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Honda CR-V Can't Lock Doors While Towing

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Just bought a 2011 Honda CR-V to tow behind motorhome. The security system will not allow you to lock the doors with a key in the ignition. You must have a key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel. Is there any way to lock the doors while towing?

Thanks for any replies.

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Have you asked your dealer if it is possible (or even legal) to remove the locking pin from the steering wheel and the shift lever? I really don't know if it would work or not; idea just came to me when I read your post. Good luck. Let us know how you resolve this issue.

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I have a Toyota Corolla and like Bill suggested, I have to lock the door with a second key. I have to use one key to place the ignition in the accessory position and then the second key fob will not lock the doors remotely, but the door can be locked manually with the second key. Hope this helps.

Sam

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Guest Wayne77590

Can the fuse be pulled that actuates the door locks? Then check to see if it can be locked with the fuse pulled with a 2nd key. If left in the acc position, most vehicles have to have the Ign fuse pulled to keep the battery from draining.

Good luck.

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Check your user's manual. I seem to remember there were several options owners could program into the system. (Don't have my vehicle here at the moment, so can't check it) You may be able to program it to allow what you want.

GM

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As mentioned earlier, any second key should lock the car without issue.

I tow a '99 CRV and can not lock the car with a key in the ignition..not w/the key or the fob(?). When I stop for any extended time I pull the key & so-far I've remembered to re place it...It's gonna be an UGLY day if I have a senior moment and forget...expensive too.

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I do not have a CRV but I do have a Honda Accord. One trick I learned to leave the vehicle running and lock the doors is to reach in from the back door and push down the manual lock button(not the power lock button) on the driver's door from the inside. The Accord's driver lock activates all the doors. Then I just close the rear door and they are all locked with key in and running. I use my spare to unlock the drivers door. Not sure this will help but it might be worth a try.

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I do not have a CRV but I do have a Honda Accord. One trick I learned to leave the vehicle running and lock the doors is to reach in from the back door and push down the manual lock button(not the power lock button) on the driver's door from the inside. The Accord's driver lock activates all the doors. Then I just close the rear door and they are all locked with key in and running. I use my spare to unlock the drivers door. Not sure this will help but it might be worth a try.

What year of Accord do you tow? I have a1994 with and manual tranny that I want to tow. Just curious.

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I have a 2010 CRV and I lock it manually with a 2nd key from outside. As far as the fuse goes that someone mentioned...I tried removing that and of course it is the smallest and the furthest away from the panel....but once that is removed the 12 volt plug does not work and you have no power for the brake buddy. I end up with a dead battery after 2 long days of driving. Still trying to resolve a trickle charging to the tow battery as I now leave the fuse in place.....I have a 7 to 6 plug and thought that would keep the battery charged....

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Still trying to resolve a trickle charging to the tow battery as I now leave the fuse in place.....I have a 7 to 6 plug and thought that would keep the battery charged....

Yes, that should leave you plenty of wires to set up a toad battery trickle charger from your coach charging system.

To do it properly, you will need, on the coach end: Handy source of fused 12 VDC-- engine battery is a good source. The fuse should be right at the positive terminal. Than large gauge wire (for less voltage drop) should go to the "always not" side of a simple relay (Under $10 at auto parts houses). A 40 amp would be plenty. Use any "hot when ignition on" wire to activate the relay. That way the charge line is only hot when you are driving. Continue with large gauge wire from the relay "out side" to the coach end of the toad plug.

On the toad, use large gauge wire from toad-end wiring loom to the battery positive post WITH ANOTHER FUSE AT THIS POST AS WELL. This second fuse is important, since both batteries are hot and could have a short were the wire to ever touch ground.

The ground path needs to be a robust as the hot. Best coach chassis battery to toad battery if you have the wires in the plug to do it.

Doing it yourself your parts costs should be under $25 to do it the right way.

Brett

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I believe that you can use a 2nd key and manually lock the door.

