Incandescent to LED Bulb Replacement

[lwpavao]

Anyone out there have a 2005 MY RV with 1156 and 3157 bulbs (Back-Up and Turn/Brake) that they have converted to LED?  Just curious, while I work in the lighting field I've never used any of-shore based LED exterior replacement lamps.  Most of the issues are due to reflective light which was designed for the incandescent lamps with reflectors so the drop-in LED bulbs can look "spot-ish" and while they are brighter then may not distribute enough light to be conspicuous.  The other question is if anyone has tried them (2005 MY +/-) have you had to install a resistor load  to eliminate hyper flashing?  With the low cost of the drop-in LED bulbs being a huge alternator benefit, it's looking like a good option.  I have replaced several on interior functions, but their not so critical and don't have anything to do with FMVSS guidelines. Any feedback is appreciated.

[dickandlois]

Leo, I have changed out 99% of the marker lights, turn signal and brake lighting on the coach. It is a process that can be done is stages, with a little planing. The key is installing blocking diodes in the lamp circuits or right at each fixture. The back current from incandescent lamps can cause problems between the turn signal circuits front to rear and the break light circuit. You do not need to install restrictive loads when the diodes are installed and they would defeat the wish to lower the current load.

Do you have any electronics background in power supplies and steering diode circuits?

Rich.

[rsbilledwards]

 

DickandLois, Can you elaborate a bit more on this. I would like to install LEDs in the turn, brake and running and I have a friend that tried and thru his hands in the air when nothing worked. Info like the type (blocking), size and where to acquire them would be helpful. I remember this from A school in the military. Every Boy Does Fine... as the color code for them but the rest is goggly gook...

Thanks,

 

Bill Edwards

 

[kaypsmith]

I have replaced many incandescent lights on the coach, and had no problems, I did not add any blocking diodes, so far no problems. There are many different ways to get the desired effect that will should work out for you. I personally like to order my lights for exterior as a complete unit, that way I have new inwards as well as new lens covers, but there are just an LED bulb replacement that will fit right into your 1156 and 3157 sockets, these replacements are designed with the led's positioned in a pattern that will reflect just fine off of your current reflectors. Since led's use 4.2 volts, you will find that they are designed with three led's in series with multiples paralleled so that no other resistive appliance is necessary to plug directly into a 12 volt circuit. Also, these guys are diode's and they must be plugged in correctly, ie. positive and negative properly polarized or they will not work, and one other little piece of advice is to not try to cut corners with the negative, a same length wire as the positive for negative is an absolute must for them to work correctly. You can use an electronic flasher to prevent hyperflashing, no additional wiring necessary, just replace the current flasher, its a timed circuit rather than resistive,

Bill, Every good boy does fine=  G cleff, good boys do fine always = F "LOL

[dickandlois]

Hi Bill, One never knows the skill level of all the posters, so I go very basic first time around. Like your friend - one can get very frustrated and confused.

Key did a good job covering what is on the market and yes there a a number of different base designs to cover all the current sockets. 

Replacing the housings with plugs that match sockets is a good way to go - I always have loved a challenge and they kind of keep my electronic circuit skills tuned up. Regarding the diodes for each location. They can be small because the current draw and there is no real counter EMF to worry about. I tend to use diodes that can work with 25 volts and a peak reverse voltage of 50 volts. Kay just a habit - LOL. Kind of gives one some headroom for the flasher and turn signal circuits so I just keep everything the same. NOW if the circuit gets into controlling relays - it turns into a different ball game. Counter EMF currents come into play. One needs to use some math to keep the circuits working trouble free(Well kind of) When things do not work it generally is because the LED lamps flash bright and incandescent lamps are dim it can reverse is some setups. 

As key mentioned install an electronic flasher You most likely need to reverse the negative and positive - so its not just a plug and play deal all the time ! an also remember to size it - they do make some cheep ones and they can fail, just like the thermal reaction type.

Remember that the cathode needs to go to the item needing power-positive side. putting them in backwards closes the gate - so to speak. No power missing current flow.

With the Shack missing - Google Electronics parts suppliers(Local) might keep it close to your front door.

The DW thinks I have way to much junk, but those bins full of tinny items comes in SO handy. 

In many of the older chassis wiring harnesses there a 2- 50 volt diodes in parallel located in the turn signal portion, an they do fail and finding them - unless you have the factory harness diagrams and lengths is like looking for the needle in the haystack !  The incandescent bulbs and flasher can generate those dreaded EMF's add in the toad signals and things can get interesting.

The restrictive color code ditty is one you never forget. LOL We did learn one for the Capacitors, but I do not remember it. So it most likely was not as colorful ! 

Rich .    

