huffypuff Report post Posted January 13, 2014 We left Seven Feathers RV park and I thought we get home today with no more problems. Well we stopped for lunch at a rest area in Washington and went to use the electric can opener and no electricity. Found the ground fault tripped in the bathroom with nothing plugged in of any of the outlets. I found one outlet damp in the basement. It seems like the cord access in the bottom of the cargo area has seeped some road spray since it's raining and maybe that is shorted. I haven't the time to check it so so open the cans manually so we can nuke lunch and be on our way. We get about 100 miles from home and I notice water beads running on the inside or the windshield. Oh great I thought even a new windshield that we had put in after our Alaskan trip last summer didn't hold up. When we reach the last rest stop to dump our tanks I took the flashlight and verified that it water is coming in between the rubber and the glass. Hopefully that repair will be covered by the installer of the windshield. We are home now and I'm sure glad this vacation is over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 13, 2014 Huffy, great stories. We've all suffered similar trips; hopefully, they become fewer and further apart as we accumulate experience and intuition. I'm becoming a great fan of dash cams, was shown an ad for a new Garmin model the other day. They "ain't just for Russians" anymore!! Again, sharing our misadventures helps arm the group as a whole, maybe helps someone who's one day in the same barrel. I recommend a dash cam not a go pro because of the data on dash cam. GPS mapping, speed, shock sensor to name a few. The police have a way to get their data also. Someone rear ended my step daughter while she was driving on the interstate. The police person took a reading from data link of my stepdaughters car and the driver who rear ended her. He found that she was going 57 mph near the speed limit and the other guy going 85 MPH. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted January 13, 2014 Ray, Hope the Glass Shop is close to home! The windshield on our coach needs to be removed and replaced about every 3 to 4 years because the seal(s) creep away from the front cowling. They have dried out some over the years so I now have a complete set to install the next time. Regarding your wet electrical box, is it inside the pod / storage area or external and in the weather elements? Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 13, 2014 I hope to set up a windshield reseal as I wait. The glass shop is 30 minutes away. The electrical outlet is inside the storage area but has a flip up access for a cord as well as cable for tv. Somehow the back wall and that outlet is damp and I have to blame the flip up access but have to verified by unloading some stuff. I hope that is the only problem with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted January 14, 2014 Ray, Good the glass shop is real close! Kind of wondering if there is a cover or some other type of seal on the outside of the area where the box passes through the storage area wall that has been compromised in some way. Water entering an electrical box is never good. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 14, 2014 I sprayed all outside electrical outlets with Sea Foam Deep Creep. Includes front right side compartment tv/bbq, left side ice maker, refrigerator AC heating element and vacuum cleaner. Problem solved! Rich, there are a couple possible areas of concern. There is a round flip access hatch on the floor in the compartment that flips up for cords to go through and a U shaped slide for the cord so the larger round part can be put down. I have another one of those in the plumbing compartment for the water hose. Otherwise I have screw down caps for the 50 amp shore line and sewage dump hose. The screw type are not the problem but the flip up one are if you are traveling and get caught in a storm. They have either flipped up or u shape slid back and need to be replaced with better design. This look a little better than what I have but not by much. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/electrical-cable-hatch-white/66682 I talked to the glass shop today and have an appointment for Friday 9 am to reseal the windshield. The windshield pops into rubber and it is there that it leaks at upper right corner. The glass shop says that the windshield settles or slides down when first driven for such a big one piece assembly. Resealing the top should take care of it and I'm able to wait for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted January 14, 2014 Ray, I have the same setup regarding the covers for the shore power cable and water. The sewer line runs through a larger opening with a threaded cover, that one has never let water in while on the road. Running in sum very heavy rain about 2 years ago. Water did intrude that area via the power and water openings, but no problem with wet AC electrical box in the same bay. The outlet is a good 18 to 24 plus inches above that particular opening on our coach. Your windshield issue is very similar to ours, the seal creeps away from the corners as the glass shifts. The glass shop now adds some extra sealant in those trouble areas and that does help. Think if I took the coach to the body shop and had the fiberglass opening closed down just a little, that would fix the problem. The glass is tough to get in place with the size of the opening now, so the glass shop is concerned that reducing the opening further would make installation even tougher. The front cowling is ridged, but still flexes some. We are concerned that making the sealed area to tight could add extra stress on the glass and the fiberglass and would cause extra stress on both. Causing ether the fiberglass or the windshield to fracture or eat the rubber seals. Kind of a catch 22. LOL. An area of 8.5 ft. by10 ft. in under a good size load form many angles. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 14, 2014 The access hatch on mine is loose and the bottom is wide open with no protection of water getting in. That outlet is about the same height as yours but has no weather cover that I would like to look in to. Time to replace them with better design. The seal is much as you said the windshield shifted but at least the seal didn't come loose from the fiberglass. Not a bad leak as it just ran a bead of water inside the windshield only when driving in heavy rain. I had no problem with it before the windshield replacement and insurance paid for it. Now if I have to replace the rubber seal down the road I guess that expense will be on me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 19, 2014 I took to glass shop for the windshield to be resealed on Friday. I pointed out the streak mark on the inside and where it came from but the mechanic couldn't find out why it leaked. He resealed across the top of the area of the leak so I have to hope for the best. I ordered 2 access hatches from etrailer for less than $10 each that looks a little better designed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 24, 2014 I got the two access hatches yesterday and I can't believe the difference with old and new being the same part number. Seems like whoever installed these cut out the bottom almost two inches to make inserting hoses and cords easier. Also they did't use any type of seal on the flange. Well I will be installing the new ones with butyl tape seal around the flange and leaving the bottom intact. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 25, 2014 If you have not watched the move RV with Robin Williams, do. Then you might consider writing a screen play based on your misadventures, Perhaps they are ready for the sequel. I looked it up on Netflix and it's not up for streaming so out of luck unless rental which I don't do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted February 23, 2014 I took the coach to Camping World yesterday and returned to me today. They had ordered and replace the front jack under XtraRide service contract. $200.00 deductible + freight + shop supplies = $350.00 my cost. Total bill was nearly $1,700.00 so I saved by having a contract. XtraRide told service writer for me to send copy of receipt of emergency service in Alabama and they may reimburse me for it. If not I can send it to Good Sam Road side assistance. That bill was only $170.00 but it won't hurt to try. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted November 29, 2016 I'm bringing this thread back to life as we are going on a 2 plus/minus months holiday vacation again. The start of the misadventure so far is our toad was rear ended on Thanksgiving day. So I had to get an estimate and put the bumper back together before leaving December 1st. Wouldn't you know it, as soon as I got it back together an insurance adjuster wants to look at it? We both went to the emergency room and had x-rays and cat scan. Me for middle back, DW neck. We are both alright but I was basically told I was getting old. Had the coach service at Valley Freightliner and passed all the checks with flying colors. Even had the air dryer filter changed and real happy there are no problems. WRONG I got a call from DW that the refrigerator won't turn on. Yep, you guessed it, the recalled box failed and won't reset I bypassed it and not going to hook that pain in the rear again. I'm running it on propane only as the electric elements are the problem blowing a hole in the cooling unit. Then it would switch to propane and catch fire if controls are on automatic. So much for a safety box when all needed is understanding why and not use the electric elements. The propane is cheaper to use now days anyway. Bad start, I don't know but at least I got a handle on it. Now to reinstall tire pressure monitor and FMCA goose egg. East coast or bust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted November 29, 2016 Ray, sorry to hear about the start of this trip. Glad you both are ok. East Coast trip?? I hope its the southern part of the East Coast. While today and tomorrow are decent we are supposed to get a lot of rain and I'm sure it will get cold again just after, yesterday I left for work it was 26. What is your long term fix for the refrigerator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted November 29, 2016 Ray, I know you have already looked into it but do think long and hard on going to a residential unit. We installed a Samsung RF-18. Couldn't be happier. Hope you and the DW are feeling ok. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted November 29, 2016 Ray, If keeping the absorption refrigerator, strongly consider adding an ARC controller: https://www.arprv.com/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 29, 2016 Glad to see you on the road again. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 29, 2016 Ray, Sorry to hear about fridge. I have peace of mind after having an automatic fire extinguisher installed in the refrigerator compartment.. Happy to hear that you both can get on the road again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted November 30, 2016 Don't make sense to convert to a residential fridge as I don't know if this will be the last trip allow by DW. I don't know if the ARC safety control is more reliable than the factory recall box. I like the idea that it resets itself. I saw it at FMCA Western area at Indio, CA. Maybe better than nothing but we are leaving Thursday. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted November 30, 2016 The ARC control MUCH more closely controls boiler temperature. The recall does nothing to control boiler temperature-- just puts it into "time out" under some conditions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted November 30, 2016 (edited) 27 minutes ago, wolfe10 said: The ARC control MUCH more closely controls boiler temperature. The recall does nothing to control boiler temperature-- just puts it into "time out" under some conditions. Seem to me it worked by turning the control board on and off that would seem to be "time out" then on again. I need to look at it further on their website. Update: I went to their website and it claims that the recall box must stay in place. That conflicts with their claim that it is safer. I try to call the local rv dealers and see if any have the recall box. Edited November 30, 2016 by huffypuff More infromation Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted November 30, 2016 ARC's closer control of boiler temperature to keep boiler temperature from going too high IS safer. Think of the factory recall box as a "fail safe" not a controller. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abyrd Report post Posted November 30, 2016 Ray, I had 5 of the recalls installed by four different authorizes repair facilities in Wa state. I finally gave up and installed the same Samsung that was mentioned in previous response. All repair facilities have told me that the recall parts are not stocked and only sent to shops upon determining that they have failed. I have the same issues with my DW's health, have a safe trip. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted November 30, 2016 Brett Looks like I have to get the recall box as for legal one is not going to be responsible for the other. I for one don't like to have a box in the circuit that has to be reset by magnet every time the weather change. I will see if I can get an ARC one shipped to an N.C. address we are visiting. Update: Looks like the controller will be shipped to NC so I can install it there. I'm not going to reinstall the recall box as they can be a pain in the butt even if it's working.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted November 30, 2016 We leave for this holiday tour on Thursday, Dec 1st. 1st stop Tacoma, WA for 2 nights till the 3rd 2nd stop either Seven Feathers in Oregon or Redding, CA if the passes are clear. Hopefully 1 night. til 4th 3rd stop Travis AFB near SF, CA 3 nights til the 7th 4th stop Riverside, CA 2 nights til the 9th 5th stop San Tan Valley, AZ 2 nights til the 11th 6th stop Fort Bliss, TX 2 nights til the 13th 7th stop Dallas/Arlington, TX area 3 nights til the 16th 8th stop Millington, TN 1 night til the 17th 9th stop Charlotte Motor Speedway about 2 weeks til January 3rd After Christmas, I'm going to hop in the car and visit MD, DE, and PA After this stop, it will be on to Key West, FL and to visit friends a little north burning another two weeks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