Exactly right. I leave the grey valet key in the ignition while towing since I may need other keys on that ring. You cannot lock the doors with the remote, but you can use the regular key to lock up "the old-fashioned way."

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We have a 2011 Honda FIT that we dinghy tow. We obtained a special key (cannot be used as an ignition key) from our dealer that allows us to manually lock the FIT when the regular key is in the ignition.

We leave the fuse in the FIT installed and have a "Battery Maintainer" that we purchased from brake buddy. You should have or be able to provide 12V at your 7 pin plug on the coach. The battery maintainer is connected to the corresponding 12V on the 6 pin plug on the toad and to the positive terminal of the 12V battery on the toad. This keeps the toad battery charged while towing and allows 12V to be available to your brake system as well.

jdmosk

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Exactly right. I leave the grey valet key in the ignition while towing since I may need other keys on that ring. You cannot lock the doors with the remote, but you can use the regular key to lock up "the old-fashioned way."

The same way we do it with our 2007 Honda CRV. Pretty simple actually.

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Just bought a 2011 Honda CR-V to tow behind motorhome. The security system will not allow you to lock the doors with a key in the ignition. You must have a key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel. Is there any way to lock the doors while towing?

Thanks for any replies.

Yes I tow the same vehicle. Use your valet or spare key for the ignition, Lock all but the drivers door with your electric door button then when you close the drivers door and lock it with your regular ignition key. Hope this helps

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Yes, that should leave you plenty of wires to set up a toad battery trickle charger from your coach charging system.

To do it properly, you will need, on the coach end: Handy source of fused 12 VDC-- engine battery is a good source. The fuse should be right at the positive terminal. Than large gauge wire (for less voltage drop) should go to the "always not" side of a simple relay (Under $10 at auto parts houses). A 40 amp would be plenty. Use any "hot when ignition on" wire to activate the relay. That way the charge line is only hot when you are driving. Continue with large gauge wire from the relay "out side" to the coach end of the toad plug.

On the toad, use large gauge wire from toad-end wiring loom to the battery positive post WITH ANOTHER FUSE AT THIS POST AS WELL. This second fuse is important, since both batteries are hot and could have a short were the wire to ever touch ground.

The ground path needs to be a robust as the hot. Best coach chassis battery to toad battery if you have the wires in the plug to do it.

Doing it yourself your parts costs should be under $25 to do it the right way.

Brett

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Yes, that should leave you plenty of wires to set up a toad battery trickle charger from your coach charging system.

To do it properly, you will need, on the coach end: Handy source of fused 12 VDC-- engine battery is a good source. The fuse should be right at the positive terminal. Than large gauge wire (for less voltage drop) should go to the "always not" side of a simple relay (Under $10 at auto parts houses). A 40 amp would be plenty. Use any "hot when ignition on" wire to activate the relay. That way the charge line is only hot when you are driving. Continue with large gauge wire from the relay "out side" to the coach end of the toad plug.

On the toad, use large gauge wire from toad-end wiring loom to the battery positive post WITH ANOTHER FUSE AT THIS POST AS WELL. This second fuse is important, since both batteries are hot and could have a short were the wire to ever touch ground.

The ground path needs to be a robust as the hot. Best coach chassis battery to toad battery if you have the wires in the plug to do it.

Doing it yourself your parts costs should be under $25 to do it the right way.

Brett

Brett

Thanks for this information. I have copied it and will take to my repair center this week as we will be addressing this during my service. Sounds simple enough, but I am not versed in doing the wiring myself. Thanks again. Will let you know how I make out!..

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On my 2011 Honda CRV I turn the key to auxiliary after following the Honda transmission shifting process in their manual. I then open the drivers side rear door and hit the lock button on the drivers side. This locks all the doors including the drivers rear when it is closed. Make sure you have a spare key to get back in. You can not use the remote to unlock the doors with the key in the ignition. You have to use the manual lock with a key on the drivers door to get back in. I don't pull the fuse. I installed a hot wire from the 7 point hitch on my 40x to the battery on the CRV. This keeps it charged. Make sure you install a fuse at the battery.

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