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Leveling Jacks On Sprinter Chassis

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I own the Sprinter Citation from Thor and recently had HWH jacks installed. These are completely bolt on, I believe any drilling of the Sprinter frame is what would void the warranty. I'm very happy with the result and even with the short wheel base of the Sprinter, the added stability is wonderful. I lost no room in any of my outside storage boxes, everything was mounted under the coach.

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I believe 2x4's are too small for most tires. If you are putting blocks under wheels they should support the entire footprint of the tire. I block our coach for winter storage and use 2" x 12" for our tire size 295/80R22.5. I believe that even ordinary auto tires require at least a 2x6 board to support the full width of the tire footprint.

That said:

I would seriously consider Erniee's suggestion. The install if done should be per instructions from the manufacturer. They know the design strength of the frame and where lifting the vehicle will not cause damage and may have serious limits on how much weight may be lifted off the wheels at a given spot on the frame. The decision of where to place jacks is an engineering decision, not just a "this ought to work" decision from someone who does not have specific engineering statistics on the bending resistance of the metal frame, frame dimensions and load distribution on any spot on the frame. Those are reasons that the manufacturer may not authorize using add-on jacks. If the manufacturer doesn't authorize the modification you are out of warranty and any damage/repairs will be at your expense.

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Should you decide on the Sprinter by Mercedes, consider looking at the Ocean One by Advanced RV out of Willoughby, OH. They recently have added a new type of Air suspension called VB-Airsuspension which should answer your question regarding jacks. VB-Airsuspension North America is a state-of-the-art rear suspension system designed by VB-Airsuspension a Dutch company for Sprinter vans, in cooperation with Mercedes-Benz. The new air suspension system provides a smoother, more stable ride and increased safety compared with the Sprinter stock suspension. VB-Airsuspension has installed it on more than 10,000 Sprinter vans in Europe and is covered by Sprinter warranty through their dealer network in the United States. VB-FullAir is a fully automatic, electronically-controlled air suspension system. It completely replaces the factory Sprinter rear suspension including leaf springs, anti-sway, chassis-axle alignment, and shock absorbers. Electronic control and included compressor–along with height sensors mounted behind the chassis and axle– maintains the same ride height regardless of load. And, it auto-levels the rear of the motor home up to about 6″ differential when parked. Plus, the system can manually raise the chassis for additional ground clearance (3″, restricted to low-speed vehicle operation) and lower the rear of the motor home about 3″ for easier loading. The suspension system is available as an upgrade for Advanced RV motor home owners and an option for new clients of theirs.

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LTV offers stabilizer jacks (2 only) - HWH also will retrofit levelers although I have read Mercedes does not approve of any alterations to the chassis as it will void the waranty

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I have the Sprinter and I bought 4 scissor jacks, (am still trying to find out who/what LTV or HWH is and what they offer). I have not installed them at this time, glad to find out about Mercedes Benz policy concerning frame modification voiding warranty. Trying to figure out a "clamp on" configuration (welding ground clamps?). According to my wife the Sprinter really needs stabilization and the ~$5,500 stabilization package with torsion bars and bags may be the solution in the long run but $300 worth of scissor jacks is my solution for now.

I am searching for forged clamps to attach them so I can get on the road. Frustrated with the plastic shims, they work and it is a good system but clean up and valuable storage space is my issue. Scissors jacks, for now store in valuable locker space, I will drag them out one at a time as needed. Will travel with coveralls and knee pads and determine the best frame locations/orientation for the jacks on a trial and error basis.


Issues with propane have kept me at home for the last 8 months "in-and-out" at dealership, trial runs with failure etc. Cannot keep the Onan running for more than 10 hours.


Definitely plan on being on the road this winter. So far my planned upgrades at Advanced RV is looking to top $14,000, Will start that process next spring.

Winnebego Itasca Reyo 25P 2015 (Chassis 2014)

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A google search indicates that the Sprinter chassis is a unibody design, meaning that there is not a traditional rail frame under it. I think that is why Mercedes want allow any modifications to it. Like Tom said, Erniee's solution of placing something under the tires to help level the unit makes sense for a cheaper alternative to leveling jacks.

I went to Tractor Supply and bought a large stall mat, made from recycled tires, then cut this into several smaller mats, the material is about 3/4 inches thick, and can be stacked several high under all tires that need height compensated. Of course the system that JMGOLDEN suggested in the long run probably is a very good solution.

Incidentally, I always place at least one of the mats that I described under every tire on the coach, when parked for any length stay, regardless of what the material under the tires is made of, concrete and most gravel is alkaline and has a harsh effect on the rubber in tires, asphalt is petroleum based and has a harsh effect on tires, and bare earth has minerals as well as an insect carrier up to the coach.

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In the 70's, when I had a 24' and 26' Class A.  I carried 4, 3 foot long 2" x 8" boards and used what I needed to level coach, mostly one or two, the other 2 became stops to prevent coach from moving forward/backward.  Worked great!

Carl

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I am familiar with that chassis, and I can see why they do not want jacks on it. The rear "frame rails" are boxed sheet metal, to much load in one spot could do a real number to the chassis. If the manufacture doesn't recommend it I wouldn't think of it.

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