tngleim Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Sorry about the font. First off, thanks for the feedback on my post last week titled "House Batteries Not Providing Power. Cannot Get Into Coach" I had the batteries out being tested and by the time I got them back the post was closed (I didn't know that happened if I lagged in commenting). I'm in the coach, I've got power to the house, I'm able to start the generator, but I've got another problem. When I put the key in the ignition and turn it one click the instrument panel lights come on and go through their cycle of flashing as normal. Once that is done and I go to start it, nothing happens. No noise at all. I've also noticed that the lights that normally come on on the Transmission Shifter Pad do not light up showing what gear the transmission is in. Additionally the Power Gear Pad which shows the airbag mode does not light up like it normally does. I know the batteries are good, I've cleaned the posts and terminals, and I know its getting some power from the chassis batteries because I hear a beep when I turn the disconnect with from off to on. Another reason I know there is power from the chassis batteries is the power door look operates when I have the switch on but does not operate when I have the switch turned off. I'll attempt to attach pictures to give you a visual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted January 27, 2018 tngleim, Could you post the Model , Year and make of your coach for the group? Not sure what happened to your original post - regarding the entry issue ether? Think it might be the ignition solenoid causing the issue with the no start problem, the one pictured is larger and is a Disconnect solenoid. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Geez, how silly on my part. Its a 2007 Beaver Contessa, C9 CAT. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted January 27, 2018 2 hours ago, tngleim said: Geez, how silly on my part. Its a 2007 Beaver Contessa, C9 CAT. I do not have any information on the wiring for your model year coach. it is a little hard to come by. Hopefully one or more of the forum members has some good info. or feedback. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ckcarpenter42 Report post Posted January 27, 2018 The Beaver Ambassador Club is an FMCA Chapter which as a Technical Forum on its website: http://beaveramb.org/technical-support/ They may have access to the wiring diagrams or provide other information. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard5933 Report post Posted January 28, 2018 Have you checked the ground connections? These types of things can be caused by ground connections which are weak or failing. There should be at least a couple of these to check, maybe more depending on how yours is wired. One ground cable usually goes from batteries to a ground post on the chassis. Another would probably be found between your engine and the chassis. There might be another near your starter. If your ground connections are not good then enough juice can flow to temporarily have dash lights working, but as soon as you try the starter the ground connection cannot handle the current flow. Are the connections to your starter and/or starting solenoid clean and tight? Does your coach have a neutral safety which prevents starting when the vehicle is not in park/neutral? If so, is it working? On my GMC if the transmission is not neutral (or if the neutral safety switch sticks) nothing happens at all when I turn the key. Just a few things to double check. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted January 28, 2018 18 hours ago, ckcarpenter42 said: The Beaver Ambassador Club is an FMCA Chapter which as a Technical Forum on its website: http://beaveramb.org/technical-support/ They may have access to the wiring diagrams or provide other information. Great idea. The previous owners suggested we join the BAC and now seems the right time. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted January 28, 2018 12 hours ago, richard5933 said: Have you checked the ground connections? These types of things can be caused by ground connections which are weak or failing. There should be at least a couple of these to check, maybe more depending on how yours is wired. One ground cable usually goes from batteries to a ground post on the chassis. Another would probably be found between your engine and the chassis. There might be another near your starter. If your ground connections are not good then enough juice can flow to temporarily have dash lights working, but as soon as you try the starter the ground connection cannot handle the current flow. Are the connections to your starter and/or starting solenoid clean and tight? Does your coach have a neutral safety which prevents starting when the vehicle is not in park/neutral? If so, is it working? On my GMC if the transmission is not neutral (or if the neutral safety switch sticks) nothing happens at all when I turn the key. Just a few things to double check. Thanks richard5933. I'll pursue your ideas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 28, 2018 tn. Under electrical, there is a post about Allison 3000....look at it, he's got a Beaver also, and about the same problem you have...he finally found the problem! Please read the last 2 or 3 entries! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted January 28, 2018 5 hours ago, manholt said: tn. Under electrical, there is a post about Allison 3000....look at it, he's got a Beaver also, and about the same problem you have...he finally found the problem! Please read the last 2 or 3 entries! Thank you sir. I'll take a look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 29, 2018 tngleim. I'm too young for "sir", the name is Carl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted January 30, 2018 I found what appears to be a blown 200A fuse in the distribution box. I'm going to try to get it to it today (5 degree wind chill, yikes) or tomorrow before I go out of town for a while. Here's a picture of the fuse, the one on the left. Looks blown to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted January 30, 2018 Sure looks blown, if you have a volt ohm meter, place the meter to read ohms, place one lead on the right side, the other on the left, on both of those fuses, the one on the right should read zero, if the one on the left shows any other number, it is blown. I'm only adding this to the post for demonstration of getting used to reading an ohm meter for the purpose of using a vom while troubleshooting, very simple test for continuity that helps overcome visual inspection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted January 30, 2018 In the very first picture, on the right side there appears to be 4 more fuses. The one on the upper left side also appears to be blown. Am I just seeing things??? Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeloke Report post Posted January 30, 2018 Looks like it to me also Herman. Odd that they are blowing. tngleim.......have your electrical systems worked perfectly in recent past and now the gremlins have just shown up? I'm wondering what, if any, significant event has caused things to go haywire. In the first set of pictures above what are the two sets of battery cable leads going to? The leads coming off of the one battery that looks to be away from the camera. Assuming those are your chassis batteries? What voltage do you get there? Blake Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted January 30, 2018 I think that the OP referred to the fact that some batteries were relaced, then the gremlis began, most likely a short occured at that point and now the fuse replacement begins. I sure hope that all is well when the 200 amp fuse on the left side is replaced, but if not then all other fuses will need to be checked after that move. I also noticed that the washer under the nut holding the cable to the the left side appears to be crinkled, another sign that a short, or at least a posible touch of battery cable to the wrong post. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted January 31, 2018 I replaced the fuse and it still won't start. Herman, the 4 fuses on the other side are all good. I did get a spark with I re-installed the batteries so that may be the root cause. Kaypsmith, I'm not following the crinkled washer comment. If your referring to the washers under the nuts holding the bad fuse, they looked normal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted January 31, 2018 Probably just the light, or just the way it looks in the picture, but the one on the left on my monitor appears to be slightly discolored and not the same texture as the one on the right. Have you used your volt meter on the start solenoid while someone else tries to crank yet? And also verified that there is voltage on the big lug on the input side of the start solenoid? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 31, 2018 Kay. I think it's the light, I also think there is a wire that is replaced on the wrong post, when he installed the batteries...200A is quite a blow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted January 31, 2018 Kay, that may be the 200 amp fuse the OP replaced. It is still my opinion that the Batteries are not wired correctly. If when hooking them back up and Blew a 200 amp fuse there is definitely something amiss. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted January 31, 2018 Well, I heard the most beautiful diesel engine ever running a short time ago. Yes, the mystery has been solved. After replacing about a half dozen cooked fuses I found the culprit in the rear distribution box. It was a 15a fuse called VEC-2 Batt Transmission on the bottom left of the panel. Once I replaced the fuse, a TCM light on the panel lit up and a short walk to the drivers seat revealed the transmission control pad was lit! So the final results are...I replaced blown electrical bay fuses F10, F43, F45, F46, and F81. F46 got the Valid system to fire back up, and F43/F45 eliminated the fault code I was getting on it. In the rear distribution box I replaced the far left ANL 200a fuse and the VEC-2 fuse. This coach does not have the VIM (Allison Transmission Box) that we were searching for. I'd like to thank you all on the forum for the interest and comments with my situation. You have taught me a lot. Also thanks to Beaver Coach Sales for their support. It's comforting to have a community of great folks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted January 31, 2018 Excellent. Thanks for the update. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted January 31, 2018 Great, how many fuses did you find blown? Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted January 31, 2018 6 hours ago, hermanmullins said: It is still my opinion that the Batteries are not wired correctly. If when hooking them back up and Blew a 200 amp fuse there is definitely something amiss Herman, I agree and now the mystery is solved. Great job tngleim, persistency pays, now go warm up! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tngleim Report post Posted February 1, 2018 1 hour ago, hermanmullins said: Great, how many fuses did you find blown? Herman 5 in the electrical bay and 2 in the battery distribution box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