[jleamont]

I replaced my exterior turn and stop lamps with LED. Every year at the Hershey show I would ask the owner of Cabin Bright when they were going to be available. They finally have them now bright enough with the LED's pointing in the proper directions to utilize the lens reflectors you have in your existing lights. He explained to me he wasn't going to put a product out unless it out performed the incandescent light. I also didn't need to change my flasher, not sure why. I did find I have a few weak grounds within a few sockets, simple enough to replace. I bought them and I am impressed and happy with the end result. All of my exterior with the exception of side, rear dock lights and my headlights are LED and are very bright. 

[jleamont]

12 hours ago, rsbilledwards said:

 

DickandLois, Can you elaborate a bit more on this. I would like to install LEDs in the turn, brake and running and I have a friend that tried and thru his hands in the air when nothing worked. Info like the type (blocking), size and where to acquire them would be helpful. I remember this from A school in the military. Every Boy Does Fine... as the color code for them but the rest is goggly gook...

Thanks,

 

Bill Edwards

 

http://www.cabinbright.com/

I do not work for this company, many have asked me this in the past. The owner is a retired electronic engineer and a fellow RV'r (that goes a long way with me) and a nice guy to sit and chat with at RV shows. He gave me great pricing since I was flipping my entire coach in and out to LED (I had a mess of fluorescent light problems inside, most didn't work for one reason or another so it was time to act). I installed a few of his product's in our last coach and they held up great. His interior lamps are dimmable which was great for my spot lamp pods inside, most are not.

Interior light photos of my project are here in the gallery

 

[tcolburn]

Joe, I am here at the FMCA MAC Rally in Amana, and ended up being parked right next to Joe from Cabin Bright. I've been intending to convert my brake and turn signal indicators to LEDs for a while now, so it's just serendipity that I read your post this morning! Went right over to the vendor area, met Joe, and purchased the lamps. They're a direct plugin replacement, and they work perfectly on our coach with no modifications. Thanks!

--Tim C.

[jleamont]

Tim, glad to hear, small world! Joe is a great guy, very knowledgeable. 

I love mine also, my turn signals are like little yellow headlights now.

[manholt]

Joe.  Looked at all the pictures...does DW strip the coach every time your home?  You really ought to buy her some extra bedding..

[lwpavao]

Thanks for all of your feedback folks, good stuff.  I've tried a few different for 3157 function now - issue is that they are not near the photometric requirements which can make them unsafe.  Not in intensity but distribution.  I'll try a few more.  The B/U function is safe.  I've found some mfg'd my Sylania  / Osram which appear the best at this point.  FYI - there are some "spider": lamps out there which can collapse and then expand once installed, these may give a bit more spread to the reflector than the X-mas tree style bulbs.  Anyway thanks for everyone's input, I'll take it all for experience once I decide on the final source.  Take a look at Superbrightleds.com - looks like a good source as well.

[jleamont]

20 hours ago, Manholt said:

Joe.  Looked at all the pictures...does DW strip the coach every time your home?  You really ought to buy her some extra bedding..

Yea, she's an organization fanatic and we both love cleanliness. That was taken while parked for the season. 

[jleamont]

Iwpavo, I tried the sylvania also, since they wouldn't produce as much as the incandescent bulbs I returned them. I didn't want to risk another motorist hitting me from dim lights. Happy now with the ones I bought. With stuff like this I have found if you spen a little more up front one time you will never touch it again. I bought some cheap LEDs and they didn't last. 

[lwpavao]

Good to know, I'll use the Sylvania for my B/U lamps, they are good enough for that function but I agree with you - more upfront cost can increase safety and awareness of the lighting system.  Thanks again.

[2brew]

Just FYI - if you can determine the OEM taillight housing information, as I did, you may be able to swap the entire assembly. Often the taillight assembly is a common OEM component utilized in automobiles etc. 

Here is a link to some before and after photos from my coach. 

 

I used the TYC number (11-5064/3) shown in the photos to determine that my taillight assembly is also utilized in a 1985-2005 Chevrolet Astro/GMC Safari Van. I then searched for a LED direct replacement housing, there are many manufacturers of these devices. And based on some recommendations from others I decided on these, in smoke. They were direct plug & play, I used these bulbs for the reverse lighting. 

I'm very happy with the improvement in appearance and light brightness. 

YMMV

[jleamont]

2brew, I did that with my headlights and front parking lights. My tail lights are 1992/1996 ford econoline and headlights are 1997-2006 Ford Econoline

if you zoom in these are dark perimeter with clear lenses rather than the original. Theses also have Led halos on the bottom of the headlight

[2brew]

Jleamont, I've had no luck finding an OEM number on my headlight assemblies. Perhaps I need to remove them...

 

 

[jleamont]

What year make and model is your coach? I posted more photos in the gallery, you can really see the lights now.

[wildebill308]

3 hours ago, 2brew said:

Jleamont, I've had no luck finding an OEM number on my headlight assemblies. Perhaps I need to remove them...

 

 

Get the numbers cast into the lense and do a google search. My headlights came from a BMW M3. 

Bill