garykd

Hi kevinpvb, You'll need meter to diagnose the problem. With the coach door open, start by determining if there is 12 VDC to the step motor. If so, the ground or motor is bad. There could also be a tremendous bind in the steps. However, I have not found this to be the case in many years. If there is no 12 VDC to the motor, work your way back until you find 12 VDC. Once you have found the power, you will have found the problem.

Hi airstreamlife, Welcome to the FMCA forum. Have the shop check the chassis for loose and worn parts. Have a front end alignment done. Make the coach like it will be when you are traveling. Then weigh the coach (individual wheels) and adjust the tire pressure for the weight being carried. There are different after market devices that can be added if the steering remains unsatisfactory. Post again for suggestions.

Hi Tim, The move from 13.5K to 15K units can be a simple or difficult move. You'll need to get the professionals to tell you which one it will be. Depending on the original installation, the mechanical connections to the existing duct work is not necessarily a remove and replace situation. I've never heard where it was impossible, just letting you know it might cost more than originally thought.

Hi Jon, There is freezing weather in the area your coach will be in. The answer to your question depends on the construction of your coach. Are the holding tanks exposed to the outside or are they enclosed in the basement? Does your furnace have a blower motor that blows air into the location of the fresh water and holding tanks? From memory, it will take a temp of below 29 degrees F for over 5 hours before the coach water lines and tanks would be affected. Again, it all depends on how the coach was constructed. This means the amount of time where this could happen is confined to January/February time frame. Without any external power available, the situation becomes difficult. If it was me, I'd ensure: 1. the holding and fresh water tanks are empty 2. pour about a quart of RV antifreeze in the black and grey tanks 3. drain the water lines with whatever drain points the manufacturer provides 4. add a 1/2 pint of RV antifreeze to each drain "P" trap 5. drain the hot water heater Unless there is unusually cold weather, this should be sufficient.

Hi Bob, Because the tank drains fast at first then slows to a trickle, it sounds like there is something in the tank that floats or is light enough to move around when the coach is driven and the tank is being filled. The item is then drawn to the tank drain location. Gut feel says the item is remaining in the tank and not flowing into the train pipe. If this ends up being the case, consider taking the coach to a RV shop. Depending on the location of the tank drain the drain pipe may need to be removed. I know of no chemicals that will dissolve something that is stuck in the grey tank without creating other problems with the valve and seals.

Hi jfanning, The state you need to be concerned about is North Carolina. For Florida, all you need is the bill of sale, current title (with release of any lien holders) and your NC drivers license. Tell Florida your are taking the coach to NC. You'll need to purchase a FLA temporary tag. This is to get you to NC. This is from the NC DMV site: "North Carolina collects a 3% Highway Use Tax on vehicles in lieu of a state sales tax (General Statute 105-187.2). The tax is assessed each time a title is transferred. The maximum tax for commercial vehicles (vehicles with a weight greater than 26,000 pounds) is $1,000.00. All other vehicles are charged 3% with no ceiling. For a more detailed explanation of the Highway Use Tax (HUT) you can view our Vehicle Titling & Registration: Highway Use Tax Section." Please consider going to the North Carolina web site or calling the DMV with questions about your transaction.

Hi riverbendfun, The previous posts provide the major items one should consider. My only addition is with the price. 1. Keep the new coach price separate from the trade value. 2. The price you'll pay is somewhat dependent on if Newmar is helping the dealer behind the scenes. You'll never know this, but it would not hurt to suggest the dealer contact Newmar so they can better understand any help or exposure the dealer may have. 3. To get the absolute best price the dealer needs a commitment from you. Consider making an offer, signing a sales contract (for the price you are willing to pay) and providing an appropriate deposit. For me, this is the only way I know to get a dealer's attention. The ball is in their court to accept the offer or reject it. 4. The sales contract should include all promises and agreements made by the dealer and understood by you. New tires, batteries, chassis servicing, etc. 5. The price you are willing to pay could easily be in the 40% off MSRP. Your figure of $200K is in no way unreasonable. I would start at $190K. After all, when you drive the coach off the lot, that is all it will be worth. Market value is market value, simple as that. 6. Make sure the floor plan is what you want. The floor plan will be remembered long after the low price has been paid. If you make the purchase, consider the one of the first maintenance items to be to seal the roof. A good way to do this would be with EternaBond.

