five
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Content Count
1997 -
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Last visited
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Days Won
11
Posts posted by five
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Got my current and a Allegro Bus from Lazydays, Tampa. Sales is good, service is not! I have noticed that their MSRP is higher than
Factory MSRP.
I will shop around before my next coach & talk to factory about price first...then order from a dealer that has good service! FMCA
Convention is a great place to start.....
Yes, Lazy Days pricing is high...if you go there be sure to negotiate and do not accept their first offer.
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JMHO, of course, but the manufacturers make these engines to perform in a certain manner in certain vehicles. I did not change anything on my last engine (Cummins ISL 400) nor will I change anything on my currrent engine (DD 500). They both do the job fine, plus I have heard too many horror stories from those who have tried to make them more powerful or get better mileage.
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Sure, run with the heat on. If really cold, buy a couple of Lasko tower heaters and turn on the generator. I would not attempt I 40 through ABQ, Gallup and Flagstaff at this time of year. You may be fine, then again you may be snowed/iced in. Gallup is 6,500', no telling what you'll run into there.
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The hitch rating is only part of the towing equation. The coach and chassis makers will also have a tow rating (some times not the same). Finally, the proper way to compute the tow rating is to take the coach's GCWR and subtract the coach's ready to travel actual weight from it. If you are operating the coach GVWR, take that number and subtract it from the GCWR.The lowest of these four figures is the actual tow capacity.
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Good info, thanks.
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Most higher end models of all brands will have a 15k tow rating...Amer Coach, Monaco, Newmar, Winnebago, etc. Normally, to go higher than that, you'll need Prevost, Newell, etc.
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It seams the OP who has a total of 2 post continued to travel and use the coach with out getting the items fixed. Then is complaining about the "extender warranty" not being that good...
Bill
BTW, where is the OP? He dropped a bomb and left.
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The problem with "good factory service" is that if the coach was built correctly, no trip to the factory would be necessary. Minor repairs can be handled at the dealers, major problems go back to the factory.
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...If there is any chance that leaves, pine needles or sticks or twigs have dropped onto the motor home at a campsite I'll get on the roof...
Same here...I'll sweep off the topper if they have anything on them, to include water.
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Couple of comments:
- Brett was talking about a biocide, not a fuel stabilizer. If your fuel is going to sit for a long time you need the biocide. Boaters use it all the time, it kills algae that grows in your diesel tank if it is not totally filled. Here's a good one:- If you are going to use WM for diesel, get a WM gift card, it will lower the price even more.- Also, when in WM or any other tight spot...watch your tail swing...it's wider than you think. -
It seems to me that 10 hours is a bit long and $8 to 900 a little steep.
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As noted, the learning curve will be pretty steep for any RV owner, especially when new to RVing. When we got this coach, RV #6, I thought it would be an easy transition. Wrong...still on that learning curve.
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On my AGS, I can turn it off, so it can't start...unless, of course, there's wiring issue or some other problem.
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I run mine all the time with the engine off, however the ignition key must be on.
We have a different coach since I made the first post. Same make, but the Eagle's slides will not move without the engine running...tried it last trip out.
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This is one of those posts where a person makes a very derogatory post...then disappears. Therefore, IMHO, he has no credibility.
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I had a similar issue with a 5th wheel with 50 amp power. We were inside the RV and a TV started to smoke. I immediately went outside and turned off the power at the post and unplugged my cord. Long story short, one of the lines to the pin at the end of the plug had come loose and come in contact with another. It's been a couple of years so I don't recall which line did what. But inside the RV one circuit was doubling the volts to about 180, while the other line was putting out half the normal amount...around 60. I reattached the wires to the correct pins, and all was well.
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Coachnet, FMCA, Good Sam...it's a Chevy, Dodge, Ford question.
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Call whom ever is now making the ITASCA Meridian. I lost one with a blowout, and that's how I found a replacement.
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Just a reminder put your air selector on your towed to recirculate it will reduce the smell in side the toad.
Bill
Yep, or turn the system off.
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Another option is to find a place that will change it at a reasonable price. I found a local mom and pop diesel shop. Their hourly rate is $65. I supply the oil (from Sams) and filter, they replace and disposed of both, and do a complete lube job for $65. To me, the lube job alone is worth $65.
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...Five, I agree with you. My point is that I have not had a bad experience with them. It seems that when bad expriences are had then reports are made publicly. When good experiences are had it just seems that they go by the wayside and no one ever hears about it....
Quite true, and is true with many things on these forums. Recently, I was on another forum and there was a run of posts regarding problems with Allison transmissions. There were no posts from the many thousands of Allison owners who could have posted, "we just completed a xxxxx mile trip and our Allison preformed flawlessly." With so many of the same make/model of products, we are going to hear of problems, but not the nonproblems. We post because we have a problem, not because all is well.
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Several posters have listed MPG, weight of coach, speed, etc...but don't tell us the engine. Also, if Cummins, listing HP doesn't tell the full story. At times ISBs/ISCs have had the same HP and ISCs/ISLs have had the same HP.
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Since you are familiar with Eagles...check them out.
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I've never had a cover...but then I've never lived in Michigan. There are many other considerations than those mentioned...where will you store the cover when using the MH? How will you get the cover on top of the MH to put it on...they are big, bulky and heavy? The wind can cause two types of damage...a rubbed spot on the MH or a rubbed hole in the cover. IMHO, covered storage is better...much more expensive, but much better.
Good luck.
Starting A Cold Diesel Engine
in Engines
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From my DD engine manual: "The common belief that idling a diesel causes no engine damage is wrong. Idling produces sulfuric acid, which is absorbed by the lubricating oil and eats into bearings, rings, valve stems, and engine surfaces. If you must idle, the high idle function of the cruise control should be used."