tarheels293 Report post Posted January 1, 2017 Unbelievable week, after being broke down all week with an ARD head bad my wife and I made it to North Carolina.when I started the generator (Onan) no power. We were at a rest stop so I couldn't check the land power. I took my DVM and went to the ATS, removed the cover and oh my gosh what a smell. Wires burnt everywhere. It has a Iota engineering its-50R. Would you go back with this model or go with something else? Something better. This was our first trip. 1400.00 for 2 front tires, $3500.00 ARD head, now this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted January 2, 2017 The usual cause of burnt wires is a loose connections. All the different brands will have the same results with loose wires. All the terminals should be checked annually. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted January 2, 2017 1 hour ago, desertdeals69 said: The usual cause of burnt wires is a loose connections. All the different brands will have the same results with loose wires. All the terminals should be checked annually. Yup, part of a good annual inspection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheels293 Report post Posted January 2, 2017 Thanks for the info, is this a good unit? I guess what I'm asking--is this the unit you would put in your RV. My first trip on it and I'm not having any luck with this RV. Just bought it from Camping World. As is, so I just want to put back the best I can. I would have thought they checked it out good before they sold it to us. I am a newbie and I really appreciate your help. I usually have my grandkids on board, but this trip (think God) we didn't. We just want it safe for them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted January 2, 2017 Two things: 1. RV's ARE complex vehicles, so they do experience issues. 2. As you catch up on what may have been neglected maintenance AND get to know the rig better, things will calm down. I have no first hand experience with that particular ATS-- I am sure others will comment. As already posted, loose connections cause heat, causes oxidized wire causes more heat and loosening..... So whatever unit you use, once a year, take the 3 minutes it takes to check all connections. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted January 2, 2017 Had to install a new transfer switch before we took our first trip. Worked OK for genset to power the a/c while I was working in and around the 11 year old unit. If I was not a member of this forum, I wouldn't have known what to do. Agree with Brett-- as you get to know the unit things will probably smooth out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jrock Report post Posted January 2, 2017 OH NO not another satisfied CW customer when we bought our Sportcoach they told me it was meticulously maintained by the previous owner guess what I should have RUN!! Brett is right on about getting to know your rig you do get more confident as time goes on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 4, 2017 Tarheels293, I have the same one in my coach, there was a recall on them for fire problems but I believe it was for units around the 2007-2008 year, I believe it was a wiring connection problem, not so much a component problem. I have had some quirky issues with ours at the end of last year. I was told by REV to use this one (link below), they have had good luck with it. Since CW sells these I would lean on your selling dealer to send one no charge and install it yourself. Being you were a car mechanic for 40 years this should be a snap. If you are not comfortable take it somewhere and have it done. If you choose to tackle it just make sure the coach is unplugged from shore power and you genset is disabled just in case it has an auto start. http://www.trci.net/products/surge-guard-rv/transfer-switches/50a-hardwires-41260 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 4, 2017 If you want one with gadgets, this model has an optional remote screen and full surge protection built in. I like the idea of the remote screen so you can see what's going on but would rather keep it separate from the surge protection, just in case its less to replace. http://www.trci.net/products/surge-guard-rv/transfer-switches/50a-plus-hardwire-rvc-ats Looks like pricing is as follows; TRC Model 40100. The basic ATS switch is around $130 TRC model 41260. up graded ATS with surge and open neutral, miss wired pedestal $260 TRC model 40350RVC. Top of the line, all surge and ATS remote screen for inside $700 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheels293 Report post Posted January 5, 2017 Thanks jleamont, you sure have been a good friend the last 2 weeks and I hope I can repay the favor. I have another question about this problem. My wife and I noticed that on the intellitec load meter it's not showing the amps, on gen set or 50 amps. My other rv showed on gen set , but not on 50amps. So could this bad ats be the reason? Again thanks very much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheels293 Report post Posted January 5, 2017 Yes obedb, I couldn't imagine dealing with all these problems without the help from this forum and these guys. It has been the best tool in my tool box. I'm just hoping I'm not wearing out my welcome. So Brett don't get any big idea's and block me out. Thanks guys..