Hi gwjohnson, I have a cheater box and have used it, with permission, and never had a problem. Read "with permission" as an added CG fee for the electric. This was okay with me as I wanted the convenience. My use was as you posted. Two different 30 AMP CG posts providing the input to my 50 AMP power cord. One must remember this is a total of 60 AMPS (30 AMPS per hot lead). For me it is better than 30 AMPS. If one understands how the cheater box works and what the true input AMPS are, one can benefit from this device. There are several different scenarios, of input AMPS available for these boxes. Some examples might be: 1. 20 AMPS per side 2. 30 AMPS per side 3. 30 AMPS on one side and 20 AMPS on the other side. 4. etc. There are adapters a plenty to allow connection to a variety of input power outlets.

Hi gfarcher, Welcome to the FMCA forum. This is another vote for Michelin. We have the same size tires. Mine are XZE2+ load range J.

Hi belair375, When in this area we stay at the Newburgh/New York City North KOA (845-564-2836). Go to http://www.koa.com/where/ny/32102/ and read about the CG. The reason this CG is our choice is: 1. Easy access to I87 and I84. 2. NYC tours and pickup available at the CG 3. New Paltz is a short drive. This town has the history of how the area was settled over several hundred years. All the houses (built over several hundred years) are there. If you go, take the guided tour. 4. FDR NHS at Hyde Park is a short drive. Go to http://www.nps.gov/hofr/index.htm to read about it. Once again, the guided tour is a good thing to do. 5. Near the FDR NHS is the culinary institute. This is a perfect place to have a meal you will remember. Go to http://www.ciachef.edu/restaurants/default.asp and read about it.

No boycott support from me. I support the J. I will patronize them at every opportunity. They save me time and $s in too many ways to list. For me, those who complain about the J charging for dumping are,,,,whining. I have yet to hear a business reason the J should not charge for their services. Maybe because there is no business reason to give things away. Maybe because those who dump take so long and could care less about the people waiting behind them that the J is loosing fuel business. I'd appreciate it if those of you who think buying fuel elsewhere is your best deal, please immediately do this. Stop using the J. Gut feel says the line at the RV pump will be short and the J can sell more fuel. The rest of us will greatly appreciate your absence. Unfortunately, after a few trips of fueling elsewhere you'll, most likely, return to the J. Then the rest of us will be stuck with your whining again.

Hi Don, What you are considering is a service contract, not an extended warranty. Read the T&Cs carefully. Remember, part A is covered and part B is not covered. Part B fails causing part A to fail. Claim denied. In addition, you must have all the recommended maintenance records for the failed component. The fridge goes bad. However, you did not have the annual maintenance done. Claim denied, no matter what the problem is. You know your coach. If the coach has been relatively free from problems and there is nothing looming that needs to be repaired, consider Bill's advice.

Hi PawsOnTheGo, Brett's question is a valid one. In addition, can you share a little bit more about the things you like to do, outside the RV community. I am in the same situation. We are looking for a place to spend the summers that is much cooler than South Florida. Some things I'd like to know about you are: 1. Many different activities in the area (outside the RV community) or a more rural setting? 2. Absolutely need a WalMart nearby or can do with small local shops. 3. Fan of fishing and water activities, mountain activities, NASCAR or relaxing in the RV community? Let us know. I may be able to provide some direction.

