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Daneast1

Furnaces cause lights to flicker

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Daneast1, check to see if this occurs if shore power is completely disconnected, also if the coach motor is running and shore power disconnected.

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Find and check all ground connections related to the Furnace. Your lights and furnace may both be on battery only and not through the inverter. There must be a loose or corroded connection in the 12 volt side. I would start with furnace first.

Just a thought but turn off the lights, start the furnace then turn on the lights and see if they flicker then. 

Seems like you have tried most everything, Good Luck.

Herman 

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LED flicker is usually caused by another appliance being on the same circuit, especially a furnace. It can also be caused by a dimmer switch being turned down too far (ie. low voltage ) Diodes at the flicker source have helped

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43 minutes ago, campcop said:

LED flicker is usually caused by another appliance being on the same circuit, especially a furnace. It can also be caused by a dimmer switch being turned down too far (ie. low voltage ) Diodes at the flicker source have helped

I thought of that too, but was still left with the issue of the fan motors slowing down so much the OP's CO alarm went off.

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Today, without the furnace/furnaces running, I started in back and started turning on all the dual LED lights. On no. 7 all started going dim. The 12v power has to be restricted/limited you would think.

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Good news is that you might have eliminated the furnace itself as the problem.

Are you able to trace the wiring to the LED lights? First step seems like it would be to check for a poor/loose connection somewhere. Since it could be something as simple as a crimp-on connector that was not installed properly it might be hard to find though.

Of course, did you pull out LED #7 to see if the light fixture has failed? If it is failing it could be the cause of the problem.

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On 3/11/2018 at 9:00 PM, Daneast1 said:

I’m using my class A 40 ft diesel to live in this winter in Colorado. What I just started experiencing after 6 mo. of living in coach is when both furnaces kick on the lights start flickering and furnace fan slows down considerable usually causing the O2 sensor to alarm. This is happens when plugged into 50 amp or 120 volt. Help!

What model and year coach do you have? 40 foot what, model year and model?

Rich.

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Rich.

It's a 2009 Coachman Cross Country, with a Attwood furnace...info on lower part of page 1, this thread.

Carl

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The gallery and lounge have fluorescent lights which I notice draw more voltage. But, with just the LED lights it doesn't matter what group of LED lights are on it. I noticed this morning where one of the furnaces WAS working now it won’t run but very slow and the co2 alarms. I checked lights again and now they began to dim with only 4 on where it was 7. Voltage from house batteries to coach is still showing 13.5. 

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Campcop, just saw your post. Since we are not living in it and just have it here at the cabin, I have everything turned off that is running on 12v. TV and microwave are the only two things running and they are 110v. Plugged into garage outlet. (110)

By the way, I disconnect the 110v and tried just the generator with a load, space heaters, frig, tv’s, to see if that might make a difference. No!                                              

Oh, I am hearing two different opinions . Does the converter do more than supply a “trickle charge” to the batteries or does it also supply power to appliances? I was told trickle charge only!

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Your 'trickle charger' will supply power to keep the batteries topped off. It will also be drawn on when you are running any 12v loads. If you are running a trickle charger and checking voltage while it's running, you're not getting a true picture of the battery's state of charge. Trickle chargers only put out a very little bit of current, probably not enough to run all the loads you're trying to run. If your batteries have failed and you've been trying to do this on the trickle charger, then it's not surprising that things are getting dimmed.

However, if your batteries are in good condition and/or you've tried to run the loads with a proper 12v converter running, then you've definitely got a component failing. Trouble is going to be finding out which one.

Do you have 12v fuses or breakers? If breakers, could be that this one is failing on you. Otherwise, you've got a connection, conductor, or component which is restricting current flow. This would be considered in my book as a potential fire and something that needs to be addressed before continuing to run the furnace (or anything else on the circuit.

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Richard, with battery disconnect turned off, I have pulled and checked each battery, chassis batteries are putting out 13.6v. They start gen and the engine no problem. Both 6v’s are showing 6.45 and in series are 13.30v. I’m just not sure about the converter. I can’t locate it to check in and out voltage! If it is used to supply additional power to components this very well may be my problem. Underneath the night stand by the bed is my 12v fuse panel on top (all 12v devices, f&r furnances, water pump, etc) and right below are the breaker’s (water htr, inverter/converter, a/c, washer/dryer, etc). All breakers/fuses are good. If I remove cover, I have one small board that has a green light that says good. No converter here.

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Not exactly what to recommend at this point. If it were my coach, I'd get out a spare 12v battery and use jumpers to test out each appliance, light, etc. one by one until I found the one that was not working properly. You have something that is causing either a current limit or a too-large load.

What's strange is that your batteries seem to test good, but the power going to the furnaces sure sounds like it's not at full voltage and/or current.

