planocat

"have decided to go with Michelin brand. I need the 275/80x22.5 load range H. The model I am going with is the XZA3+ which is a fuel efficient directional tire. The approximate cost complete will be just under $4000 purchasing under the FMCA Advantage program." ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ rorr1821: I'm out the door with the 6 Continentals at $2992. A $1000 savings that I can use other places. We have a couple of dealers in the area that are familiar with the Michelin FMCA program and while a nice savings (dealer can only guess at the final cost) it's probably not that far off from Costco's price of $563.99 each on the XZA3. Both FMCA and Costco would be a substantial savings over the $4845 price I received as a walk-up customer! The Continentals out-the-door for under $3,000 bell rings the loudest with me. I just noticed you were referencing XZA3+ and Costco quoted me XZA3........ so there is that confusion over Michelin's tire designation rearing its ugly head again. When Tireman9 listed all the Michelin tire designations I about fell out as who can keep track? D ick

I need 6 new tires for '04 Dutch Star 38' on a Spartan chassis. Michelin tire models and sizing has me totally confused. Current Michelin size is 275/80R 22.5. Dealers claim this Michelin size is interchangeable to 295/75R 22.5 from brands that don't offer the original size. They tell me there will be no ill effects on the drive line or instrumentation. Valid point from one of the Michelin dealers is the premium prices commanded by the Michelins give you the longest mileage and that is a moot point since I don't drive enough to wear out the tires...... they will be removed due to old age, not lack of tread. So, I think I have decided on the Continental HSR2 SA at a $1000+ savings. They come in the 275/80R22.5 size and are an H rated tire that has the same load ratings as the Michelin. My other considerations were Toyo, Sumitomo, and Kuhmo. The Continentals appear to have a very extensive dealer network for National travel and that played a part in my decision. And they come in the original Michelin size. I'm thinking of taking the tire savings and buying the Centramatic on-board balancing system. Does anyone have experience with that product? I have one close friend who has had them on his last 3 coaches and swears by them. I priced all tires with spin balancing as I don't want to mess with any beads in the tires. After spin balancing and adding the Centramatics, I should have a smooth tire ride as the H rated tires would allow me to run lower tire pressures while handling the load. I'm far from being a tire expert, so I welcome any comments on my flawed thinking before I pull the trigger. ****

IMHO it depends on what, if anything, you plan to tow. I have a 1997 35' tag axle coach on a Ford chassis with the 460 Banks and a E4OD transmission. I tow a >4,000 lb boat 3000 miles round trip each year and have lost 2 transmissions in the last 6 years. Heat is your biggest enemy and while your chassis has a factory cooler, it is not particularly large or effective. First rebuild was done at the Ford dealer and they only built back to factory specs.....no modifications or upgrades, With this last rebuild at an independent transmission shop, he recommended a larger Hayden cooler and transmission temp gauge be added. Shop switched to MerconV synthetic. They also added some internal upgrades and hopefully I'm through with the transmission woes of the past. If you don't tow, you may not need anything. But, tow or not, I wish I would have at least added that trans temp gauge years ago. Probably would have saved me a couple of very expensive rebuilds. I think you did the right thing in servicing it upon purchase to establish a baseline. ****

I had the transmission rebuilt in my Ford gas motorhome. Had shop install an oversized Hayden cooler to replace the original factory along with a transmission temperature gauge. Shop advised that on test drive the motorhome was running very hot. It had never done that in the past. Shop owner thought it might be a stuck thermostat as it wasn't running hot when I brought it in or when he made the original test drive for diagnosis. He changed out the thermostat and said he replaced it with a Fail Safe premium thermostat. Suggested I have the radiator flushed and coolant changed. It's about 3 years old so I will get that done. Here's my question......... Is the Fail Safe really an upgrade in thermostats or just some more snake oil? In reading quite a few reviews there seems to be a lot of negativity toward the product. I'm wondering if I should change back to an OEM thermostat when I have the coach flushed. When you google reviews on these thermostats you do get the negatives and no one ever compliments a thermostat that when working properly is an out of mind item. So it may be 15 negatives in a million applications......... or it may be that the product is fine and I should go worry about something else! Any insight to the Fail Safe product would be appreciated. **** Euting

Brett: As I stated, the carb issue was self-inflicted........... not enough of 1 and 3. LOL But, Ronnie G didn't mention the carb or eliminating that as a possibility, so I thought I would share my story. When my carb had to be replaced the second time it came as a real shock as I had run the generator from Plano, TX to Cloquet, MN (over 900 miles) pulling 2 air conditioners on a hot June day. When I shut it down for the night, it would not start in the morning. After running for such an extended period of time I was sure it wasn't a varnished carb. As mentioned, we replaced many things other than the carb. Never did get it to run more than a few minutes until we got back to Texas. It was one hot return trip from Canada. Parker Power Systems in Carrollton, TX (who I have been using for over 25 years) replaced the carb and it has run great ever since. And yes, with lesson learned I now use a little more of 1 & 3!! I still can't believe that was the problem........... but it was.