Hi whipper, 2 to 3 weeks for this trip, you are very brave. Consider doing the Grand Canyon area or the Yellowstone area, but not both. For the time you have, it is too many miles. There are CGs all over the place. I will make only a few CG recommendations since there are so many to choose from and you will only be sleeping at the CG. Either choice, think of this trip as a "Whitman's Sampler". One could spend months in these states do one site per day and never do the same thing. The sites I recommend may not be the biggest, but they will leave an impression on you. If you do the south west and the Grand Canyon, consider these sites to see. 1. Carlsbad Cavern NP in New Mexico 2. White Sands NM in New Mexico 3. Tombstone, AZ Camp along I10 and take the towed car to Tombstone. See the silver mine, stage coach ride (you'll appreciate your coach more after the ride), have lunch in a saloon and see the OK Coral gunfight show (Earp's and the Clanton's) 4. Saguaro NP Go to the section that is West of Tuscon. Travel North, route 79 out of Tuscon to route 60 to route 77 to I40. and see: 5. Petrified Forest and Painted Desert 6. Go west on I40 to Meteor Crater. There is a CG at the exit for the Crater. 7. Grand Canyon - Stay close to the Canyon, not in Williams. There are CGs along route 64. 8. Leave the Canyon and head East on Route 64 to route 89 north to route 160 to route 163 to Monument Valley 9. If you can, stay in Utah in the town of Mexican Hat. The CG is Valle's RV Park. Contact number is 435-683-2226 The only other CG choice is Gouldings. From a price viewpoint it is a rip off. 10. I think think Monument Valley on the Utah side is much better than the Arizona side. 11. Staying at Valle's, see Goosneck State Park and the Valley of the Gods. For VOG, check for rain. If there has been rain do not go. If it is dry any sedan type car can make the trip. Take your lunch and plenty of water. For Goosneck State Park, just drive to the end of the road and admire the view. It is truly unbelievable. You will not be disappointed. 12. Return south to Route 160 in AZ and head east/north. The objective is the 4 corners. 13. From the four corners, continue on Route 160 to Mesa Verde NP in Colorado. This can easily be a several day stop. There are several CGs in and around Cortez. After Mesa Verde it is time to strap on the seat belt and boogie back to Georgia. If you do the Yellowstone route, consider: 1. Drive, drive and drive until you get to Rocky Mountain NP (RMNP) This is a 3 day side trip. You'll spend one day at RMNP. Leave the coach at the CG. Enter RMNP on the east side and take the Old Fall River road trip all the way to the Alpine Visitor's center. Have lunch at the Alpine Visitor's center. Return via the Trail Ridge Road. This is an all day trip. Take your time. Enjoy the short hiking opportunities and pull outs. Really take your time. Much of this day you'll be 10-12K feet in elevation. The lack of oxygen may make you stop and take a break more than you are used to. The pullouts on Old Fall River Road are great for forest scenery and wild life. Travel the road slowly, there is a lot of big wild life that can do a lot of damage to the car, if you hit them. After lunch, the return trip on Trail Ridge Road will offer many pull outs and several places to take short hikes to see some fabulous scenery. At the Alpine Visitors center is a very nice short (one mile?) hike. Some trails are paved. After leaving I25, the first day is to get to the CG, day 2 to go to RMNP and day 3 to get back to I25. It's really not going to take a full day to get from and back to I25, just allow extra time. The drive to RMNP will require your full attention. 2. Take I25 north to I 90 West to the Yellowstone NP area. 3. See Yellowstone NP 4. Return to I90 and travel east to around exit 509 (in Montana) and see Little Bighorn Battlefield NM. If you go take the ranger lead tour. 5. Continue east on I90 into Wyoming and around exit 158 is the exit for Devil's Tower NM. Do not take the coach to the monument. Get a CG nearby and take the towed car. 6. Continue on I90 east to the Rapid City area. The objective is to make a loop and see: 6a. Mount Rushmore 6b. Crazy Horse Memorial 6c. Mammoth Site (in Hot Springs). This dig is all inside and really something to see. 6d. Return to I90 east. 7. Around exit 110 is Wall Drug. Everybody who passes by needs to stop at Wall Drug. Find a local CG as this and the following two sites are an easy drive. 8. See the Badlands NP. If you leave the viewing areas take plenty of water and wear a large brimmed hat. Here, the most sure footed hiker should go up last and down first. The trails look sturdy, but the dirt crumbles real easy. If anyone slips and starts to slide, it is the responsibility of this person to dig in and stop the slide. I saved my Gdaughter by following this rule. 9. At exit 131 is the Minute Man Missile NHS. Go to http://www.nps.gov/mimi/index.htm and read about it. If you want to take the tour (highly recommended) make reservations well in advance. 10. Now it is time to boogie back to Georgia.