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 5, 2017 11 hours ago, tarheels293 said: My wife and I noticed that on the intellitec load meter it's not showing the amps Snap a picture and attach it. here is a link where a similar situation to yours came up. Also, no problem if you have any questions just ask. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted January 5, 2017 Another thought/ I have mentioned this before, but! Our first Class A was a 1988 Georgie Boy Cruise Aire II. It was wired for 50 amp service and had a gas generator that would run both A/C s, the converter, and a microwave at the same time. No transfer switch. When you unhooked from park power you plugged the power supply cord into the output socket of the generator. Could not be simpler and more reliable. I looked into the transfer switch that failed, and compared the blades on the 50 amp cord to the relay contacts. The transfer switch looked rather delicate, which in my mind "begs the question/ why do they exist?" When you are back there, how much trouble is to easily plug the cord into the genset's power out plug. No time lost at all. Kinda makes me scratch my head!!!? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 6, 2017 Obedb, my friends last Class C was an 2009 and he had the same set up as your last coach. Both coaches we have owned had transfer switches. Sometimes simple is better. I could see people increasing the chance of electrocution, plugging into the tower and realizing it wasn't connected in the electrical bay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheels293 Report post Posted January 6, 2017 Thanks jleamont, that was some good reading back there. I would sure love to learn more about that auto start for the generator you were talking about. And yes obedb , I guess they think we're to lazy to plug in a cable . It would sure be one less thing to go bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted January 6, 2017 My power cord was hard wired into the coach on the delivery end. It was idiot proof. Plug into the pedestal in the park or plug into genset output before you head out in case you want to microwave something or run a roof top A/C, etc. I wish that our Phaeton was wired that way. Might take a look at doing that, but the job jar is already kinda full. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted January 6, 2017 There are THREE options here (selecting from two different 120 VAC power sources): 1. ATS 2. An outlet in the coach where one has to manually remove the cord from one power source and plug in the other. 3. A mechanical switch such as this (very common in marine applications): https://www.bluesea.com/products/9019/AC_Rotary_Switch_-_OFF_%2B_2_Positions_240V_AC_65A Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 6, 2017 Obedb, if I were going to change it out to something simple, the mechanical switch would be my first choice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 11 hours ago, jleamont said: Obedb, if I were going to change it out to something simple, the mechanical switch would be my first choice. I had a older coach that was like Obed's. Mine was a 26 ft 1978 Executive by Monaco. You had to plug the shore power into the generator. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted January 7, 2017 Bill/ why? A heavy duty fifty amp socket permanently mounted in a convenient place to hook a hard wired power cord. I remember our Georgie Boy. Could not have been simpler to use and nothing to wear out. Some transfer switches are quite pricey. Just throwing this out there for consideration by people that like simplicity and dependability. It worked very well for me for years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 I wasn't clear, you plugged the hard wired power cord (it was only 30 amp) into shore power or into the generator. No transfer switch. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TuckPutnam Report post Posted February 16, 2017 I just repaired a Monaco with the IOTA-50R fried: The top cables are from the Generator, Center Power cord for shore power and the fried terminals, are to the circuit breaker box. So much heat was generated on the neutral terminal block (used to be white) that it welded itself to the hot (black) IOTA installed wiring. This also destroyed the 50 amp Service Pole circuit breaker. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted February 16, 2017 Welcome to the forum. Did you find out what caused it to fry? Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted February 16, 2017 Our last coach looked like that after a Low voltage condition at a CG. Ironically that is the same Transfer switch in our current coach, but it doesn't look like that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 16, 2017 Just wanted to clear up something. Very few coaches had 30A in 1978 as most RV Parks only had 15 or 20A. Took a long time before they came out with 50A in Campgrounds! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