FWIW, I have been through the bad fuel line routine..... replaced it twice (I should have gone metal). But I have also suffered from a self-inflicted wound on 2 occasions ---------- a varnished carb. I've had to replace the carb twice. The second time came as a total shock..... but that was the problem correctly diagnosed when I got back home to my generator repair place. I took it to 2 RV dealerships on the road. Replaced fuel pump, circuit board, fuel filter, etc. Still wouldn't run for any length of time. I now carry a spare carb with me.

Prior to pulling the trigger on a pre-owned diesel pusher, I would like to have a total inspection of all systems done and get the coach back up and running. It has been sitting indoors since last Fall. I am looking for the RV version of having a boat surveyed prior to purchasing. I would like to fly up, get in a fully inspected/prepped coach and drive it home with some level of assurance that everything is up to par. Anyone have recommendations of an individual or service in northern Indiana/Chicago area? Thank You, Planocat

We just may be the last to experience this wonderful lifestyle as the economics of motorhoming may only be seen by future generations in "lifestyles of the rich and famous" ............and none of our kids fit that profile. We started this madness in 1977 and have decades of wonderful memories. We are not the least bit inclined to full time RVing. So for us, as it is for most, it is a very expensive alternative lifestyle that consumes lots of resources. Having 4 kids, I can only say I don't see owning a motorhome as part of any of their futures. Not that they wouldn't like this form of recreational experience. It just isn't affordable for most of their generation. What about your family? Any of them in their 30's or 40's pick up the torch for our RV lifestyle? I think FMCA membership numbers would indicate the sustaining numbers just aren't there. The FMCA demographic would be quite a shock to most. Enjoy it while you can!

Would you mind sharing the brand/model of your coach? Access to repairing/replacing a water tank that takes 40 hours labor doesn't bode well for the engineering design. That number, to me is staggering. My gas coach would take all of an hour to replace.... and that includes a 15 minute coffee break!

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Used the discount card for the first time today. I had to register it at a location as it would not accept the card number on line. Simple process. Swiped credit card, swiped savings card and selected gas grade. 2 cent discount appeared on the pump. Now for some good news regarding card limits. It may just be the location that I was at which was west of Monroe La, but the limits on the pump showed: Visa $150 Mastercard $100 American Express $100 I only had to go through the process twice to fill up my vehicle. At least it's not the old $75 limit! Planocat

I would like to share a "step story" that still brings a smile to my face. 3 years ago my step started acting up while we were in Canada. Sometimes it would deploy without a problem, other times it would delay deployment, other times it wouldn't deploy at all. By the time we were ready to leave, it wasn't working at all and we managed by making a very large step or doing the sit-down "hiney shuffle". Anyway, we get to the border crossing to come back into the US and catch this US Customs guy with a superiority complex who tells us to pull over and he wants to inspect the interior. No problem I say, but be forewarned that the step is not working. "I'll manage" was his reply and directs us to the inspection area. I unlocked the door and he opened it and begins trying to figure out how he is going to manage the giant step into the motorhome. As he gets ready to make the giant step, the steps deploy and smack him right in the shins......... hard. He says "I'll send someone else out" as he goes limping across the parking lot. I told my wife that while the electronic brain of the steps may need replacing, they are a **** of a lot smarter than I thought they were. That incident helped ease the pain of the $450 step repair. We still laugh about it. Planocat

All I know is that we have stopped at Pilot or FJ going to and from Canada for the last decade. When I reactivated my long dormant FMCA membership, they sent me the card and instructions on how to activate it. Went to their website and followed their instructions and guess what? The card number produces a message "invalid number" and tells me I can only register it in person at a physical location. Like I said, they have issues in their system that need correcting. I hardly think that's bashing. It's no big deal, they can keep their 2 cents.

It's a far cry from 26,001 lbs. But, IF the day comes that we move to a DP, I would like to be properly licensed. Not to mention that if I should ever be called upon to "pinch hit" for someone, I would like to be legal. I don't recall needing a class A or B license (if there was such a thing) back in the 80's when I had a Bluebird that did weigh that much. Thanks for the follow up. ****

Thanks for responses. Herman: Your offer is most generous. I think I will join the thousands of other law breakers and drive to the Sherman office if and when the need presents itself. I did find the basic Driver's Handbook on line which contains your referenced Chapter 15. The DMV office gave me the CDL version. I may take the written test just to get a feel for it........it's been a long time since I have taken one. Right now we have a 36' single slide gas motorhome that we have had for 14 years. We've decided to put off buying a used DP and take our summer trip in our current rig while watching gas/fuel prices to see if motorhoming remains in our future. We have owned motorhomes since 1977 and while we enjoy the lifestyle, affordability is becoming an issue. We'll see where it goes. Again, thanks to all for your input. It is much appreciated. ****

joelashley: You sure didn't deserve that kind of response. IMHO, johnfv2 and PFJ both have issues and I could live nicely without either one.