Hi Michael, I'm a little late for you (I need to get out more to read the forums I usually pass over). However, to those reading this thread consider: 1. From the very beginning , have a control book. This will become your "Bible". 2. Tabs in the control book need to cover every aspect of the rally. Some examples are: 2a. Attendee Communications 2b. All Spreadsheets you create to stay organized. The spreadsheets might include: 2aa. revenue and expenses 2ab. registrations name, coach length, arrival date, departure date, baseline days, baseline fee, extra person fee, total fee paid, optional tour/activity fee paid, diabetic needs, handicap needs will help host, etc. 2b. rally flyer 2c. actual hard copy registration and copy of check 2d. all rally suppliers: 2da. caters 2db vendors 2dc. dealers 2dd. tours 2de. free bees 2df. goodie bag items 2e. Any charity that will receive donations (like a Christmas rally) 2f. accounting 2fa. copy of deposit slips 2fb. copy of checks written 2fc. how expenses were calculated 2g. cancellations with details on refunds 2h. campground All the tabs should include who, what, when, where and why. And the status, next contact date, etc.

Hi whipper, Welcome to the FMCA forum. How much time are you taking for the trip?

Hi Rosco, Go to http://www.shoprvparts.com/product.do?no=12691F and read about this product. Thetford makes the product I use. Go to http://www.thetford.com/Home/Products/Chem...29/Default.aspx and read about it. There may be other products available.

Hi f335149, Welcome to the FMCA forum. thanks for the post.

Hi joemar1112, In addition to Brett's post, please connect the coach to shore power and run the A/C. Also, with the coach not connected to shore power, run the generator without running the A/C. Please let us know if the symptoms remain the same and what the result was from these two requests.

Hi arosen2176, As you crest a hill/mountain turn on your engine/Jake brake. Let the brake do most of the work slowing the decent. When using the service brake, on a decent, stab the service brake (like the Hitchcock film) firmly. This will keep you at a speed you are comfortable with an minimize use of the service brake. Other than that, enjoy the scenery.

Hi Gene, While the email was just received by the J loyalty card holders, this is old news. The J has been implementing this over the last several months. We do not see the same on this issue. I support the J making their services fee based. Times change. If one uses a service one should expect to pay a fee. For those who see no value in paying the fee, they are free to go elsewhere. If there is value in the fee charged for the service, one should understand it and pay the fee.

Hi Don, Make sure you read the contract. Know what you care cover for and what the exclusions are. The exclusions are the insurance company's way of getting out of paying you for a repair. An example is Part "A" is covered. Part "B" (not covered) failed causing part "A" to fail. Claim denied.

Hi Dave, The FMCA towing guide for 2007 does not list the Mazda3 as towable four down However, Remco, http://www.remcotowing.com/vehicles says the same thing you posted. I guess one can put their money down and take their chances. Consider contacting Remco and see what they tell you over the phone.

Hi luv2trav, There are schools for driving a motor coach. I am not able to find any near where you are located.

Hi Gary and Sandy, Welcome to the FMCA forum. Other than going down a hill in the same gear you went up the hill there is nothing to be concerned about. I've take the route mentioned in your OP many times. Compared to other mountains we encounter in our travels, the route you will be traveling should present no problems. The longest pull you'll have is I77 as you cross into VA. Fancy Gap mountain is 7 miles @ 7%. However, it is not bad because the road is a good quality. Just get in line with the trucks and enjoy.