed to be repaired easily (relative to my HR). I would consider a semi conversion but I've not seen the high end quality that I find in Monaco, Beaver, Prevost, Newell, Foretravel etc. Also, I can see on multiple passenger trips, giving passengers motion sickness, with lack of forward vision. My trips are maybe 60% driving, 40% just overnight. I enjoy the open road. So the ride, ease to repair, comfort and quality are very important. I've spent a lot of time reading your Forum and enjoy the wisdom. Just became a FMCA member tonight because of the honest intellect on the Forum.

I saw the new Holiday Rambler Ambassador at the Redmond reunion and now there is coverage on it in FMCA magazine as a comeback. When I went to the reunion one of the things I wanted to see is the new HR's to see what improvements were made. I toured a few coaches before I found the HR and Monaco displayed in the back end of the lot. I was dismayed of what I saw and here is why. 1. HR had only two displays, the Vacationer and the Ambassador. 2. The displayed of the Ambassador is like the picture on the front cover of FMCA magazine. The first thing that bother me was the bright glare of the tan paint walking up to the front of it. 3. The next thing that bother me as well as my wife is that HR put the door midway behind the slide. Then there is only one handrail to get you inside the bottom step and your on your own to get the rest of the way up and in. It also takes away from the layout of the coach as that brings on the next point. 4. The mid entrances and the step well takes away from the space from the middle of the coach. HR answered that by eliminating the love-seat. The power room also has much wasted space with too much cabinetry. All that is needed there is a toilet and a sink with just enough cabinet to keep hand towels and toilet supplies. 5. My wife and I always felt that a large window at the head of the bed is a bad idea. Too much light and noise at the top of our heads isn't something we want. A better option is to have smaller windows on the side of the slide with a double shade to block light if needed. These windows would be at eye level and more acceptable if there are windows in that area at all. 6. We like the bathroom in the rear of the coach but there is a layout problem there also. The shower is too small as older style tub like showers of the 80. Move the shower to where the toilet is where there is more space for a larger one. If the sink is moved to the corner there will be more space for cabinetry floor to ceiling across the rest of the back of the coach. Those that demand a washer and dryer can go back there also. Why in the heck would you want it in the bedroom? 7. The placement of the TV in the center of the coach is in a place that would be better utilized as more kitchen space. How about hanging that from the ceiling right behind the driver seat at a slight angle for better viewing from the seating area? 8. The only improvements I see is better TV's and residential refrigerator option. All of the other coaches have it as well as the Retro Winnebago Brave. If you have a older coach, those can be updated as well as the generator auto start if house batteries gets too low. 9. Going through the new Ambassador I found much less of just about everything compared to the Ambassadors before the crash of 2008. Less engine, transmission, chassis, length, tires, towing capacity and generator. There is so many other things if you look at the specs that are less than what it was and I consider this a step down not an improvement of what the Ambassador use to be. One thing that is less that we may all like is starting at $206,000 the price is less. But as it goes we all get what we pay for.