Herman: I have a couple of questions as I inquired about a class A license last week. The Plano office was jammed with 100+ people waiting for their number to be called. They basically threw the Commercial Motor Vehicle Driver Handbook at me and said "read this". 1. Why did you opt for the class B over the class A? 2. You make no mention of "air brakes" endorsement. Isn't that required with your rig? 3. Is there an office in Collin County that is less crowded than the one in Plano? It's always a zoo! What was your wait time in McKinney? 4. Since you referenced Chapter 15 and the brochure they gave me only goes through Section 14, you must have another book that I need. Can you tell me what your book with chapter 15 is called? Just got off the phone with the McKinney office. Had a very knowledgeable gal. She answered several questions and I learned that I can't get a class B license without taking the test in a class B type vehicle. She suggested renting one for a day! Right now I can't even legally test drive a unit I am looking to buy. Not too cool. Thanks for any info you can provide. Planocat

It was not at all uncommon to find them on 80's Wanderlodge Bluebirds. My Bluebird was a 1983 model.

Brett: Guess I used the wrong term........ should have referenced Jacobs "driveline retarder" which was also commonly referred to as a "Jake Brake" From one of the other diesel forums: "Magnetic driveline brakes are extremely effective, although somewhat expensive. In a nutshell, magnets surround the driveshaft, and when the juice is sent to the retarder, the magnets exert braking force on the driveshaft.There are at least three or four brands, one from France (Telma), one from Germany (KB?), one from Spain (KLAM) and one from Japan (Voith division of Sumitomo Metal Industries). Jacobs, the "Jake Brake" folks, made them until around 1999, but stopped making them and referred their old customers to the other brands. They are often used on International V8 diesel-powered school buses in the high mountains of Colorado and other states along the Continental Divide. One huge school district on the west side of Denver goes all the way to the Continental Divide to pick up school kids. The parents demand super-safe school buses, so the district spends several thousand bucks extra per bus to be certain the buses can stop when "comin' down the mountain". Sorry for the confusion.

It is my understanding that the term "Jake Brake" comes from the original Jacobs Drive Line Retarder system that I had on my old Bluebird front engine diesel. It was about a $6,000 option in the early 80's and encased the driveshaft with an electronic magnetic field that, when applied, retarded the driveshaft from turning. It saved my butt when after having the turbo rebuilt at the local Caterpillar dealer, the mechanic put the asbestos shield for the turbo on the wrong side. Going up Rabbit Ears Pass in Colorado the turbo got so hot it burned completely through the steel braided air line running from the compressor at the front of the engine to the air reservoir for the brakes. As we descended the pass, I noticed the air brakes weren't building back up. I used the Jake brake exclusively to come down off the mountain which allowed me to maintain the air level I had. When I got to the bottom, I told the wife and 4 kids that we weren't going anywhere until we found the problem and had it fixed. That was the most white-knuckled motorhome ride I have had since I started this motorhome madness in the mid-70's. As an aside, Bluebird wanted $350 plus shipping for the replacement line. The mechanic said it was the same type of lines used in farming equipment. He took the old one and had it built locally for $65, put the heatshield on properly, and I never had another minute's problem with that system. So, that's a story on the original Jake Brake....... sorry it took so long to tell.

"Can anyone tell me the difference between the XZE and XZE2 Michelins. Anyone??

"NOTE the different Load Range Michelin tires are also of different design so there are a number of possible reasons the 7160 Lbs is different for the other tires. This shows why it is important to check the Load/Inflation tables published by the manufacturer of your specific tires." I'm with you BillO, it's still confusing to me as the Michelin tire chart I'm looking at is for the same model tire with different ratings. Guess we'll have to accept the premise that the same tire isn't really the same from load range G to H. Thanks Tireman9 for pointing us to the right places for info.

Pricing 6 new tires and my traditional brand (Michelin) is out of my price range. Anyone with experience on the Continental HSR2 SA tires? Size is 275 80 R 22.5 Out the door prices: Michelin $4845 G load range Toyo $3450 G load range Continental $2992 The Continentals above are H load range, all position with a load rating of 7160 single and 6610 dual at 120 psi. I did read somewhere that some manufacturers are starting to use Continentals. All responses appreciated.