Jump to content
geraldlanc

Dash Air Conditioner Recharge

Recommended Posts

The dash air in my 2002 Beaver motorhome is not as cool as it should be. I guess that over the winter the "freon" leaked out. Assuming that the system is in good order, is it possible to recharge the system myself? I have never done that before on a car or anything else.

Gerald

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gerald,

Well is not impossible, might be good to get a person you know that has charged there system to guide you through the process. The high and low pressure side valves are not the same size and one needs to know the difference.

Buying the lowest priced filler / charging connection system can get one in trouble. They are not the most accurate reading gauges and over charging a system can get expensive.

There are some subtle items one needs to take into account. The larger systems often need to be shut down during the charging process to allow the system to equalize 2 or 3 times to get a good charge in the systems.

Knowing the low side pressure switch pressure point, that turns the system off and on is the key one. The high side pressure reading is only readable with professional type charging manifold systems.

The other item you would not be able to do if needed, is to run a vacuum and pressure test on the system.

Placing a thermometer into one of the AC outlets, with the system running at max cool and a temp reading of 55 to 60 degrees would be expected with an outside temperature of around 75 degrees.

Not knowing what the system cycle time and discharge temperature are currently reading. I would NOT add more then 1 can watching for a temperature change, max. of 2 cans of freon to the system. If no cooling change is noticeable or measured ! Stop.

Get some help.

A shop that charges them, can go allot further instinctively.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While charging an ac system is not complicated it can be dangerous or costly if not done properly.Some things to check are.

1 does the compressor clutch kick in when turning air on and off ?

2 do the fans on the condenser run,may take awhile before they do ?

3 look for oily spots on lines and by compressor pulley,indication of leak as oil travels with freon

If all the above are OK and you try to add, feel lines where they enter and leave the dash unit and charge slowly till the temperature

is equal. Be careful and wear goggles and gloves.

Good luck

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good morning, all;

One other point to be considered is to have your older system that may still have in it the old Freon Type R-12 or Type R-22 serviced withing the next year or so. I seem to remember something about 2015 will be the last year that R-12 and R-22 can be sold or used in this country even by certified A/C technicians. I need to check on this to confirm it. That is 20 years from the time when the OEM phase-out in the USA of R-12 air conditioners took place.

Yes, having someone put reclaimed or old stock R-12 or R-22 into your system is expensive at this time (I remember buying 14 ounce cans of R-12 for $0.70 and a 30 pound cylinder for $17.00), but it will be even more expensive to have your older system converted to the new R-134a refrigerant, plus the new oil that is compatible with R-134a and must be used with it. If you can find an A/C tech who has it, the R-420a or possibly the R-414b would be a better substitute than R-134a without requiring all the changes that are necessary with the conversion to R-134a. R-409a is another possibility. And you will not experience the reduced performance level that you get with the R-134a in a system designed for R-12. Check with a certified and experienced A/C technician to see what is available at this time and will work best with your system. There are other things that are compatible with R-12 and R-22 and do not require all the changes that the conversion to R-134a will need.

Enjoy;

Ralph

Latte Land, Washington

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your freon is leaking you have an additional problem that needs to be addressed. If the system was all right you would still have the gas! Let someone find the leak, fix it and charge it properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your system was never charged and maybe very slow leak it's best when recharging to add uv dye to it. That way if it's low next year you can find it with uv light and special goggles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your freon is leaking you have an additional problem that needs to be addressed. If the system was all right you would still have the gas! Let someone find the leak, fix it and charge it properly.

Bill is correct. You need to find the leak first and the professionals have the equppment to do that. If the gas is still present in the system and pressures are correct, I would suspect the expansion valve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The dash air in my 2002 Beaver motorhome is not as cool as it should be. I guess that over the winter the "freon" leaked out. Assuming that the system is in good order, is it possible to recharge the system myself? I have never done that before on a car or anything else.Gerald

I assume it is a diesel pusher with the gauge ports at the front. It uses R134 refrigerant which can easily be added. Get a couple of cans and a hose with the gauge attached at any auto parts store. Get the cheapest R134 available as it is all the same. Do NOT get it with leak sealer. Sams Club has it the cheapest, a case of 12 for around $50. Follow the directions & put a can in, use a thermometer in the center vent & see if there is an improvement. Upright can puts vapor in-OK to run compressor. Not upright can puts liquid in-DO NOT run compressor; with the engine off it is OK to turn the can upside down & put it in. A can is 12 oz & there are 16 oz in a pound. You should call Beaver & see what the capacity is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While I agree that adding R134A is not rocket science, one should have a gauge set (low side and high side) and the knowhow to use them. Systems can suffer from overcharging as much as undercharging.

Said another way, adding freon is not always the answer to poor dash A/C performance. Things like condenser fans, their relays and fuses are at least as common a cause of poor performance.

If you are not familiar with working with automotive A/C systems and their pressures (over 250 PSI at higher ambient temperatures), leave it to a professional.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,  guys I have a 2003 Beaver Patriot  I have filled many a/c units .  But can anyone tell me were the low pressure port is on this model?

I have look at all lines in engine compartment near compressor. Would it be up front of RV under chassis?  

Thanks Dave

ohio
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave, on mine you have to slide the generator out, they are above it near the dash blower motor at about 11:00. I believe in 03 both of our coaches were made by the same company. Could be slightly similar. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...