nitehawk Report post Posted January 22, 2017 Has anyone even considered adding a 12V fan to quickly blow the engine heat out of the compartment when finally stopping? If heat in the bedroom is an issue, isn't there sufficient insulation between the engine compartment and the bedroom? Wouldn't the fan be simpler, safer, and cheaper than wrapping pipes that were not wrapped by the OEM for a reason or reasons? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 22, 2017 Nitehawk, I have considered placing one near the vents on the rear of the coach where the air exits the engine bay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 22, 2017 As far as OEM is concerned, it has to do with cost of unit...adding more bling is cheaper and bling sells. Joe, how are you doing on your upper radiator hose? Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 25, 2017 Update: called the tube manufacture. They wouldn't give me the time of day. Tube Specialties http://www.tubespecialties.com/ I asked to speak to their tech support department as I wanted to know the thickness of the tube and ID/OD. Refused again to help and told me to call Monaco, I already went down that road and got no where, Monaco/REV told me to call the tube manufacture and they only had the part number of it and that it was discontinued. So I threw in the towel and ordered the pipe to build it myself based off of the measurement of the Cummins water outlet and radiator inlet both measure 2.25" so the pipe between will also be the same size OD and 16 gauge T304 Stainless. $111.00 in parts and three days from now I will have them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 25, 2017 I just hate "Stupid" reps for Company's, that apparently likes to loss money! They are so dumb, they think you can't get the part from someone else! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted January 25, 2017 Joe, How much of a bend will you need to make on the tubing? I can't remember but I think you should be able to make a long radius bend in the 16 gauge 304 S/S, not sure on too short of a bend. Are you planning on using a local muffler shop to bend it for you? Good luck and let us know how it comes out. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 25, 2017 Herman, he has his own tools and bender, just not a manly one. Seriously, he does all that stuff himself..on his OP he has 2 pictures of the old one. You know he will keep us informed....he can't help it. Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 25, 2017 Herman, I bought them pre bent and I just have to cut them down and Weld them together so it matches the original with the bends pointing in the right direction. Here is the link to the pipe; http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1528_1065_1239&products_id=1416 I have a Tig and Mig welder in the garage, so time to break out the Tig Welder with some stainless rod and go to town. Worse case scenario I have a friend that builds custom boats, I will go over to his shop if need be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 25, 2017 Carl is right, I will post photos of it when I am done, he knows me well enough . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 26, 2017 While on the topic, I am considering replacing the rubber hose sections with this product. http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/1268596pdf?$PDF$ Anyone have any experience with this or something similar? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted January 26, 2017 While silicone hoses do have advantages, they are more difficult to seal than other high-end hoses. Gates green stripe is what I use: http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/fleet-and-heavy-duty/hd-cooling-system/hd-coolant-hose/green-stripe-4-ply-coolant-hose Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 26, 2017 Brett, do you know if its available with a 90 degree bend? Trying to navigate their website and not having much luck. Not much of a fan of Silicone hoses either. My lower hose at the engine has a 90 degree bend and that is what made me go silicone on the lower only at one spot. The upper hose I am running with this product at both connections since they are straight. https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBG666/NBG666_0226457337 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nitehawk Report post Posted January 26, 2017 Believe it or not, there once was an informational instruction on where to place a hose clamp. Ideal place to put the clamp was just past the raised rib on the part that goes into the hose. Too far and liquid could get past the raised rib and then stagnate and possibly cause rotting issues, either hose or fitting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 26, 2017 If you look closely under the alternator you can see the lower hose connecting to the pipe that runs along the rear of the frame, it 90's into the engine connection. At the radiator its just a straight 5" section, no problem there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 26, 2017 Brett, thanks for the link, that's the hose I need for my Jeep! Joe. I'm not a big fan of silicon either! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted January 26, 2017 Carl me neither but for longevity they do hold up as long as you can get them to seal. They do look pretty . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted January 26, 2017 I just care about longevity and functuality...Pretty is for exterior! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted February 1, 2017 Photos... I pressure tested it to 25 psi, let it sit over night under pressure and soaked it down with soapy water tonight. I had to correct a few pin holes within the welds so they got rough looking, I always hate welding over weld. In case you are wondering why the union in the center, they are angle cut to allow for clearance in the chassis. That was tough due to warpage. But it's done!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted February 1, 2017 O come on, crank up that preshure. Looking good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted February 1, 2017 Ha, I was worried those plumbing pipe Caps would burst. It would have happened in the middle of the night, DW would have woke up swinging . Now that I think about it, that would have been funny. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 1, 2017 Joe. I agree, weld over weld, is generally not a good thing, but since I have not and will not do stainless, have no idea if it will weaken it or not. Your DW wake up swinging ? Ha, Joes been at it again.. Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted February 1, 2017 I went back and looked at the welds. Well it doesn't matter if they are pretty on the outside. What matters is if you got good penetration. Ok so I use to be certified to inspect welds back in the day. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted February 1, 2017 I had to Mig it, the Tig was fighting me and I gave up on my test pipe. The stainless wire and pipe doesn't flow and bead like regular alloy and all joints are butted together not lap in one another. I will have to photo the factory lower pipe, those welds look like Bird droppings and those joints are lapped . Must have been a Monday job after a holiday . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 1, 2017 WBill, you too? We all have had another life! Ask Joe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
