Basement Compartment And Heat

[dbdreamers]

We are moving ahead to go full time next Fall. We are in the market for a gently used Dutch (or Northern) Star.

But, wondering what the deal is on heating for the basement compartments.

Are any/some/all of them heated? Is it controllable?

Etc. Any other issues I need to know about concerning cold weather?

Also, what would you think about a 9 year old DS that has not been used in the last couple of years? Any deal breakers?

Or, should I just budget/negotiate several thousands for probable updates and repairs.

Thanks to all!

Dave & Becky

[huffypuff]

You want a 12 volt heater in the plumbing compartment so if you get into cold area you won't end up with frozen pipes. Most coaches comes with it in the last 10 years.

[hermanmullins]

Dave,

The things I would be sure and check would be the tires for both age and cracking and any thing Rubber. Hoses and belts seem to age much faster when not used then when used. Tires between 5 and 7 years would be suspect. Do a complete PM and have the transmission serviced. I would budget about double what you think. Then you will come in ok.

Good luck,

Herman

[tbutler]

We have several heated basement compartments and others that are not heated. Our coach has "system heat." That is the label on the switch. This was an option on our coach. It has an on/off switch that we have to activate manually. There are temperature controls on individual elements that engage when the temperature is near freezing. Our freshwater tank has a heat pad under it which keeps that tank from freezing. In the sewer compartment there is a small electric heater which keeps the waste tanks and the plumbing there from freezing. Both are on the system heat switch and are only operating if we switch them on. They are 110V AC and we must have the generator running or be plugged in to use them. Any heating element uses a huge amount of energy. I would be surprised if a battery system were able to operate overnight without additional electrical input.

Besides these, the other compartment which has many of the water pipes, water filters and the water pump also contains the inverter and the hot water heater. Between those two devices the temperature in that compartment should always be above freezing. Plumbing outside those compartments is entirely within the living compartment. We've never tested this system in hard cold freezing weather but it functions well in the mid 20's for overnight lows. Our hot air furnace has duct work in the floor but it doesn't open to the basement. It would keep the ceiling of the basement warm and should help keep all compartments above freezing in mildly cold weather. We also have thermal windows in all but the windshield.

If you are full timing properly you shouldn't have to worry often about cold weather unless you are a ski or ice fishing enthusiast. Most of us are motivated to full timing so we can travel and avoid shoveling snow, raking leaves and mowing grass. When it gets cold we head south. We've had a few family situations that tested us but as soon as those obligations were fulfilled we were on the road.

How your coach handles hot weather could be a bigger concern though there is a remedy for that, keep those tires turning until it gets cooler! Keeping the coach cool requires good insulation, two or three air conditioners on most large coaches, sun screens for the windshield and cockpit windows and awnings on as many of the remaining windows as are possible. If you enjoy fresh air, you'll want windows with screens and a screen door to allow plenty of air circulation when the outdoor weather permits. Powered roof vents can help circulate air when necessary for moisture or odor control. If they are covered so they can be used in rainy weather that will be handy.

As far as deal breakers, it depends on your expectations. A coach that is 9 years old and is lightly used may have problems with aging of systems that have been left unused for extended periods of time. How many miles is lightly used? My definition would be 5 to 6000 miles per year or somewhere in the range of 50,000 miles. The generator should have at least 300 hours on it if it has been run regularly. Sitting can be as damaging for a coach as being driven. If not stored indoors, it likely has seen very hot temperatures and cold temperatures inside. Condensation in cold weather and heat damage in hot temperatures will take a toll on fabrics, plastics and metals. Electrical connections will corrode and everything is well out of warranty. Be prepared to deal with a succession of problems, small and large. As a full timer you should be able to cope with these problems better than those who travel on vacation. You can adjust your schedule to get work done when necessary. Finding a repair place can be a challenge as you won't have a home dealer nearby to take care of all your problems. You will be depending on the kindness of strangers!

We started with a 7 year old coach with 50,000 miles and learned many of the things above through experience. It wasn't a disaster, we lived in it for two and a half years before trading it for a new coach. Having started with a used coach really made us appreciate the "improvements" in the newer coach. It also gave us a chance to experience the full time lifestyle and determine if we were in it for the long haul. After two and a half years, we were hooked. We now have a home where we wintered for many years and are traveling to cooler climates each summer. Louise likes to say, "Life is a banquet and most people are starving." That is a quote from one of her favorite movies but it describes the difference between living in a fixed home all your life or traveling full time.

Herman has already given you good advice on tires and general maintenance items to inspect and/or replace. The older coach will cost you more than you expect for upkeep. Be prepared and you won't be disappointed.

[dbdreamers]

Thanks so much guys. I appreciate the time you took to answer.

My knowledge base is continually growing.

