jenmacias2015 Report post Posted January 10, 2018 So I've browsed through some of these topics already, but I have a unique situation. Our water filter broke on the water pump, which means it was at full suction. It was the original on our 2002 Bounder 31W, so of course they don't make that model anymore. I bought a new water pump thinking this would fix everything, well now I've run into the issue that it won't draw water from the tank. I hooked it up independently and it did pull water from a bucket. How would I have a crack in my line just from changing pumps? Anyone else have this issue? I also let it run for a while, and it still didn't work. It will pressurize when hooked up to city water. Thanks!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 11, 2018 jen. What size & brand water pump did you buy for a replacement? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted January 11, 2018 2 hours ago, jenmacias2015 said: So I've browsed through some of these topics already, but I have a unique situation. Our water filter broke on the water pump, which means it was at full suction. It was the original on our 2002 Bounder 31W, so of course they don't make that model anymore. I bought a new water pump thinking this would fix everything, well now I've run into the issue that it won't draw water from the tank. I hooked it up independently and it did pull water from a bucket. How would I have a crack in my line just from changing pumps? Anyone else have this issue? I also let it run for a while, and it still didn't work. It will pressurize when hooked up to city water. Thanks!!! Jen, you do have an air leak in the plumbing system. The fact that the pump works moving water from a bucket - eliminates the pump. Questions Is the pump mounted higher then the water supply point for the pump? Have you connected the coach to a city water supply? If so does everything work normally? with no leaks? When the pump and water filter was installed - did you use some Teflon tape on the threaded connections? By chance is there a shutoff valve between the supply side of the pump and the water tank, also, is the plumbing set up with bypass plumbing that allows you to fill the water tank from city water? Leaving this by pass valve open just a little, would prevent the pump from priming? Even the smallest leak can prevent the pumps from priming. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted January 11, 2018 I will assume you have water in the water tank. Is the valve turned to fresh water fill by chance? The pump will not prime if that's the case. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted January 11, 2018 Jim, you are right. When I was getting ready for a trip I had put some water in the tank and was going to wash my hands after putting the hose away and the pump would run but no water. I said some unpleasant things before I found the valve in the wrong position. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted January 11, 2018 jen, Have you checked the direction of the flow on the pump? Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 11, 2018 I'm putting my $$ on the shut off valve....got the T-shirt along with WBill ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted January 11, 2018 2 minutes ago, manholt said: I'm putting my $$ on the shut off valve....got the T-shirt along with WBill ! How do you think I knew to ask about the valve? Been there too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted January 11, 2018 I think this is one of those things that isn't in the documentation and when you ask the factory they say well everyone knows that. Now I hope that is the problem for the OP. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jenmacias2015 Report post Posted January 26, 2018 Sooo just an update, I put the old pump back with the half broken seal, and my water flowed..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 26, 2018 Jen. Glad to hear that it's working, but it's only temporary as the underlying cause is still there. I suspect you have a Surflow 2.5gpm or 3gpm pump, do you know what it is? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jenmacias2015 Report post Posted January 27, 2018 So I attached the photos of what the broken one installed looks like. It has a very different filter that surflow doesn't make anymore. I'm curious if there's just too much tension on the 90* connectors that somehow make it have an air leak? I'm just not sure how to go about modifying the housing to make it not so tight. I've looked at other pumps, but it looks like they all use this same setup now as the seaflo we got. I attached some pictures so you can get an idea of what it looks like. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Jen, Info on the OEM Sureflow pump. They do list a check valve for the pump, but I do not see any reasion it needs to be in the supply line side. The lift for both pumps is about the same/ but most RV water supply tanks are above the pumps and can gravity feed the system. Where is you water tank in relation to the pump? http://shurflo.com/images/files/RV_Product_Data_Sheets/Classic_Pumps/pds-2088-422-144.pdf Information I found on Seaflow pump - there is no information of a check valve. The 33-Series is our general-duty on-demand positive displacement pump. It provides reliable performance in high water flow, moderate pressure applications. This 3-chamber diaphragm pump provides up to 3.0 gallons per minute and is capable of self-priming up to 6vertical feet, and can run dry without damage. Serves 3 or more 1/2” (13 mm) outlets. This automatic demand water system pump has a built-in pressure switch, which automatically starts and stops when the faucet is opened and closed. They're easy to install, service and winterize. http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/604.html Picture of the pump, adapters and water filter. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Jen, in looking online for pictures of the seaflo pump, I notice that when looking at the pump from opposite end of the motor, there is an arrow that points away from the pump. If yours looks like that, make sure that the filter is on the opposite side from where that arrow is located, and that the tank side for water supply is connected to the filter side. If it is not connected in this manner it is plumbed backward. Any arrow that points to the pump head then that will be the filter and tank side. Also make sure that the electric supply is connected correctly, ie + to + and - to -. This pump is the closest to yours that I could find a picture of that you can see the arrow on, looking at the right pipe fitting you can see the arrow that I am talking about. Also please note that the fittings do not look like regular pipe fittings. This may require a fitting that uses a rubber washer much like the fitting that that attaches the water supply line to the bottom of your toilet tank. A regular pipe fitting is not compatible with this kind of fitting, making for a sure air leak. If you are sure about the fitting type, you can take the pump to a plumbing supply store for advice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jenmacias2015 Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Yea, sadly I had the filter and everything hooked up exactly right. Hence why my water from the bucket test worked. I'm really starting to think it's from the extra tension on my two 90 elbows for the water lines. The new filter on the new pump puts an extra almost 2" on the pump, so it's a real challenged to get them screwed on. I think I will have to modify my wet cabinet to have the hoses come out somewhere else to get rid of the tension, or drill into the metal more so the lines have more room to spread out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Jen. I asked Linda (my significant other) about any flow restrictions on a 2.5 to 3gpm water pump with L fittings...she said there would not be any noticeable difference. Linda was in the water well drilling business for 25 years. The main difference between the 2 pumps, that I have found is that SeaFlow is used primarily in a marine application and the water tank is generally below the pump...SurFlow has been building pumps for the RV industry for over fifty years and the water tank is generally at level with or above the pump (back in the 70's the pump was at the same level, inside the coach as the water tank was under the bed. Now, will a $30 dollar pump work as well as a $60 dollar one, over time? I think Brett or Joe S would have the most knowledge about the 2 pumps....they both have or had boats with full inside plumbing. FYI. Linda replaced her 3 chamber SurFlow in December, with the new 4 chamber SurFlow "Revolution". She and I both taught it was not working, we could not hear it, but the water flowed on demand (she has a 2006 Phaeton 40DP). The pump was a 2004 model. I'm having mine replaced Monday, my coach is a 2010, my pump is a 2004. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Jen, the filter does not have to be attached to the pump, since this is a concern, why not put an elbow next to the pump then plumb the filter after the elbow, much easier than modifying the wet cabinet. The filter is in front of the pump only to keep any granules from harming the pump, so make sure that the piping is free from any of that between the filter and the pump. Also an extruded pipe street elbow can gain you some room. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jenmacias2015 Report post Posted January 27, 2018 10 hours ago, kaypsmith said: Jen, the filter does not have to be attached to the pump, since this is a concern, why not put an elbow next to the pump then plumb the filter after the elbow, much easier than modifying the wet cabinet. The filter is in front of the pump only to keep any granules from harming the pump, so make sure that the piping is free from any of that between the filter and the pump. Also an extruded pipe street elbow can gain you some room. Ohhh never thought of this!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Actually, after looking at your original pump set up, it already has what appears to be the correct fittings for your new pump, those water hose looking ends which are already at 90%, you could take and cut the feed hose from the tank 3 or 4 inches before the elbow, cut a very short piece of it out, then take the filter and the short to a box plumbing store. Find the correct barb fittings to fit the pump pipe threads, attach the two barbs, of course making sure that the flow is correct on the filter, two new hose clamps on each side of the filter. Hopefully this will end your worries. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