Are you sure that all the appropriate switches, disconnects, etc are in the proper position?

Your batteries are good - have you checked and double checked all the cables/clamps/ground connections? This includes the ground straps between the engine and the frame, the batteries and the frame, etc.

Even though the voltage shows ok on your meter, that doesn't mean that the connections are allowing full current flow at load. For example, if you have a water pipe with a restriction due to rust build-up, it will still make full water pressure (voltage) but it will never allow enough water to flow (current) to fill a bucket quickly. This is what it sounds like with your electrical system - you've got the voltage but are current limited.

Not sure where to suggest next.

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I used to own a 91 model crosscountry RT by sportscoach, almost sure that coachman bought out sportsman, the converter was under the dash of that unit, just to the right of the steering wheel. Probably not where yours is but another place to look. Were it my unit, I would buy a 75 amp three stage converter and add it to the unit, just a standard 3 prong plug in to 120 volts and placed near the house battery bank. It does not have to replace the present converter, can be in addition to the existing one. It sounds as though the original converter has developed a problem, and will not go into bulk mode. This is the reason that I was wondering earlier if you had unplugged completely from shore power and ran the tests. I have ordered the Powermax brand off of ebay and have good luck with this brand, they are much less expensive than buying from an RV dealer, and probably will solve the problem that you are describing. I am still pondering some of your test, have you looked for a fuse or circuit breaker immediately after the house batteries, it will be a 12 volt very heavy fuse or circuit breaker, if this has blown or thrown if a breaker, you will be seeing the same results, as the batteries are not supplying the necessary 12 volts and current that is needed, the system is only relying on the converter for power and is not large enough to keep up with demand of your system. It doesn't take more than an accidental arc or possibly putting in a battery backwards to blow these fuses. There was an incident about 6 months ago on this forum that turned out to be the case.

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Well, tech look at my issue today. He determined my problem was the converter, but after he and I looked throughout coach and unable to locate, we called the manuf who tells me this yr/model was last yr for this coachmen and was bought out by forest river therefore no layout drawings are available. So, he said there is a converter but unable to tell me the location. MY LUCK!

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Are you saying, that a Tech, is unable to trace the converter down, without a schematic?  Where did you find "this expert at"?  Local Auto shop!??

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As I stated earlier, add a converter, and when you find a more competent tech, have that person remove the faulty one. In a pinch, you can go for a smart battery charger that is high enough amperage to keep the house batteries up for the time being, only problem with this type of setup is the battery chargers are not a good clean dc current and you could possibly see some ripple effect in your lighting, especially florescent. Most important thing is to bring your house batteries back up and keep them there, or you will ruin them if this condition persist.

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i have a sportscoach elite and my battery’s are charged by the inverter if you turn it off at the remote on the wall it won’t charge the batteries 

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Thanks guys for your input.

The tech is an older gentleman and has been doing this all his life. He did suggest us adding a converter. He also suggested using a high amp charger until I can get a converter. If the coach manufacturer can’t tell me where they installed it then without a floor plan for this unit it has been difficult. We spent hrs looking in every compartment, inside and out! If the current magnum inverter was bigger, I would think it was a combined inverter/converter but its only 12”L x 5”W x 2”H. I do have all the manuals, but most of the Coachmen are generic listing a possibility of 3 different types of inverter. It does say the converter is a Parallax. 😒

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You'll need to look behind and underneath.

Your converter could be behind a false panel in a cabinet, in the space under a cabinet, or in some other space that you cannot see by opening cabinet doors and looking. Hopefully you can follow the wiring from where the charging wires enter your house batteries, although they may be connected through the back of your 12v fuse panel.

Behind your 12v fuse panel is another place to look. I don't know your coach in particular, but some were manufactured with the charger/converter mounted to the back side of the fuse panel, or even as a 'built-in' component of the power center. \

I think it's time to start opening a few things up to take a look. If you have a bore scope (the thing electricians and plumbers use to look inside walls) it will make this easier. Might be time for a new tool.

You can add a new converter/charger, but if your old one is left in place and is going bad it can still cause collateral damage down the road. Probably best to yank it out.

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Sometime you can here the transformer in the converter humming ( it hums caus it don’t know the words) if you can here it just follow the sound if you turn on all the lights sometimes the transformer will hum louder the greater the load is on it

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Richard is right some of them are built into the load center un screw it from the wall and take a look My llast Motorhome was a gulfstream and the connectors on the back of the fuse center would loosen up and cause all sorts of weird things to happen took a while to find that one

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As I said at the beginning of this thread.  I had a coach, that the converter was found, under the seat of the both dinette.  On another, it was under the sink, way back in the cabinet.

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