Dave C

[campcop]

On our coach the basement is heated via the furnaces but a lot of times we don't like to run them all night, in those instances, we have a small electric heater I leave in the wet bay....never had a problem

[alltooledup]

This topic is kind of where I am right now. We just bought a 20007 Damon Astoria with 10,400 miles and 175 hrs on the genset. I did not get any mintenantce records so I went with the full 15,000 mile mtintenance. I had all the engine oil, air, fuel, transmission spin on cartridges replaced and new Rotella T5 synblend oil. The Allison tranny uses synthetic oil Transynd. I also had the Genset oil, air, fuel filters and oil changed. The gen is a diesel so we used the same Rotella T5 oil. I also had the chassis greased and the same as a DOT inspection which our state does not require for a Motor home.

So while our coach is seven years old the hoses and belts were good. I had them take the drain plug from the fuel tank and check that there was no water or algae in the bottom of the tank. All systems checked out good so I am happy that no major problem were present. Now I know where the maintenance is at on the coach. Allison wants the transmission spin on changed at 5,000 to remove manufacturing debris now it will require no filter changes until rebuild. It should outlive me as should the engine:-)

As Herman said guess and double the number. One filter was $200 not sure which it was but we did have the air brake cartridge replaced which might be the pricey one or the Allison but it came out at $1011, with me providing the engine oil.The oil was $12.99 a gallon and it took about 5 gallons. So it was indeed double what I expected but the price of peace of mind and safety for the air brake systems and chassis made cheaping out not worth while for me. I originally tried a Freightliner Oasis shop that is supposed to cater to motor homes but when I told him what I wanted he never called me back. We went with an independent servicer Carl's Truck and Trailer and I am confident they did a quality job.

Our coaches tires were age cracked on the rear and the front had been replaced. Part of our deal was for new rear tires which we were told was a $2,000 value. They are Michelin and they don't come cheap

Dbdreamers they had a DutchStar with 5,000 mile on it at TotalValuerv.com tell Dave Olson that Dennis sent you:-) .

So now we just need to learn where to go to find the nice weather.:-)

[alltooledup]

I also am concerned about the cold weather and freeze protection. Our 2007 Damon Astoria that we just purchased utilizes the propane furnace to supply heat to the tanks and plumbing in the storage areas. I was looking at supplemental tank heaters and was shocked at their amperage draw for the 12 volt ones as TButler guessed they would drain the batteries in a short time. So I have been looking at supplemental heaters and found a Honeywell Heatbud that draws 170-250 watts and a Thermo Cube which is a plug adaptor thermostat with 35 degree on and 45 degree off. Have not tried this setup and am kind of apprehensive as the heater has lots of disclaimers for distance to combustible material.

Just figuring this for if and when we get caught in a cold snap. We were at Custer State Park in SD and got caught in a once in 100 years cold snap with snow this past October. Then the power failed and our propane was gone:-) So while it ai'nt really camping it can be kind of like roughing it.:-)

Interested to hear what others are using to fight freezing tanks and plumbing. Thanks Dennis

[smokeater75]

I think that anytime the temperature stays below freezing for more than 24hrs you need to be careful. I can tell you from experience here in Winnipeg, that the -50 rv anti-freeze becomes a slurpy at -35 but true to form it doesn't freeze solid and won't burst your pipes. Good luck ,smokeater75.

[five]

We have an Aqua Hot system. If you have one of those all you have to do is have the electric switch on and the basement heat is automatically activated when the temp goes below 40. I assume it will do the same thing if the ''burner'' is turned on.

[wildebill308]

We are moving ahead to go full time next Fall. We are in the market for a gently used Dutch (or Northern) Star.

But, wondering what the deal is on heating for the basement compartments.

Are any/some/all of them heated? Is it controllable?

Etc. Any other issues I need to know about concerning cold weather?

Also, what would you think about a 9 year old DS that has not been used in the last couple of years? Any deal breakers?

Or, should I just budget/negotiate several thousands for probable updates and repairs.

Thanks to all!

Dave & Becky

I don't thing you will have a problem. I would have someone qualified check it out before you buy it. Like others have said check the dates on the tires you can find the date on the sidewall it will start wit DOT the last 4 numbers will give you the week and last two numbers of the year 4110 is 41st week of 2010. I will bet you won't get any maintenance records so I would do a complete annual maintenance to start with to give you a base. That is what I did with my coach.

When I am on the road and if it is that cold I run the furnaces to heat the basement. When I am parked and staying in the coach the furnace protects the basement are. When in storage I have a ceramic cube heater that heats the whet area and two electric heaters to keep the interior from freezing. I don't winterize it so I keep heat in it. We don't have long cold spells hear in Texas. But tonight will be in the mid 20s I am glad I have the heat on.

Bill